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THE LIBRARY

THE UNIVERSITY

OF CALIFORNIA

LOS ANGELES

THE
REDISCOVERED
COUNTRY

OTHER BOOKS

BY THE SAME AUTHOR

The Adventures of Bobby Orde

African Camp Fires

Arizona Nights

The Blazed Trail

Blazed Trail Stories

The Cabin

Camp and Trail

The Claim Jumpers

Conjuror's House

The Forest

Gold

The Land of Footprints

The Magic Forest

The Mountains

The Mystery (With Samuel H. Adams)

The Pass

The RivER-AfAN

The Rules cf the Game

The Silent Places

The Westerners

ex \r<5*^^

THE BIGGEST OF THE FOUR LIONS
SEE PAGE l8.^

THE

REDISCOVERED

COUNTRY

STEWART EDWARD WHITE, f. r. g. s.

ILLUSTRATED

FROM
PHOTOGRAPHS

GARDEN CITY NEW YORK

DOUBLEDAY, PAGE & COMPANY
1915

DOUBLEDAY, PaGE & CoMPANY

translation into foreign languages,

including the Scandinavian

ILLUSTRATIONS

ihe biggest of the four lions Frontispiece

FACING PAGE

In the coast belt 4

M'Ganga — My head man on two trips 5

Kongoni, Memba Sasa, Sanguika 12

Dolo, Sulimani, The Toto — our donkey force ... 12

Donkey fully packed 13

Typical camp — tents in a circle, goods and donkeys in the

centre 20

Porter's camp 21

Crossing the Southern Gwaso Nyero 28

Crossing the Southern Gwaso Nyero — or X'Gouramani —

River 28

SUnging loads, by means of a snatch block, across the

Southern Gwaso Nyero River 29

The Southern Gwaso Nyero River 29

Masai girl and married woman 36

Masai married woman 37

Curtain vines in the canon near Mt. Bellfield ... 54

The Wasonzi Village near 01-Sambu 54

Wasonzi hut with fortified doorway 55

Guides from the Wasonzi 55

Crossing the swamps above Lake Natron 64

Soda incrustations at the head of Lake Natron . . 65

Head shaving by the porters 65

The Pleasant Camp — at which we did not stop . . 72

How we sent out our first letters — in the spUt stick . . 73

The sultan of the Wasonzi — "The oldest man I ever saw" 76

Fortified gate below the Wasonzi Village .... 76

The Prime Minister of the Wasonzi 77

Euphorbia Forest near N'digadigu 80

aG504v

vi ILLUSTRATIONS

rACING PACE

The big tree near N'digadigu 80

Curious example of a strangling vine 81

Topi 90

Big herds of mixed game in typical hunting country . 91
Constructing one of the storehouses or "caches" in which

we had to leave our surplus goods 116

One of our storehouses or "caches" completed ... 116

Typical country south of the Bologonja River . . . 117

Typical hunting country in the new region . . . . 132

Where the big lion popped up in my face . ... 132

This lion was killed stone dead while in full charge . 133

Method used in drying lion skins 138

Marabout stork 139

A typical ostrich nest 139

My Reconnaissance Camp in the region south of the Bolo-
gonja River 140

Zebra, hartebeeste, and wildebeeste in the new country 141

Zebra, topi, and wildebeeste in the new country . . 141

Wildebeeste 142

A morning nap 142

He stops in contemplation 143

He departs 143

He wanders stolidly away 144

Just before the rush 145

Fish from the Mara River 156

One of the channels of the Mara River 157

Constructing a bridge across one of the numerous channels

of the Mara River 157

The Ikorongo Mountains from the East 166

Hut of the Ungruimi 166

The first step in building a hut 167

A Nungruimi granary 167

Typical N'gruimi huts, and their drunken looking gran-
aries 172

The mountain ranges east of Myeru's 172

Myeru — the older and younger ....... 173

ILLUSTRATIONS vii

FACING PAGE

An extraordinary example of stretched ear lobes . . 194

The white and pink four-petalled flowers ... 195

The sultan Missambi — in white — and one of his courtiers 200

These girls are all the aflSanced wi\-es of Missambi . 201
Grass hut near Missambi's village in which I took up my

headquarters 201

Huts of Walioba's people — the Wiregi 238

A Wiregi village, in the rocks 239

These outcrops are t}'pical of the country near Victoria Xy-

anza 242

The Wiregi guide for buffalo 243

Walioba's "Palace" 244

Walioba— "Pere" 244

An example of ear stretches and a good advertisement for

the Kodak Company 245

Wiregi porters furnished by Walioba 245

Entering Musoma on Victoria Nyanza 248

The "Chain gang" at Musoma in charge of German native

soldiers 248

R. J. Cuninghame and Stewart Edward White on their

arrival at the Lake 249

The four survivors of the donkey train 254

At Musoma — the only sawmill in the country . . 254

The entrance to Mara Bay taken from Victoria Nyanza 255

The dhow in which we sailed up Victoria Nyanza 255
Loading our dhow at Musoma for the trip up Victoria

Nyanza 255

Government Post (German) at Shirati 260

"Bologna Sausage" tree. From the wood of this tree is

brewed the poison the natives used on their arrows . 260

A Kavirondo village 261

Full fed — and absolutely satisfied 266

Although generally the Kavirondo women go stark naked,

when they marry they hang one of these "tails" behind 266

Kavirondo. This man was nearly seven feet in height 266

Kavirondo girl 267

viii ILLUSTRATIONS

FACING PAGE

The country outside the elephant forest 278

The upper Tana River near Fort Hall 278

The base camp in the elephant forest 279

One of the "Derobo" elephant hunters 284

Savages in the elephant forest 284

N'jahgi (reader's right) and his head assistant . . . 284
Mt. Kenia. It is very difificult to get a picture of this

mountain owing to the mists that enshroud it . . 284
The mists closing down on Kenia five minutes after the

other photograph was taken 284

Typical elephant forest 285

Typical elephant cover 306

Camp in the forest after the elephant kill . , . 306

"Chopping out" the ivory 307

Carrying out the ivory 307

THE

REDISCOVERED

COUNTRY

THE REDISCOVERED
COUNTRY

CHAPTER I

INTRODUCTORY

In 1910-11 Mrs. White, R. J. Cuninghame, and my-
self, with a small safari of forty men, took the usual
route via the Kedong valley, Mount Suswa, Agate's
Drift to Vandeweyer's honia on the Narossara River.
At this point we diverged from the usual route and
pushed for some distance south into the Narossara
Mountains. We found ourselves eventually confronted
by a barrier range which we could not then cross, owing
to lack of time, lack of men, and lack of provisions.
Inquiries among the Masai elicited very vague de-
scriptions of high mountain ranges succeeded by open
country. When we had returned to civilization we dis-
covered, to our surprise, that we could find out little or
nothing of what lay beyond those mountains. They
ran in a general northwesterly direction approximately
along the Anglo-German border, so that their hinter-
land would naturally fall within the German protec-
torate. But whether the large triangle was plains,
hill, or dale; whether it was watered or arid; whether

4 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

it was inhabited or desert; whether it was a good or bad
game country, we were unable to find out. No Eng-
lishman or American had been in there, and as far as
we could find out only the German military reconnois-
sances of many years previous possessed even the slight-
est knowledge of what the country might be like. This
intrigued our curiosity. We resolved to go in.

In the meantime both Cuninghame and myself tried
every possible source of knowledge, but in vain. As
far as we could find out no sportsman or traveller had
ever traversed this territory save the two or three
officials mentioned. The net results of the latter's
efforts — for the outside world — were in two maps,
which we procured. They were of great assistance,
and were in the main quite accurate for the line of
route actually trodden by their makers. Outside of
that they were to be trusted only in general. To all
intents and purposes we were the first to explore the
possibilities of this virgin country. If not its discov-
erers, we were at least its rediscoverers.

I think this was the very last virgin game field — of
any great size — remaining to be discovered and opened
up to sportsmen. There are now no more odd corners
to be looked into.

That at this late stage of the world's history such a
place still remained to be disclosed is a very curious
fact. The natural question that must arise in every
one's mind, and that must first of all be answered, is

M'GAXGA — ilY HEAD ilAN ON TWO TRIPS. HE WAS A VERY ABLE
EXECUTIVE AND SPOKE MANY NATIVE LANGUAGES

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 5

how this happens, for the prevalent behef is that Eng-
lish sportsmen have pretty well run over all the larger
possibilities. This is a legitimate question and a legiti-
mate wonder that should be answered and satisfied
before full credence can be placed in so important a
discovery. That unknown to sportsmen there still
remained in the beginning of the year 19 13 a country
as big as the celebrated hunting grounds of British
East Africa and even better stocked with game is due,
briefly, to three causes :

In the first place, the district in question has escaped
the knowledge of English sportsmen because it is situ-
ated in a very out of the way corner of a German pro-
tectorate. The Englishman is not at home in German
territory, and, as long as he can get sport elsewhere —
as he has been able to do — is not inclined to enter it.
In the second place, the German himself, being mainly
interested in administrative and scientific matters, is
rarely in the technical sense a sportsman. The usual
Teuton ofl&cial or settler does not care for shooting and
exploration, and the occasional hunter is quite content
with the game to be found near at home. He does not
like to go far afield unless he is forced to do so. In the
third place, this new country is protected on all sides
by natural barriers. Along the northern limits, whence
the English sportsman* might venture, extend high,

* The sportsmen of other nationalities, including the Germans, are in-
clined to hunt in British territory for the simple reason that the sporting
facilities are there perfected.

6 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

rough ranges of mountains through which are no
known tracks. On all other sides are arid and nearly
gameless wastes. Until we entered the country there
had been no especial reason to believe these wastes were
not continuous.

Thus the people naturally given to adventure were
discouraged from taking a go-look-see by a combination
of natural barriers, racial diffidence, and political and
official red tape. Beside which the English had not
yet come to an end of their own possibilities in British
East Africa; and the race in possession simply did not
care enough about sport to go so far merely to see more
animals than they would see nearer home. In other
words, from the German side this patch on the map
was much too far; from the British side it was practically
inaccessible.

With this brief but necessary explanation accom-
plished, we can go on. It must be remembered that
when Cuninghame and I first began to consider this
matter there was no suspicion of the existence of any
large, unexplored hunting fields. South Africa is fin-
ished; Nyassaland offers good sport, but is unhealthy,
and the species to be obtained are limited in number;
small open areas in the Congo, Uganda, the Sudan,
offer miscellaneous shooting, but are isolated and remote;
Rhodesia and British East Africa are the great game
countries par excellence, and these, while wonderful,
are well known. There is no lack of game in these

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 7

countries — indeed, it would be difficult even to convey
a faint idea of its abundance to one who had never seen
it — but in a rough way they are well known, they have
all been more or less hunted, and conditions have been
to a greater or lesser degree modified by the white man
and his rifle.

Now I think you will all bear me out that from earli-
est boyhood the one regret that oftenest visits every
true sportsman is that he has lived so late, that he has
not been able to see with his own eyes the great game
fields as we read about them in the days of their abun-
dance. It is an academic regret, of course. Such
things are not for him. Trappers' tales of when the
deer used to be abundant on Burnt Creek; old men's
stories of shooting game where the city hall now stands ;
the pages of days gone by in the book of years — we listen
and read and sigh a little regretfully.

At least that is what I had always thought. Then
in 1 9 10 I undertook a rather long journey into the game
fields of British East Africa. There I found the reports
not at aU exaggerated. The game was present in its
hundreds, its thousands. If I had done what most
people do — hunted for a few months and gone away —
I should have felt the fullness of complete satisfaction ;
should have carried home with me the realization, the
wondering realization, that after all I had lived not
too late for the old conditions. But I stayed. I be-
came acquainted with old-timers; I pushed out into

8 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

odd corners of the known country. And by degrees
I came to see that most of British East Africa is a beaten
track. Shooters are sent by the outfitting firms around
oneor the other of several well-known circles. The day's
marches are planned in advance; the night's camps.
There is plenty of game, and the country is wild; but
the sportsman is in no essentially different conditions
here than when with his guide he shoots his elk in
Jackson's Hole or his deer in the Adirondacks.

And again I heard the tales of the old-timers, varying
little from those at home — "in the old days before the
Sotik was overrun, the lions would stand for you" —
''I remember the elephants used to migrate every two
years from Kenia across the Abedares" — "before Nai-
robi was built the buffalo used to feed right in the
open until nine o'clock." In short, spite of the abun-
dance of the game, spite of the excitement and danger
still to be enjoyed with some of its more truculent
varieties, the same wistful regret sooner or later was
sure to come to the surface of thought — I wish I could
have been here then, could have seen it aU when the
country was new.

And then unexpectedly came just this experience.
We found that after all there still exists a land where
the sound of a rifle is unknown; as great in extent as the
big game fields of British East Africa; swarming with
untouched game; healthy, and, now that the route and
method have been worked out, easily accessible to a

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 9

man who is willing to go light and work. Further-
more, I must repeat, this is the last new game field of
real extent. All the rest of the continent is well
enough known. Therefore we have the real pleasure
not only in opening a new and rich country to the
knowledge of sportsmen, but the added satisfaction of
knowing that we are the last who will ever behold such
a country for the first time.

WTien we started we had no very high anticipations.
There is plenty of waste desert land in Africa. The
country between Natron and Kilimanjaro — to the
east — is arid and unproductive of much of anything but
thornbush; there was no real reason why the corre-
sponding country between Natron and Victoria Nyanza
— to the west — should be any different. Only that
the former was useless was a well-known fact ; while of
the latter the uselessness was only supposition. Cun-
inghame and I resolved to take a chance. We might
find nothing, absolutely nothing, for our pains; but even
that would be knowledge.

As far as we could see, our difficulties could be
divided into several classes. In the first place, we
must get permission to cross the boundary between the
English and German protectorates at a point where
there is no custom house. This was a real difficulty, as
those who know the usual immutability of German
officialdom will realize. It took us a year to get this
permission; and in the process many personages, in-

lo THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

eluding Colonel Roosevelt, the German Ambassador,
and high officials in Berlin, were more or less worried.
Once the matter was carried through, however, we re-
ceived the most courteous treatment and especial facili-
ties from the German Government.*

Our second important difficulty was our lack of
knowledge as to where the water was to be found. We
resolved never to move any but light scouting parties
until we were certain as to where next we were to drink.
In order to be able to make reconnoissances we had built
three pairs of bags made from double canvas, with tin
spouts, and arrangements for slinging them on donkeys.
The latter animals can go two full days without water.
Therefore we counted on a scouting radius of a day and
a half before it would be necessary to return to the
main camp. If we found more water within that
period we would naturally be able to extend this
radius. As a matter of fact we were never reduced
to straits for water. The country is in many places
very dry, and waterholes few and small; but one
accustomed to arid regions who knows where to look
should never, with reasonable precaution, get into
difficulties.

Our third great difficulty was to feed our men. In

* We arranged with the German consul at Mombasa to meet a German
customs official at a designated point near Lake Natron on August 8th.
Evidently when the authorities came to a realization of what a long, dry,
unknown journey that unfortimate official would have to take in order to
keep this rendezvous, they changed their minds. At any rate, we were
later — as wiU be seen — met by native ninners with dispatches absolving
us from this agreement.

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY ii

an explored country, or in a country^ known to be in-
habited, this is a simple matter; one merely purchases
from the natives as one goes along. In an unknown or
uninhabited region, however, the situation is differ-
ent. Each porter must receive, in addition to meat, a
pound and a half of grain food a day to keep him strong
and in good health. That is forty-five pounds per month
per man. One must know where that can be found.

As a porter can carr>' sixty pounds only, it can readily
be seen that supplies must be renewed at least every
month. To overcome this difficulty we resolved to
use donkeys for the purpose of carrying grain food —
or potio — for the men ; and to cut down the numbers of
the men to the lowest possible point. We did not feel
justified in depending on donkeys for our whole trans-
port for the reason that, in this land of strange
diseases, we could by no means feel certain of their
living; and we could not take a chance of finding our-
selves stranded. Each donkey would carry two loads,
and would not require feeding.

For these twenty beasts Cuninghame had built pack-
saddles after the American "saw buck" pattern, the
first, as far as I am aware, to be so used in Central
Africa.* The usual native saddle is a flat pad, across
which the bags, fastened loosely together, are laid.
On the level this works well enough, but up or down hill

* One other American hunter had experimented with them near Nairobi,
but reported against them. This was, I think, because he did not take the
time, trouble, and patience personally to train his men.

12 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

the loads are constantly slipping off. Then the donkey
must be caught, held, and the loads hoisted aboard.
It takes a man for every four donkeys, and the pace,
as can be imagined, is very slow. We hoped to be able
to train natives to pack American style; and trusted
that by means of the special saddles the usual objection
to donkey transport — viz.: its extreme slowness and
uncertainty — would be overcome.

Our personal outfit we reduced to a minimum, de-
parting radically from the conventional and accepted
customs of African travel. Thus our tents were small
and light, made, floorcloth and all, of one piece, after
a pattern invented by Cuninghame. We used chop
boxes as tables. Our personal effects, instruments,
surgical and medical material, and repair kits of all
sorts, we compressed to the compass of three tin boxes.
All the usual extra paraphernalia of African travel we
cut out completely. By way of provisions we took
merely the staple groceries: beans, rice, coffee, tea,
sugar, flour, oatmeal, and dehydrated fruit. Two luxu-
ries only did we allow: golden syrup and a light folding
camp-chair apiece. Nothing rests one more than the
latter article of furniture. Indeed, for this sort of a
hard trip I should almost be inclined to look on it as a
necessity rather than a luxury! Our light tents, beds,
seven boxes of provisions, trade goods, river ropes,
ammunition, and the three tin boxes made something
like twenty full loads. We decided to take thirty

KONGONI, MK.MBA SASA, SANGUIKA

DOLO, SLLlilAM, THE TOTO — OUR DONKEY FORCE

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 13

porters,* three donkey men, and seven others, including
gunbearers, camp men, cook, and head boy. Beside
these burden bearers were twenty donkeys equipped with
pack-saddles, and twenty-five other donkeys rigged
in the native fashion, hired to take their loads of grain
polio over the mountains, there to leave them, and then
immediately to return.

We started out with two riding mules, but after about
twenty-five or thirty miles of riding we had to pack
them. They died; and we walked afoot the rest of
the seventeen hundred miles.

Our men we picked very carefully. Some of them,
notably M'ganga, Memba Sasa, Kongoni, and Abba
Ali, had been with me on former expeditions. All were
personally known either to Cuninghame or myself.

As will appear in the course of the journals, we en-
countered many difficulties.

I would impress it on my readers as emphatically as
I am able that this is not a soft man's country. The
"adventurer" who wants to go out with a big caravan
and all the luxuries should go to British East Africa.
The man too old or fat or soft to stand walking under
a tropical sun should stay away, for, owing to prevalence
of tsetse, riding animals are impossible. The sport will
not like it; but the sportsman will. This country is
too dry for agriculture; the tsetse will prohibit cattle
grazing; the hard work will discourage the fellow who

* Extra men to make up for sickness and accident arc absolutely necessary.

14 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

likes his shooting brought to his bedside. But the real
out-of-doors man who believes that he buys fairly his
privilege to shoot only when he has paid a certain price
of manhood, skill, and determination, who is interested
in seeing and studying game, who loves exploring, who
wants extra good trophies that have never been picked
over, in whose heart thrills a responsive chord at the
thought of being first, such a man should by all means
go, and go soon, within the next five years. It is a
big country, and much remains to be done. He can
keep healthy, he can help open the game fields for the
future brother sportsmen, and he can for the last time
in the world's history be one of the small band that
will see the real thing!

Nevertheless, it is fully appreciated that, to the aver-
age man with limited time, even a virgin game district
is of no great general value unless it can be got at.
The average sportsman cannot afford to make great
expenditures of time, money, or energy on an ordinary
shooting trip. The accessibility as well as the abun-
dance of British East Africa game is what has made
that country so famous and so frequented. It would
be little worth your while as practical sportsmen to
spend a great deal of time over descriptions of a game
field so remote as to remain forever impossible except
to the serious explorer, nor would in that case the value
of discovering an unshot country possess other than
academic interest.

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 15

If future safaris had to retrace our footsteps in this
expedition, the game would hardly be worth the candle.
It would take too long to get there; it would involve
too much hard work ; it would involve also the necessity
of doing just what we did in regard to food; viz. : carry-
ing it in on expensive beasts that would surely be fly-
struck and die soon after crossing the mountain barrier.
But fortunately this is not necessary. We suffered only
the inconveniences inseparable from the first penetra-
tion of a new country. We paid for mistakes in route
that need only be paid once. The problems of food,
transport, and water still remain; but we have worked
out a solution of them that makes the country practi-
cable to the ordinary sportsman. In the appendix de-
tails are given.

I am convinced that these are the hunting fields of
the future, that they will be as extensively visited in
years to come as British East Africa is at present.
British East Africa is still a wonderful hunting field;
but it is passing its prime. The shooting by sportsmen
would never much diminish the game; but the settler
is occupying the country^, and game and settlers cannot
live together. I can see a great difference even in three
years. In time the game will be killed or driven far
back — game in great numbers — and even now, abun-
dant as the animals still are, it is difficult to get really
fine heads. They have been well picked over.

This particular part of the German country, on the

1 6 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

other hand, as said before, will probably never be occu-
pied. It is not fitted for agriculture, the rainfall is slight,
water is scarce; it is not adapted to grazing, for tsetse is
everywhere. The game has it all, and will continue to
have it all. Indiscriminate shooting during a great
many years -and by a great many people would hardly
affect this marvellous abundance over so extensive an
area; but, of course, indiscriminate shooting in these
modern days of game laws is impossible. The supply
is practically unlimited, and is at present threatened
with no influence likely to diminish it.

For the next five or ten years this country will, in
addition, possess for the really enterprising sportsman
the interest of exploration. Our brief expedition de-
termined merely the existence of the game country,
and, roughly, its east-to-west extent. We were too
busily engaged in getting on, and in finding our way,
to do as thorough a job as would have been desirable.
Even along the route we followed months could be
spent finding and mapping waterholes, determining the
habitat of the animals, searching out the little patches
where extremely local beasts might dwell, casting out
on either side one, two, three days' marches to fill in
gaps of knowledge.

To the south of us lay a great area we had no opportu-
nity even of approaching, and concerning which we heard
fascinating accounts — for example, the Serengetti,* a

* Not to be confused with the Serengetti near Tsavo.

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 17

grass plain many days' journey across, with a lake in
the middle, swarming with game and lions; the Ssale,
a series of bench plateaus said to be stocked with black-
maned lions beside the other game; some big volcanoes
(some of which we spied forty miles away) with forests
and meadows and elephants in the craters; and so on.
All this remains to be looked over and reported on.
As the w^aterholes are found, the possibihties of reach-
ing out farther will be extended. We have really only
made the roughest of rough sketches. The many
sportsmen who will follow us must fill in the picture.

CHAPTER II

July 7. — Worked all the morning at N. T. & Co.'s

store fitting saddles to donkeys — our safari kit was all

made ready yesterday. At 12:45 the men set out; and

at 2:25 we got off with the beasts. Started out over

the hills past Government House, over a new piece of

road on which some hundreds of Kikuyus were working

strictly by hand, and so out to a rolling wooded green

country of glades and openings, tiny streams, and

speckled sunHght. Little forest paths led off in all

directions. Natives were singing and chanting near

and far. There were many birds. Toward evening

we passed a long safari of native women, each bent

forward under a load of firewood that weighed sixty to

eighty pounds. Even the littlest little girls carried

their share. They seemed cheerful, and were taking

the really hard work as a tremendous joke. We passed

them strung out singly or in groups, for upward of half

an hour; then their road turned off from ours; and still

they had not ceased. Camped after nine miles near the

mountain of N'gong. Vanderweyer 's farm is near

here ; and there are staying the guides he promised us to

take us across the dry country to his trading homa on

the Narossara River. M 'ganga went over to see them.

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 19

July 8. — Up at five, with breakfast in the dark.
Then we sat ourselves down to wait for the guides who
had promised to be over early. They drifted in at
8:10, and we set out. After we had been going some
little time they blandly informed us that the track we
had been advised to take was without water for three
days. That they told us at all was entirely accidental.
We immediately called a halt and after some shauri*
we headed at right angles for Kedong. It was a park
country aU day, with forests, groves, open meadows,
side hiU shambas,^ and beautiful intimate prospects
through trees. Kiku>ais were ever^-where.

At about ten o 'clock we came to a little boggy stream,
insignificant to look at, and unimportant to porters, but
terrible to donkeys. We built a sort of causeway of
branches, rushes, earth, etc., and then set in to get our
faithful friends to use it. Then and there we discov-
ered that when a donkey gets discouraged over any-
thing, he simply lies down, and has to be lifted bodily
to a pair of very limber legs before he will go on.
Luckily these were smaU donkeys; we lifted most of
them.

After a time we topped a ridge and came out on
roUing grass hills, with lakes of grass in valleys, and
cattle feeding, and a distant uplift that marked the
limit of the Likipia escarpment. At two o'clock we

*Confab, pow-wow.
tNative clearings.

20 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

made camp in the high grass atop one of these
swells. All afternoon we worked busily remedying
defects in our saddlery, rivetiag, sewing, and cutting.
That night we heard again our old friends the fever owls.

Four and three-quarter hours; iij miles; elevation,
6,900; ther., 5:00 A. M., 52; 2:00 p. M., 78; 8:30, 58.

July 9. — Daylight showed us a beautiful spectacle
of lakes of fog in the shallow valleys below us, and
trailing mists along the hills, and ghostlike trees
through thin fog. We stumbled for a time over lava
debris under the long grass. At the end of an hour or so
the sun had burned the fog — and dried our legs. We
came to the edge of the escarpment and looked at the
Kedong a half mile directly below. Atop the bench
we saw our first game : a herd of impalla and twelve
zebra.

Then we went down 2,400 feet, nearly straight. We
did not do it all at once — not any ! Not until nearly
sundown. The men went all right, but the donkeys were
new to the work,* the saddlery not yet adjusted, and
we ignorant of how to work this sort of cazi. We had
to adjust packs every few minutes, sometimes to re-
pack. About noon some of the beasts lay down and
refused to get up. We unpacked them, took off their
saddles. They stretched out absolutely flat and

* These African donkeys have for generations lived their lives on the plains.
They are quite unaccustomed to hills, and have no idea of how to handle
themselves in difficult country. In this they differ markedly from our own
western burros.

♦

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 21

looked moribund. We thought three of them dying.
Not a bit. After half an hour they arose refreshed. In
aU we left eight loads of potio by the trail and drove
the donkeys on light. The going was very steep and
stony, and the sun fierce. Our little force of white men,
two donkey men, and three gunbearers certainly worked
hard.

At four o'clock, all but four being off the hill, I rode
ahead across the flat to camp and sent back fifteen men
with lanterns to bring in loads. On the plains I saw
many Grant's gazelles, one oryx, some kongoni, zebra,
and ostrich. Our camp was by the Kedong "River," a
little stream a few feet wide. About us were lava beds
and benches. The high sheer escarpment lay on one
side, and the lofty cone of Mount Suswa on the other.
It was perhaps twenty miles to the south from my camp
of 1910.

At six o'clock all the animals were in; but some of the
men who went after loads were out all night. It was
amusing to see how the donkeys sidled up to one, in-
sistently, begging plainly to have their loads taken off.

Eleven and one half hours; 9 miles; elevation, 4,500;
ther,, 5:00 A. M., 50; noon (?);8:30, 68.

July 10. — A warm night. It was agreed that I was
to push on with the men to the next water, while
Cuninghame rested and grazed the donkeys, and awaited
the men who had been out all night. Climbed suc-
cessively several low lava benches to a plateau, and

22 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

then marched across a broken volcanic plain south of
Suswa. Memba Sasa stayed to help with the donkeys,
and Kongoni accompanied me in advance to pick up
meat. We were here in the game reserve and were not
supposed to do any shooting, but in view of the terribly
hard work the men were performing Cuninghame's
judgment was in favour of shooting a really necessary
beast or so. Later we would report the fact to the
Game Department and obtain official absolution.

Kongoni's conversation was most engaging as he told
me all about a number of safaris he had been on since
last we met.

"Now," said he in conclusion, "when you were here
before, you shot well. See that you shoot well now,"
with which admonition he fell silent and dropped be-
hind.

Heard a lion up near Suswa, and saw many fresh
tracks. The sky was thinly overcast. Saw a good deal
of game of the following species: Roberts' gazelle, im-
palla, zebra, eland, kongoni, steinbuck, ostrich, guinea
fowl, and spurfowl. The grass is very long. When
near the next water I fired my first shot this trip at a
gazelle at about 200 yards. It was a miss, but shortly
I killed one at 155 yards. This settled our own meat.
Next, for the men, I hit a zebra at 260 and brought him
down by a good long one at 377. The last was very
lucky, but it pleased Kongoni immensely. He clapped
me on the back. The safari came along, picked up the

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 23

meat, and we marched off the rocky plateau into a deep
gorge where were rock pockets of water. The gorge is
one running out from Suswa. Indeed, we are only
barely off the slope. Here we made camp by some ex-
traordinarily vivid green bushes.

Cuninghame waited four hours before starting, in
order to graze the donkeys. He got in about two o'clock,
reporting a quick easy trip with everything going nobly.

Three and a half hours; 9I miles; elevation, 4,500;
ther., 5:00 A. M., 58; noon, St,; 8:30 p. m., 68.

July II. — Porter preparing my box for the march.
To him M'ganga:

"If you put that meat on that box, it will smell; and
the hwana will say something, and he'll say it to me.''

Off at 6:40. The early mornings are most strenuous
times for Cuninghame and me. Our usual dispositions
are as follows: At once on reaching camp the loads
are removed from the donkeys, and they are allowed
to graze about a while with their saddles on until their
backs have had time to cool a bit. Then off-saddle
and the Toto takes them grazing until dusk. At dark
they are driven into the circle formed by our tents.
There two heavy ropes have been stretched along the
ground between pegs. At intervals rawhide thongs
have been attached to these ropes, and by the thongs
the donkeys are made fast by the foreleg. No Ameri-
can animal would stand for this treatment, but these
beasts are quite peaceable. In the morning Memba

24 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

Sasa, Kongoni, Sanguiki, Sulimani, and Dolo have the
task of saddling up. Cuninghame and I circulate rap-
idly, keeping track of things. It is astonishing how
many wrong ways there are of saddling a donkey; but
most of the boys are bright, and are learning rapidly
all the little kinks. When the job is finished we make
a final inspection, seeing that the breeching, breasting^
and cinches are all right, that the saddle is weU back
from the withers — an absolute necessity with donkeys
— that the pads are weU loosened along the backbone,
etc. All being in order, the men come up in pairs,
lifting the loads aboard. We cinch them in place, and
are off.

During the day our chief concern is to keep those
blessed donkeys on their feet. Once one hes down, for
any reason whatever, it takes three men to get him up
again — one to urge, the other two to ease him of his
loads. Often he must be unpacked before he will rise.
As a general thing they toddle along well enough the
first part of the day, but toward ten o'clock they begin
to flop down in almost any likely place. A patch of
sand or dust seems irresistible. When such is en-
countered, everybody begins to yeU and shout and
rush to and fro trying to hustle them across. And if one
lies down, many others are apt to follow his example.
It is dusty, hot aggravating work ; but it has to be done
if we are to get into the unknown country at aU.

Travelled aU morning through an Arizona-like coun-

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 25

try of buttes, cliffs, and wide grassy sweeps. Against
Mount Suswa we saw many steam blowholes like camp-
fire smokes. Footing bad. At first cool; then a very
powerful sun. Saw considerable game in streaks —
kongoni, a few zebra, many Robertsi, a herd of eland,
a few Tommy, and ostrich. About noon we entered the
hills through a gateway and almost immediately came
to a dry stream bed in lava rocks, well up in the hills.
The sun here was reflected with fearful strength. Every-
body pretty weU done. We had the men sit down, and
started out to search for water. A mile or so up we
discovered a rock "tank" with gravel beach containing
a sort of green Uquid. It was atrociously bad, but by
digging holes in the gravel, nearly enough filtered
through to supply man and beast with a passable beve-
rage. Sun very fierce among these rocky hills.

Out making observations with the prismatic, saw a
klip-springer, and was followed by my old friend the
kalele plover.

On my return Cuninghame and I crawled up the
stream bed until we found a natural bower where the
bushes overarched, and there we ate and sat until the
heat of the day had passed. One of the boys, out look-
ing for better water, found a fresh lion lair. As I have
said, we always pitch the tents in a circle, and tether
the donkeys in the middle at night, but have intended
to make no attempt to keep up fires. Sulimani was
once an askari, however, and he has taken it on himself

26 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

to keep a night fire. To this end he sleeps in the open
alongside his blaze. Periodically he arises, buckles on
a cartridge belt, seizes his gun, puts a stick on the fire,
lays dowTi the gun, takes off the cartridge belt, and
stretches himself out to sleep. Great is habit! It is
very amusing.

Five hours; 14 miles; elevation, 4,500; 5:00 a. m., 60;
noon, 84; 8:30 p. M., 65.

July 12. — Start at 6:40 through a rocky volcanic pass
out on to a long scrub slope, miles and miles wide, at
the foot of which was the N'gouramani River* and
the Mau escarpment. Beyond and above the latter we
could see the Narossara Mountains.

The men knew this was to be a long, hard march, and
they were aU improvising songs the burden of which
was "Campi m'bale, campi m^bale sana." {'' Camp is far,
camp is very far.")

We saw little game until within four or five miles of
the river. Then appeared Robertsi, zebra, kongoni,
one herd oryx, ostrich, many warthog, and six giraffe.
Brilliant bul-buls, horn-bills, mori, and many grouse
represented the bird family. Near the river were
hundreds of parrots.

The river which we reached at last about two o'clock
proved to be in flood and running fast. A rotten old
rope spanned it. Four Kikuyus were drowned here

* Otherwise the Southern Gwaso Nyero. I prefer the other name to
distinguish it from the Northern Gwaso Nyero, from which it is separated
by some hundreds of nules.

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 27

last week. By means of the rope we crossed several
men who pulled over our o^\ti sound rope and strung
it between two trees. I crossed — up to my armpits,
and holding very fast — and took charge of the farther
end. The moment I entered the water the men set
up a weird minor chant to the effect :

"The bwana is entering the water; the bwana is in the
water; the bwana is nearly across; the bwana is out of
the water."
They tightened the rope by song also :
Headman (sings): "Ka-lam-bay! Men Huh V'
Headman : * ' Ka-lam-bay ! Men Huh ! ' '
Headman: "Kalambay 00 chak a la fa! Men Hu-a-
a-y!"

The pull comes only at the hu-a-a-y, but it is a good
one. On the cable we strung a snatch block and a
light line, and thus pulled all the loads across. This
took us all afternoon so the donke}'s we left until to-
morrow. To cross seventy loads one at a time is some
cazi, for each has to be slung separately. At dark we
changed our wet clothes and enjoyed dinner!

Seven hours; 19 miles; elevation, 4,100; 5:00 a. m.,
58; noon (?); 8:30 p. m., 60.

July 13. — Leaving Cuninghame to rig the tackle, I
took a three-hour jaunt downstream to get meat. The
little strip between the escarpment and the river is
only a few hundred yards to half a mile wide, but is
diversified with brush, trees, and grass country. Saw

28 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

three waterbuck, fifteen kongoni, twelve zebra, one
dik-dik, and some impalla, and heard Hon and hyena.
Game birds, however, wxre in swarms. At every step
I flushed grouse, quail, guinea fowl, or pigeons. Killed
a kongoni with ones hot off hand at 247 yards, and re-
turned to find Cuninghame ready for business.

We then tackled the donkey question. Our method
was as follows: Cuninghame and half a dozen huskies
hitched a donkey to the end of a long rope the other
end of which I, across the river, held. Then they
lifted that reluctant donkey bodily and launched him
in. I tried to guide him to the only possible landing-
place fifty yards or so downstream. This was easy
enough with the two mules; I merely held tight, let
them swim, and the current swung them around. Not
so the donkeys! They naturally swim very low, the
least thing puts them under, then they get panicky, they
try to turn back, they try to swim upstream; in short,
they do everything they should not do. Result : about
25 per cent, went across by schedule, the rest had to be
pulled, hauled, slacked off, grabbed, and yanked out
bodily. Some just plain sank, and them we pulled in
hand over hand as fast as we could haul them under
water — in the hope of getting them over before they
drowned. Succeeded, but some were pretty groggy.
One came revolving like a spinner, over and over. Each
animal required individual treatment at the line, and
after two experiments with the best of the men we

CROSSING THE SOUTHERN GWASO N^YERO — OR N'GOURAJIANI — RIVER. GETTING

THE FIRST LIGHT LINE OVER

SEE PAGE 27

CROSSING III,

k.\ GWASO WKRO. GETTING THE LINE OVER
SEE PAGE 27

SLINGING LOADS, BY MEANS OF A SNATCH BLOCK, ACROSS THE SOUTHERN

GWASO NYERO RIVER

SEE PAGE 29

THE SOUTHERN GWASO NYERO RIVER

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 29

decided I'd better keep that job. Talk about your
tuna fishing! I landed twenty big donkeys in two
hours !

Then we had lunch; and to us, out of the blue, came
Vanderweyer 's man, Dowdi, saying that his master's
donkeys and loads of sugar had been camped a mile or
so back for the past twenty-two days waiting for the
river to go do\^Ti so they could cross, and would we
cross them? Now, beside doing Vanderweyer a good
turn, we had counted on hiring some of these same
donkeys for a short time to help us on with our potio;
which obviously we could not do if the beasts were on
the wrong side of the river. Dowdi told us there were
twenty-five. So we took on the job.

The men crossed the loads by cable while Cuning-
hame and I went to submarine donkey fishing again.
Muscularly it was hard work, but actually it was
rather fun, with a dash of uncertainty and no two alike.
After we had worked an hour or so and were just
getting down to the last of the bunch, more donkeys
appeared. Instead of twenty-five there proved to be
forty-seven. Wily Dowdi had lured us on! We got
quite expert. The moment the line was hauled back
by means of a cord, Cuninghame clapped on the hitch,
the donkey was unceremoniously dumped in, and I
hauled him across any side up he happened to be. We
had long since got over being tender of their feelings.
My men received him, yanked him to his feet, and

30 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

left him blowing and dripping to take care of himself.
We crossed twenty-one in the last hour! In all sixty-
seven and two mules. Remained only to reclaim our
tackle, and we are ready for to-morrow's march. But
we are dead dogs to-night!
Five o'clock, 49; noon (?); night, 63.

CHAPTER III

July 14. — At our usual 6:40 we were off to climb
the first step of the escarpment. Struck a Masai track
and so went up rather easily. The donkeys travel
much better uphill than down. Met four Masai run-
ners, their spears bound in red indicating that they
were bearers of messages.

At the top which was a matter of some fifteen hun-
dred feet, at a guess, we journeyed through a steppe of
thin scrub and grassy openings, with occasional little
hills. On this same steppe two years ago, but much
farther to the south, I killed two lions. Passed some
Masai villages, with the fair ones seated outside pol-
ishing their ornaments while the naked children and
the dogs played around them. Here I shot a marabout,
but his tail proved not worth saving. Shortly after
saw some Robertsi far down the valley to the left,
and got lured away after them. In the course of my
stalk I passed thirteen giraffe, very tame, that looked
on me with mild curiosity. Got within 200 yards of
my herd, and hit my buck, but only in the ribs. Then
began one of those long, stern chases that take so much
time and work. The buck was "unreasonably sus-
picious," and there was no cover in which to approach

32 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

him. I sometimes had great difficulty in keeping tabs
on him at all through the heat haze. After great
difficulty got within 250 yards — and missed. A mile
farther took another chance at somewhere beween
200 and 300 yards and hit high in the flank. Missed
again, as he made off. A mile farther killed him with a
square shoulder shot at 277 yards.

Much relieved, we took the meat and trophy, found
the trail of the safari, and set out to follow it. This
led us across the plains, through a low pass and into a
pocket of the hills just like some of the little hot valleys
in our coast range. A dry wash ran through it, but
some holes contained enough water for our purposes.
The mountains round about were covered with chap-
arral.

In this, rather to our surprise, we saw zebra. In
fact later (these notes are being written August 8th)
we found a great deal of plains game in the brush hills,
driven from the plains by the increase of Masai cattle.
Cuninghame is inclined to think that the future of the
plains game in British East Africa is just this, and not
extermination. If so, good-bye the millionaire safari!
To hunt game, no matter how abundant, on these hills
and in this brush would require altogether too much
work and skill for those "softlings."

Incidentally, the zebra, so conspicuous on the plains,
is very hard to make out, even near-to, in the brush.
This is in thin brush where the conceahng quality of

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 33

the cover, per se, is very slight. The direction of the
light has little to do with it. They are quite invisible
where the neutral-coloured kongoni are plainly seen.
Even the natives often overlook them at less than 100
yards !

At three o'clock Cuninghame and I sauntered up into
the hills to pick up men's meat, if possible, and to see
what we could. We found ourselves in a broken, hilly,
brushy country, semi-mountainous, again like Califor-
nia coast ranges. A few Roberts' gazelles in an open-
ing atop a round hill and two giraffe were about the
size of it until late, when we made out a herd of zebra
on the mountain opposite. I sneaked over, stalked
within range, and missed through the brush. The herd
clattered away up the side hill, dodging in and out the
brush. Catching a glimpse of a darker object, I took
a quick sight and had the luck to bring it down dead at
310 yards. It proved to be a fine old bull wildebeeste
that had strayed off with the zebra ! Think of a wilde-
beeste far within the mountains, in thick cover, and
miles from the nearest plains !

Leaving the men to take in the meat, we went home
along the top of a very high ridge, or mountain range,
enjoying the cool sunset and the view far abroad over
the land. On this extreme summit we found impalla
and kongoni in numbers! Three years ago I should
certainly have considered country of this nature as
probably quite barren of game. Change of habitat

34 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

under stress is a very curious thing, and should be more
taken into consideration.

This evening the camp, which has been rather silent
of late, burst into many little fires and the chanting of
songs. Meat once more was roasting and frying and
broiling, and everybody was happy! Though the
temperature in the shade has been low, the sun was
very strong.

Eight miles; 5J hours; elevation, 6,600; 5 :oo a.m., 50;
noon, 72; night, 62.

July 15. — Start 6:30. Clambered through a rocky
brushy pass, out of the hills, to the high, rolling grass
hills below the Narossara. Saw a great many zebra,
but no other game until we caught sight of a lone wilde-
beeste to the left. I made a long and careful stalk in
good cover to leeward, but he was wary and was fright-
ened away by the birds. However, by careful work I
managed at last to get within 240 yards, when I hit
him low in the shoulder. He ran some 300 yards, but
then went down.

While we were preparing this trophy, M'ganga came
with reports of eland in the next valley. Leaving men
with the wildebeeste, Cuninghame and I at once set off.
If the report proved true, we considered ourselves in
luck. One of our desiderata was a female eland; and if
we could get it before leaving Vanderweyer's we would
save ourselves carrying farther a very heavy trophy.
We found a lone cow lying under a tree and guarded by

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

o:)

several hundred zebra. To get within range we had
to slip down the side hill, practically no cover, taking
care to be seen neither by her nor the zebra. We took
much time and got as near as we could. She was lying
down, facing away from us, and to get her I had to hit
about ten inches of spine. It would be impossible to
get any nearer, so I rested up from the crawling and
tried the shot. Had luck, and hit the exact spot. She
got to her feet, staggered ten yards, and went down —
263 yards. Fine female to go with my big bull.

Got in to Vanderweyer's about one o'clock, and
camped in our old place by the Narossara River.* Van-
derweyer has shaved off his beard. He still trades with
the Masai, and tames chickens to sit on his shoulder.
We had a talk, got some trade goods of him, and had
him to dine.

With him we talked over our next step, for from his
boma we started three years ago when we got our little
taste of the new country to the south.* He advised
our going on to the village of old Naiokatoku,* other-
wise knowTi as Sendeu, promising that that chief would
supply us with guides. Remembering the old fellow's
friendly attitude in 191 1, we agreed. Furthermore,
we made an arrangement with Vanderweyer for the
hire of twenty-five of his donkeys, together with six
men to run them, to carry potto for us until we had
crossed the mountain barrier to the south. Then they

*See "African Camp Fires."

36 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

were to return. The hire was Rs 12 ($4) per diem for
the lot.

Vanderweyer's dog has a litter of puppies down an
old warthog hole and refuses to bring them up.

Note: The steeper the hill the louder the porters sing.
Where do they get the breath?

Four and three-quarter hours; 9I miles; elevation,
6,300; 5:00 A. M., 50; noon, 79; night, 68.

July 16. — Start 7:00. Sky overcast and cool.
Marched ahead of the safari through the forest pass of
the Narossara Mountains to the Fourth Bench, as in
191 1.* Saw many Masai, and a few kongonis, zebra,
and Robertsi. Passed the Sacred Tree stuffed full of
stones, bunches of grass, and charms. Memba Sasa
looked a little ashamed — but he contributed . D onkey s
scrambled up the hill well.

Vanderweyer has sent, in addition to the twenty-
five donkeys we hired of him, a dozen of his own laden
with trade goods as a sort of flyer. They are equipped
with the native soga. This is a padded gunny sacking
strapped about the animal's body. Tw^o loads of potio
are sewn together and thrown across this pad. There
is no fastening; they ride by their own weight and
balance. Even in level country they are apt to get out
of balance and occasionally to fall off; but on hills they
are hopeless. It takes one man to hold a donkey and
two to lift on the load. The little beasts get quite

*See "African Camp Fires."

MASAI GIRL AND MARRIED WOMAN
SEE PACE 37

MASAI MARRIED WUMAN

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 37

expert, not at deliberately dumping their burdens,
perhaps, but at least in assisting the forces of gravity.
Vanderweyer's head man is a little wrinkle-faced,
baboon-like Swahili, named Dowdi, and his second man
a very airy and nonchalant Wakamba. The whole six
certainly earned their wages. Driving, yelling, lifting
loads, they seem to be indulging in a sort of stationary
riot, but somehow the whole mess does move forward.
For an ordinary five hours' march they take from
eight to nine hours, however. Now that our own
beasts are getting accustomed to the work, they come
in very close after the porters; so we are very well
pleased with our American pack-saddle rig.

Climbed the beautiful forest trail, and out to the
bench. Made camp just where in 191 1 we turned off
to our Topi Camp.* Thousands of briUiant butterflies
fluttering just over a waterhole made a pretty sight.
Many Masai, men and women, visited us. I had a
wonderful success with simple coin tricks, a sword cane
George Bachelder had presented and which Ali proudly
carries as a safari stick, an old opera hat Newland gave
us, and the image in the Graflex. Tried in vain to buy
spears, but was offered a girl of fifteen — who seemed
pleased — for three rupees. This by a man who had
seen me — and Mrs. White — in 191 1. Said he gravely:

"You did not bring any of your women with you this
time."

*See "African Camp Fires."

H*y

365047

38 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

Elevation, 7,200; 5:00 A. M., 58; noon, 70; night, 50.

July 17. — Clear before dawn, but at sunrise a heavy
fog descended. Very heavy dew. The long grass im-
mediately wet us to the waist.

We went on our old trail of 191 1 as far as the first
camp on the side hill; then instead of keeping ahead
crossed directly to the right over the swamp. I looked
for signs of our old camp, but the two years had abso-
lutely obliterated every trace. While waiting for
Cuninghame and the donkeys to go around the swamp,
I had a long chat with two old Masai. They were
quite in awe of the keenness and temper of the sword
stick, told me of a lion, etc. When Cuninghame ar-
rived we proceeded on down the side of the swamp, and
reached our old friend Sendeu's permanent manyatta.
It was located on an elevation above the swamp, among
forest trees, with high wooded hills at its back, and a
magnificent prospect of great forests a mile or so across
the way. It differed from the usual Masai temporary
village in that it was strongly stockaded, with large
houses. Another similar enclosure fairly adjoined it,
and several nearby ordinary manyattas completed the
entourage of so great a chief.

We marched directly through, and made camp in the
woods. The surroundings and outlook were beautiful;
great trees and vines, and vistas out through them of
valleys and green marshes and great wooded mountains
all around. Our camp farthest south in 1 9 1 1 was oppo-

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 39

site and about two miles away. I could make out the
site through my glasses.

Many very gorgeous warriors in full panoply visited
us. They said the chief was sleeping. More likely
drunk, said we, remembering him of old. Of course
we could not disturb his majesty, so had to wait pa-
tiently.

As he had not showed up by two o'clock, I agreed
to climb the high hills at the back (to the west) and
get a look abroad over the to us unknown country
through which we must go. An hour's hard climb and
I gazed out over a tumble of lower hills ending in a
sheer rampart of great mountains about fifteen miles
away. At first glance it took my breath away and
looked absolutely hopeless: below me was a labyrinth
and against me was a wall. Then I sat down with
my glasses, prismatic compass, and notebook and
carefully took stock. There seemed to be two possible
passes, and I noted them and marked them by land-
marks. I congratulated myself that we did not have
to work through that on our own! Of course the
Masai must have a track down through, and I remem-
bered old Sendeu's cordial friendliness and promises
of 191 1. He would, naturally, supply us with guides,
and we would go down sailing ! We counted on getting
through in about five days !

Saw many impalla, zebra, and kongoni in the brush
on the mountainside, like so many California deer, a

40 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

most remarkable habitat. Shot a zebra up the moun-
tain at 237 yards, and a buck and doe impalla at close
range in bush, first missing a doe.

Returned to camp to find Sendeu and his court just
arrived. Drink has made him very flabby and puffy
since we saw him last. I greeted him with cordiality,
but to my surprise found him surly, taciturn, and un-
friendly. To our questions as to trails, guides, etc.,
he replied that there was no trail, he had no guides.
He said barefacedly that he did not remember us; he
had no milk, no sheep. Between whiles he stared at
the ground. His beautiful warriors were plainly un-
easy.

"Very well," I said at last, "the bwana m'kubwa has
many presents for those that help him. He is sorry
you cannot help him. But he is generous, nevertheless;
take this knife. Good-bye."

They filed out sullenly. Later we tried through
some of our men to get information from underlings,
but without success, except that we learned that two
Masai from the German side were at that moment in
another manyatta and about to return! Why this
change of front we could not at that time make out.*

The situation was rather a facer, for we had relied
absolutely on Sendeu to get through this difficult

* On our return to Nairobi we were told by Vanderweyer that a certain
Englishman and an Italian baron had procured guides from Sendeu. These
sportsmen procured lion, elephant, and buffalo within two weeks and came
out; but as they alleged some cause of complaint against the guides they

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

jumble of country. However, we agreed to tackle it.
In former years I had done a good deal of pioneer
mountain travel with animals, and believed I could get
through by observation of formations. Cuninghame
was willing to try.

Heard lions to-night.

Five hours; 11 miles; elevation, 7,000; morning, 40;
noon, 70; night, 58.

refused to pay the stipulated wages. Hence Sendeu's hostility to ourselves.
If this is as reported it is a remarkably good e.xample of how not to handle
natives. The sportsmen had been guided, had procured what they went
after, and had returned in a short time. Therefore they owed the wages.
If they had any cause for complaint they should have taken the matter up
with Sendeu, after payment. The wages go to Sendeu, not to the guides;
and Sendeu had done his part of the bargain. As it was they made it very
difficult for the ne.xt white men — ourselves. As will be seen, we not only
had to nose a way through very difficult country at great expense of time
and energy, but we early got into tsetse fly that could have been avoided.

CHAPTER IV

JxJLY i8. — Started very early over the high hill on
which I hunted the day before, and down the other
side into the welter of smaller hills. When we were
halfway down two Masai with arms passed us on a run
without deigning us a greeting. Subsequent experi-
ence made us certain that these were at once spies on
us to see w^hich way we would go and messengers to
warn other manyattas to give us no information. At
the bottom of the hill we sent Sanguiki to a village to
try to find out something. He returned to tell us that
the Masai were kali sana* and would tell nothing.
Therefore we struck along the top of a likely grass
ridge that took our general direction, found a Masai
trail that went our way, and jogged on. The ridge,
after sLx or seven miles, ran down into a broad grass
ravine that led to a small river flowing along the base
of the high mountain wall.

We were amused by a small herd of zebra that kept
just ahead of us, and seemed vastly indignant at being
repeatedly driven forward. In the grass swale I
jumped seven big eland at about fifty yards — a fine
sight.

*Very fierce.

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 43

We soon discovered that the banks of the stream
were too swampy to permit us to cross, so we went
down a mile or so and camped. After lunch Cuning-
hame and I with four men set out to scout a way. I
had located as a landmark a small green patch on the
mountainside below the possible pass, and toward this
we bent our energies. We found a ford — after being
scared by a crashing old rhino at close quarters — and
ascended the mountain toward the green patch. The
way proved feasible until we reached a round elevated
valley below the final rise of the escarpment. At
this point we found a spring of water and marked it on
our sketch map. A herd of zebra and kongoni were
here. I killed one of the former, after one miss, with
a heart shot at 2 70 yards. Leaving the men to attend
to him, Cuninghame and I toiled directly up the pre-
cipitous side hill to the summit. Here we got an ex-
tensive view of a wild tumble of hills that looked
impracticable, but could see plainly below us and to the
the west a feasible pass to a stream on the other side of
the ridge. Also across the way another water, with a
great concourse of baboons sitting around it. Quite
satisfied for the moment, we named it Gilbert Pass in
honour of my brother's birthday.

The long tramp brought us back to camp at dusk.
Wonderful moon, and very chilly night.

M'ganga back from another Masai village with no
news except that the runners had been there warning

44 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

them to give no information. Sendeu's animosity seems
complete.

Safari, three hours; 8 miles. We in addition, five
hours; lo to 12 miles; elevation, 6,300; morning, 48;
noon, 72; night, 48.

July 19. — Over Gilbert Pass to the stream, and then
downstream for some distance over an old Masai trail
in a narrow valley between mighty mountains. A
honey bird followed us for over an hour beseeching us
to turn aside, and then flew away in disgust at our
stupidity. Saw duiker, reedbuck, kongoni, zebra,
eland, warthog, and mongoose. The trail ended in a
small round valley and a salt lick. Shot a Chanler's
reedbuck standing by the lick at 94 yards.

The situation here is wonderful, great frowning peaks
and mountains over the way ; narrow caiions and valleys,
forest caps and groves here and there on the steeps,
all very austere and grand.

After lunch Cuninghame and I took up our regular
job of scouting. The river here entered a deep narrow
rock gorge, so we spent much toil in ascending the hill
to the left of it, whence we looked out over so tumbled
and broken a country that we immediately gave up
going south and returned for a cast to westward.
River here quite big, and we forded up to our waists.
For some time we had no luck in getting through the
westward hills on account of dense forest, but finally
discovered a game trail that led us through the woods

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 45

and up over a low pass to look abroad on so beautiful a
wide shallow grass valley dotted with groves that we
named it Pleasant Valley. Here we saw a few head
of game, including some eland. Cuninghame cHmbed
the south ridge of Pleasant Valley and reported preci-
pices. Therefore our only possible course must be
down the valley. We must take our luck at the lower
end. Got in at sundown.

At midnight two rhinos from the salt Hck blundered
into the edge of camp. Great excitement and row,
and we had to turn out to scare them off.

Safari, five hours; 1 1 J miles. We did in addition four
hours; about 9 miles; elevation, 6,200; morning, 38;
noon, 72 ; night, 58. Coldest morning I have ever seen
in Africa.

July 20. — Marched up through our forest pass and
on to lower end of Pleasant Valley. There we squatted
the safari, and Cuninghame and I each went in for a
long hunt for a way out of the cup. Each found a
feasible route. Surmounted the ridge that hemmed in
the valley and looked out upon another very big oval
valley filled with thorn scrub. It was completely
surrounded by another high rampart, with only an
apparent narrow break where a river went through
about six miles distant and at the lower end.

Headed for that. Hard travel over rough country
in high grass and thorns that tore at us eagerly. At
the lower end of the valley we marched high above a

46 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

canon for a couple of miles, then camped below two
enormous peaks, one of which we named Mount Bell-
field in honour of the present governor of British East
Africa. We are now in the heart of the range, and
accept with thankfulness each mile vouchsafed us. A
narrow forest bordered a stream of beautiful clear
water. Never have I seen so marvellous a display of
curtain vines and gorgeous flowering trees.

Six hours; 13 miles; elevation, 5,800; morning, 49;
noon, 84; night, 58.

July 21. — The outlook was now so very uncertain
that Cuninghame and I scouted ahead before breaking
camp at all. Enormous rugged mountains compassed
us about, and we feared the river would end in an im-
passable gorge. We took a rhino track that speedily
led us into a caiion bed with a wonderful forest of great
trees, looped snaky vines, lacy underbrush, tree ferns?
and flowering bushes. There were many baboons
and monkeys swinging about. The sun rarely pene-
trated. Great rock clififs towered at either hand, and
the clear stream dashed down cataracts and waterfalls
among the boulders.

The rhino track led true for some distance, then
petered out to a monkey trail and ended in a gorge.
There was evidently no further way down the stream
bed. If we were to win through, it must be by way of
the steeps on either hand. Therefore I tackled the
slope to the right, while Cuninghame took the other.

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 47

By dint of crawling, climbing straight up, and worming
my way, I gained the top of a ridge and most unex-
pectedly found it to be a spur, or "hogsback" between
our stream and another flowing into it some distance
below. Followed the ridge until I found it did not
"jump off" at the end, then returned and shouted for
Cuninghame. He scrambled up, and together we set
to find a practicable back way down to the level of our
stream. Found a blessed — but disused — rhino trail.

Cuninghame returned for men. When they arrived,
he and I each took charge of a squad with axes and
pangas* and slowly we hewed out a good path. We
landed finally at a grove of trees near the junction of
the two streams and sent the men back to get camp.
Sufficient unto the moment was the progress thereof.
We were farther along, but apparently not much better
off, for our river here plunged into another gorge flanked
with high cliffs. A wide valley led to a mountain range
to the left. Evidently we were in for another climb
somewhere, the only question was as to which made
the best climb. Cuninghame agreed to tackle the
range near the gorge, while I explored the valley.

Went up about three miles to where I could see that
it ended in a cul-de-sac. Returning, turned aside to
stalk a bull eland — absolutely the only game seen for
two days — and found a concealed narrow tributary
valley that led to a possible pass. Very hot.

* Panga — a sort of universal tool something like a machete.

48 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

At camp found that Cuninghame had hit on my same
route from above. The chffs opposite are hung with
traihng rope-Hke cactus, and inhabited by many ba-
boons.

Made only 4 miles, but walked nine and a half hours;
elevation, 5, 400; morning, 50; noon, 88; night, 57.

July 22. — Started the day with a terrific cHmb, almost
straight up to the summit of the ridge. The footing
was very bad and it made very sweaty hard work for
men and beasts. Got there finally. Very fine view
back over the way we have come. Wondered how we
ever got through. From above it looks absolutely
hopeless. This looks like the top.

From here south the ranges get smaller, so that we
can look out over lesser and lesser systems until far
away we could guess at the brown of plains. Men fairly
cheered at the sight of the latter. But it looked like a
puzzler to get down there. Our river has hopelessly
plunged somewhere off to the right, leaving us marooned
in the high country, and the ridges and canons seemed
to be heavily grown with a kind of chaparral and to
have no order or system or open passes. Far away to
the south we dimly made out two enormous craters
that must be upward of 12,000 feet high.

However, across the shallow canon head that ran
up from the profundities of the river, and in the next
transverse ridge, was a notch opposite, so we made for
that. From its saddle we saw another small valley,

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 49

and beyond that another notch. We descended into
the valley. Very hot. As we had no idea how far
back the donkeys might be, Cuninghame took a twist
to the right, and shortly whistled us down to him. At
the foot of the valley stood a single shady tree, with
big smooth trunk, great buttressed roots, broad leaves,
and a small fruit. It was big limbed and broad, and
just beyond it was a waterhole of mud and little pools
forty or fifty feet broad. This was enclosed with a
low thorn boifia, and at a dozen openings left for the
purpose tall saplings had been planted and bent over
by means of well-made native sisal rope. Buried
loops were to be sprung by the animals that entered.
What they could be we could not imagine as there were
no signs of game — probably stray reedbuck. However,
it was encouraging to find this first sign of life in the
new country. It must be inhabited by somebody, even
though they might be only wild Wanderobo hunters.
In the tree was a beehive made of a section of a hollow
log bound all round with faggot-like sticks. Why the
latter we were unable to find out. They seemed to
subserve no useful purpose, but may have been of
religious significance.

We sprung all the snares, and made camp beneath
the tree. In the afternoon Cuninghame and I made a
very high, hot climb through the second notch; found
it led nowhere; cast about; and finally came on a long
hogsback that led gently down two miles to end abruptly.

50 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

We looked straight down on another scrub-grown valley
with some queer rounded rock outcrops a hundred feet
or so in height. The descent was sheer, but it was
the only way to a lower elevation so we figured out
zigzags. Over opposite lay another big black range,
but around its lower end our river broke through a
notch. We figured we would either go through the
notch or climb the range as the case might be; and so
returned to camp pretty tired. Cheered by the sight
of a dozen kongoni and three Chanler's reedbuck atop
the hogsback. Missed a shot at one of the latter as
he flew.

Five hours' march, four hours' scout; 6i miles; eleva-
tion, 5,900; morning, 48; noon, 78; night, 54.

July 23. — Start at 6:40. We got down the length
of the hogsback all right, but the descent of the zigzags
proved to be a terror for men, and especially for don-
keys. The last of Dowdi's did not get in until 6 :oo p. m. !
Once down, we crossed the elevated little valley by the
rocks, and found ourselves in face of another lesser
drop. Thornbush very bad, so that we moved a
hundred feet at a time and our clothes and skin suffered.
For a long time it seemed that we were "bushed," but
at last I found a rhino trail down. It was very thorny
and overgrown. The men dropped their packs and
set to work with pangas and axes and finally cleared a
trail.

Cuninghame and I then pushed ahead. We de-

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 51

scended the hill, crossed a ravine, and soon found our-
selves on the banks of a fine river. A shady thicket
and great trees ran alongside, elephant grass reached
ten feet above our heads. We followed the rhino trails
downstream, and after some search discovered a ford.
Here we sat down and took a rest.

After consultation Cuninghame remained to place
camp and cross the animals while I pushed ahead as
rapidly as possible to scout out a way through the scrub
to the end of the range, and to find out whether we could
follow the river or would have to make another climb.

I soon discovered difficulties : in the first place, to get
a feasible path through the terrific jungle of thorn and
scrub, and, in the second place, to dodge rhinos. The
valley was about five miles by three, grown ten feet
high by a thorny jungle, and literally infested by the
beasts. Their broad, well-beaten trails went every-
where. These were a help, but there was always a
doubt as to whether their rightful owners might not
want to use them. I went along singing at the top of my
voice all the songs I knew, in spite of the fact that the
close heat of the thicket and the powerful sun were not
conducive to vocals. After about a mile of this a huge
bulk reared itself not over fifteen yards ahead, snorted,
and rushed down the trail toward me. I literally could
not force myself a foot'into the wall of thorns, so brought
the Springfield into action and fired at its head. The
beast stopped five yards from me, and turned square

52 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

across the trail. In perhaps ten seconds he showed
signs of swinging back. I, who was much on the alert
for any move, gave him one in the shoulder. This
decided him . He turned away around and disappeared .

After a decent interval I followed him. At last I
reached the point where the range met the river. A
cliff only twenty feet across reaching down to deep
water seemed to bar the route, though the approach
on both sides was good. It was impossible to ford.

Rested ten minutes, and returned to camp, blazing
a way with my hunting knife as I went. Saw one
bushbuck, the only game. Got in at sundown, and
drank one quart of tea all at once. Quite weary.
Last February I broke my leg badly, and the hard
work is beginning to bother it.

During the evening two rhinos tried to enter camp,
but we scared them off with our Colt's and firebrands.

March six hours; 8 miles; scout, five hours; eleva-
tion, 4,200; morning, 48; noon, 86; night, 68.

July 24. — Marched by my blazes to bend of river.
Here to our delight we found a monkey trail leading up
the face of the cliff and around a sort of concealed
ledge. A half hour's work widened it so we could lead
the animals one at a time around the forty feet of
cliffs.

On the other side we found ourselves in a wide canon
hemmed in by low and diminishing hills, and thickly
grown in the bottoms with dense thorn scrub. The

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 53

river wound from side to side leaving a flat, first to right,
then to left. This meant finding a ford every mile or so,
and getting the donkeys through it — no small task, as
they remembered their former experience and did not
care for water at all, at all ! We were alternately wet
to the waist and baked by the furnace heat. When
we had had enough we camped in the scrub.

Five hours thirty-five minutes; 6 miles; elevation,
3,800; morning, 50; noon, 90; night, 58.

July 25. — Resumed the struggle without the slightest
idea of how much longer we were to keep at it. There
were no especial indications that the character of the
country would change. We kept bucking thornbush
across the flats until we were forced by the bend of the
stream to ford; then we repeated the performance on
the other side. This kept up for four hours. Then
at one of the bends, instead of the usual f ordable shallow
rapids, we found a crude dam made of woven saplings
and earth. First signs of settled human habitation on
this side of the mountains.

A friendly native — the first human being in the New
Country — appeared on the opposite side and shouted
at us. Since he seemed to know of no way of crossing
to his side, I struck off to the left, soon found a rhino
trail along the hills, and signalled the men to come on.
Across the river I saw from my elevation bananas and
other signs of cultivation. Without waiting for the
safari, I pushed on ahead, blazing a way. It was hard,

54 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

exasperating, hot work. About two miles down I
struggled through a particularly dense thicket — and
came out plop! on an old bean field and easy walking!
The mountains had let go of us at last !

It certainly felt good to stride out upright and un-
impeded by thorns or hills or both. We went down
the old bean field, crossed the river again, and struck
across another bean field. High up on the side of the
mountain we finally made out a native village; its
scattered roofs so much like the gray rocks about them
that for a long time none of us distinguished them.
Here an old man met us, and signalled us to follow him.
He turned at right angles through the field out onto a
broad path, led us past a second dam, and up to a little
open patch among the scrub. Here were some trees.
He seemed to think that a good place for us to camp.
We agreed with him; in the first place, because we were
tired, and, in the second place, because we wanted to
get into communication with his people.

A half hour's work cleared us a shady room in the
thicket, surrounded by a thorn homa. By this time a
dozen savages were in camp. They call themselves the
Wasonzi and are unacquainted with whites. They
resemble the Kikuyus somewhat, only they are better
built, wear a negligent skin around the shoulder, and
are armed exclusively with bows and arrows and short
swords. Their expression is alert and intelligent, and
they are most eager to be friendly and answer all our

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THE WASONZI VILLAGE NEAR OL-SAMBU. AT A \ ERV MIUKl inSTANCE

THE HUTS RESEMBLE BOULDERS

SEE PAOE 54

WASONZI HUT WITH FORTIFIED DOORWAY

GUIDES FROM THE WASONZI

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 55

questions. Their ear ornaments are cylinders of red
clay, polished, in which have been imbedded scraps of
bright wire. The whole is moulded around the lower
periphery of the stretched lobe, and so can never be re-
moved without breaking. The bows are short and
powerful, the arrows broadly headed, andwiththe poison
smeared in back of the head. They told us they ap-
proached game by feeding flocks of sheep and goats
toward the quarry, accompanying the flocks on aU fours.
Their dams they use for irrigation; and later we found
an elaborate S3^stem of checks and ditches with wicker
and earth gates. In their fields they raise rape, beans,
and tobacco beside a sort of sweet potato and a veg-
etable somewhat like squash. In times past they have
been victims of slave raiders from Tabora and Ikoma,
and have been much attacked by the Masai ; hence they
build high up the mountain whence they descend to
their fields, and whither every drop of water is carried
in gourds!

We told them slave days were over and the Masai
moved away; why did not they build now in a more
convenient place? They shook their heads. After
all, what is ten years of peace after two hundred of
war?

There is another village three days to the south; and
one four hours to the west ; that is the whole remnant of
the tribe.

We engaged two to guide us to Lake Natron at an

56 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

equivalent of two rupees (66 cents) each (about ten
days in all).

Also we sent a present of a blanket to the chief with
a request that he call to see us. All this through
M 'ganga who talks their tongue.

We did a little trading with beads and snufif for vege-
tables. Gillette blades don 't go here.* As we wanted
meat badly, our guides then took us a long hike over
the hills to a long slope of grass and scattered bush
where we saw one lonesome little herd of kongoni, one
of zebra, and a single duiker. These beasts departed the
very instant they caught sight of us at 300 or 400 yards,
and never even turned back to look. So we are still
meatless.

M 'ganga and two of the men have fever; the first
fever of the trip.

Five hours twenty minutes; 4J miles; morning, 53;
noon, 92; night, 68.

* Old Gillette razor blades are in some places greatly in demand. They
are inserted in cleft sticks and used for shaving the head. This is not to be
wondered at when one considers that a common implement for that pur-
pose is a bit of broken glass!

CHAPTER V

July 26. — We here left all the donkeys, our own and
Vanderweyer's (together with our surplus effects), in
homa until our return from Natron, and started off with
men only. The guides were on time at 6 :oo, and before
we had gone a mile three others had joined us. One
beautiful little savage had in our honour donned a
horrible greasy old patched khaki suit eight sizes too
large for him. He had been once to Moschi, he proudly
explained. He certainly looked like a scarecrow. The
other three, they told us, would not expect wages but
would go along for meat.

We rode our mules for two hours then sent them back.
This, although we did not know it, was our last ride
on those unfortunate animals. In all we have used
the mules only about twenty-five miles. The rest of
the time the country has been too rough, or we have
had to scout afoot.

Marched along the base of high mountains, to the
left, on a plateau of high grass and thin scrub. Far to
the south, over the edge of the world, we could see
immense craters. They were forty or fifty miles away
and glittered as though with snow, each rising by itself
from the plain.

58 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

At the end of ten miles we approached the edge of the
escarpment, and the last water before the plunge.
Therefore, I turned off to see if it were possible to land
any meat. It had been in the dark ages past since
either we or the men had had any, and one cannot work
long, even under the equator, for ten or twelve hours
a day without meat and plenty of it.

All the game here was very wild. It saw us a long
way off and immediately ran without waiting to stare
for an instant as does even the wildest game anywhere
else. We finally hit on the reason: The Wasonzi are
great on snares for small stuff, and probably every head
of large game in the district has at one time or another
been caught and had to kick out of one of these snares.
That was no great job, of course, but it made them very
distrustful.

At last I took a desperate chance at a zebra just
topping a ridge 450 to 500 yards away and hit him!
Lost him for the time being, but on returning from a
search got, by chance, the herd so fixed that they had
to run past, between me and a rocky butte 100 yards
away. How they did run, like runaway horses! I
saw my wounded beast and hit him again. He slowed,
so turned my attention from him and landed a second
zebra in the ribs. Had to aim ahead twice the length
of the animals. Followed them up and killed both
with four more shots, of which one was a miss. Just
then blundered on a kongoni that had not expected me

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 59

and quickly downed him with a shoulder shot at 160
yards before he made off. Left a savage at each carcass
hunted up camp, and sent out men for the meat. No
one can imagine what a godsend those three beasts were
to us at that time. We had plenty of potio and plain
groceries, of course, but had been almost completely
out of meat for some time. Under the hard work we
were beginning to feel it. Also we wanted desperately
to make our reputation as good providers with the
savages. For some time we have had a very silent,
not to say glum, camp in the evenings. To-night racks
are up drying meat, spits are up roasting it, pots bubble,
bright little fires gleam, and a continuous chanting
arises.

This happy kalele, which I had not the heart to stop,
and the hot night, kept me awake for an hour. Sud-
denly I heard a scurrying outside and agonized calls
for"AU! Ah!"

''Nini," says Ali.

" Call the bwana, a rhinoceros is very near and coming
into camp!"

Get the point? Even a rhino attack was not enough
to get them to overstep etiquette and call the bwana
themselves! I hopped out with a Colt's. Once beyond
the dazzle of the fire I could make out the great black
mass advancing steadily and about tw^enty-five yards
away. I fired over its head. The flash and noise
turned it. Another shot sent it crashing away.

6o THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

Elevation, 4,250; four hours thirty minutes; 10 j
miles; morning, 59; noon, 80; night, 70.

July 27. — An hour took us to the edge of the escarp-
ment, and we looked almost straight down 2,300 feet
to the broad lower expanse in which lay Natron. It
extended farther than we could see to the south. Its
upper end was guarded by two great lava mountains
(about eight miles apart) with faces that ran almost
sheer for more than 4,000 feet. The upper flats for
miles and miles shimmered white with soda. A green
line marked the meanderings of the N'gouramani, and
the nearer flats were covered with scrub. The distance
melted into illimitable plains. To our right was a deep-
riven canon to the edge of which our guides led us for
a look.

After admiring the grandeurs and blue distances of
this very impressive scenery we commenced the descent.
It was by way of a very steep little spur jutting from
the main escarpment, and went almost straight down
by a series of zigzags. Two rhinos across a ravine
stared at us and we at them. We were each safe from
the other. Hard descent for men. Everybody happy,
however, because carrying meat. The guides, Cuning-
hame, myself, and gunbearers pushed ahead. I have,
to the great delight of everybody, introduced the ex-
pedient of blazing trails, in order to keep various divi-
sions in touch. They knew nothing of it before.

Sweltering hot, and sun very strong. In the lower

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 6i

scrub it was fearful. We debouched on the flat at ten
o'clock. Very glad to ease our knees. Marched an
hour longer and came at eleven o'clock to an ordinary
mudpuddle in an opening of the scrub. The guide
said it was the only water in that part of the country.
Many zebra, wildebeeste, and impalla, and hundreds of
game and other birds were here gathered. Since we
must either camp here or push on to the N'gouramani,
Cuninghame and I crawled under the shade of a bush
to await the safari.

One sort of small brown bird with a very long tail were
so abundant that when they flew they roared like the
wind, and the aggregate weight of them actually bent
over a fair-sized sapling. This is literal.

When the safari arrived we tackled the mudpuddle.
First, we dug a ditch and drained off all the foul water.
Then we extended the hole. This accomplished,
MembaSasa planted a staff in the middle tied peculiarly
with wisps of grass — a sort of magic, in which, appar-
ently, everybody firmly believed. In a little while
the hole began to fill again. Overjoyed with this indi-
cation that it was a real spring and not merely a rain
puddle, we pitched camp.

After lunch and a rest Cuninghame and I scouted in
different directions. I wounded an impalla which got
away; the second beast to escape. Saw many impalla,
zebra, wildebeeste, waterbuck, Grant's gazelle, dik-dik,
and game birds. Also an ostrich nest with two eggs.

62 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

Wandered widely, always in the thorn scrub, and to-
ward evening came out on coarse grass savannahs near
the head of the lake ; and there enjoyed some marvellous
mirage effects on game, on the flat, and on distant
mountains. Here fed a herd of zebra one of which I
killed at 256 yards to the huge delight of the natives.
They use every scrap of a beast, even to the sinews for
bowstrings, and were much chagrined that I would not
shoot another before the herd got out of range. They
are a cheerful, friendly lot. In camp, Cuninghame
reported that he had gone out on the flat, and had there
found buffalo tracks. We decided to cross the head
of the lake to where the N'gouramani empties into it
in the hopes of one of the beasts.

This evening the little fires down the length of our
tiny glade, the light reflected from the leaves, were very
fine.

Five hours; 9 J miles; elevation, 1,950; morning, 63;
noon, 93; night, 83.

July 28. — Up at daylight. Leaving the bulk of our
goods and some of the men, we marched across the soda
flats at the head of the lake. The whole surface looked
like a map of the moon, mountains, craters, queer knife-
edged peaks, all in a miniature of four inches high.
When we stepped on them they collapsed with a loud
crackling. Distances were very deceitful. An object
might be a mile away or ten yards, and you could not
tell what it was. A herd of zebra looked like an orange

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 63

grove until we came close. But the most wonderful
sight — one of the most wonderful I have ever seen —
was that furnished by a huge flock of flamingoes.
There must have been thousands upon thousands of
them. When we first saw them, they were far in the
distance and flying. We took them for a rosy sunrise
cloud. They looked just like that : one of those cotton-
wool clouds — the cotton-wool that comes in jewellers'
boxes. We did not find out our mistake for some few
minutes. Then the cloud miraculously dropped to the
edge of the water, and the shore turned pink for miles.
This is not an argument for protective coloration.
There is a lot more in that theory than its sternest
critics seem ready to admit; but much less than its
most violent partisans claim. Any feeder on flamingoes
(what does feed on flamingoes, by the way?) in our
position might, as we did, temporarily mistake them for
a pink cloud. But any carnivore or raptore at a closer
range could not possibly do so; nor could he long con-
tinue to do so even from where we stood. And a
carnivore or raptore that did not stir around enough to
discover in a very short time what that pink cloud was
composed of would deserve to starve. It is inconceiv-
able nonsense to believe that several hundred thousand
large birds, in an open country, could long remain un-
discovered, whatever their coloration. I have seen it
stated in support of the extreme theory of protective
coloration that flamingoes are night feeders. That

64 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

may or may not be true of the species in general. But
I personally know of some hundreds of thousands that
do their feeding daytimes!

In identically the same way a pure white cloud hang-
ing in the sky proved to be snow geese. Another was
of white peUcans.

By and by we came to a papyrus marsh in the water
along the edge of which were countless hordes of geese,
ducks, waders, and many sorts of ibis, plover, egrets,
etc. Never have I seen so many and so varied water-
fowl. They were quite tame and did not take wing
untU we were less than forty yards away. Over them
wheeled a cloud of insect-catching birds. And stiU
higher soared grandly the hawks and eagles and carrion
eaters.

A great deal of game comes here for salt — wildebeeste,
ostrich, zebra, and many giraffe. We saw considerable;
but were especially impressed by the abundance of
spoor.

We wanted to get over to an island around which the
N'gouramani divided, and we slopped about for an
hour trying to find a ford. The river had here over-
flowed for a quarter of a mile, and the channel was
discoverable only when one fell into it. Finally we
made passage a Httle over waist deep and camped on
our island. This was a barren piece of land about
four miles long by a hah mile wide. No shelter. Put
our blankets over the tents for additional shade.

SODA INCRUSTATIONS AT THE HEAD OE LAKE NATRON

HEAD SHAVING BV THE PORTERS
SEE PAGE 70

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 65

About three went scouting for buffalo. Cuninghame
took one side of the island and I the other. After about
a mile I jumped a bull in the edge of the papyrus and
gave him both barrels at twenty yards. He fell with
a mighty splash. Hunted up Cuninghame and we
waded after him. Very weird, in water nearly to our
waists, surrounded by papyrus that completely shut in
everything but the sky immediately overhead, water-
birds all about, indignant hippos booming to right and
left, very much on the alert. Followed very bloody spoor
for twenty yards, and found the buffalo had toppled
into the swift current of the main river and been swept
away. Great disappointment, as he was very dead.

In evening mosquitoes out by millions. The air was
full of them. We could hardly eat. Some of the boys
built platforms in the leafless trees and slept aloft.
Others dug holes.

Four hours; 6 J miles; elevation, 1,900; morning, 68;
noon, 95; night, 83.

July 29. — Up and out before daybreak. Saw three
buffs on edge of swamp across the river, and slopped
after them. We got close but could not see them on
account of high reeds. This would be a good place to
hunt buffalo in drier season, but now that the river is in
flood it is hopeless. It was interesting to see the water-
fowl, however, and our rosy cloud of flamingoes was
again in the sky. Heard many lions.

Decided this was no good, so packed up for return.

66 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

On the flat I made two very long shots and killed two
wildebeeste of the new species described by Heller and
Roosevelt, one at 343 yards (shoulder, dead in tracks),
and the other alongside of him (343). This last moved
off very slowly, and I knocked her down, after one miss,
with a shoulder shot at 421 yards.

The safari headed directly back for our waterhole, but
I made a circuit through the scrub in the course of which
I missed an impalla at 90 yards.

In the afternoon I went out a half mile and killed
some guinea fowl. To-night the boys all slept up trees
on account of mosquitoes. In the night one fell out of
bed ! Three more Wasonzi showed up in hope of meat.

Morning, 61; noon, 91; night, 69.

July 30. — We now decided to put in our time before
the German customs official should show up on August
8th by going up river a distance in search of buffalo.
Accordingly we took a light outfit and put in a very
hard day's march through stifling scrub and all up-
hill. Very thorny and we had difficulty at times in
picking a way. We thought it hot, but I overheard
one porter saying to another, "Fine weather; just like
Mombasa." Saw a number of rhinos and baboons.
Just before the day's end, when everybody was feel-
ing pretty tired and subdued, men ahead began to
jump aside, dropping loads. Thought it was a rhino,
but immediately saw a small animal tearing directly
down the middle of the trail toward me. I had just

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 67

time to leap aside. So close did it pass to me that it
caught my rifle sling and broke it ! Memba Sasa, who
had not seen the thing, was hit square in his tummy
and knocked flying, falling heavily. The beast was a
bushbuck doe, frantic with terror, apparently running
with both eyes shut!

At last we arrived at a viUage of the N'gouramani.
These dwell under the escarpment, keep goats, and live
in separate bomas. They resemble the Wasonzi, but
are poor and few in numbers, probably the last rem-
nant of a tribe. We camped thankfully under a wide
tree completely overgrown by a thick vine so dense it
was like an umbrella.

At supper time came in the hunter of the village.
After a long parley we agreed with him that if we got a
buffalo we would pay him one blanket and five rupees.
He was a very old and skinny man, and we soon dis-
covered that, outside the fact that he knew where the
buffalo were, he was beyond his usefulness as a hunter.
I could not help but be sorry for the poor old thing,
and speculate on his latter end; and was glad he made
something of us.

Nine and a half hours' hard uphill march; 20^ miles;
elevation, 3,400; morning, 60; noon, 99; night, 65.

July 31. — Our rather scattered dispositions are now
as follows: two men at waterhole living in handa
guarding supplies, eight men on the road to the donkey
boma to bring up polio, one man sick and three donkey

68 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

men at the homa near the village, the rest with us.
Consequently we are travelling with only bare necessi-
ties.

Our old N 'gouramani was promptly on hand, so we
were off at sunrise. He led us by a rocky trail down
a series of steps and over a 600-foot escarpment back
to the river level. On the way flushed hundreds grouse.
The cliffs were occupied by hordes of baboons that
came out and barked at us.

We are now so used to heat that our morning tem-
perature of sixty degrees seems chilly! Saw some
fresh tracks of greater kudu; and in a tree a huge
structure five feet high by three broad, pear-shaped,
with a wide hole at the top. I thought it was some sort
of a hunter 's blind, but Memba Sasa says it is the nest
of the crested ibis!

Camped among thin thorn trees. Stony underfoot,
and brown, but alongside is a crystal clear stream flow-
ing over rocks. In the afternoon our old guide led us
an hour through the thorn to the border of a long wet
marsh surrounded by higher ground. He sneaked
along the edge of this looking for buffalo. FinaUy
he had us lie down in a thicket until near dusk. The
idea was to wait untfl the buffalo came out in the
marsh to feed, but there would have to be a thou-
sand thousand of them or else mighty good luck to bring
them out at exactly our spot !

On his way across a little wet arm he stooped over,

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 69

without bending his knees, and drank; which shows he
was a limber old gentleman after all!

We lay in the thicket for an hour. A rhino came and
sniffed at us ten yards away, but decided to depart. I
had sufficient amusement watching the various birds.
Of course nothing happened. On the way home, as we
needed meat badly, I killed an impalla buck at 210
yards with the .465 — a good deal like taking a club to a
butterfly.

Two hours twenty minutes; 5 J miles; elevation,
2,000; morning, 60; noon, 86; night, 66.

August I. — Having no faith whatever in the old
gentleman's system, we resolved to hunt buffalo our
own way, viz. : search for fresh spoor and then follow it
until something happened. Accordingly we returned
to the swamp, waded it, and begun to cast about on the
other side. By 7 130 we had found tracks of a bull, and
for two hours we puzzled along them. The ground
was hard and confused with all sorts of other tracks
new and old. The men were often at fault, and by
9 130 we had followed the brute only about half a mile.
The spoor led across a small opening, through a fringe
of sparse brush, and apparently to a distant thicket.
Eleven giraffe ambled across in front of us in single
file. The spoor finally led past a dark ant heap under
an isolated small tree in high grass. When only thirty
yards from the ant heap, I saw it heave slightly and
suddenly recognized it as the curve of the buffalo's

70 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

back. I promptly planted a .465 where the shoulder
ought to be. The beast leaped to his feet and rushed
in our direction. My second barrel in the chest
turned him. Cuninghame gave him both barrels in
the side, and he came down within fifty yards. An-
other in the spine finished him. He was a good big
one, five feet two inches at shoulder, and eight feet
eleven inches in straight line, as he lay, from nose to
rump. We ordered the old savage to rustle to camp
after men, but he told us earnestly that he was very
old and very tired. This was true; we had not realized
that he had been doing pretty strenuous work for so
aged a man. Therefore we left him to sit by the
bufi'alo, sent Sanguiki to camp for men, and went
on.

Hunted hard for eight hours more, always on fresh
spoor, stooping double in hot thickets, crawling,
scratched by thorns, and generally working hard. Had
lunch under a shady bush where a whole lot of little
monkeys scouted us thoroughly. On the way home I
killed another impalla with the .465 (carry only heavy
guns after buff) at 90 yards.

In camp we found everybody with heads freshly
shaved in the most marvellous designs. Collected
some of the most fantastic for a picture. M'ganga's
tent accidently burned up. He is most heartily
ashamed ! Potio men back, accompanied by nine more
Wasonzi after meat. Our fame as providers is spread-

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 71

ing. Every one promptly departed for the buffalo,
where they made fires and stayed all night.

Ten hours' hunting; morning, 66; noon, 95; night, 74.

August 2, — Spoored buffalo all day without result,
except to trail them into impossible places. By noon
we had reached the N 'gouramani River, here a big wide
rushing stream with a forest strip. It was very cool and
pleasant under the trees. Thousands of game birds
everywhere on this grassy thornbrush flat. Jumped
a giraffe at close range, and was much amused at the
rear view. He held his tail stiffly at an affected and
rakish angle to one side for about a dozen steps, then
swish! he flopped it over to the other side for about the
same length of time.

On the way home I dropped a young Robertsi buck
at 120 yards, and a doe for the head (and meat) at
167. Saw two leopards together, but did not get a
shot. Sun very powerful.

In camp we found the third mediocre batch of bread
in four days. Had up the cook and cut his wages in
half. Have not had a bad lot since (this is written
August 23rd.).

Morning, 67; noon, 95; night, 78.

August 3. — Having scouted this country fairly well,
and the time drawing near when we were to meet the
German customs officials, we started back for the
waterhole along the base of the escarpment, intending
to camp about halfway and look over the country.

72 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

For some distance we had really fine marching, which
was quite a novelty and relief, over low rolling swells,
with wide grass openings, and long parklike swales in
which fed considerable game. Saw a great many cow
eland (no bulls), Robertsi, zebra, kongoni, one wilde-
beeste, a serval cat, and many dik-dik. After a time
we came to a long dry soda arm of the lake, which we
crossed; plunged into scrub; climbed over a hill; and
dropped down into one of the loveliest spots I have
seen in Africa. A crystal stream running over peb-
bles; a flat terrace; then a single row of enormous,
wide-spreading trees as though planted; and from be-
neath their low-flung branches sight of a verdant hill,
and distant tiny blue glimpses of a miniature landscape
far away.

"This is going to be the pleasantest camp we have
ever had," said we, and sat down to eat lunch before
the safari should come.

But with the safari came two lovely naked savages
with a letter in a cleft stick. Said letter proved to be
from the German governor. It absolved us from meet-
ing a customs officer August 8th, and requested us to
send a list of dutiable articles. This was very good of
him; also it saved his officer a hard march into an un-
known country. However, it altered the situation.
No need to hang around this country until August
8th. We resolved to hike back as soon as we could to
the Wasonzi village, pick up our donkeys, and pro-

H "A

H S ;:

cfi OS "^

H P W

M f^ O

W o

W Q

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 73

ceed eastward into our Unknown Land. By continuing
on to the waterhole, the long march would save us a
day. Accordingly, after a rest we abandoned our
beautiful camp and went on.

A half-hour out ran across giraffe. Colburn wants
one, for which he pays special license, and this was the
very last chance before entering German territor}'.
There were in the herd a dozen smaller ones and one
large one, apparently bull and cows. Sent Memba
Sasa sneaking about for a point of vantage, and he
reported the big one a male. At this moment they be-
came aware of us and started to run. It was now or
never, so I opened fire. Hit, high shoulder, running at
200 yards with the Springfield. It went thirty yards
and fell dead. It proved to be a very large cow!
There were no bulls at all, and Memba Sasa 's zeal had
outrun his judgment. We were all very' sorry for
this, but took the trophy — and left a dozen or so de-
lighted Wasonzi.

At the waterhole we found our bo}'S had been living
high on guinea fowl they had snared.

Eight hours; 16 miles; morning, 66; noon, 100;
night, 8s-

CHAPTER VI

August 4. — Out and off before daylight to get the
2,300 feet of straight-up escarpment behind us before
it should get too hot. Hard climb, and we sure per-
spired some! Every Wasonzi was draped with spoils.
Don't suppose they have ever before struck, or ever will
again strike, such luck — meat, hides, sinews, fat! They
could hardly navigate.

Made our rhino camp at the top in four and one half
hours. The afternoon Cuninghame and I spent in pre-
paring our papers for the Government in re customs,
and in constructing a surveyor 's protractor. We made
an excellent one which we have used successfully since.
In its construction we employed a mica from the can-
dle lantern, a pair of scissors (as compasses), a darn-
ing needle, an envelope, the thermometer slide, steel
tape, and a pocket compass. The air seems cool and
grateful at this altitude.

Morning, 73; noon, 80; night, 66.

August 5. — Started on a cool day for a fine march
back to the Wasonzi. A mile or so from camp I killed
two kongonis, by a right and left off-hand at 237 yards,
dead in their tracks. The Wasonzi took charge, as
these were intended as a final gift. A Httle farther on

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 75

we heard a movement in a small patch of brush next a
spring. Suspecting buffalo I ran around the other side
just in time to meet a sleek black rhino that came out
about twenty yards away.

Everything was lovely and happy, but we were
destined to a setback. Two hours out we met Suli-
mani in full regaha, musket, bandolier, and all, ac-
companied by a Wasonzi guide. He had started out
to hunt us up, if it took a week, and was dehghted that
his errand was cut so short.

He reported that two of the donkeys had died, "and
all the rest are sick."

This was a facer. Much perturbed, we hurried on.
Arrived at the base camp we found one donkey dead,
two on the point of expiring, and five more of ours and
six of Vanderweyer's evidently out of sorts. Both mules
had symptoms of fly.*

We called in from pasture all survivors, packed
them, and hastily dispatched them off across the hills
to N'digadigu, the next Wasonzi village, hoping thus
to get them out of the fly belt. Then I put bullets
through the brains of the two.

In the afternoon Cuninghame and I paid a visit to
the village on the hill. There was a long, weU-made

* To determine if a beast is fly struck, take a fold of its neck skin between
your thumb and finger. If it smtxiths out immediately on being released,
the beast is all right. If, however, it stands out in a ridge, without elas-
ticity, and only slowly subsides, your animal is a goner. He may last six
days or six months, but eventually he is doomed. He will die next time
hfi gets wet or chilled.

76 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

trail up the hill between flowering aloes, euphorbia, and
dense briars and thorn. First it climbed a steep rocky
escarpment, then it ran perfectly straight and open for
three quarters of a mile. Because of the thorny
thicket no enemy could have progressed an inch ex-
cept on this road, which was visible and open for its
whole length. Next we came to a little round stock-
ade of heavy timbers, built square across the road,
perhaps ten feet in diameter. It had doorways lead-
ing in both directions, but timbers lay at hand by
which these openings could be closed. Then after
another interval we began to come to the houses,
perched all over the side hill. Even near at hand
their resemblance to the big gray boulders was most
deceiving, and at i8o yards Cuninghame and I had to
guess which was which. They proved to be circular,
thatched with gray grass in rounded roofs. Each en-
trance was fortified in miniature just like the gate.

We bent double and entered the first one. It was
very dark and warm, but after our eyes had become
accustomed to the dimness we found we were calling
on a young lady, stark naked except for ornaments,
squatted before a tiny glow of coals over which she was
drying tobacco, Beds of skins were suspended at
right and left. New skin garments hung in the apex,
together with bundles of provisions, skins of beasts,
gourds, and such treasures. She seemed not at all
disturbed, and we nodded cheerfully and said a-a-a-a

TRE SULTAN OF THE WASONZI — " THE OLDEST MAN I EVER SAW "
SEE PAGE 73

FORTIFIED GATE BELOW THE WASONZI VILLAGE
SEE PAGE 76

THK. PRIME MINISTER OF THE WASONZI
SEE PAGE 77

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 77

in friendly fashion. Then we crawled out and con-
tinued our tour.

Some of the wealthier houses had little bomas about
them. All had pear-shaped jet-black masses of some
substance that looked like asphalt drying in the sun;
these we ascertained to be manufactured tobacco. Met
and grinned at many gaudUy painted warriors and
old men. Coveys of naked children scrambled like
goats up the mountainside ahead of us, and perched
on crags to gaze down at us. Everybody was most
friendly.

Finally we inquired for the chief and were led dowTi
to a naked old fellow sitting on a piece of skin. He ^vas
the most ancient piece of humanity I have ever beheld,
a mere skeleton, his joints twice the size of his limbs,
his skin a wTinkled parchment, his eyes bleared. We
stood and stared at him, but he never looked up.

"Nothing to do here," said Cuninghame, but had
Sanguiki address him in Masai.

The skeleton rattled and a slow, deliberate, power-
ful voice issued from it.

*'I am chief not only of this village," Sanguiki
translated, *'but of another village far away there, and
another great village, nearer, there. I am a great
chief."

By this time three younger old men, evidently prime
ministers, came up, accompanied by a half-dozen war-
riors. One had a delightfully quizzical humorous

78 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

face, and all had a look of great intelligence. With
them we chatted for some time. We motioned to San-
guiki to give the old chief a paper of snuff we had
brought as a present. The old fellow mistook us, and
helped himself to an enormous pinch.

"It is yours, all yours," we told him.

As soon as he understood this, he hastily returned
to the packet the large pinch and took for immediate
use only a very little one.

*'He must be Scotch," laughed Cuninghame.

We left him, carrying away the impression of a very
old man sitting in the sun.

On our way down the trail we met the water safari,
a long string of women and children carrying in-
numerable gourds, by means of which the whole
village is supplied from the stream, a toilsome mile
away. Also we met one of our guides returning laden
with spoils from the two kongonis I had killed. He
had with him an old man with a spear, a young
warrior, and a toto. We passed the time of day, and
asked him if the toto was his.

He laid his hand on the warrior's shoulder. ''This
is my toto,^^ said he, "the little one is his." We were
about to move on when the old man seized my hand
and placed it on the guide's arm, at the same time
pointing to his own breast. Thus four generations
were returning laden with the white man's bounty.
The Wasonzi are a friendly, pleasant, human people.

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 79

M'ganga to his joy discovers that the askari who
brought us the letter is his brother-in-law. Ramadan
begins, and all our good Moslems must abstain food
and drink from sunrise to sunset.

August 6. — Started off at 6 130 over a high rocky pass
with good trail through the hills to southwest. Shortly
we looked out over a tumbled valley of hills with an-
other high rampart five or six miles away. Made out
through our glasses the village of N'digadigu perched
high, like the other. It was five or six times the size of
Olsambu, and the fertile vaUey was cultivated far and
wide. On the slope I killed a kongoni for meat with
two shots at 210 and 260. Crossed a flowing stream
and came to a fine upsloping grass and cultivated land
with water singing dowTi innumerable winding ditches,
and the finest single big trees, spaced here and there,
I have ever seen. They are very green, with wide
leaves, thick great branches spreading far, spacious
domes, and thick, grateful shade. Flowering aloes were
all about, and groves of strange twisted or stately
euphorbias about some of which python-like vines
were doing their choking best. Paths ran in all di-
rections. We made several false starts, once landing
at the fortified gate of the village, but at last found our
donkeys camped near the askari post. This had been
constructed under one of the aforementioned big trees,
with a heav>' twisted outside boma, a ditch and pali-
sades. Two Monumwezi askaris occupied it. We

8o THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

found the ground under another big tree swept clean
and bare, and three grass bandas ready for us. We
pitched our tents, the men theirs, the donkeys were
already bomaed — and we utilized only half the space
under that great tree ! It was 64 feet in circumference,
and its branches extended 120 yards.

We sent back men to the last camp with instruc-
tions to lie there to-night, and to-morrow to bring some
potio loads we had to leave there. About 8 130, to our
surprise, they returned with the loads, having made
thirty-one miles in all, over mountains, and over twenty
miles of it loaded !

We had swarms of visitors, with the most impor-
tant of whom we exchanged courtesies. The German
askaris, very trim in their uniforms, reported formally,
saluted, and returned to their fort. Found another
donkey dead.

This night the village held a grand n'goma — for-
tunately at a distance — in honour of the advent of the
first white men since the Germans established the post
in '96. The askaris are changed every two months,
and apparently are never inspected. The Mohamme-
dan month of Ramadan, the month of fasting, is now
on. The good Moslem is supposed to eat between
sunset and sunrise. As we have about fifty per cent, of
that faith in our safari, we called up AH, and asked him
how about it — whether men like porters working hard
had to keep it.

EUPHORBIA FOREST NEAR N DIG.ADIGU

THE BIG TREE NEAR N DIGADIGU

CURIOUS EXAMPLE OF A STRANGLING VINE

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 8i

"Ramadan can be postponed," he told us, "so that
it can be kept any other month."

" How do you do that? "

"By killing a camel," says Ali.

"Are all the men keeping Ramadan?" we asked.

"Only me."

We haven't noted any defunct camels, so don't
know how they work it. Perhaps they consider their
credit good for one camel ; or perhaps, like white men,
they leave their religion outside a wild country.

Four hours; lo^ miles; elevation, 3,900; morning, 68;
noon, 74; night, 68.

August 7.— About two o'clock last night a tremen-
dous burst of talking broke out. This was strictly
against all discipline. When the Hght in bwana '5 tent
goes out all conversation is supposed to cease. This is
a necessary regulation, as otherwise somebody would
be talking all night long. It would not be the same
somebody; he would have finished and gone to sleep.
But by that time another fellow, who had been peace-
fully slumbering, would wake up, feel sociable, punch
the lire and his dearest chum, and start in for a good
comfortable shauri. The native has no regular hours
for eating and sleeping as we have. He goes on the
dog's system.

Therefore, at breakfast, we started an inquiry.
M 'ganga was very apologetic and deprecatory.

"I am very sorry," said M'ganga apologetically.

82 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

*'I hope the bwana will excuse me. A sick donkey fell
through my tent upon my head."

We forgave him ! The sick donkey died.

After a long shauri we found two men who knew the
Masai route through the mountains and engaged them
to pilot Vanderweyer's men and donkeys back to the
homa. With them we sent all our trophies, our riding
saddles, and the syce. We went over Vanderweyer's
beasts very thoroughly for symptoms of fly, and kept
with us six that seemed likely to die anyway.* Dowdi
left us without many regrets, I think.

The men spent the day trading with the savages.
Each brought out an unexpected little store of beads
and entered into bargains for milk, vegetables, fruit,
etc. They have also started the fashion of unravelling
the sleeves of their jerseys, and with the yarn weaving
lanyards. Gave Ali some beads and snuff, and with them
he bought us enough yams, green beans, and a sort of
squash to last us a fortnight. Amused myself wander-
ing around and listening to the bargaining. Overheard
this, delivered in a voice of scorn :

"You might sell that to the white men, but not to
me!"

Then he turned and discovered me at his shoulder !

Some of them have caught quite a lot of fish which
they are drying on sticks. Memba Sasa started a

*A11 six died; and when we returned to Nairobi we found that of those
we sent back, nineteen were lost. Old Sendeu's hostility had cost us dear.

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 83

new lace-work cap. I explained how the Memsahib
had made the others into sewing baskets and he was
much interested. Poked around and took pictures.
Slept three and a half hours. Wrote in log. A high
cold wind came up in afternoon.

Morning, 64; noon, 74; night, 66.

August 8. — Our plan is now to strike westward
until we reach Victoria Nyanza, going out at Shirati,
near the Anglo-German boundary. The first task is to
pass the high barrier of north-and-south mountains
directly before us. Fortunately our Wasonzi friends
know a way through them to a high plateau. This
joins the regular route to Ikoma eventually. Beyond
the edge of the plateau they know nothing. It keeps
going on, indefinitely, "to where the sun sets," they
say; and they want none of it. They are perfectly
willing to take us as far as they know, however, and we
engaged three guides. When we came to pack up,
however, a dozen reported; and one of the German as-
karis, in full regalia, came along, too. He says
he is given seven cartridges a month for meat. After
I had looked his blunderbuss over, I did not wonder
he took every chance to supplement his supply. They
all say there is lots of game up there; and w^e
have assured them in return that we will feed them
all well.

As it is exceedingly difiicult, as well as wasteful of
time, to try to keep our different units together on this

84 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

sort of a march, we divided into three sections : First,
myself, guide, gunbearers as a sort of reconnoissance
party to spy out — and blaze — best routes, hunt for
water, etc. Second, the carriers, with guide, to take
their own gait with the outfit. Third, Cuninghame,
the donkey men, and guide, to get up as best and as far
as they were able. For two miles we followed down
the valley close to the hills. Little naked children
perched on dizzy crags far above us to watch us go. At
every little crossroad squatted a group of women who
arose at our approach and waved and screamed us into
the proper path. We met many people going to their
fields, each carrying a gourd, a leaf packet of provi-
sions, and a smouldering brand with which to start his
fire. They all shouted and screamed at us in their own
language.

Then we turned into a rocky canon with a stream, at
the head of which we accompHshed a terrific straight-
up climb of I, IOC feet. Very hot, bad footing, steep;
a regular heart-breaker. Up at last, this brought us
to rolling mountain tops and low summits a few miles
away to which we rose slowly; and then a wooded shady
pass through the main crest with a beautiful high still
forest and monkeys and traiUng vines and still cool
shadows and breathless leafy gHmpses and bright birds;
next slowly opening out to grassy openings and tree
clumps; and so over an edge to find not a drop on the
other side, but yellow plains undulating away before

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 85

us as far as we could see with single dim blue hills sail-
ing hull down below the horizon.

Just here we began to see game, and I dropped two
kongoni, at 180 yards — after one miss — and at 282.
Also saw a Bohur reedbuck running hard through tall
grass. As my only specimen had been burned up in
Colburn 's fire I tried him, but missed.

Camped near a spring under a lone tree, a mountain
range rising abruptly at our back and the plains before
us. The men came in an hour later, but Cuninghame
did not show up. I thought of that fearful 1,100 foot
chmb !

After a short rest I went out to get more meat* from
some of the game herds feeding in plain sight. The
wind was blowing hard which as always made the
game very wild. This is invariable, and I have tested
the theory perfectly; having been within 50 yards
of the same game on a still day that would not let me
get within 400 yards in a wind. After considerable
stalking I managed to hit a kongoni at 238 yards. He
ran slowly for 300 yards, when I sneaked up and
finished him.

Well satisfied, I returned to camp. About 5:30
Cuninghame came in alone, nearly tired out. He re-
ported a fearful time getting to the top with the don-
keys, and left them encamped at the top of the rise all
in. He was pretty much all in himself.

* We had temporarily a good many men to feed.

86 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

Distant grass fires were wonderfully beautiful after
dark, throwing a glare into the heavens, and running
forward in long wavering lines of flame. Some of it
had crept to the top of the other side of the very dis-
tant hills, where first it showed like a star, and then burst
forth into a beacon. The high wind continued all night.

Six hours; i2| miles; elevation, 6,250; morning, 60;
noon, 69; night, 60.

August 9. — Since we sent back the syce and our
saddles, we are packing the mules. Sent out a relief
expedition to help Dolo and carry donkey loads if
necessary.

Then Cuninghame and I started off together to ex-
plore. For an hour and a half we skirted the base of
the mountain, then crossed a small stream called the
Dorodedi where in some rocks we saw hyrax. From
this point Cuninghame headed straight west across the
plain toward the single lone kopje to scout for water for
the next camp, and I swung down to the left to look
over the game. Stacks of game — Tommy, Robertsi,
kongoni, zebra, ostrich, small antelope, and several
black compact herds of wildebeeste like ink spots in
the distance. A strong fresh wind blew from the east
and everything was wild and suspicious. Very hard to
shoot as the wind was strong enough to swing the gun,
and most of it had to be offhand, on account of the
long grass. Missed a Tommy twice at 120 yards.
Then after an interval missed a first shot at a Robertsi

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 87

at 180, but downed him with the second. Farther on
attempted in vain to stalk wildebeeste,and tried Colby^s
lucky bullet at 300 yards^ but could not hold on. Later
one came toward me as I lay concealed and I dropped
him, after a miss, at 315 yards. Leaving a busy little
group at each carcass, I dipped back toward the river
where I saw many guinea fowl, and a big herd of
mixed game going along single file, among which I dis-
tinguished two topi.* In the smoke of a nearby fire
made out dimly the darting forms of savages with fire-
brands running along and setting fire to the grass.
They disappeared when we came near them. Air full
of smoke and the crackling of flames. Got out of
there. Just as we topped the hill came upon a herd of
kongoni. Put Baxter's lucky bullet low in the shoulder
at no yards, and followed it with two others before he
left his feet, though he did not move twenty yards.
This finished the desired quota for ourselves and Wa-
sonzi, so I returned to camp after seven and a hah hours.

All afternoon the Wasonzi drifted in from N'digadigu
until twenty had arrived. Each was escorted to my tent
by the one who talked Swahili with the statement:

"I have arrived."

'' Make it so, " I rephed, like the captain of a warship.

Then the newcomer joined his friends in the big leafy
bower. After tea I went over and had quite a chat
with them. At sundown some eland appeared and

* This seemed to be the easterly range of these animals.

88 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

looked at camp. I went down in my mosquito boots to
get one, but they skipped out. Came on a kongoni at
no yards, and shot him for our friends, who leave us
to-morrow.

The Wasonzi tell me it was they who set fire to the
grass.

''Thus the rhino are driven off," they say, "and if
there are no rhino the Wanderobo stay away."

At sundown, the men, carrying the donkey loads and
driving the donkeys, came slowly in. The donkeys
and one of the mules died at the top of the hill. Shortly
after Cuninghame came in after a thirty-mile tramp.
Under the little kopje after long search he found a pud-
dle of water "as big as his hat," and by digging
proved it to be a spring.

So that determines the direction and distance of our
next move. This evening the fire has crept up the
other side of a lone mountain peak ten miles away, and
has appeared at the top, so it is like a volcano.

Morning, 50; noon, 66; night, 60.

August 10. — This is a rest day for the donkeys — and
for Cuninghame ! They have both had as much as they
need. Again high gale and cold. Walked with Memba
Sasa to the Dorodedi, with shotgun, and shot four rock
hyraxes, a steinbuck, and some guinea fowl. Out four
and a half hours. Loafed, wrote log, etc. Wasonzi
departed for home.

Morning, 52; noon, 64; night, 62.

CHAPTER VII

August n. — Another donkey died, and our trans-
portation problems have begun in good earnest. We
have now more loads than we can handle, and we do not
yet feel like abandoning anything. Therefore we leave
here twelve loads in charge of two sick men, together
with two more sick donkeys. They are to camp here
until we send for them. This, by our plan, will not be
from the next camp. We shall push forward until we
find a good country.

Marched across rolling open grass plains to the end
of a hill. Not much game in the middle of the plain,
but ran into it again near Cuninghame's spring and
thereabouts. Still blowing hard, and game almost
impossible to approach. Near the hiU I branched ofif
to the left after desired meat, while Cuninghame and
the men went on to make camp. Missed a Robertsi at
about 200 yards; impossible to hold on in this gale, and
have to snap for it when the sights touch. Then after a
long stalk hit a wildebeeste, too far back at 300 yards.
Sat down to watch him. He stopped about a mile
away and lay down. Stalked him carefully and
tried again. Tried sitting down, against a tree, over a
limb to get a decent sight; but brace myself as I might,

90 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

the wind swung the sights across him and ten feet
either side. Snapped at him and gave him a surface
wound. He went two miles and lay down again. Broke
down his foreshoulder at 310 yards. Sent Sanguiki
back for porters and with Memba Sasa took a long
circle to the right. Missed a Tommy at 140 yards.
At last got a game herd outside some small thorn,
through which I crawled on my faxe until I got a shot
at a wildebeeste at 280 yards. Facing me. Hit him
well, and raked him twice as he ran, at (about) 300
yards and (exactly) 340.

While Memba Sasa took care of the meat and went
for men, I continued on to the top of the swell west-
ward, and took compass bearings of the hills so as to
know how to cut a river called the Bololedi, reported to
us by the savages. From this present camp we cut loose
from all native tracks and all native knowledge, and
enter absolutely virgin country.

On the way to camp I picked up a fresh ostrich egg.
It made a huge omelette.

Nine hours. Pretty tired. Safari, i6j miles; I,
about 25; elevation, 6,300; morning, 51 ; noon (?); night,
64.

August 12. — Struck directly across country by com-
pass by the bearings I took yesterday, and after some
hours' march came to the edge of low mountains, or high
hUls, with easy slopes, sparsely grown with small trees,
and valleys between. It had been recently burned ; and

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 91

indeed for the next ten days or so we were never out of
fine charcoal footing which arose in clouds and which
grimed up everything. We were always very dirty,
but it was a good, clean, healthful antiseptic sort
of dirt, and the absence of high grass made shooting
easier.

But here we ran into multitudes of game, game
that had never heard a rifle shot; had probably never
seen a man save possibly a stray Wanderobo. It stood
about in groups and singly, and stared at us in stupefied
astonishment while we went by, never taking the trouble
even to move unless it happened to be to leeward of
us. Never will anybody again get into virgin game
fields like these, for they are the last bit unexplored
and we dropped into the abundance of them so sud-
denly! Wildebeeste, even, stood at 100 yards and let
us pass, and topi and kongoni, zebra. Tommy, eland,
Robertsi, steinbuck, dik-dik merely trotted a few steps,
and stared, and trotted a few steps more, and stared
again. I expected some of them to come up and beg
for peanuts. It was a wonderful sight.

By and by we passed a bold outcrop of rocks, wherein
were klip-springers and reedbuck bounding around,
and began a long gentle downward slope that led to the
river. We arrived at hot noon — to find it a dry wash !

However, we soon discovered a pool in the rocks, and
made camp on a Httle patch of clean grass that had
escaped burning. A donkey died on the road.

92 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

In the afternoon Cuninghame and I took a little
stroU up the wash to see if there was more water above.
A short distance out I downed a Bohur reedbuck at
80 yards (my only specimen was burned). A little
farther on we heard a chorus of zebra barkings, a
regular kalele, persistent, shrill, and numerous. Of
course we went to investigate the cause, supposing
that they must at least be harried by wild dogs. We
found it to be sheer exuberance! From a big water-
hole, up through the scrub, came a mighty procession
of all sorts of animals, seemingly endless, back for feed
after their four o'clock watering. They were biting,
and racing, and plodding soberly along, and kicking
playfully, and all lifting up their voices in sheer joy and
thankfulness. We stood behind a little tree and watched
them through our glasses with the keenest pleasure
until they had all passed on. Then we moved forward
to look at the waterhole.

This Httle piece of country is like the Garden of the
Gods — we wind our way on firm level earth between
domes and monoliths. The water lay deep and cool
in a hoUow with tall green reeds all about. And in the
reeds we saw a fine bull eland!

My first shot raked him at 277 yards. I followed it
immediately with three others as he turned, all in the
shoulder. It was now near dark, and we had no men
with us. Cuninghame hiked to camp for men, and I
first built a protection fire and then set about skinning.

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 93

The entire safari turned out, and we had that excellent
meat and trophy in a jiflfy.

Saw a steinbuck that thought itself hidden, crouched
flat to the ground, with its ears folded neatly forward
like those of a spaniel dog! That is a new one on me!
One of the porters (wandering idly from the camp in the
afternoon) reported to us that he had come across four
roan. We do not know whether or not this is true, but
if so, this country is being pretty good to us!

Six hours' march; morning, 54; noon, 78; night, 64.

August 13. — Out early after roan as reported by the
porter. I put in Harry Ross's lucky bullet, as this
beast ranks after the greater kudu, and with the sable,
as the finest trophy of African antelope, and the most
difficult to get. My only one burned. Sent M'ganga
and Soli to scout forward for water.

About half -hour out saw a wild dog, and a little later
three roan bounded across our front and disappeared
before we could get a shot. While looking after them
I heard Memba Sasa snap his fingers and looked to see
a fourth, behind us, stopped and staring. I could just
see a piece of his forequarters between two trees, and
the rising sun was square behind him. However,
Harry 's bullet was indeed lucky, and I hit in his fore-
shoulder. This was probably enough, but I took no
chances, and landed another quartering from behind as
he staggered forward. This brought him down, but Igave
him a third in the shoulder to hold him. Great triumph !

94 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

Spent the rest of the morning quartering the thin
woods below the hill looking for more. Saw quanti-
ties of the very tame game, and several steinbuck that
thought themselves hidden, and which we passed within
a few yards. At camp found another donkey dead.
Two more died in the course of the afternoon. This
makes thirteen, and one mule. Big thunder storm far
to the north, in the mountains.

Morning, 54; noon, 90; night, 68. Men call this
Campi ya Korongo (Roan Camp).

August 14. — Fine Japanese effect of flat acacias
against the glow of the morning sky. Unfavourable
reports from M'ganga as to water ahead, so cut back
in the hills to the north, between a big round mountain
and high rock outcrop. Passes low, and travelling
open and very easy. Loads of game. This led us to a
wide interior valley sweeping upward to the north be-
tween two low ranges, across which we angled toward
the upper end where our glasses had disclosed a green
spot that looked like water. About noon we found
this to be a trickling little clear cold stream, with big
trees. The trickle soon ran underground, leaving
the country dry and parched, but it made us a shady,
pleasant camp in which we resolved to stop for some
days.

While waiting for the safari, Memba Sasa and I went
on to find the source, and got a very fine sight of a
magnificent black-maned lion. The wind was wrong,

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 95

and he bounded into the thicket, but he was a beauti-
ful creature.

Our camp was made in a shady grove. The donkeys
came in very late and tired.

In the afternoon Cuninghame and I went upstream
to the pass whence we looked down the length of an-
other narrow valley, widening between the hiUs. It
headed against ours, but on the other side of the low
transverse range. Here at 120 yards I hit a Bohur
doe low in the shoulder, and brought her down by
a second, running, shot at 80. Then we made a high
climb up the mountain to our left, and found at last
a rounded grassy summit on which were many Chan-
ler 's reedbuck. These graceful, and generally shy, crea-
tures, bounded all about us, stopping within a few
yards, and uttering their high shrill whistles. East,
north, and south were spread before us fine big tumbled
hills and mountains, through the smoke of many grass
fires. West extended a boundless plain, undulating
and black with brush and fire. The sun struck in bars
through the smoke, and the distance was lost in haze.

Got back to camp at dark to find it well stung by
bees. An enterprising porter had found a bee tree too
near, and had got everybody in trouble. After dark
they went at it again and got a quantity of black,
grubby honey.

Five hours; loj miles; elevation, 6,100; morning,
50; noon (?); night, 65.

96 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

August 15. — Sent men back to last camp to bring up
potto loads we had been forced to leave. From the top
of the mountain we had, the day before, seen a patch
of green grass back among the hills. We went toward
this. A very high wind blew. Going over a grassy
shoulder of the hills, single file among some thickets,
Cuninghame ahead, suddenly a bushbuck doe sprang
out and stood sidewise forty yards away. Cuning-
hame dropped flat, his arms over his ears, and I, firing
over him, put a .405 in her shoulder. Very hard animal
to get, as they are mostly invisible in heavy cover. I
have a buck and want a doe.

The green country on the slopes below the moun-
tains we found inhabited by great herds of game,
but extraordinarily wild. Through the thin growth of
small trees with which all this country is sparsely
covered we could see them disappearing at the mere
first small glimpse of us. This puzzled us, but we
gradually evolved the theory that game usually de-
pend on hearing and smell rather than sight, but that
when the two former senses are nullified by the wind,
then they revert to the other. In fact they dashed
off in exactly the headlong manner of game that has
whided a man. This theory of the substitution of one
sense for another was fully proved by the fact that
next day, no wind blowing at all, we went back to the
same place and found all the animals very tame.
They could now revert for protection to their usual

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 97

senses of smell and hearing, so that the mere sight of us
did not alarm.

Zebra, impalla, topi, kongoni, waterbuck, and many
Bohur reedbuck, Tommy, and Robertsi were there in
numbers, but we saw little of them beyond the dust of
their going. By extraordinary^ stalking I wounded a
topi at 180 yards badly enough to cause him to turn
off from the herds. While following him I had a most
interesting experience. In a shady little grove with-
out underbrush stood a reedbuck, a graceful pretty
creature about the size of our California deer. His
head was up and he was staring at me. My course led
directly toward him. He did not move. Nearer and
nearer I walked, bolt upright and in plain sight, ex-
pecting every minute he would bound away, until I was
within five or six }ards of him. Then, as he did not
move, I quietly turned aside and walked around him
about ten feet distant, and left him in his cool green
shadow, still staring. And then, just a few yards
farther on, I came across a family of sing-sing, some
lying down, some standing. They, too, stared at me,
in noble attitudes like a lot of Landseer's stags, until
I was within thirty yards. Then I caught sight of my
topi and fired at him across the sing-sing, and they
vanished. All this was under the shelter of woods
where there was no wind. Killed the topi at 200 yards.

After that we spent a long time trying to get near
enough to a topi herd to procure one or more of the

98 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

four we needed, but in vain. Finally after the fifth
hard stalk I took a couple of shots at them running at
about 200 yards, but missed. Also failed at a sing-
sing doe at about 300. Again owing to high wind. We
then started back to camp. When two miles from
there ran across a few topi stragglers. These animals,
so universally visible in the open, became almost in-
visible in the bush, even at short range and to the gun-
bearers. Where never molested, as in this country, both
topi and zebra are mostly found in the light brush.
They come out into the plains only occasionally, as do
impalla.

These topi were travelling somewhere. We cut in
ahead of them and then sat down to let them get near
us. Killed one dead in its tracks at 148 yards, and
another, ditto, at 237. Left all men to bring in skins
and meat and hurried toward camp to lay out a kill for
Mr. Blackmane. It was now near five o 'clock and we
hoped to find some animals near the water. Sure
enough, a herd of topi and kongoni were there. Crawled
on my belly 100 yards in burned grass, emerging
like a chimney sweep, and put a bullet in a topi's
shoulder at 160 yards. He gave a bound past a small
bush and out the other side. Dropped him with an-
other shot, and found I had two topi. The first had
fallen dead behind the bush, and the second had been
standing there and leaped out as the first went down.
Left one for lion bait, and whistled men out from camp

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 99

to carry in other. This made us rather more meat in
hand than we needed for immediate consumption, so we
set every one to making jerky. New one on them, but
it came out excellently, and we have ever since kept a
piece or so about us to chew on. Makes a fine emer-
gency lunch.*

In the evening driver ants started to march through
camp. When driver ants start to go anyw'here every-
thing else has to stand aside. They are said to eat
everything but tin. We headed them off with a line
of hot ashes, and then laid a thick barrier of more hot
ashes around them, leaving an appropriate exit in the
other direction. Dolo got down on his hands and
knees, shut his eyes, and was led by another man
back and forth all around the donkeys. He carried
grass on his head, muttered charms, and when he had
finished claimed that his beasts were now quite safe
from the chop. A donkey died in the night, and we
heard leopards about.

Morning, 58; night, 56.

August 16. — Nothing doing at our lion kill.
After examining it we went on to the green patch
again where our wind theory for wildness was well
worked out. Ran against a fine bull eland and killed
him with one heart shot from the Springfield. He was
a very fine trophy, but was otherwise an unfortu-

* This supply of jerky lasted us through the whole trip and into the ele-
phant country. I do not know why sportsmen do not use more of it.

loo THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

nate old warrior. He had one blind eye, carried a
healed broken jaw, and had lost the end of his tail!
The skin on the back of his neck was two and one
quarter inches thick! While the men were attending
to the trophy, and pending arrival of meat porters, I
took fine close-range pictures of topi and kongoni.
Back to camp by noon.

Late in the afternoon Cuninghame and I went out
to lay poison for leopards and I had the luck to knock
a Bohur at 120 yards with the .405. Feasted high.
Eland tongue is a real delicacy. Two more men sick.

Morning, 55; noon, 78; night, 58.

August 17. — Took a parting look at the lion bait and
then set off over the low pass into the other valley.
Left Dolo, the donkeys, and the sick men. Instructed
them to go back to Windy Camp, where, be it re-
membered, some time ago we left two sick men, two
sick donkeys, and twelve loads — and to bring up the
lot. We left Dolo six men as help.

Down the slope of the valley beyond the pass the
grass was very high and wearisome, and (in spite of
soot) we were glad the country behind us had been
burned. Many reedbuck leaped from their beds and
bounded away, showing only heads and horns. Then
Cuninghame saw a big roan standing in the shadow
of a little thicket. He was 208 yards away, but by
luck I managed to centre his shoulder offhand. Ran
into the thicket. Found him there, and brought

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY loi

him down at close range as he dodged through the
bushes. Fine prize, and a big one. He had been
wounded by a Wanderobo arrow in the neck, and the
wound had suppurated so badly that we were afraid
to use the meat.

Farther down the valley in burned country again
we struck buffalo spoor. Told the men to turn sharp
to the left up the slope of the mountain to where some
green trees indicated water. There they were to pitch
camp. Meanwhile, we tracked the buffalo some miles
across the burned area and into the thicket, only to
have a fitful wind whip around on us at the last moment
and send him ofif when we were within a few yards of
him. Returned to find safari camped at a pretty
green spring high up on the the slope of the hill, with
clear water, green trees, and a far outlook. Rained a
Httle. Heard lions.

Morning, 58; noon, 85; night, 68.

August 18.— All the scrub and small trees here-
about are full of small green parrots that chatter and
scream and fly about; and monkeys; and brilliant
plaintain eaters, the most gorgeous of created birds.

We started at 6:15 and marched across a sort of
opening from our interior valleys through the border
mountains that led to the open plains. Across this
mouth was a hill corresponding with the one we had
left at our last night's camp. About three miles out
we crossed a dry stream bed with tall trees and ferns,

I02 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

and advanced beyond it over a burning. Two ani-
mals stood side by side on the black soil among the
bushes. Glasses discovered them to be roan. I sneaked
as near as I could and dropped the first in his
tracks as though he had been struck by lightning.
The other ran, but stopped an instant to look back,
and him, too, I knocked down in the same manner.
Distances 252 and 347 yards. Cuninghame and two
men remained to attend to these, while I skirted the hill,
about halfway up ; for these were all buck, and I now
much wanted a doe to complete my collection. A half
mile farther on I saw below me a herd, and counted
nineteen. This is assuredly the greatest roan country
in Africa. At 260 yards I knocked my doe out with
one shot.

We camped near where I had shot the first two, in a
grove of great green trees with a spring of clear water,
and the hills behind us and the plains before. Late in
the afternoon when the sun was low I strolled among the
lovely high green trees and enjoyed the ibises, the
many reedbuck — and the rhino !

Morning, 57 ; noon, 72 ; night, 64. Sent back men for
extra loads left at the camp two days back.

August 19. — Went very early along the edge of the
watercourse in the hope that abushbuck might stray out
beyond his cover. Luck was with me, for I ran on two
so busily fighting each other that I dropped them both at
forty-five yards. Great prizes. Luck is with us here.

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 103

Returned to camp and we had a serious talk over our
situation. Our transport is seriously crippled. So
many donkeys have died that we are now quite unable
to move forward except by relaying. This condition
is going to get worse instead of better, unless we are
willing to abandon a portion of our valuable equipment
or some of our trophies; neither of which we want to do.
Each defunct donkey leaves behind him not only the
two loads he has been carrying, but also his saddle,
pack-sacks, and two sheepskins that have been in use
as his saddle blankets. The Wasonzi told us that at
the old slave- trading post of Ikoma, now a German
government post, some distance to the south, we
could buy any amount of donkeys. They said that
there are Indian trading stores also.

After discussing the situation thoroughly it was
agreed that Cuninghame should take a very small
safari and strike directly south until he cut the track
from Arusha to Ikoma. At Ikoma he was to mail
letters; get information as to lake transportation,
elephants, buffalo, etc; copy or procure whatever maps
the officials might have; get some potio; and buy some
necessaries and a few luxuries to celebrate on, a list of
which we promptly made out. In the meantime I was
to proceed slowly in a generally northwesterly di-
rection, searching out routes and water. When, in
the course of time, I found likely game fields or other
items of interest, I was to camp. At the present camp

I04 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

— where we now were — we could leave two men and
all spare loads. They were to stay here until Dolo
and his outfit returned and until Cuninghame got
back from his recruiting expedition. As soon as I
knew where my permanent camp was to be, I was to
send back here as many men as I could spare. These
would at once serve as guides and as help in moving
forward the spare stores. Then the outfit was to join
me at my "game camp." Cuninghame picked six
men, Kongoni as gunbearer. Soli as personal boy and
cook, and M 'ganga as diplomat and chief interpreter.
Dolo has six porters, Sulimani and the Toto on the
trail. There are two sick men back at Windy Camp,
and two are to be left here as keepers. That leaves me
fourteen.

Since these hopes and plans are now fresh in the
readers' minds, I will here insert Cuninghame's notes
of his expedition. They are chronologically a bit mis-
placed, but they give a very vivid idea of the vicissi-
tudes of African travel, the reliabihty of African in-
formation, and the uncertainty of African plans.

CHAPTER VIII

cuninghame's journal

Left Roan Camp at 7:00 a. m., August 20th, for
supposed water near the Gaboti River, bearing 208°.
Marched till 3:00 p. m. and struck the Gaboti River.
Could never get two bearings off marks at one time.
Countr}' all trees and low lying — compass giving
trouble, not working freely. Dumped men and hunted
hard for water till 5:30. Found no game, no birds,
and no sign of a spring. No rises to get a view from
and bush hopeless. Returned to men and made for
nearest point on Bololedi River. Men about tired out
when I fetched up at river at 8:15 p. m. Found water
and two lions. No camp made but lay down on the
river bed with good fire and plenty food and water.
Men marched twenty-four and three quarter miles, and
Kongoni and I must have covered over thirty miles.

August 21. — Left Bololedi Camp 7:00 a. m., having
previously determined my position (with a new com-
pass) as about one mile downstream of the marked
standing water. Set a course and knew I ought to cut
the Ikoma track. Did so in half an hour, and having
made certain it was the right path, held on to it.
Marched two hours and only got one chance of taking

io6 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

any bearings anywhere. Soon after thought I could
see with glasses Nalaro Rock. Took sights and found
I was correct. Distance about twelve miles ofif.
When near Gaboti standing water (estimated by watch
as no bearing whatever obtainable) found a sort of dry
reed bed, but no sign of Gaboti River, no game, no sign
of standing water, and nothing but bush. Held on to
track for three more hours, when suddenly saw Nalaro
Rock about two miles ahead. A real hard country to
steer through as you very rarely see anything but bush
and trees. Passed Nalaro and made Londani River at
3:00 p. M., still on track. Found no standing water
anywhere and started digging. Got a little water
three feet down. Men very done up. Sun hot. Dis-
tance marched twenty-one miles. Am inclined to
think Gaboti standing water is dry now, and that this
water is only found two or three months a year. No
game at all here but half a dozen Tommy.

August 22. — Stayed the day at Londani River.
Men willing to go to the boma on the principle of the
carrot in front of the donkey, but I decided to hunt for
water in event of my having to bring donkeys back by
this road. Found sufficient water in one hole under
root of big tree and made it secure against game and cut
a way down to it from the bank. Shot two male Granti*
for meat. Saw large herd of wildebeeste on other side
of river some four miles west so concluded there must be

* Roberts! (?).

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 107

plenty of water in holes down the river some miles. No
game whatever near camp. Heard Hons far distent
last night. Blew half a gale from sunrise to 11 a. m.;
after that clouded up, a cool wind started again 5:00
p. M. and blew all night.

August 23. — Marched twenty-eight miles and made
Ikoma bovia at 5 :oo p. m. Found Londani River per-
fectly dry; had to dig for water. Only one official in
residence, only two rotten dukkas* one an Indian and
one a Swahih. Found next to nothing in them, but
mericani t and wire. Not a donkey ever heard of in the
district! Sharp rain shower at 6:00 p. m. Turned in
very disgusted with everything.

August 24 (Sunday). — Went and reported myself to
the Fortress (!) at 11 A. m. Found the "gaoler" could
speak quite fair English. Talked for quarter of an hour
and then he suggested I should see him in the office at
1 130 on Monday, as he was very busy over nothing all
Monday morning. I left, but sent him a note at 5 :oo
p. M. about porters, food, guides, etc., suggesting that
he might get a move on in the morning by issuing the
usual instructions to askaris. Got verbal message
back: "To-morrow at 1 130 p. m. " Felt rather amused
over it all.

August 25. — Went up again at 1:30 p. m. and the
guard refused admittance till 3 :oo p. m., saying that the

* Shops.

t White cotton cloth.

io8 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

bwana had issued orders he was going to sleep till 3 :oo
p. M. Sat down at front door till three, when bugles
blew and nothing else happened. Saw my man at 3 .-25
in his office. Gave him the correspondence,* which he
read, carefully returned to me, and said never a word.
Found he had not acted on my letter to him re porters
and food for guides. Got him to give the necessary
orders at once. Porters (fifteen) certainly available;
food very scarce owing to failure of last year's rains;
Wanderobo guides most unlikely to procure, and if
obtained would bolt in a day or so. After I left him I
got M 'ganga to go and hunt the askari, who was sent
for the derobo, and promise him 10 Rs if he brought me
two derobo by to-morrow night.

Maps unknown here. The office had only one traced
map of very poor character on the district only. No
maps procurable at Shirati, Mwansa, or Arusha. The
only way to get any is to apply to Daressalaam. We
must make a copy at Shirati if possible.

Mail and post. Stamps unknown here. No reg-
ular mail service. Officer sends his mail when he likes
to Mwansa and will accept ours at our risk. Will give
them to-morrow. Mail to be sent off in six days and
occupy six days to reach Mwansa.

Steamer time-table. 'J Nothing known about sailings.
Says that the dates are continually being altered. (This

* Letters from Berlin, etc., instructing all officials to aid us.
t Victoria Nyanza.

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 109

cannot be so.) There are two steamers arriving each
month at Shirati! One from Kisumu from the north,
and the other from Mwansa (the south); dates un-
known. Lake steamers call at the new port Musoma,
three days south of Shirati.

Supplies at Arusha. Believed to be good for native
posho, as there is a big population around. Con-
dition of European suppHes unknown. Supplies at
Amala River district unknown, but posho probably
procurable, as natives plentiful up to four or five days
east of Shirati.

Big game license. Not obtainable at Shirati, but only
at Mwansa and Daressalaam. We may be able to
arrange this by deposit at Shirati. There is no tele-
graph or cable there.

Elephant, Bufs, etc. As the officer never shoots any
game at all, he knew nothing whatever about it, not
even the names. Local niggers report elephant some-
where in Ungruimi country south and north of Amala
River. M 'ganga has the information.

Fly areas. All along the Amala River cattle fly and
sleeping sickness fly, but G. palpalis not supposed to be
badly infected. Risk for safari very slight indeed.
Risk for animals considerable. Tsetse fly around
Ikoma recently and seems to be arriving from no-
where and spreading every^vhere all along the northern
boundary districts; hence scores of Masai and local
native stock is beginning to die (in odd places) all over

no THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

the country. All this is quite recent and nothing much
is known about it scientifically. The only area known
to be perfectly free is the Serengetti Plains.

Donkeys. Unknown here. At Shirati a few at 80
Rs and over. Plenty at Iramba province, near Galano
Boma. This place is about ten days south of Ikoma
and three days south of Mwansa, and it would take
about ten days to buy ten donkeys from local chiefs at
15 to 20 Rs per ass.

Musoma (see small map) is a new deepwater steamer
port of eight months old. Going to be the port of the
future, and already many stores and one European
dukka is established.* All European safari require-
ments reported to be had there. j One official in
charge. Mosquitoes very bad there. Kisumu steam-
ers calling there after Shirati and Mwansa regularly.

Spears. Very few and the poorest quahty; only
saw three.

Porters. Wages at rate of 17 cents|per day or 5 Rs
per month, with posho daily extra. No blankets or
kit whatever. Wanderobo wages at rate of 20 per day
— or as per arrangement.

August 26. — Porters arrived; only three loads food
posho, which is all that can be obtained, which same is
most unfortunate, but this district is really most im-

*These glowing accounts proved to be considerably modified by facts.
See p. 250.
t Untrue at that time.
X 5§ cents our money.

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY iii

poverished owing to failure of last year's rains. At
5:30 two Wanderobo arrived and I questioned them
closely, but could not get much out of them. M 'ganga
said that I had better not say too much, but get them
off on safari and then make a shaiiri as to their accom-
plishments. Sent the mail to the homa, and the Ger-
man thought that N. T's. letter would not reach
Nairobi till September 20th. Dine in the Fortress to-
night at seven o'clock.

Officer's name Lieut. G. Giehrl. Clear out tomor-
row without fail.

August 27. — Started at 6:30 a. m. and marched six-
teen miles to camp marked on map with two Wander-
obo as guides. Camped at their kraal and found it two
miles from any water, which water was in holes in the
Grumenti River. On the march met the deputy
Wanderobo chief and he said that we had inexperienced
guides (as I quite well thought) and that we were to
ask for better ones, and if we did not get them to wait
till he got back early to-morrow morning when he
would try and fix up a good shanri. Found it useless
to try and improve on the two men I have already,
so after two hours' talk decided to march to Bara-
kupess water to-morrow.

August 28. — Started at 6:00 a. m. and marched
nineteen miles to water near Barakupess. Hardly any
game except a few topi. Shot one near water for
meat. Difficult water to locate, and I have not yet got

112 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

a sight of the two Barakupess hills, though they can't be
five miles ofif. Intend striking due east for Dolo 's camp
to-morrow. Derobo seem to know this country like a
book and showed me two waterholes on the march.

August 29. — Started at 6 :oo a. m. and marched twenty
miles to Dolo 's camp. Map all in error for the last two
and a half days. Saw lots of wildebeeste and topi three
hours from camp. Shot one topi at camp. Found
Dolo and eight donkeys alive. Received S.E.W's two
letters, and shall start off again to-morrow on his
track. Hope to just manage to carry everything off.

CHAPTER IX

August 20. — Cuninghame and I parted company at
daybreak. I set out by compass, bearing for a river
called the Bologonja, described by savages as running.
Went for miles over rolling burnt-out desert on which
roamed a few kongoni and eland. Then saw the
green trees of my river, walked two miles more — and
found myself in a paradise.

For three miles we continued on down the river out-
side the tall trees that constituted its jungle. Then
we saw three hons, but they got the wind of the safari
and decamped. I chased them a half mile, but nearly
ruined my ex-broken ankle, and had to stop from sheer
pain. Then we turned aside and made camp.

It is hard to do that country justice. From the
river it rolls away in gentle, low-sloping hills as green
as emeralds, beneath trees spaced as in a park. One
could see as far as the limits of the horizon, and yet
everywhere were these trees, singly, in little open
groves; and the grass was the greenest green, and short
and thick as though cut and rolled; and in the broad
hollows were open parks.

The Bologonja was indeed a clear stream, running
over pebbles and little rocks, shadowed by a lofty,

11.^

114 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

vine-hung jungle of darkness, coolness, little gray-
monkeys, and brilliant birds. When we had pitched
our tents inside this jungle we found ourselves in a
green room full of charming, intimate voices. No hint
of the fierceness of the equatorial sun reached us.
Yet twenty steps brought us into the open where we
could see the rolling green hills with their scattered
little trees, and distant mountains here and there to
the north, and the high, noble arch of the cloudless
African sky in which the sun burned all day long un-
obscured. And then twenty steps back again to the
stream — running water in a land of little choked
springs, of rare green sHmy pools, of rock pockets
fouled by game, and of long leagues of unmodified,
unmitigated thirst; cr)^stal clear water in a land of
silt where from year's end to year's end one never
hopes to see the bottom of his drinking cup for the
mud! Just to sit under the palm leaves where the
breeze sounded like on-coming rain, watching the shim-
mer and refraction and shifting of the waters, was a
marvel and a joy. March on four days more, perhaps
away from this stream? Not any! This was good
enough for us!

In the afternoon I strolled over the fine green hills
and revelled in the sight of the game — black herds of
wildebeeste, like bison in the park openings, topi
everywhere, zebra, hartebeeste. Tommy, oribi, stein-
buck, impalla, reedbuck, and others. Out of the lot

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 115

I picked a kongoni at 237 yards after missing one at
180, buck and doe oribi at 50 and 120 yards, and a
wildebeeste at 353 yards.

Never have I seen anything like that game. It
covered every hill, standing in the openings, stroUing
in and out among the groves, feeding on the bottom
lands, singly, or in little groups. It did not matter in
what direction I looked, there it was; as abundant one
place as another. Nor did it matter how far I went,
over how many hills I walked, how many wide pros-
pects I examined, it was always the same. During my
stay at the next two camps I looked over fifty square
miles. One day I counted 4,628 head! And sud-
denly I realized again that in this beautiful, wide,
populous country', no sportsman's rifle has ever been
fired. It is a virgin game countr}', and I have been
the last man who will ever discover one for the sports-
men of the world. There is no other available possi-
bility for such a game field in Africa unexplored. I
moved among those hordes of unsophisticated beasts
as a lord of Eden would have moved.

But to get back to the day: the animals were on this
afternoon a little curious and a little shy. At moments
they were as tame as cattle, again they were as wild as
horses in pasture. In some circumstances the most
conspicuously marked animals seemed quite invisible;
and in others the most craftily neutral tinted stood out
as plainly as striped banners in a breeze. At times

ii6 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

the mere sight of the crown of a helmet over a bush
would send them flying with a thunder of hoofs that
fairly made the earth tremble, again, I actually had
several hundred animals trek solemnly toward the
sound of my rifle to investigate for themselves what
it was all about! Most of the time they hardly
looked up from grazing when they were not too
near.

Four hours; 9 miles; elevation, 5,200; morning, 64;
noon, 80; night, 73.

August 21. — Heard wild dogs in the night. I got
up in the black night, ate my solitary breakfast by the
flicker of a fire, and then, just as the first milky gray
was seeping into the darkness, I started out for a walk.
The ground was not to be seen at all, nor the objects
near the ground, only the tops of trees like ghosts. We
stumbled and moved slowly, feeling our way. All
about us we could hear beasts snorting at us, hke
mettlesome horses stamping on the earth; or perhaps
we heard the short swift rush of them as they dashed
away. Only when they moved could we see them,
phantoms, bits of the same dim substance of all the
rest of the world. They were puzzled at us, and
curious, and very near.

And all the time the flames were spreading in the
sky, the fierce, hot red and copper and orange flames
of the African sunrise. They reflected on the earth.
We could see a little better, guess a Httle more. Then

' -m rg- »■ >

CONSTRUCTING ONE OF THE STOREHOUSES OR "CACHES IN WHICH WE
HAD TO LEAVE OUR SURPLUS GOODS

.M. ui .<v K .,i,jk..Uu-_ oL::. UK " LACHES COMPLETED

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 117

all at once some dilatory god threw over the switch,
and it was light!

Never shall I become accustomed to the magic of
this phenomenon. Whenever anybody, white or black,
happens to be near me, I remark upon it to him; and
generally gain sHght response.

Went first to look at the lion kill (nothing), and then
up the small bushy ravines on the chance of seeing his
lordship. Found where he had killed an eland with
twenty-four inch horns. Saw sign of greater kudu.

The countr>^ rolled away before us in wave after
wave of low, sparsely wooded green hills. The shallow
valleys between were without trees, and grassy as so
many cultivated parks. The eye followed them a mile
or so, to come to rest on the low slopes of more hills,
covered scatteringly with more little trees. In the
bottom lands were compact black herds of wildebeeste,
grazing in close formation, like bison in a park, and
around and between them small groups of topi and
zebra — two or three, eight or a dozen — moving here
and there, furnishing the life and grace to the picture
of which the wildebeeste were the dignity and the power.
And every once in a while, at the edge of a thicket, my
eye caught the bright sheen of impalla, or in the middle
distance the body stripes of gazelle, or close down in
the grass the charming miniature steinbuck or oribi.
These were the beasts, of course, we were certain always
to see; our daily familiar friends, the crowds on the

ii8 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

street attending to the affairs of the veldt. And as we
wandered farther up the valley, or along the bordering
ridges, we could see also in all directions down through
the trees other scattered animals who had not joined
the crowds in the valleys, hundreds and hundreds of
them.

In a little open flat I found a Tommy (very few of
them here) with a fine head, so I dropped him at 157
yards. His horns proved to be fifteen and three
eighths inches (good ones in British East Africa about
thirteen inches). At the sound of the shot a lot of
game across the valley decided to come over and see us,
which they did, single file, and at a dignified pace.
They filed by, 400 to 500 yards away. There were
fifty- two eland (how's that for a sight?) accompanied
by about one hundred zebra, a few topi, and kongoni,
and eighteen wildebeeste.

Then I returned to camp and rested until two
o 'clock, when I took a different direction over the hUls,
and to my wonder found the game as continuously
abundant there. From the tops of the swells it was
particularly pretty to look over the tops of the trees to
the green flats like courts, and the wildebeeste grazing
on them.

At this time we run across a great multitude of
game returning from a waterhole. The fact would be
evident enough to any one within earshot. A great
chorus of zebra barkings, persistent, shrill, over-power-

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 119

ing, led one to the right spot. Then we saw the long
procession of the beasts returning from the water to
their accustomed businesses. The great majority of
them plodded along the trail single file, adhering
strictly to the path, looking neither to right nor left,
being soberly respectable as suits the average middle
age of any body politic. But alongside capered the
}'oungsters, kicking up their heels, racing back and
forth, biting at each other. And always they were aided
and abetted and urged on by those striped clowns —
the zebras. Rank after rank, they went by, each with
his kind — the wildebeeste, the hartebeeste, the many
topi, the eland, the impalla, and all the little flanking
gazelles — and so over the rise of the next hill. Each as
he topped the ridge against the western sky stood out
sharp-cut, a silhouetted miniature, then dipped down
the other side out of sight. From the direction of the
waterhole rose lazily a great cloud of dust where yet
other hundreds of beasts were awaiting their turn, or
rolling luxuriously after their thirst had been assuaged.
Then we followed over the rise, to witness the
gradual fanning out of the procession. A little group
dropped off to right or to left, and fell to grazing.
Others kept on over yet more distant hills. Within
the half hour the great herd had broken into hundreds
of little groups, scattered over many miles, and count-
less hills and valleys. Again the green lawns were
covered with the black wildebeeste.

I20 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

It was now time to turn home. The sun was low
and the shadows long. It is not well to be out in the
first dark of Africa. The nightfall is hungry and
dangerous; though the dawn is fed and safe. And when
the sun dips below the horizon, darkness comes as the
dawn comes, swift and sharp as the fall of a sword.

Here under the equator the sun keeps very regular
hours. The difference between his rising or setting
times in summer and winter is only about twenty
minutes. One can count on about six o 'clock, morning
or evening, for those performances. It is very handy.
One does not have to estimate the sun as "an hour
high"; he simply looks at his watch and knows it is an
hour high. That is fairly important when one wants
to know when to turn camp ward.

Very reluctant to break up this peaceful scene, I
killed a topi at 243 yards for ourselves, and one at 208
yards to send back to Dolo when I dispatch my relay
to-morrow. Then Memba Sasa and I circled to cut
the stream some distance below camp. Near the river
the trees are thicker on the hill. Here we caught
a glimpse of sing-sing. Did some very careful slow
stalking and got within 150 yards all right. Difficulty
was to make them out, and to get a shot through the
thick stuff even then. I had to wait nearly half an
hour before I made out the buck's shoulder clear enough
to shoot. Dropped him in his tracks at 160 yards. The
herd crashed away, of course, but one doe paused to look

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 121

back, and I got her at 2 1 5 yards. This made my pair.
Hiked back along the river and sent out men hastily,
for it was now near dark.

Saw little game, and no game trails going to the water
at the river! So there must be water out on the plains.
Many grouse, however, and some green parrots and
gray monkeys. A Baganda man, named Maliyabwana
("the white man's money"), brought in a long string
of fish.

Morning, 63; noon, 73; night, 70.

August 22.— Last night Memba Sasa reported with
slight fever. Gave him quinine, and told him to lie by
to-day. Instructed Ali to pick me out a porter to visit
lion kills with me, and added, "one who will not run
away." Overheard the following:

Ali: "You will carry the bwana's other gun. If you
run away you will get kiboko; if you do not run away
you will get three rupees. If the lion makes kalele, do
not run away; the bwana will kill him. If the lion runs
at you, do not run away; the bwana will kill him. The
bwana has killed many lions. Bass !''

Sent back all the men but two to bring up a relay of
goods from the last camp — "Dolo's Camp."

I myself started for the lion bait just before day-
light, shouting as I passed a command for the tem-
porary gunbearer to follow. I heard him behind me,
but did not look back at him for a mile or so. Then,
behold! It was Memba Sasa!

122 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

Of course I cussed him for disobeying orders, but
he swore earnestly that he was all over his fever; felt
strong.

"And perhaps that man will run away," he added.
"Ali told him too many times not to get scared."
Good psychology.

However, nothing doing at the kill. I crossed the
river and toiled to the top of a high cone hill for the sake
of compass bearings and a sight of the" lay of the land."
I have a strong desire to strike south into the heart of
the plains to see what I can see. Found Chanler's
reedbuck up there, and roan at the base. The chmbing
was rather hard, consisting of loose round lava frag-
ments partially concealed in the grass.

From the summit I could see pretty well in all di-
rections. The north-and-south hills through which
we had marched from Windy Camp and the Wasonzi
were plainly visible far to the east. North were many
hills and ranges. West, and very distant in the blue, I
made out an escarpment — two or three days distant;
the Mara River must run below that. Our own river,
the Bologonja, flowed northwest in the general di-
rection of the Mara; I could follow its course for some
distance by the green forest line. That must be the
direction of our marches when Cuninghame returns.
It looked to me as though we might, farther down, cut
loose from the Bologonja and across the triangle to
hit the Mara lower down. But my chief interest was

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 123

to the south. As far as I could see, the same type
of country persisted — rolling green, sparsely wooded
hills and shallow valleys. The eye was stopped by a
sort of height-of-land ten or fifteen miles away — not
hills, but a higher rise of the rolling country. A bold
outcrop of big rocks ofifered absolutely the only land-
mark ; and as water was more likely to be among them
than any^vhere else, I took their compass bearings, and
resolved to strike first of all for them. Through the
glasses I saw thousands of head of game.

Returned to camp on the same side of the stream,
but saw comparatively little game there owing to the
state of the grass. There were, however, a number of
topi, Bohur reedbuck, and impaUa. Got my needed
Bohur doe with the .405 at 107 yards. Near camp
caught sight of a queer-looking black hump sticking out
of the tall grass. When near, it suddenly unfolded into
a cock ostrich and departed. We found twenty-eight
eggs. Only a dozen or so were covered by the bird;
the rest were scattered out a few feet, as though they
had been kicked aside. This is the slovenly habit of
the ostrich. Took one egg, but it was bad; no ome-
lette!

In the afternoon I took one porter and went out
with the intention of taking game pictures. The sky
overcast, however, and the game had a fit of being wild.
Speaking of pictures, some time back I heard Ali ex-
plaining the camera to some shenzis as foUows:

124 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

" The bwana looks in the box; and when he sees what
he wants in the box, he makes it go click-click; and
when he is at home and wants to see that thing again,
he looks in the box and makes it go click-click, and there
he sees that thing even though it is far away."

This is so good an explanation that I have adopted
it. By letting savages see the image on the ground
glass and then telling them this, I can get them to pose.

Found six good water-pools some miles "inland. "

On our way home we jumped a buffalo cow with a
calf a week or so old. She trotted away across the
open hills, buffalo fashion, nose straight out, slowed
down to baby 's capacity as a traveller. Just as she be-
gan to calm down, she ran plump into Memba Sasa.
Off she went again very frantic, and, as luck would have
it, she tried to cross the stream at our camp ford! The
whole camp boiled out to receive her. Poor old buff !

We spent the short evening each in his own fashion,
I in my canvas chair smoking, staring into the soft
darkness or the shifting flames; the men squatted
on their heels around their tiny fires, eating quantities
of meat and cornmeal, and chattering boisterously.
Outside our little dome of light the night businesses
of the veldt went forward. Only the most formidable
or the most insignificant creatures raised their voices,
except in alarm or warning. Lions roared; insects
hummed and chirped. Out there in the dark was a
different world from that in which we moved so freely

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 125

during the daylight hours; a dangerous, tragic world.
Next day we would find evidences of the fact. I have
seen killed by lions the remains of every sort of creature
except buffalo and rhinoceros. Lions are said oc-
casionally to kill even buffalo, though rarely.

I had this evening a long camp-fire talk at the gun-
bearers ' fire, I tried to describe to them the different
sorts of big game we have in America. It was very
difficult to visualize for them such a creature as a
grizzly bear; he was so entirely outside their experience.
I should like to see the mental image my dilution
through the Swahili left in their minds. In turn they
told me of their own peoples, and their childhood, and
the bwanas for whom they had carried weapons.

Morning, 61; noon, 73; night, 70.

August 23. — Off at the first gray of dawn before I
could see about me. A \-ery high wind came up soon
after sunrise. In the hollows I found the game fairly
tame, and spent much time sneaking close for pictures.
Took a half hour to go 100 yards, an inch at a time, but
was rewarded by some excellent photos. A beast much
nearer the type of the true Neuman 's hartebeeste* than
that of the Narossara country is found here. Thought
we had him from British East Africa, but that must
be a hybrid race. This is a smaller animal, so light
in colour that he looks like a ghost, long legged, and

*The hartebeeste in B. E. A. is now described as a separate species called
the Nakuru hartebeeste. Whether this can be referred to that species, or
is something new, I am not quite certain. I shall hereafter call him Nakuru
for convenience.

126 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

with quite a different head. When in a herd with the
ordinary Coke's hartebeeste he is easily distinguished.
And beHeve me, he is shy! Where everything else is
tame he is most difficult to approach. He evidently
does not take anything for granted nor believe what
other animals tell him. Wariness is evidently the nature
of the beast.

After taking my pictures I cautiously laid down the
camera and dropped one at 242 yards. He got to his
feet, and I laid him down again. Off went every-
body, of course. I held absolutely motionless, and, as
often happens, many beasts did not locate me, and
came circling back. Among them were two Nakuru.
I sat perfectly still for a long time, and at last they
fed within range. Missed first shot at 262 yards, but
got into the shoulder before they went. A raking shot
finished. Very much pleased with the acquisition of
these specimens, I sent to camp for porters, and set
about taking trophies. While doing so three marabout
showed up. I fired three shots, and got two. A herd
of zebra ran over the hill ahead of the porters and
stopped within fifty yards of me. How they did go
when they got my wind !

On the way to camp had the luck to find a small
herd of Nakuru hartebeeste asleep behind cover, and
actually got close-range pictures of this shy beast.

Spent the afternoon labelling specimens, writing,
etc., as for some days my ankle has been so bad that I

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 127

often have to stop and ''writhe a bit." Made nine
miles.

Morning, 60; noon, 79; night, 72.

August 24. — Having resolved to loaf, I ate break-
fast by daylight for the first time on this trip. Did
various small jobs until my relay safari came in from
Dolo's Camp about eleven o'clock. Had them put
down their loads and rest, with instructions to pack up
in an hour's time and follow my blazes down river.
Intended to move merely to a fresh camp at the base
of the hill from which I had taken my bearings. They
reported Dolo back at store. Four more donkeys and
the other mule have died.

Marched three miles to foot of hill Memba Sasa and
I climbed, and there camped in the river jungle, clearing
ourselves a shady place for the purpose. I had just
lain down for a rest when to me came one of the porters
in great excitement; he had seen a leopard asleep.
Grabbed the .405 and followed. Sneaked quietly
through the green undergrowth and the thick green
shadows. Finally, through the leaves, we saw below
us, about forty yards away, a gliding, silent, spotted
creature, I caught the tips of ears, and blazed away.
]\Iadc a good shot through the brain and killed — a
hyena ! However, it was a fine one, and nobody could
tell who the spots belonged to in that thick stufif, so we
did not laugh much at the porter.

Then Memba Sasa and I went scouting. Killed

128 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

a zebra for lion bait at 230 yards with a shoulder and
a raking shot. Saw quantities of game, as usual, in
the same sort of country we had been hunting in, in-
cluding both Nakuru and Coke 's hartebeestes, separate
and distinct, the former as wild as ever, the latter big,
red, and curious, as usual.* Killed one of each, took
both heads, hung the meat in trees, and returned to
camp. Coke's 105 yards; Nakuru in high grass at 130
yards; two shots, one miss, one hit.

About midnight a pack of baboons travelling along
the course of the stream blundered into camp, and
there was a fine row. Evenings rather dull and lone-
some; no light to read and nobody to talk to. My
Swahilij is now about as good as any one 's, so I sit at
the gunbearers' fire a good deal, and we all swap yarns.

This march 2f miles; elevation, 4,950; morning, 61;
noon, 79; night, 73.

* Saw some apparently hybrids.

t Of course I mean the porters' crude Swahili, not the complicated coast
language.

CHAPTER X

August 25. — Every book on African hunting, and
every African hunter worthy of the name, will tell you
that a lion will never in daylight attack a man unpro-
voked. There is no blither warrior than the lion when
he is given due cause to fight. You can stop or turn
a charging elephant, a charging buffalo, or a charging
rhinoceros by pounding him hard enough; but not a
charging lion. If he once starts for you, you must kill
him. Furthermore, a comparatively slight annoyance
will sometimes cause him to charge; you don't need to
wound him. But unprovoked and out of hunting
hours he is supposed to be a peaceful citizen. To-day
I had one experience that apparently was an exception.
I struck out to the southeast, merely because, from the
top of the kopje, beside the big distant rocks, we had
seen some smaller outcrops striking up above the bush
only four or five miles away. They looked nearer —
from the top of the kopje. When we came to walk
the distance, we found it considerably more than we
had anticipated. Down the long gentle slope of the
hills, across the valley, up the long gentle slope on the
other side, and so repeat. In each valley and on every

incline we found game. In one little burned patch a

129

I30 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

steinbuck lay crouched down close, its ears folded back
just like those of a dog that considers himself especially
virtuous. In grass the little antelope would have been
perfectly concealed. Evidently it considered the fact
that the grass had been burned as an extraneous de-
tail for which it could in no manner be held responsible,
for it held its position as rigidly as though it had been
completely hidden. As a matter of fact it was in plain
sight. To such lengths will habit carry the conven-
tional-minded !

We reached and examined the rocky outcrop. Then
quite idly we turned down the vaUey in which we
stood. Along the centre of the vaUey ran a shallow
dry watercourse in the bottom of which grew various
sorts of brush. This brush strip varied in width from
nothing to loo feet. Memba Sasa and I took one
side of it, while Sanguiki and the two carriers took the
other. We had no very definite ideas.

For it is great fun quietly thus to follow one of these
little brushy ravines. You never know what will pop
out next. It is no good to raise a row and yell and
throw stones. If you do that, everything gets out far
ahead. But if you just sneak quietly along, perhaps
occasionally tossing a pebble into the likely looking
thick places, you will have lots of fun. In the first
place, a cloud of little birds are always rising, strange
little birds, with only the satiny sound of rushing
wings in common. Some of them are brown and sober-

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 131

minded, and some of them — the various sun-birds es-
pecially— are the gaudiest and most glittering of
created beings outside the insect world. Some have tails
three or four times their o\\ti length, and some have
no tails at all. Near water-pools they are incredibly
numerous, so that the aggregate of their tiny weights
bends down quite good-sized saplings. Some have
a good deal to say about the situation and some are
disdainfully silent.

Beside these little fellows are many larger birds.
Grouse whirr away, or rocket high; guinea fowl, con-
sulting each other anxiously in clucking undertones,
dodge ahead ; hornbills swoop aloft ; little green parrots
buzz about in a sort of cinematograph fashion; an
occasional profane ibis — profane in language though
"sacred" by name — flops off with a string of oaths.

Gray or green little monkeys gallop away ahead, or
clamber up things to take a look. Baboons bark
hoarsely, run a little way, climb up something, shake the
foliage violently, and disappear. The souls of aviators
awaiting human incarnation buzz aloft on the tiny
aeroplane-like bodies of huge beetles. Butterflies like
flowers cling to the tiny twigs of bushes; and flowers
like butterflies seem always on the point of flight.

And of animals there is no end. Some tiny ante-
lope— a dik-dik, an oribi, a steinbuck, a bushbuck — is
always scrambling madly away from fairly beneath
one's feet only to dive headlong into another bit of

132 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

cover where it hopes for better luck at remaining con-
cealed. And occasionally some mighty crash brings
one up all standing, every muscle taut, every sense
alert. Then, if all is silent, comes maneuvering,
cautious reconnoitering, a scouting for a sight either
of the beast or his tracks. Or, if the crashes continue,
a scurrying to and fro for a point of vantage and reason-
able safety. Probably it is an old rhinoceros disturbed
at his nap, or a stray buffalo. If you are hunting
neither of these creatures — and we are not — your
whole desire is to avoid an encounter. To do this,
however, means no unwise policy of concealment. It
is weU to see your beast as soon as possible in order to
know how to pay due respect to his choice of routes.

One practical word of advice: when engaged in this
harmless and pleasing pastime, do not carry your
lightest gun in your hand. If anything unexpected
happens, it is well to have your heaviest armament
where it is handiest. For that reason I was carrying
the .405.

We wandered along down this valley for two or
three miles; and were just beginning to think the sun
hot, when we came to a slight widening of the brush
patches. Sanguiki and his men were out of sight
across the ravine. Memba Sasa had angled fifteen or
twenty feet to the left with the purpose of looking
down a hole. Suddenly I heard to my right a tearing
scramble and crashing of small brush.

TYPICAL HUNTING COUNTRY IN THE NEW REGION

UllLKL lilL liH. Llu.\ 1'-

WHERE I THEN STOOD
SEE PAGE 133

i;w\i nil. ^iMJi

. o

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 133

So vigorous was this crashing that I thought it must
be either a buffalo or a rhinoceros. The banks of the
ravine immediately at hand were almost perpendicular
and perhaps eight or ten feet high; but both upstream
and downstream, and about twenty yards apart, game
trails had been worn to a good grade. I ran directly
for a point midway between these game trails. My
thought was that from this vantage I would be able to
see the beast whether it continued in the bed of the
ravine, or whether it climbed out by either of the trails.
This looked like a safe plan, for no rhinoceros or
buffalo would attempt to scale that steep bank.

A big maned lion leaped to the top of the bank right
in my face!

I was just four yards from him. In the fraction of
an instant that he paused to assure his balance I re-
covered from the shock of surprise, swung the bead of
my .405 on him, and pulled the trigger. It would be
exceedingly interesting to know just the actual lapse
of time between the appearance of the lion and the
first shot. In reality it must have been exceedingly
short, for the beast was caught between the landing
from his leap and his spring; he indubitably in-
tended to attack, knew just where we were, and was
out to make a fight of it. Yet I apparently had time
to notice a great many little details, such as the fact
that the lion had an unusually fine mane ; that the mane
was so erect between the ears as almost to point for-

134 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

ward; that his eyes looked round rather than elliptical.
Later Memba Sasa told me:

''I said, 'Will the bwana never shoot!'"

Nevertheless, before the lion had even tensed his
muscles for the next effort that would land him on me,
the first bullet took him. It was an exceedingly in-
teresting example of how rapidly mid comprehensively
the human mind works under excitement.

The .405 Winchester delivers a blow of about 3,300
foot-pounds; and this animal was so near that the ve-
locity was in no way diminished by air resistance. The
largest buffalo I ever saw was knocked right off his
feet by a shoulder shot from it.* This lion did not
lose his balance, but the force of the blow thrust him
sidewise as a paper box is blown by a violent gust of
wind. That he was not knocked flat seems to me
remarkable. Perhaps the highly organized nervous
system of the cat responded instantaneously so that
the muscles reacted unconsciously and at once. I
yanked the lever of my rifle down and back and put in
another. The bullet entered just two inches from the
first. I was shooting for the heart; the head shot on a
lion is always uncertain.

This second shot again thrust him back so far that he
toppled over the edge of the bank and down into the
ravine.

I ran to the edge. He had recovered himself and

*He didn't stay down!

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 135

was again scrambling up the steep side, growling
horribly. My third shot broke his foreleg. Steady-
ing, I raked him from end to end. He rolled over on
his side still growling and roaring, biting the ground.
I watched him closely for further trouble, but after a
moment he died. Memba Sasa was standing close to
my left elbow, the Springfield cocked, five .405 car-
tridges spread ready fanwise in his left hand.

There succeeded the brief dead pause that always
seems to follow a lion row. Then we shouted. The
cry was instantly answered by Sanguiki and his men.
They had probably been standing with held breath
awaiting the first definite indication of how the fight
was going. Certainly there must have been enough
to listen to, what with the repeated detonations
of the heavy gun and the snarls and growls of the
lion.

We tried to carry the dead lion into the shade, but
were unable to lift him. Therefore we constructed a
shelter of boughs. A lion's skin is a tricky affair, and
must be handled immediately and carefully. He was
a magnificent creature with a thick long black and
tawny mane, better than any other wild lion I ever
saw, and almost equal to a menagerie beast.* Never
expected to get anything so good. Stood three feet
seven inches at shoulder; nine feet three inches straight

* In mane. In physique a wild lion is almost always bigger than a
menagerie lion.

136 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

line measurement in length. Very heavy beast, must
have gone well up between 500 and 700 pounds.

Then Memba Sasa and I began to figure over the
incident. A wounded lion, or a cornered lion, or even
a lion that has been followed until he has become
annoyed, will attack practically every time. But what
had induced this old fool to pop out at us so savagely?
We were walking along attending to our own business,
which had nothing to do with him. In my African
experiences I have, up to now, seen 103 wild lions; and
Memba Sasa has, of course, seen many more; but this
was the first instance of its kind for either of us. So
interested did we get that we determined to back-
track the beast.

The trail led us immediately into a dense, low, shady
thicket. Bending half over, we crawled cautiously in.
A low snarl and the half-guessed yellow of a gliding
body warned us that the bower — for it was a bower, a
shady, pleasant, cool little arching bower — was already
occupied. Crouching low, I peered as hard as I could,
but did not succeed in getting another sight of the
beast. We crawled in farther.

A dead zebra lay on its belly, all four legs stretched
back. Evidently it had been dragged bodily by the
head or neck. Think of the strength required for
this feat! We examined it. Except for the marks of
its killing, its skin was unbroken. A wide swath
through the brush led us out of the thicket and fully

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 137

150 yards into the open. There the kill had been
made.

"Memba Sasa," said I, "he did not attack without
reason. He had a good reason. We spoiled a
n 'gnoma (party) . He had here his meat and his bibi
(woman), and he did not intend to be disturbed."

So, after all, even this was not a case of a lion's at-
tacking entirely unprovoked! We left the carcass of
the zebra as bait for the lioness.

Near home, just before we dipped to cross the
stream to camp, Memba Sasa let out a peculiar sort of
howl. Before we had gone 200 feet every man in camp
was there, most of them with their faces whitened,
dancing wildly the lion dance. It was quick work.

Spent the afternoon caring for the trophy, paring it
down, doping it with alum water, and finally stretching
it in a huge frame, which we hoisted in a tree. Made
a very mild joke, which lasted the camp some days.
One of the Swahili porters was bragging that he liked
any kind of meat, lion included. I knew him to be a
Mohammedan.

"Very well," said I, "I will take you with me here-
after, and you can hallala the next lion. " *

The crowd caught many fish. Walked 13 miles ;
morning, 58; noon, 84; night, 71. Call this mother's
birthday lion.

*As is well known, the Moslem must hallala — cut the throat — of any ani-
mal he intends to eat while the beast is still living.

CHAPTER XI

August 26. — Returned early to the thicket. Had
the lioness several times within a few yards, but
could not get a sight of her. The zebra was pretty
well eaten up. This in spite of the fact that the dead
lion 's carcass lay within eighty yards. Evidently conju-
gal affection did not go so far as to destroy appetite.
Several hundred carrion birds sat around in neighbour-
ing trees, but they had not yet ventured to the feast.
I have many times noticed this peculiar action. The
birds could clean up an ordinary carcass in five minutes,
but will often leave a lion untouched for days, though
they cannot bear to go away.

Then beat down the ravine for some distance, and
cut across the hills home. At one place a herd of zebra
departed over the hiU. A spoiled child of a colt, not hav-
ing seen us, refused to be hurried just because the elders
chose to go off in such a hurry. Anxious mamma, at the
top of the hill, uttered impatient and worried commands.
He toddled along, his eyes half closed, his ears laid
back crossly, replying every once in a while with a
sulky, petulant bark. So busy was he in having his
own way that I got within a few yards of him. And
then how he flew ! "Mamma was right after all! "

138

METHOD USED IN DRYING LION SKINS

MARABOUT STORK

A TYPICAL UblRICH NEST. THi. BIRD WAS LSL,.\oi;U i:^ <_UW.RING ONLY

THE GROUP OF EGGS IN THE CENTRE. THE OTHERS WERE

APPARENTLY KICKED ASIDE AND LEFT TO ADDLE

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 139

Crossed the river high up and came to camp on the
other side. I found a little flat bordered by palms and
the abrupt downslope of clay, where saline deposits
had lured right out into the open that rather solitary
and most invisible little creature, the Bohur reedbuck;
so that I saw them, twenty-sLx of them, cropping and
licking away like deer, each ostentatiously indepen-
dent of the other in order to convince chance passers,
like ourselves, that spite of this apparent herding, they
had not abandoned their principles. Had to stop
and bandage my ankle in order to get on at all. The
thing is very painful and is turning black. Hard to
walk, but the country is too fascinating to permit any
one with a wiggle left in him to stay in camp.

Reached camp at noon. A slight rain came up, and
we rigged a very funny shelter for the suspended lion
skin out of everything waterproof we had. About
four went out for camp meat. Soon got within range
of topi across a ravine, and dropped two before they
got away, 182 yards and 197 yards. Swung around
and again climbed the hill above camp in hopes of a
Chanler's reedbuck doe, but did not get a shot at the
two I saw. Game very tame to-day. Winds baffling
and aggravating.

The men working on the skins are always fine to
hear, one crooning a short falsetto solo, and the others
chiming in with a swinging bass refrain, under their
breaths, busfly.

I40 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

Twenty -one miles' walking; morning, 58; noon, 80;
night, 72.

August 27. — Took tent without fly, cook load, bed
and men 's load, three men, without burden, and staff,
and with this small safari struck nearly due south into
the supposedly waterless country. Had waterbags,
and plan was, if no water was found, to return next day.

For seven miles we continued in the same type of
country, the ridges and rolling hills rising impercep-
tibly toward a sort of low system ; and for seven miles
the game continued as abundant as ever. Then came
recent burning with only a few animals. I had laid my
bearing for the outcrop of rocks seen from the camp
hill. Got to this, and began to hunt for water. There
seemed to be none in the immediate vicinity, but a
mile distant, in a queer wide depression full of grass
and with a conical rocky kopje in it, I at last found a
tiny pool that a little digging turned into a spring. No
shade and the water not very good, but w^e hung blan-
kets over the tent and boiled the drinkables.

After a short rest I went out after the first ne-
cessity, some animal for meat. Missed a reedbuck
twice, and then downed a topi with two shots at 212
and 127. Very high wind and hard to hold on. Left
the men with the meat, and with the gunbearers pushed
on as rapidly as possible to scout the game and water
prospects to the southwest. We had a heap long walk,
got down the next watershed and found a dry water-

^^^

ZEBRA, HARTEBEESTE, AND WILDEBEESTE IN THE NEW COUNTRY

ZEBRA, TOPI, AND WaLDEBEESTE IN THE NEW COUNTRY

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 141

course. Many game trails, but no fresh tracks and no
game but giraffe. All waterholes drunk or evaporated
dry. I presume the game ranges in here abundantly
right after the rains. High wind, constantly shifting,
lost me a fine impalla head on the way home. Hit him
and stalked him four times, but each time the wind
whipped behind me and finally I lost him in the bush
(number four to get away this trip). Sun terrifically
hot. It is evidently impossible, because of lack of
water, to do anything to the southwest.

In camp I found the meat-safe had been left. In
this country of many blowflies, and where health is a
precarious matter at best, this is serious. Called up Ali
and the cook, and settled conclusively on the latter as
the culprit. Fined him 6 rupees. Vast silence in camp all
evening. Saw several tsetse; a strange place for them.

Nine hours; 23 miles; elevation, 5,200; morning, 62;
noon, 84; night, 68,

August 28. — Off at six o'clock to scout the south-
east, in which direction we had heard lions roaring.
Laid out a zebra for bait and flagged him to keep off
the birds — 167 yards. Topped the ridge, and came into
a country of long, down-sloping, parallel billows, grown
thickly with small trees, green grass dongas in the
bottom. Loads of game; as much as back at the river.
Found several waterholes over here, but all fouled by
the game. Finally came to a dry stream whose bed
consisted of sheets of smooth rock and boulders.

142 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

Among these were several big reservoirs of good water
in locations inaccessible to the game. We followed it
up for some miles. Found some klip-springers. There
are no cliffs hereabouts for them to spring on, so the
poor deluded beasties live down in the stream-bed and
there leap "from crag to crag." Came on one sud-
denly, and startled him so that he fell off into a pool
and had to swim ashore. Here also saw bushbuck
and roan. Giraffe numerous.

Swung back along the broad low crest of the height-
of-land. Game tame. About 3 :oo p. m. and to north-
east of my landmark rocks found a lovely spring of
clean, cold water with low palms, and blue lotus
flowers, and flaxen high grass all around. Some strata
set knife-edge fashion prevented the game from getting
at it. This looked good, so I sat down and sent a man
with instructions for Ali to pack up and move over here.
While waiting I shot a Tommy for meat (about 100
yards), and took compass bearings to locate the water.
Tsetse all along this ridge. Saw rock hyraxes to-day
and sing-sing. Got interested in counting game, and
made a tally of 4,628 head, aU day, actual count.
Beautiful, quiet, and peaceful sunset over the dark and
illimitable plains.

Ten hours; 20J miles; morning, 58; noon, 85; night,
66.

August 29. — Spent all day scouting to eastward and
southward. Loads of game, and another water — duly

WILDEBEESTL

A MORNING NAP

SEE PAGE 143

HE STOPS IN CONTEMPLATION

SEE PAGE 144

'" «■ ■

^^^^H

•Ih^

^^m

■■

^^^^^^^^^-^^

HE DEPARTS

SEE PAGE 144

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 143

mapped. Same character of country. Killed a good
warthog on the run at sixty yards, and missed a good
impalla, just at noon, at about 100 yards. Beat many
dongas and counted 1,539 head of game before nine
this morning. Then quit: too much work. Sun very
strong. Determined this as a cracking game country ;
mapped it carefully. Easy to get lost, as the twist of
the country is peculiar, and there are no local land-
marks.

Ten and a half hours; 24! miles; morning, 56; noon,
100; night (?).

August 30. — Got results on our lion bait — in the
shape of eleven hyenas and a leopard! The latter
leaped into the top of a low tree — a fine silhouette
against a saffron dawn. He looked at us, leaped do\\Ti
again, and disappeared before I could get a shot. The
hyenas were of all sorts — big, little, and medium; red,
gray, and brown. They vanished sullenly, at the last
moment.

We then swung on a circle toward our base camp at
the foot of the hill. Across the valley saw a rhino
browsing. Slung the .405 over my shoulder, took the
camera, left the men squatted, and sneaked down on
him. A little ravine lay between me and him, and I
took two at twenty-five yards across this. Then I let
myself down into the ravine, raised myself with great
caution on the other side — and found myself so close to
him that I could not get him all in. Waited patiently

144 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

until he moved to the next bush, and then got a fine
portrait. After this I tossed two very small pebbles to-
ward him, not enough to alarm him, but sufficient to
cause him to move on. As soon as he was far enough
away I climbed out of the ravine and slipped along
after. Dogged his footsteps for half a mile, dodging
from bush to bush, and occasionally getting some new
pose.* At last he emerged on the open plain. I
whistled sharply. Instantly he whirled and started to-
ward me and I snapped the final film of the roll. De-
posited the camera quickly on the ground and gave him
a careful shot in the outside of the shoulder. No chance
to dodge in the open, and I had no desire for him to
close. This turned him at about thirty yards and he
went off with a slight flesh wound.

Nothing remarkable then happened until we were
quite near camp. Then I saw a lioness moving across
a small flat of grass in the valley. Hurried down there,
but she had disappeared in a donga where I knew it
would be useless to follow her. However, I happened
to glance to the right, and there was another loping
slowly along about 125 yards away. Opened fire with
the Springfield and got in three beautiful shoulder
shots you could cover with your hand. This slowed
her up. A fourth shot, as she turned, just cut into her
tail, saving a miss but doing no damage. She then

* These pictures did not turn out as well as I had hoped o^ving to the fact
that I had, because of the easterly wind, to take most of them toward an
early morning light.

HE WANDERS STOLIDLY AWAY
SEE PACE 144

JUST BEFORE THE RUSH
SEE PAGE 144

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 145

turned at bay in a small thicket. Followed her with
usual precautions. She thrust her head up ten yards
away, got two .405 bullets in the chest, and collapsed.
Took lots of hitting this one. While the men skinned
her I went outside and killed camp meat in the shape of
a topi at 180 yards and another at 210. Just outside
camp got a w^ildebeeste at 231 yards. Thus closed an
eventful morning.

Had just finished lunch when in came Cuninghame.
We were glad to see each other ! Ikoma proved to have
no donkeys, no Indian stores, no potio, no water except
in holes, not even one nail! A single German ofl&cial
occupied a battlemented stone fort with three lines of
barbed-wire defences. Cuninghame brought back four-
teen naked savages as porters, and two Wanderobo as
guides. The porters are Wakoma, well-formed, strong
copper men, quite naked, with pleasant faces and a
happy disposition. They carry their loads by means
of shoulder straps made of bark. Why this does not
cut their shoulders in two I am unable to say. Cun-
inghame and I sat in the shade and swapped news
all the afternoon. He brought back one tin of butter
and a few German cigars. We also took our first
drink of whiskey by wa}- of celebration.

Four hours; 13 miles; morning, 56; noon, 89; night,
72. Donkey safari also came in.

CHAPTER XII

August 3 1 . — Took a walk with Cuninghame, who was
very keen to see the real Nakuru hartebeeste in the flesh.
We saw plenty of other game, but found our beasts only
after a long walk, six of them, looking ghost-like and
as though on stilts. As usual, they were very shy.
Repeated stalks brought me only within long range.
Here I wounded one. There followed a long chase
over the hills and into the burned country — I slipping
along under whatever cover there was, trying to keep
concealed; and the hartebeeste always taking alarm
just before the favourable moment. Missed three times
at long range; then landed the animal stone dead at
411 yards. Tied my handkerchief to his horns and
slipped after the others. They were at this point
joined by a second lot of a dozen or more. Through
the thin bush managed to get a doe at 200 yards, and
another at 160. These three specimens were most in-
teresting. The first buck was clear Nakuru, light in
colour, long of leg, and small in body, with the long
horn base and the converging points to the horns.
The first doe was as plainly a hybrid with Coke's harte-
beeste. The second doe was a good mate to the buck.

Of course I had long since lost track of Cuninghame

146

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 147

and the men. They could not begin to keep me in
sight and at the same time remain concealed them-
selves. I attached pieces of paper to the horns of the
specimens, blazed a way out of the scrub with my
knife, and took up my back track. By means of a few
rifle shots and much whistling we got together. The
sun was now high and hot. After measuring and com-
paring to our hearts ' content, we skinned the trophies,
divided the meat, and returned to camp. Our "little
stroll" had turned out to be fifteen miles of hard, fast
going!

Another donkey had died. Reorganized packs.
Out late to look for marabout at our lion kill (two and a
half miles more), but found none. Saw some bush-
buck.

In the evening IM'ganga was evidently a great so-
cial success with the Wakoma, as he elicited shouts
of laughter from their campfire. M'ganga is quite
a wonder as a linguist. He talks fluently Swahili,
Masai, Monumwezi, Wakamba, Wasonzi, \\'akoma,
and Ungruimi. Our two wild men, the Wanderobo,
got restless, as they generally do, and wanted to go.
We gave them permission — if they cared to do so with-
out wages. They promptly departed into the howling
wilderness without food, and most certainly without
clothes.

Morning, 66; noon, 84; night, 74.

September i. — Off at 6:15 ahead of the safari.

148 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

following the course of the river. Character of the
country remained about the same — rolling, thinly
wooded green hills to the left, with wide green valleys
between ; the river, with a narrow strip of high trees ; and
higher hills some distance back on the other side. Many
taU, slim pahns with tufted tops, growing singly and in
groups. About a mile down we saw a baboon family
or tribe of fifty or sixty that had not yet arisen. These
animals rest in the tops of the taU trees, so as to escape
the leopards. They take a good grip with their hind
hands, hump up in a furry ball, and sleep. The main
lot discovered us and made off; but one old gentleman,
undisturbed by the noise of the exodus, slumbered on
aU alone. When he did wake up and discover us below
him, he uttered some shocking language.

About four miles on saw a big bull eland and a cow
feeding together in a glade between two ravines that
here come into the river. By crawling some distance
I got within range, and gave him one in the point of
the shoulder. He leaped forward. My second shot
was intercepted by a tree. Third caught him running,
other shoulder, at about 200 yards. Then I made two
good running shots through timber at about 300 yards,
and he came down. Left the gunbearers to care for him
and went on down and made camp among the date
palms by the river; twelve miles. Sent men back for
meat and loafed. Got hold of some fly-blown meat,
and am not well, for the first time on this trip.

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 149

Elevation, 4,600; morning, 66; noon, 89; night, 73.

September 2. — We knew this stream flowed into the
Mara River, so considered it useless to follow the two
sides of the triangle. Therefore when we judged the
time right we took compass bearings and struck across
on the hypothenuse.

For some distance the country remained the same,
then the hills increased slightly in height, the grass
turned high and brown, and in the creases between the
hills were strips of dense jungle through which we had
to chop a toilsome way. The prospect was exceedingly
beautiful, for one could see far abroad, and the winding
green strips of jungle patterned the country. But
it was ver>' hard work. Almost no game. Plenty of
pool water in the ravines. Marched and marched,
and at noon found ourselves near a lone rock kopje at
the end of a rise of land. This was an excellent land-
mark, and we took bearings by it for a week or so here-
after. We could thence look back across billowing
oceans of scrub trees and grass to where our hills of the
Lion Camp showed dim and lone and blue. To the
south the ocean-like plain led to infinity. To the west
was a long pearly escarpment running unbroken toward
the north. Somewhere between us and it must be the
Mara.

Here near this kopje was some game — zebra, topi,
hartebeeste, and a lioness that looked at us from a dis-
tance. We had no time for anything but business, for

ISO THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

although it was a certainty that the Mara was some-
where ahead, no one could guess how far it was even
likely to be. We angled on in our probable direction,
struggling over hills tangled high with grass, chopping
our way foot by foot through the too-frequent wide
jungles. In these jungles the forest was not only fine
and high, but it was also tangled, dense, and broad.
Very hard work for me, as I was still a bit ill, and the
sun was very strong. At about three o'clock we left
Sanguiki to tell Dolo to camp the donkeys, and to come
on next morning; we feared the hard work would kiU
our few remaining beasts. At five o 'clock we had not
reached the river, though we knew it could not be far
ahead. Cuninghame and I separated and began to
look for water wherever we saw palms. At last found
some beautiful clear pools filtered through gravel to a
delicious coolness. It was alkaline but not undrinkable.
When the safari came singing and shouting in, we
camped. The more tired out your African is the
louder he sings.

No sooner was camp made than we were treated to
a smasher of a tropical thunderstorm. One of the
Wakoma stood out stark naked in the rain, his arms
upraised. To every clap of thunder he shouted back
an answer in a loud tone of voice. When the storm
had died he still remained, and would promptly catch
up and answer each and every diminishing peal. He
was a fine sight, as he was revealed by the flashes —

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 151

the upright pose, the rain streaming from his glistening
body, the flicker of his metal ornaments. M'ganga, later
appealed to, said that he was the official Thunder Lord
for his people. He was saying, "Go away! Go this
way! Go that way! You like to sit on high hills!
There are no high hills here! Go to Ikorongo: there
are high hills ! " He had also put "medicine " in a tree
in camp. I asked M'ganga if he himself believed in
this. He grinned quietly, and replied: "Well — the
rain has gone."

Ten and three quarter hours; 25 J miles; morning, 62;
noon (?); night, 72.

September 3. — Instructed the men to remain until
the donkeys appeared, and then to pack up. Cun-
inghame, the gunbearers, and I pushed on to find the
river. Found it within a mile, but so far inside a dense
jungle that we were glad we had camped where we did.
We turned sharp to the right and with some difficulty
made our way through the mile-wide jungle of the
ravine by which we had camped, and found ourselves
in open country again, with game. Here the river-
side jungle narrowed to a mere strip. We pushed our
way through it and looked down on the Mara. It was
a real surprise. Flowing as it here does between high
banks the eye passes across it easily to the hills beyond.
As a consequence one expects only a small stream. As
a matter of fact it was here fifty yards wide, and with
a deep, strong, swirling brown current that indicated

152 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

great depth. No swimmer could cross it. It is sev-
eral times the size of the Tana, for example. At this
moment it seemed to be in flood, yet the swollen
current may be a normal condition for all I know.
Certainly the rainy season is long past. Farther up-
stream it widened to a quarter of a mile, but even there
proved unfordable. This is the river from whose
lower reaches near the lake come persistent reports of
the amphibious beast "big as a crocodile, but with
long hair." There may be something in it: the report
comes from a great many independent sources. One
white man of otherwise mild imagination claims to
have wounded one. We did not see any !

We rather gave up the notion of slipping across to
where we had heard some lions, and turned north.
Here we saw topi, Nakuru hartebeeste, zebra, reedbuck,
impalla, and oribi, and a number of sing-sing. Among
them was the noblest buck I had ever seen. Had
with us only the .405, as this was a scout not a hunt;
but I took that. He proved very shy, and — as some-
times happens — there was too much game ; it served to
warn him. At last, seeing that I would get no nearer,
and that he was next due to skip out entirely, I made a
very careful estimate of the distance as 400 yards, set
the sight up four notches, sat down, and let drive. By
the sheerest fluke in the world the bullet took him
through the heart — 411 yards. His horns went thirty-
four and a half inches with a spread of twenty-eight

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 153

inches. A twenty-six to twenty-eight inch length is
considered extra good.

We then sent for the safari and made camp right in
the middle of an isolated thicket, cutting ourselves
burrows and chambers in which to set the tents. The
sun here is very powerful at noon. Rather seedy, so
rested. Cuninghame went out to look for a possible
way across the river, and to shoot another beast for our
complement of meat. Shortly he sent in a topi. Re-
turning later, he reported finding islands and possible
bridge route five miles up. Saw giraffe and eland.

At dusk the Wakoma came to us in a body.

"We want to go home, " said they.

This was a facer, as we would not get far without
them. They seemed to have no complaint, but only
to have become restless and uneasy. Their minds,
however, were quite made up. First, we spread out a
big blank book, called each man up, asked him his
name and the name of his Sultan, making a great and
elaborate pretence of writing him down. All this very
deliberate and slow, so as to get them well impressed
with the seriousness of the occasion. Then we told
them that we would send them back in twelve days,
when we reached the tribe of the Ungruimi. After
that we called each man up by name, asked him if he
individually insisted on going home, and on receiving
his answer caused him to stand aside from the group.
Thus singled out not one had the nerve to say he would

154 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

go. Then we dismissed the lot without further shauri.
They appeared quite satisfied.

Dolo drifted in, reporting another donkey dead.
Heard leopards, lions, and hyenas.

Elevation, 4,100 feet; 8 miles; morning, 51; noon, 91;
night, 78.

CHAPTER XIII

September 4. — Left Dolo and the donkeys — six re-
main— and went up river to Cuninghame's bridge site.
Kongoni and I deflected to the right to get some meat
for (a) Dolo and Company, and (b) the men we were
sending back to the Simba Camp to bring on the stores
we had had to leave. The game had a wild day, but
after a Uttle trouble I got within distance and laid out
two topi, one with two shots at 260 and 217 yards, and
the other with one at 227. We then cut across country
and caught Cuninghame just as he was making camp
in a thicket.

Tackled the river. Some tall slim palms grew at the
very water 's edge opposite an island. We felled several,
the tops of which caught the current so that they were
swept away, but finally got one to stick against the
island. A boy swarmed across it carrying a rope. Thus
we had communication estabUshed. By felling other
palms and dragging them we finally made a teetery
sort of footing. Crossed the island to look at the other
branch of the river. It was more of a problem be-
cause there were no palms on the island, though plenty
on the other bank. A volunteer managed to swim
over, at great risk. He caught a rope and made it

15s

156 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

fast, and others soon joined him. Two hours of labour
then bridged the other channel. Then Cuninghame
and I took our guns and went to explore for a camp
site on the other side, and the boys went fishing. We
stooped and crawled by hippo trails for half a mile —
and found we were not on mainland at all, but on an-
other island with the bulk of the river still ahead!
Furthermore, this arm could not possibly be bridged:
it was altogether too wide and swift. Scouted both
ways and found a possible ford, but even there the
water was running fast and deep. Natives could get
across all right without loads, after which we would
string a strong handline and cling to that. While Cun-
ninghame was attending to this, I agreed to return
and scout farther up the river for any other easier way.
Went some miles, enjoyed fine, broad-beaten hippo
trails, and returned about dark. Had one interesting
experience. As I was going very silently through a
dense green jungle, I stopped to admire a giant guinea
fowl strutting about in a tiny glade. Suddenly some
animal incredibly swift and active made four great
bounds and grabbed at the bird. It just escaped. So
quickly did the beast rush that actually I could not
make out what it was until it stopped. Then I saw it
to be a baboon. I had no idea they could move so fast.
He sat on his haunches gazing philosophically after the
escaped bird, and I could fancy him saying, "Missed,
by gosh!" I found no ford.

ONE OF THE CllANNLLh OF iHt MARA RIVER

CONSTRUCTING A BRIDGE ACROSS ONE OF THE NUMEROUS CHANl.l-Lr. UL

THE MARA RIVER

SEE PAGE 1 55

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

Cuninghame and men back late and wet. They had
strung the rope, and had got across through water
breast deep over huge slippery boulders, only to find
themselves on a third island beyond which the river
flowed ten feet deep and forty feet wide. There was
nothing for this but a block and tackle, but first we had
to get a line across. By means of many tosses from
the ends of long poles Cuninghame at last got a knot
to jam in a palm root. A volunteer went across on this
and made fast. Then they left it until to-morrow.

Heard Kongoni express the situation thus:

"When we had finished the bridges we thought we
had caught (kamata) the river; but it turned out to be
only a toto. " *

One and a half hours; 5 miles; elevation, 4,200;
morning, 66; noon, 84; night, 68.

September 5. — Crossed the river in two hours by (a)
three bridges, (b) a deep ford with handline, and (c) by
block and tackle. Slung the loads over first with the
pulley, then lowered the rope to water level and dragged
ourselves over hand over hand. Some of the men,
notably the Kavirondo, were quick and handy; but
others spluttered and ducked and kicked and splashed
something wonderful ! We camped on the high ground
the other side, and proceeded to dry out. Left the rope
in place for our return.

After lunch Cuninghame and I scouted across a

* Baby — young one.

iS8 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

high grass plateau with a few scattered thorn trees.
Here were again marvellous swarms of game. I should
be afraid to say how many we saw in that short walk,
mainly topi, zebra, hartebeeste, and wildebeeste, but
with a very fair number of Tommy and oribi. Shot a
zebra at 207 yards for camp meat.

Walked 8 miles; morning, 60; noon, 90; night, 70.

September 6. — Set off on a compass bearing for a
reported swamp close under the escarpment. There
we hoped to find buffalo. We are now in a triangle
framed by a bend of the river and the escarpment,
twenty miles by eight or ten. Followed the bearing
for a while, then were turned aside for some miles by
persistent Hon roaring. After a bit ran out of game
and into high grass, so gave that up and swung back to
our original plan. At this place shot a Tommy three
times at 123 yards before he left his feet, though he did
not move twenty yards. This ended a long streak of
pretty good shooting, for I have killed fifty out of the
fifty-three animals last shot at. Now I came due for a
rotten spell of two or three days, attributable possibly
to noon marching and great heat. After quitting work
from twelve to four for a few days I got back my luck.

We slogged along doggedly over the open country
toward the escarpment. The game steadily diminished.
About five 0 'clock I just scraped a wildebeeste and got
no further chance, so camp was meatless. We have
had no trouble finding water heretofore, and antici-

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 159

pated none so near the escarpment; but not a drop was
to be found even in the most likely places. Ever>^body
hot, tired, and dry after a hard march. Things looked
mean; but finally we found two gallons or so among the
stones of a donga. Energetic digging developed barely
enough to get on with. Saw three Wanderobo who
fled wildly, and would not be persuaded near us at all.
An old man later proved more friendly and allowed us
to give him a shoulder of Tommy, in return for which
he gave us the valuable information that there was no
other water, but that the swamp was just below. A
heavy storm with wind and rain swooped down on us in
the evening.

Nine and a half hours; 20J miles; morning, 51 ; noon,
96; night, 71.

September 7. — Followed the dry donga down to the
swamp. It was a beautiful green jewel set in wooded
hiUs, about three miles long and one mile wide. Its
tall reeds swayed and rustled in the wind, and here and
there gleamed patches and glimpses of water. In this
dry and parched country it was a refreshment to the eye
and a delight to the spirit. Its shallows should have
been alive with the little waders, its deeps with water-
fowl, its whole area vocal with the delightful cries,
squawks, whistles, and eerie calls of the marshland ; over-
head should have wheeled innumerable birds stooping
to its myriad insects. There were none of these things.
Not one living creature did we see. It was the abode

i6o THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

of dead stillness. Wondering, we tramped around the
head of it. There were no tracks in its mud nor through
its grasses. A half-dozen small green mounds elevated
six feet above the surface proved to be springs, with
the water standing in pools or gushing out from their
crater-like tops. This water was strongly mineral (per-
haps arsenical?) which may account for the absence
of hfe.

At any rate this was a disappointment. The swamp
was here all right: ideal in size and location to have
accumulated all the buffalo of the region. Only it was
the wrong sort. At least that was knowledge; so we
jotted down the fact, and prepared to return. Having
nothing else to do with the day we resolved to drive a
coarse grass swale for lions. Sent messengers to camp
to turn out the men, and sat down to wait. Somehow
they mistook their orders and spoiled the beat.

"Let's get out of here," said we disgustedly.

So we returned to camp, packed up, and got underway
at 10:40. It was no time of day to travel, but we
were anxious to get on. Took a compass bearing that
should bring us to the river a short day 's march below
our bridge. On this course we found the swells of the
plains broke in rough stony points, with fiats and turret-
like kopjes below. In one of these, about noon, we saw
three lions about 200 yards distant; but, without actu-
ally running away, they kept ahead of us, and we could
not get even a snapshot at their gliding yellow bodies

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY i6i

in the thin scrub. Pretty hot and winded we stopped
a few moments, then went on. Very strong sun.
Game came in streaks, first a barren country, then
plenty of it. Thunder was brewing in all directions.
We are now approaching the Little Rains. The day
starts overcast, soon clears to a hot noon and after-
noon, then gathers at dusk to great piled clouds and
peals of thunder and jagged lightning and a tremen-
dous downpour somewhere. Sometimes it hits us;
again we see it in the distance.

Toward four o'clock began to think of meat. I
missed a waterbuck at long range (about 350 yards),
and then a hartebeeste twice at about 200 yards. Soon
after struck tangling long grass with a high hill beyond,
and apparently a grassy donga between. Looked like
a long distance yet, as evidently we must surmount the
high hill before we could come to the river. Then we
marched to the donga — and found it the river, big and
deep as ever, but with here no trees to mark its course.
One of those happy surprises that do not often happen.
Camped thankfully in the middle of a shady thicket.

Hunt 6 miles; march also iij miles; 5 J hours; ele-
vation, 4,100; morning, 68; noon, 96; night, 73.

September 8. — Started up river across country, as the
stream here made an obvious bend. Shortly ran into
an immense herd (fifty or sixty) of sing-sing, and stalked
them nicely, but did some rotten shooting, as it took me
eight shots at 200 to 250 }'ards to get the two does wc

i62 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

wanted for camp. Just couldn't hold steady. Loaded
the meat aboard the men I had kept free of loads for the
purpose, and struck across after the safari. Country
the same as usual, and I saw heaps of game. Found a
human skull very much chewed, and was interested to
see how thick the bone was, and how few convolutions
the brain cavity showed. Some Wanderobo hunter
dead of thirst, wild beasts, or disease. Caught the
safari at 10:30, and almost immediately after saw an-
other beautiful sing-sing only slightly smaller and of
the same type as my other good one. He was shy, but
by careful stalking got within 260 yards and downed
him. At noon we came to the river, had lunch, and set
about crossing it in reverse order to the former process.
Two hours saw us at our old camp. The fire had been
through since we were there and the ground was black,
but our thicket uninjured.

Five and one half hours; 14J miles; morning, 59;
noon (?); night, 74.

The net results of our crossing the river at this point,
then, were as follows: The open country below the
high abrupt escarpment is about twenty miles long by
about ten in its greatest width. It is cut by a number
of watercourses, some of them wooded, but none nor-
mally containing running water. A very thin growth
of thorn scrub covers what may be considered open,
grassy, rolling country. Here and there are low,
rocky, circular outcropping hillocks crowned with green

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 163

thickets. This, I should say, is the peculiar character-
istic of the place — that the thicket growth is on the
summits of these small hills instead of in the hollows.
The thickets are nowhere continuous, and one can
always march around them. There is little water to be
found along the escarpment or in its ravines. This is
probably because of the volcanic character of the
country: the water sinks below the surface. At the
westerly end, the country breaks into rocky points
and buttes. The poisonous swamp is already described.
The bench is uninhabited, though native tribes are
numerous atop the escarpment. Sleeping sickness
is prevalent among them. Game is extraordinarily
abundant. We found it in the easterly and middle
portions; but undoubtedly it shifts location according
to the feed. We saw probably ten thousand head, and
of course examined a very small part of the stock. It
comprised the following species : wildebeeste, topi, zebra,
impalla, oribi, dik-dik, warthog, Bohur reedbuck, sing-
sing, Thompson's gazelle, Coke's hartebeeste,* lion,
ostrich, buffalo, crocodile, hyena. Saw also signs of
rhinoceros. Probably also could be found eland, stein-
buck, roan, giraffe, and bushbuck, although we did not
happen to see them. Altogether it is a wonderful
game field.

* Saw no Nakuru on the west side of the river.

CHAPTER XIV

September 9. — Down river through the freshly
burned country to our base camp. Here we found
Dolo and Company, together with our relay safari, all
right. They had backfired, and were quite safe.
Loaded them all up, and after an hour's delay went on.
For a short distance we enjoyed the good walking of
the burned country. The game was still there. 1 sup-
pose it had gone into the woods while the fire raged, and
now was enjoying charcoal as a diet — together with the
very roots of the grass. Then we struck higher hills,
deeper ravines, chaparral, forests, little open glades of
high grass. It was very pretty and intimate, but hard
travel, for we had to chop and twist and double and
turn to get on at all. However, we did get on, and at
noon emerged from that strip to the green open hills
again. Camped in the middle of a thicket; and found
ourselves just across the river from our camp of day
before yesterday. In the afternoon Cuninghame went
fishing (we have had plenty of fish ever since striking
the river), but I loafed. Assured our own meat by-
killing an oribi, but the men had to fall back on jerky
because I missed a waterbuck. This, however, ended

my spell of bad shooting. Dolo reported that while

164

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 165

we were gone he had to shoot two cartridges at hyena.
I '11 bet he was delighted at the chance, for he has been
longing for a decent excuse to let off that old blunder-
buss. Heav}^ storms in evening.

Five hours; 13 miles; elevation, 4,000; morning, 64;
noon, 92; night, 74.

September 10. — We now struck inland across a big
bend in the river. Travelled in rolling open highlands
all day, with new blue landmark mountains getting
nearer all the time. In them, our Wakoma said, live
a tribe called the Ungruimi. From them we hoped to
get food and men. At first the country was burned,
then beautifully green. As we drew nearer we could
see that the mountains were crowned and patched
with defined thick groves of forest trees; and beyond
them, singly, fantastic cones and knobs. The charac-
ter of the footing soon appraised us of the reason, for
the rocks became volcanic and slag-like, and the ravines
abrupt and eroded. At times the rocks, and conse-
quently the soil, were a clear mauve in colour. The
game, which had been abundant, now thinned. There-
fore we got busy and killed two Nakuru hartebeeste at
180 and 237 yards. Reached the river again at about
noon. At this point it runs over a hill and down a long
slope between the high countries with a great dashing
and hollow roaring among the tall trees of its bed. Little
cone hills 100 feet high surround us close, and the for-
est-patched mountains peep over them. In the after-

1 66 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

noon Ciminghame went out and shot at a hippo: we
need cooking fat badly. Of course we cannot tell un-
til to-morrow whether or not he landed.*

Overheard the gunbearers discussing why it is that
game is always wild when you want meat, and tame
when you don't. Says Kongoni: "When the bwana
goes out for nyumbo, then all the animals run and tell
all the nyumbo, and then the nyumbo are very fright-
ened, but the other animals are not frightened."

Two donkeys died. We have now four survivors.
Rained hard in evening.

Six hours ten minutes; i6 miles; elevation, 3,650;
morning, 60; noon, 92; night, 74.

September 11. — Started out ahead of safari to look
for Cuninghame's hippo. No hippo; but beautiful
early morning views of the soft folds of the mountains
over the way with their caps of forest and their caiion-
fuls of dark woods. Along the river the gorgeous
flowering trees and bushes are coming out, red, yellow,
white, and purple. The air of morning is always very
clear after the evening's rain. There are also millions
of industrious, loud insects.

After an hour the river bent away from us down
through a mysterious strange country of little blue
cones and craters rising singly from slate-gray distance,
and we turned sharp to the left along the steep side of

* Although hippo trails proved that at some time these animals are very
abundant, there were at present almost none to be seen. I think at times
of flood they may drift down the whole length of the river to Lake Victoria.

Tilt IKOKUNGU UUL'NTAIXS fKUM THE EAST

HUT OF THE UNGRUIMI. THE ROPES THAT HOLD THE THATCH ARE
TWISTED OF GRASS

^ H

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 167

Ikorongo. We were at the head of a long easy slope
to a distant stream, and could look across to another
range about eight miles away, with a fine table moim-
tain in it. After a time we struck into a beaten broad
path, and so about eleven came to the village of Iko-
rongo, and saw our first Ungruimi.

The \'illage consisted of scattered houses, each with
its homa of thorn or young euphorbia shoots, and its
Uttle flock of granaries, like children about it. The
houses are large and neat, made of a stout wall three or
four feet high, and a high -pointed thatched roof through
which the centre pole projects. This is triumphantly
topped with an empty gourd from which sometimes
little palms are growing. I suspect this latter is less
from a sense of aesthetics than as a charm or magic.
The granaries are exactly similar except that they are
taller in the walls in proportion to their height, which
is in the walls seven or eight feet by four or five in diam-
eter. They are rarely perpendicular, so they stand
about in drunken fashion as though coming home from
a debauch. The grass roofs are held down by heavy
twisted grass ropes thrown around them negligently
with quite the air of a garland.

The people keep chickens, dogs, goats, sheep, and
the fattest, finest humped cattle I have seen out here.*

They raise a sort of rape called m 'wembe which they

*This place is in the extreme limit of the tsetse countr>'; in fact, I found
several abandoned villages where the deadly fly had of late years extended
its boundaries.

i68 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

store in their granaries and beat into flour as required
in a mortar made from a log. The men are exception-
ally well formed, smooth, lithe, well developed, with
torsos a sculptor could take entire as models. They
are about cafe au lait in colour, shave their heads to
taste, and have keen, inteUigent faces. Their lips are
often thin, and their noses fine cut, which gives them a
reminiscence of one retrousse Irish type. The women
are remarkable for the strength and graceful power
of their bodies rather than for any beauty. I have
never seen better set-up, arched-ribbed, deep-chested
creatures anywhere. Unfortunately, living in the
lower elevations, they have not the firm, high breasts of
the mountain people. Their expression is engaging
and they are not shy. They wear a sort of skin half
garment, metal anklets, wire armlets, and many beads,
but do not burden themselves like the Masai. The
men wear a cotton cloth shoulder cape, blanket, or
nothing as they happen to please. Their ear lobes are
stretched ; they wear smaU armlets and well-made bead
belts, white with red patterns. These latter are par-
ticularly effective. They go unarmed except for a
short sword, but I saw a few spears of a unique pattern.

The bow is their weapon of chase. The method is to
drive the game toward a row of bowmen squatted be-
neath tripods of sticks! They use no other blind If

The children of both sexes go naked quite until about

t Possibly it is necessary only to break the human outline.

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 169

ten years old. In fact the first of these people we saw
was a string of a dozen girls, each with a water gourd
atop her head, and a string of beads around her neck.
They smiled sweetly on us, and passed unabashed.

We made camp beneath a tree, and soon received a
visit from the elders, rather fine and dignified old
savages, and a number of the younger men, one of
whom spoke good Swahili. It developed that this
village was under rule of a sultan across the valley, but
that he kept a son here to see to things. The Swahili-
speaking youth was the son. He said he had learned at
Shirati where for three years he served the commissioner
there — as cook ! He was a bright-looking boy, with a
piece of Mericani as his sole garment. He disappeared,
and shortly returned wearing (i) a tarboush on the
front of which were sewed two cogwheels from a clock;
(2) two white duck coats, the larger underneath so both
would show; (3) a yellow and black striped footman's
vest; (4) a patched old pair of checked breeches; (5)
spiral puttees; (6) wrecked shoes; (7) a red handkerchief
around his neck; (8) four other red handkerchiefs hang-
ing from his belt. We had then no doubt he was the
Prince. We ended by engaging him as guide and in-
terpreter for this country, and he is now on our staff.

Our shauri ran about as follows:

First — how many loads of potio could we buy?

"Two."

"Get them."

I70 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

He disappeared. Presently in came singly and in
groups women from the various houses carrying each
her contribution. These varied in quantity from a
peck to a mere handful, but each swelled the total un-
til the quantity was made up. We paid at the rate of
one half cent per pound.*

Second — could we get porters?

"Not here, but at a village across the valley."

"All right, you can take us there to-morrow. "

They then, as usual, begged for meat, so I went out
with one man as guide. He took me across the river
and through rich bottom lands where fed hundreds of
their fat cattle, and so over the swells of the valley, but
all we saw were three oribi and two Nakuru hartebeeste
that skipped as soon as they saw us.

A feature of this country are the long safaris of
driver ants. They are like a twisting brown rope
several inches in diameter, moving steadily onward,
with their big askaris guarding the flanks. I stepped
one fifty-six paces long ! Think of the millions of indi-
viduals !

Beautiful sailing moon in the evening. Four and a
half hours; lo miles; morning, 64; noon, 92; night, 74.

September 12. — An omelette for breakfast. An
old savage brought in about thirty eggs in a half gourd.
Being not exactly sure of the customs of the country,
I asked the chief 's son, our new retainer.

* Equals one sixth of a cent our money.

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 171

"Well," said he judicially, "you look at them all to
see if they are good; and then — well, you have money
— you have lots of money."

Took the hint. Eggs worth one rupee for forty.

Broke camp and struck straight across the valley.
A httle beyond where I hunted yesterday came to
loads of game, so the savages are right as to its being
here. Shot at a topi at sixty yards, and Kongoni said
the bullet went a foot in front of him! Found my
sight had been knocked way over. Hit another at 1 50
yards by aiming in front of him, but even then too far
back, so that although he was very wobbly he did not
come down. Cuninghame came up and I borrowed
his gun. Just then saw some wildebeeste the other
side of the wounded topi. Now a wildebeeste 's tail is
the surest road to a sultan's favour,* so I did some-
thing foolish — left a wounded beast afoot to go after
another. Killed the wildebeeste very prettily at 328
yards, and turned back to attend to my topi. It had
gathered strength and was walking away. It had a
walking fit, in fact, and never paused for five and a
half miles. It joined and went through much other
game; and as the other game was unhurt and curious
they prevented me from getting near enough for a shot.
Indeed I had a very hard time to keep track of it
at all, and finally lost it. Then I struck back for
home and by sheer accident ran on it newly dead! It

* They are used as fly whisks.

172 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

had walked at the same steady gait until it had dropped.
And one of the strangest features was that the two of
us, although we had gone five and a haK miles, ended
within 200 yards of the spot we had started from !

Left one gunbearer and took the other. Got in to
the village in an hour. Found a large central hut and
a half-dozen smaller had been swept and garnished for
our accommodation. As the huts were brand new, we
took possession, though we pitched our tents under a
big tree. The old fellow we at first took for the sultan
was an individual as little like a negro as any I have
yet seen. His features were aquiline, his lips thin, and
his face lined with lines of humour and shrewdness
rather than merely of old age. He was like a Sioux
Indian, or rather a weather-beaten old New England
fishing captain. He wore simple, heavy brass armlets,
a bead necklace, a plush carriage robe, and very heav}'
small brass rings in his ears. A small steel chain
passed from these across his forehead, thus easing the
weight, as it were. He smoked a unique pipe, with a
long engraved steel mouthpiece and bowl, polished
like silver, neatly bound with hide at the bend. A
slave carried a reclining steamer-chair.

With him was an oily looking, sly youth of eighteen,
speaking fluent Swahili, dressed in fez, kanzua* and
tarboush, and supplied with a slave and ordinary camp-
chair.

' A night-gown sort of garment.

TYPICAL n'gRLIMI HUTS, AND THEIR DRUNKEN LOOKING GRANARIES

THE MOUNTAIN RANGES EAST OF MYERU S

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 173

We adjourned to the shade. It turned out that the
young man was the sultan. The old fellow was his
father. Asked why thus, he repUed, through an in-
terpreter:

" I am old and not strong, and Hke my chair and my
pipe, and not to work. So I make shaiiri with the
Deutsche that my son be sultan." Abdication, in
short.*

We went into the matter of men and potio. Twelve
loads of potio promised, and seven men. This took two
hours of talk. It seems the Germans have undertaken
a new port at Musoma (on Victoria Nyanza), to take
the place of Shirati,! and they have sent their native
askaris in even this far and drafted all the ablebodied
men. They must require a lot, to have cast through
the thickly settled lake peoples to this remote place.

The shanri was diversified by the time-honoured
rupee trick, the opera hat, and Bachelder's sword cane.
We also tried to buy the old man 's pipe. No go. At
last said the old man :

''The great master, when he came to Shirati and
called in the sultans" (fifteen years ago, Cuninghame
says), "wanted to buy this pipe. But when I die then
my son will smoke it."

* In view of subsequent similar arrangements I am inclined to think that
the German poHcy has been to depose the older chiefs in favour of their sons
in order that the government might the more readily handle them. As all
parties seem hai>py and satisfied with the arrangement — whatever it is—
the transfer must have been diplomatically made.

t Owing to the encroachments of sleeping sickness at the latter port.

174 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

True example of an heirloom, a very unusual thing
with negroes.

I was very much amused, too, with a lot of women
working with hoes. They plied them vigorously in
unison to a song, and every once in a while held them
aloft like standards and went running around in a
circle, shrieking at the tops of their lungs. Certainly
they took their labours lightly! After a time they
dropped their hoes and danced down to me, clashing
their heavy anklets in time to their chant. One damsel
was the leader and did a pas seul, better not described,
while the others did a background chorus. She ended
the show by kneeling in front of me and sorting out
from some fold of her garment a tiny and unsuspected
infant. Thank goodness I had my camera on my knee,
so she could not put it in my lap, which was apparently
her intention. Of course the shauri ceased while this
row went on. Then the sultan made a very slight
motion of his head, and they vanished. He is boss,
all right!

Ended by presenting him a safety razor and two blades
with a promise of magnificent gifts when his part of the
contract should be fulfilled.

Targeted my rifle, and readjusted the sights that
had been so badly knocked over.

Ate before a wonderful prospect out across the sweep
of the valley to hills that turned amethystine in the
evening light. A woman with a wistful and pathetic

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 175

expression came and knelt before us holding out in two
toil-hardened hands a bowl of milk. She continued
kneeling there quite humbly while Ali took the milk,
nor could we get a word out of her, nor a change of ex-
pression. We put a whole string of blue beads in the
bowl, and she bowed very low, and arose and van-
ished.

Five hours; march 7^ miles; hunt 5I miles; elevation,
4,300; morning, 70; noon, 80; night, 64. Heavy rain
and thunder in evening.

September 13. — Cuninghame is consumed with a
desire to scout for elephants in some far western dis-
trict, and I am equally desirous of exploring to the
south. As it is desirable to do both, we have agreed to
separate for three weeks, meeting at a rumoured ford
on the Mara. When we came to make up chop boxes,
found we were short of some things, so had to wait to-
day while men went back to relay up what the dead
donkeys ought to be carrying.

Ali came to report:

''There is no tea, there is no oatmeal, there is no
sugar," said he — three essentials.

Said I ironically, "Have we plenty of anything? "

"Yes, " said Ali innocently, "plenty of soap."

Cuninghame went off to another village in hopes of
recruits, I out for gift meat. Of course everything was
very wild. Missed a wildebeeste in high grass at 350
yards, then dropped a zebra at 280. Turned him over

176 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

to a rejoicing swarm of savages, and went home by a
detour, just to enjoy the groves of red-flowering trees.
They are quite large, with no leaves now, and deco-
rated all over with pompoms from which depend
feathery streamers, all of the finest scarlet, without a
trace of pink or yellow tone in it.

In the afternoon visited the palace yard, where I
achieved great popularity by means of the rupee trick,
a few small gifts, and a number of simple jokes. A
minute infant with a tremendous corporation I chris-
tened "Bwana Tumbo, " which was received by all
with roars of delight, and I think the name will stick.
We had quite a sociable afternoon-tea sort of time.

Returning, I saw people coming in with the meat.
One group consisted of father, mother, and small boy
about four years old. The latter carried proudly on
his head a very tiny piece of meat. He was getting "all
nice and bluggy," just like papa and mamma.

The water safari of women went through camp, each
with a gourd on her head according to size of bearer,
the very tiniest little girls having small gourds holding
a pint or so. They went by very straight, single file,
paying no attention to the remarks of the porters.

Cuninghame back at three o'clock with no luck re-
cruiting. The evening was enlivened by an n^goma at
the palace. They had two drums, a deep one and a
shrill one, and they played varied tunes, and chanted
in unison until they got excited enough. Then they

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 177

yelled. M'ganga, his conventional soul outraged by
the row, went up and told them they must stop, that
the bwanas wanted to sleep ! For sheer nerve that took
the cake, but he got away with it. He might have
been speared, but they actually called off the festivi-
ties!

Morning, 62; noon, 71; night, 66. Rain in evening.

September 14. — Sent eight men back to help our
donkeys with stores. Cuninghame took fourteen
and went elephant scouting for three weeks. I took
nine regular porters and six savages and struck south.
We were also accompanied by half a dozen of the sul-
tan's men for meat. Shortly I got a chance and
dropped two topi before the little herd drew beyond
range. Passed many houses,* and so out across a
beautiful green plain about four miles in diameter.
Wildebeeste and topi in great numbers were all about,
but very wild, due probably to being driven by the
savages.

Myeru's head man with two followers had kept on
with us, although most of the rest of his men had
dropped back with the meat. He still lived in hopes.
Now he moved up to my elbow. With painstaking care
he pointed out to me each perfectly obvious herd. I re-
mained impervious to hints. About noon he sighed

*This country must have been long at peace, judging from the number of
isolated homes built out everywhere. That it has not always been so is
sufficiently proved by the ruins of old villages perched high and fortified
in the rocks.

1 78 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

deeply, salaamed, and sadly departed for the Sultan
Myeru's village, followed by his henchmen.

The growth surrounding the round grass plains
proved to be scattered small trees with white trunks,
like poplars or birches. Below them the grass grew
short and green, like a lawn; and over the grass were
scattered white and pink flowers. We wanted to camp
near the plain in order to examine the game thereon.
Fortunately a short search brought us to a waterhole.
We pitched camp beneath the shadiest of the little
trees.

Very hot at noon, as the air is moist. At 3 130 went
out scouting. Enjoyed the walk, and saw plenty of
game, but of only a few species. Parenthetically, these
few are all there are to be had in this especial district.
Wildebeeste lead — I have nowhere seen so many; topi
a close second; and zebra a bad tliird. Also there is a
fair sprinkling of impalla, oribi, and, in one place, roan.
Dropped a zebra at 250 yards with three shots, as Hon
bait; and topi at 130 as camp meat.

March four and a half hours; 10 miles; hunt, 5 miles;
morning, 64; noon, 84; night, 71.

CHAPTER XV

September 15. — Last evening the lions began roar-
ing very soon after dark. They were somewhere to
the westward and a considerable distance away; but
their reverberating calls carried distinctly to us. There
were a number of them, and they were doing what I
used to call "curate-response" roaring. That is to
say, one would begin just before his predecessor left
off; so that a continuous pulsating volume of sound
rolled across the night. It was a good deal like a long
freight train crossing a pecuUarly resonant bridge; or
the droning of a distant twelve-inch shell.

From the first heavy sleep that falls on the tired
tropical voyageur — when sleep visits him at all— I
was aroused by a burst of noise. Raising myself on my
elbow, I found that the beasts were much nearer — say
at the top of the low ridge a mile away. They were
monopolizing the whole world of sound. Even the in-
sects seemed to have fallen into the dead silence that
prudence or terror had imposed on the rest of the
veldt. I tried to make out how many of the lions
there were, but was unable to distinguish clearly; I
thought there were three. Then, in spite of myself, I
fell into a doze. The magnificent organ tones per-

179

i8o THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

sisted in my consciousness; became fantastic; mingled
with dreams; faded into distant thunder,

I was jerked back from sleep by a roar that seemed
to shake the tent. The men were chattering together
in subdued tones; and I could see against my canvas
the flickering of replenished little fires before the men 's
tents. This one mighty roar had for the moment ter-
minated the concert. A dead blank sUence had fallen
on the world. Leaning on my elbow, I hstened in-
tently. I could for a moment hear nothing. Then
came the sound of a steady lap lap lap of a beast drink-
ing. They were actually watering at our little water-
hole just outside the camp-lines !

There was nothing to be done; and no particular
danger. The situation was interesting, that was all.
In about ten minutes the lions withdrew. I fell asleep
again; but through my dreams I could hear them oc-
casionally, voicing their satisfaction — or dissatisfaction
— as they slowly retired. Never before had I heard lions
roar so persistently.

Next morning, eating my breakfast as usual before
daylight, I talked it over with Memba Sasa. We
agreed it was about time to go lion hunting. Memba
Sasa thought there were four of them. Subsequent
events proved him correct.

We took with us every man in camp, with the ex-
ception of the cook and Ali ; just in case we might have
to beat cover. i^^The game had drawn close about us

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

l8l

in the night. Within the first 200 yards 1 counted
twenty-six topi and wildebeeste. For three hours we
ranged and quartered the undulating hills. There was
plenty of several sorts of game ; but no lions.

"Memba Sasa," said I, "if we find lions here, it is
just luck. There are very many waterholes and very
many pieces of cover. Lions could drink anywhere,
and lie down anywhere; and unless we had great luck
we would not run across them."

While I was saying these words a lioness thrust her
head up from a clump of small bush twenty yards ahead
of us. Some of the porters saw her first, and raised a
great fuss. I had the .405 Winchester in my hand and
immediately took a shot at the middle of her chest.
She flipped backward off the ant heap on the top of
which she had been lying. A flying shot missed her as
she fell. She whirled back from the edge of the thicket
and charged at me, snarling with rage, but before she
had hit her stride three rapidly delivered shots stopped
her.

Almost the same instant a male lion emerged from
the other side of the thicket and trotted slowly away.
Evidently he had not seen us, but the noise and row
had disturbed his siesta, and he was going to a more
peaceful locality. We thought we caught a glimpse of
a lioness just ahead of him ; but could not be sure.

We trotted along after, tr\'ing to strike a happy
medium in speed that would take us near enough to

i82 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

catch the beast's attention, and still leave me wind
enough to shoot straight. I had exchanged the .405
for the Springfield, for I expected the first shots would
be at fairly long range. Inside a few hundred yards
the thin bush ceased. We emerged on a tiny open
plain, grown sparsely with sapling-sized trees, on the
other side of which were more thickets, perhaps a
quarter mile away. Here the lion caught sight of us
and stopped abruptly. The lioness, too, came to a halt
and turned sidewise the better to inspect us. They
were then about 1 50 yards distant.

We stopped next one of the small saplings. Memba
Sasa moved up next my elbow. At what stage of the
game the rest of the men took to the trees I do not
know. Pretty promptly, I should think. At any rate,
those trees fairly rained niggers after the row was over.

I waited a few moments to steady down after our
short run. The two beasts held their positions, side on,
staring back at us. When my heart had quit thumping
I took as close a shot as I could at the Hon, and hit him
very near the middle of the shoulder. With a snarhng
growl he leaped straight up in the air, then turned to
bite savagely at the wound. The lioness did not stir.

My attention concentrated on the wounded beast, I
threw back and forth the bolt of my weapon in order
to get in another shot before he came to himself. I
was on the point of taking aim when Memba Sasa
touched my elbow.

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 183

^'Angalia bwana, simba m^kubwa sana" ("Look,
master, see the very big one!"), he breathed.

I looked. From behind the screen of thin bush to
the left sauntered the most magnificent wild lion I had
ever seen. His yellow mane hung thick and long half-
way to his knees, and extended far along his back. His
head was up, and his sleepy, wise face expressed digni-
fied surprise.

It is well known to African hunters that wild lions
rarely carry heavy manes. A good proportion of the
adult males are of the maneless variety ; while those that
have manes lose a great deal of them in thorns and in
the bush. No wild lion ever quite equals in this respect
the pampered and sheltered menagerie specimens any
more than the latter can compete with their wild
kindred in size. At this time I had killed and helped
kill seventeen lions. Of that lot seven were males;
of the males two were maneless; and of the other five
only one had a fairly decent mane, and one what might
be called a reaUy good mane. But none equalled the
lordly old chap who stood before me. It was very bad
sense to ''take on" one lion before settling with the
other; but the temptation was too great. I put a Spring-
field bullet in his shoulder, too.

At the report of the rifle the lioness charged like a
flash. Nobody had said or done a thing to her. She
just wanted to prove that line about the ''female of the
species," I suppose.

1 84 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

Already I had two wounded lions on hand, but
evidently it was necessary to acquire another. My
bullet checked her nearly short up, from the mere shock
of impact. Out of the corner of my eye I had seen the
first lion, recovered from his catfit over being hit,
swing into his stride when the lioness started. Memba
Sasa was snuggled up to my elbow, chanting low- voiced
a sort of war song of his own. With my left hand I
snatched from him the .405, at the same time passing
the Springfield behind my back. He seized it in al-
most the same motion with which he handed up the
other gun. Good old Memba Sasa! Here, as always,
he played the game !

When I got back to camp an hour or so later I tried
to put down in my notebook exactly the sequence of
events. I put down something; but when a few weeks
later I start to write this journal more fully, subse-
quent recollections that float across my mind, frag-
mentary but very vivid, make me doubt whether I can
reproduce in my own mind an accurate sequence.
Therefore I will not try to put down in what order I
shot at those lions, nor where each several shot hit. I
do know that I shot at each of them in turn as it seemed
necessary to keep them checked. It was a good deal
like pushing eager puppies back into a kennel yard,
first one, then another, then another, then the first
one back at you again. A later count of cartridges ex-
pended showed that from the two rifles I fired eighteen

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 185

shots. Five of these were expended on the first lioness,
and four on the big one after the main battle was
over. So I must have used nine cartridges to stop the
charge. Of these I missed one.

It was absolutely necessary to keep cool; and I was
scared enough to do so; for I realized that if for a
minute fraction of an instant I allowed myself to lose
my grip, I would be stampeded. After all, in a really
hot corner, when a man is in a certain danger of his
life, he is too busy to analyze. And it is the man who
analyzes who gets rattled.

At any rate, we shot nine times, we shot pretty fast,
and we shot accurately. That is solely because we had
to. I used the two rifles alternately, for I had some sort
of notion of keeping both magazines full. Memba
Sasa went on crooning his war song, and loading like a
machine. The second lion collapsed early in the game
and about 100 yards away. The lioness came close in,
but was crippled for keeps at about fifteen yards. The
big lion had stopped sixty yards distant and was sitting
on his haunches staring about him. He had been
badly hit, but was in no immediate distress. I have a
notion that he had not yet located us behind our little
sapling, or perhaps was a trifle dazed by the impact of
the bullet, and had charged with his two companions,
following their lead.

Now I am perfectly aware that a wounded lion
charges. Exceptions are so rare as only to prove the

i86 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

rule. But I have always cherished a theory that even
a wounded lion can be bluffed out, provided the man
does the charging first, before the beast can gather his
faculties. Here was a heaven-given opportunity to try
that out.

So I took the .405, stepped out from our sapling, and
began to walk steadily toward him.

If I had stood still in his sight for the instant neces-
sary for him to see what I was, he would have come in;
for he was hurt and angry. But he had not that in-
stant. Holding my rifle ready for immediate action, I
advanced on him at an even gait. He saw me at once,
and fixed on me his great yellow eyes.

He sat thus absolutely still while I covered about
half the distance between us. In my mind I had fixed
upon a certain little bush twenty yards or so from the
lion as the point at which I should begin to shoot. When
I still had half a dozen yards to go, the intentness of
his gaze broke. He began to act exactly as a dog
does when he is embarrassed, glancing down, now to
right, now to left. At twenty-five yards the pressure
became too great. He suddenly turned and bolted!
And I missed a hasty shot at him as he ran!

Mind you his nerve was not broken, for within 100
yards or so he rounded to in a small clump of brush,
whence he charged desperately. Only, as I say, the
pressure was too steady and too persistent for so
nervously organized an animal to endure.

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 187

We had no difficulty in locating the spot at which he
had stopped. He was growUng nastily in his throat;
loudly, in crescendo, on the intake of the breath; slowly,
with a sort of gurgling undertone, as he exhaled. The
leaves concealed him. We walked forward to within
thirty or forty yards then began to edge to right and
left a few inches at a time, trj^ing to get a sight of him.
It was very nervous work. We dared not get off bal-
ance for a single instant.

How long exactly this lasted I do not know. The
beast was lashing himself up: and his growling and
snarling were working up to the point of explosion.
Suddenly, so suddenly that for a fleeting instant I was
almost paralyzed by the surprise of it, he broke from
the cover and launched himself at us.

This is, in my opinion, the supreme moment in a
hunter's life, the moment when, all prelimiaaries at an
end, the lion makes his direct and deadly attack. The
httle unessentials are brushed aside. Only remains
the big primitive idea to fill all a man's mind — kiQ or
be killed. The preliminary maneuverings have made
him nervous and jumpy enough to scream aloud;
but now all his faculties fall into battle array. He
becomes deadly cool. Each of the few movements nec-
essar>' to bring his weapon into play he executes with
what seems to him an almost deliberate precision. A
smouldering, repressed emotion fills all his being; it is
not exactly anger, but something like it, rather a feel-

i88 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

ing of antagonism, a pitting of forces and skills. He
delivers each shot with an impact of nervous force be-
hind it, as though he were to strike with his own hands.
''Take that ! take that ! take that ! " his mind seems to it-
self to mutter; though of course he has really no time
nor attention to waste on articulation. And beneath
all this is a great wary alertness that sits like a captain
in a conning tower, spying cannily over all the situation
as it develops, poised ready to plan competently for the
unexpected.

Excited, in the usual sense of the word? No. But
alive to the uttermost of all his faculties at once?
Yes. That is why the moment is supreme.

I killed that lion with three shots, the last delivered
at eight paces. He was considerably slowed by his
previous wounds, but he made a gallant fight. Each
blow stopped him short; but he gathered himself and
came on. He rolled over at last: stone dead.

Returning, we found the first lion dead when my
second shot had caught him just under the chin. I do
not know just which rifles did what, except in the case
of the first few shots, as after one or two shots I always
handed them back for reloads, desiring always as full
magazines as possible.

The row must have been appalling, though we had
no chance to notice it, for every beast was snarling and
growling and roaring without limit, and the rifle fire
was pretty rapid. Fired five shots from the .405 at

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 189

the first, and seven .405 's and six Springfields at the
second lot. Hit number one four times, the smaller
lion twice, lioness twice, big fellow seven. The smaller
lion has an ordinary mane, but the big fellow's is so
thick and long that I could hardly get the alum water
to run down into it, even by parting the hair. These
two are far and away the finest wild lions I have ever
seen either in the flesh here or as skins in London.

All the rest of the day and far into the evening was
spent in preparing the skins. On the way home saw a
few guinea fowl, the first for a long time. When we
went to take our flag off the lion bait this evening we
found the savages had made way with all the meat!
They left the flag.

This camp is infested by a yellow and black striped
fly, with a loud buzz, that occupies about a cubic foot
of air space in which he hikes frantically back and
forth in zigzags. And you cannot hit him; it's been
tried.

Rigged a sort of jury tent to hang the skins in.
Heard leopard and hyena and lions far off; but I
think we have the lot near here.

Morning, 60; noon, 90; night, 72.

CHAPTER XVI

September i6. — Spent the morning in a long scout
to the hills southeast. Saw much game of the three
species, with a heavy run of wildebeeste, of which I got
some good herd pictures. From a height we looked
down on another country similar to our own, with
three of the bright green plains in sight. On each fed
black herds, and through our glasses we could make
out savages stalking across. Near camp I killed a
wildebeeste for meat, at 172 yards. After lunch took
my chair in the shade and wrote for a while. When I
came to get up I found it absolutely impossible to
straighten my back. The muscles refused to work,
and the slightest movement even of an inch or two was
accompanied by severe pain. After an hour, by slow
degrees, I managed to help myself upright and got into
camp. There sat in my chair. Unable to reach out
or down, even to get a saltcellar, without the most
severe pain. I could, however, sit quiet in a chair
with no more than a bad ache, so I did so, and watched
a beautiful sunset with clouds of mauve and a very
blue slate. No temperature, and appetite fine ; so con-
clude it is like a bad stiff neck, only just below the

small of the back: probably lumbago. Got to bed

190

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 191

ridiculously, an inch at a time, lying on my side on the
tent floor, and worrying my clothes off poli-poli*

Morning, 62; noon, 90; night (?).

September 17. — Bad night owing to severe aches.
Found this morning the curious fact that ordinary
body movements, such as rising and walking, are ordi-
narily conducted by a certain limited amount of will
power sent out automatically by the brain. I say
"Rise," and the brain repeats the order to the muscles.
Then if the muscles are out of order, they fail to re-
spond, send back a sharp pain message, and the brain
tells me, "You cannot rise." But then if you take
charge yourself, instead of leaving it to automatic
action, and concentrate your will on each and every
separate movement necessary to rise, you can do it.
All you have to do is to break firmly through the pain
protest. As soon as I found that out, I resolved to
move camp, for the possibiUties of this place are well
scouted. No temperature, appetite good; no reason
for not moving except the ridiculous one that it hurts
like blazes. So I got two long sticks, and started out
to do one step at a time. Very tiring work, of course,
both on account of severe pain, and because of the extra
expenditure of will power. But then, one needn't
go so far. We crossed the green plain, entered another
birch-like strip of woods, and came to the other

* This attack was probably due to congestive chill. I still have traces of it,
nearly a year later.

192 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

stream bed that I knew must flow past Ikorongo. And
there, placed to order, were two zebra. When I came
to abandon my two sticks, and hold a rifle out, how-
ever, I found that the position and weight seemed
at first prohibitive. However, I got it level at last,
managed to hold it steady for an instant, and downed
the zebra at 225 yards (Memba Sasa stepped it). Put
a flag on him, went on a bit, and made camp. Saw one
lone Nakuru hartebeeste near camp, the only one in
the whole country, I think. Got out my chair and sat
down! Rested all afternoon, while the gimbearers
scouted certain country I designated. They reported
roan on a hill, not much game, and no other water as
far as they went. In the evening I sat by the camp-
fire and watched some wierd, bat-like birds wheeling
and turning rapidly and silently overhead. They looked
like imps of darkness, for their wings trailed long
fluttering feathers, like the conventional devil's
wings.

Two and one half hours; 3 miles; elevation, 3,950;
morning, 62; noon, 86; night, 72. Rugee 's birthday.
Drank him a silent toast — in tea — and wondered where
the good old boy is.

September 18. — A very aching and restless night.
Was called a half- hour earlier than usual to allow time
for the slow process of dressing. Found my condition
much the same, except that the pain goes into the hip-
joints as well. However, got my sticks and we went to

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 193

look at the lion bait, which was untouched. A Uttle
farther on I jumped a Bohur reedbuck with a most re-
markable head. Fortunately he stood long enough for
me to go through the very slow process of getting into
position, and I managed to land him in the ribs just
back of the heart. About 100 yards. It did not stop
him, however, but slowed him down so we could keep
him in sight. Stalking was, of course, out of the
question, but I kept after him until he went over a
little hill. Arriving at the top of this, I saw him below
me, loping heavily along, and by good luck hit him
again at 125 yards. He is a real prize, and also this
was meat day. After this ran into some oribi in grass
and missed them eight times, but as they are next to
dik-dik for smaUness this did not depress me, in the cir-
cumstances. Shortly after saw an impalla. Could not
get near him, but was willing to take a chance. Missed
first at about 250 yards. Then he partly faced me,
and I broke his hind leg. Then hit him in the ribs at
317, which was sheer luck.

Meat enough assured, I returned to camp, after three
hours. Retired to tent, and had mosquito canopy up
account of flies. Wrote log and read. Hard to get
comfy, as any position aches, and any change of po-
sition hurts like blazes.

About four o'clock the sky overcast, so I resolved to
scout a bit down river. That would finish what I
wanted to know about this country, and enable me to

194 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

work back to Myeru's. Made a two-hour walk, and
had a flurry of rain, but found no good prospects.

The nature of the country is most beautiful, and I
must try to describe it. Conceive a perfectly flat
green lawn of indefinite extent; the grass short as
though mown; nowhere, even next the trees, growing
into high ragged clumps. Plant this lawn sparingly
with small trees with white trunks, like birch trees, far
enough apart not to spoil the open appearance, but
thick enough to close in the view at quarter of a mile.
Then scatter over this lawn flowers that grow flat to
the ground, with barely an inch of stem to support
them, so that they give the impression of having been
scattered fresh cut. They are four petaUed, velvet in
texture, the exact shape and size of a wild rose. Most
of them are white, but a very few range in colour from
deep red to pale pink. Across the sweeps and flats
they lie spangling the turf sparsely; but in tiny de-
pressions they are as though drifted. In addition to
these are occasional other flowers, high growing, with
stems, some flesh coloured, some brightred and upstand-
ing, some orange and yellow, and some with feathery
leaves trailing vine-like along the ground. But they
are not abundant enough to modify the effect of the
others which always remind me of one line of Omar's:
"star-scattered on the grass."

Just before camp I ran across the same lone Nakuru
hartebeeste I had seen in the morning, and warned by

AN EXTRAORUINARV EXAMPLi: ol >li I H 111 n I \K M'll.S. THIS
MAN CARRIED A LOAD FOR US TllROLGU A THICKET COUNTRY

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 195

their growing scarceness that I might not collect my
one remaining specimen, I put a .405 in his shoulder at
122 yards.

Our savages are very keen for used cartridges, and
this being larger than the Springfield, was to them an
especial prize.

Usual storm in evening.

Morning, 66; noon, 87; night, 70.

September 19. — A leopard hung all night near camp,
and we had hopes of him at the bait, but found it de-
voured by hyenas. Packed up and were off at 6:40.
Safari could beat me all hollow travelling, for while I
can now abandon one staff and have taken to Mr.
Bachelder's cane, it is very tiring and painful to move
at all, and any Httle twist or unexpected hummock
drops me as if I have been shot.

The display of flowers in crossing the valley seemed
even more beautiful than that of yesterday. Passed
two villages, whose head men came out to speak to me.
The latter one followed me to Myeru's begging meat,
but I had my own men to think of and could not turn
off to hunt. He carried two unfortunate chickens in-
tended as a bribe, but as he soon saw I did not pur-
pose answering his plea, he thriftily bartered them to
the men instead.

At one place, while watching the antics of some very
large gray monkeys, I happened to glance down and
saw a lot of peanut shells! I rubbed my eyes and

196 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

looked also for the pink lemonade. It seems that pea-
nuts are a staple of the country. Bought some and
had them roasted.

At the end of three and a half hours got in to our old
camp and found Dolo, Sulimani, the Toto, all four
donkeys, and the eight men all well and very glad to see
us. The sultan, having duly impressed me before by
his gorgeousness, now appeared in a blanket.* He had
seven loads of potio ready out of the thirteen promised.
I called him up and very firmly informed him that un-
less the other six were forthcoming by evening he would
get the price only, and no backshish. This stirred him,
and I saw messengers running off in all directions, to
return at the end of a few hours followed by a slave or
so bearing a greater or lesser amount of meal. By
eight o'clock all was in but two loads. He sent word
that was all he could get. I, sitting among pillows,
sent a stern message that the rest must come or no
backshish. About nine he brought in the last, which
he said had been prepared for his own household. I
counted out the thirteen rupees payment, added five
rupees and a folding knife, and left him satisfied.

One of our men is greatly given to decoration. The
other day he found some white tree pollen with which
he daubed his face in a manner ghastly to behold.
This evening he appeared with the feathers of the in-

*This seems the frugal custom of most Central African sultans. One
dazzling appearance, and the finery is put away.

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 197

tended gift chickens stuck every which way over his
head, like Tom o' Bedlam. Shot a lucky topi near camp
at 232 yards.

Three and a half hours; 10 miles; morning, 67; noon,
85; night, 71.

September 20. — Have had a lot of fever among the
men of late, and had to hold an extra clinic this morn-
ing.* Left Myeru's at 6:40 after considerable manena
with the savage porters, who as usual wanted to quit.
Got them going by combination of threats and promises.
Long march, or it seemed to me long, down the length
of the hills, then over, through, and between the smaller
cones, kopjes, and ridges with which the system ends.
Lots of green parrots that fly very fast with a rapid,
whirring, quail-like method of going. Native villages
everywhere, and isolated shambas. Country open and
grassy, with rock outcrops and little groves and scat-
tered trees.

I had my canvas chair carried for me, and rested in
it often. At one point the safari caught and passed me,
thus resting, and went on over the hills. They evi-
dently thought I was safe for a while, for no sooner
were they over the summit than they threw down their
loads. It was still an hour till rest time, and this was
sheer impudence. By luck I happened to go on very
shortly and caught them at it. Then I waded into
them, striking at their shins with my stick. They

* The official time for doctoring is just before the evening meal-

1 98 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

knew themselves in the wrong and dodged here and
there, laughing considerably, and trying to dodge in
under my blows to get hold of their loads. This was
an easy matter, as I could not get around in very lively
fashion. Then they went off down the trail at double
quick time, and never offered to lay down a load imtil
the very end of the journey — a tremendous march.
It shows what they can do when they get to it.

We saw many villages and houses perched up in the
hnis. At one place the people were just starting to put
up a new house. The skeleton of the roof was being
raised on the end of a centre pole, a good deal like a big
umbrella. After it was in place they proceeded to
fasten the sides beneath it. These people drive all
their flocks inside the houses at night. It must be
warm and cozy, to say the least ! Twenty or thirty
animals, a dozen human beings, no ventilation what-
ever, and a tropical climate!

At last we stopped on the wide slope of the last hiU,
which dipped down to the Mara River and then grad-
ually up again to the escarpment twenty miles or so
away. It was one of those wide sweeping views pe-
culiar to our southwest and some parts of Africa, with
small slate-blue kopjes rising from milky distance, and
then the dark ranges. I made camp in the guest
camp of the village, or collection of villages belonging
to a sultan named Missambi. The main house had
no side walls, but instead a sort of picket fence half-

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 199

way up, like an old-fashioned summer house. I had
my ground sheet, bed, and box put in here, and I could
lie on my cot, fully protected from the sun, get all the
breeze, and watch the lights change and soften on the
ranges. The only objection to it as a camp-site was
the fact that the nearest water was about a mile dis-
tant; but that is usual with African villages. The
women have to carry it; and I suppose woman's time
is considered valueless.

After what was to one in my condition a pretty hard
march, I did not feel a whole lot like social persiflage;
but that was part of the job. Therefore I propped my-
self up in my bed and gave Ali the signal to let in only
those in authority. They came, the elders of the
village, grizzled, dignified old men, followed by slaves
carrying offerings of eggs, milk, native flour, and pea-
nuts. They greeted me formally, and told me the
sultan had gone to walk around, but that word had
been sent that I had arrived. I opened a long shauri
for porters, giving my usual elaborate speech and
offering one rupee a head bonus for each man brought
to me who would do good cazi for a month. Then I
summoned Ali and had him serve them coffee in the
kitchen.

About an hour later, while I was writing the log, a
small boy of about ten years old, dressed in a piece of
snow-white Mericani and wearing a tarboush, came
around. I glanced at him, said "hullo, toto,^^ and

200 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

went on writing. After a while one of the porters,
passing, said to him, "What do you want here? "

"I want to see the white man, mimi sultanV * This
infant was potentate of a dozen villages I

Well, I had him in then, you may be sure, and we
exchanged lofty civilities. He had quite an idea of
dignity, stood very erect, answered in straightforward
fashion, and spoke excellent Swahili. While we were
in high converse a row broke out between Ali and the
man supposed to carry water. The latter, a Wakamba
named Mooli, I have been watching for a week, as he
has been getting lazy and above himself. Now he
was claiming it was far to water, he was tired, etc.,
although this was his cazi, and Ali was having diffi-
culty in moving him. I yelled for him to shut up and
do his work; and as he did not immediately move, got
up and went out. He seized the bucket and ran down-
hill a short distance, then stopped and began to jaw
at me.

This was rank insubordination, and every head was
turned to see what I would do about it. My physical
condition prevented the usual procedure, which would
have been to knock him down on the spot; so I put
into a command to return all the will force I possessed,
at the same time looking at him sternly. It was much
as one would compel a reluctant dog. He hesitated,
then slowly obeyed.

* I am the sultan.

vX MISSAMBI — IN WHITE — AND ONE OF HIS COURTIERS

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^IM^^Bb^H^B^^^^B^^ ''^^^^^fc

g^^^

'17-. '' iL^^lF^ni^^^^^H

THESE GIRLS ARE ALL THE AFFIANCKU WIVES OF MISSAMBI. THE WHITE

PAINTING INDICATES THAT THE CIRCUMCISION CEREMONY IS ON

SEE PAGE 206

GRASS HUT NEAR MISSAMBI S VILLAGE IN WHICH I TOOK UP MY

HEADQUARTERS

SEE PAGE 199

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 201

He took his kiboko badly, struggling and shouting at
the men who were holding him ; and on being released
he jumped to his feet and started off downhill on a run.

"Where are you going?" I shouted after him.

He snarled something back in Wakamba, which I do
not understand.

"He says he's going to Nairobi," three or four men
instantly volunteered.

"Seize him!" I commanded.

A dozen porters started in pursuit, but he gained on
them at every step. By now he was several hundred
yards away, and at every moment nearing the cover.
Two of Missambi's men, wrapped in goatskins, stood
near. I caught their eager, questioning glance and
motioned an assent. Instantly they dropped their
robes and darted away, fine pictures of lithe, naked
savagery. These people are certainly runners! They
bounded easily; but within a half mile they had passed
all my men, and within a few hundred yards after that
they had seized MooU. The whole lot surged about
him in a frenzied, shouting mass. For a moment I
was afraid in their excitement they might actually do
murder; and I cursed again the wretched back that
held me here. In a moment or so, however, they headed
on the return to camp.

Everybody was super-excited, jabbering away madly,
running here and there. I had on my hands a fine ex-
plosive mixture of savagery that might go off at any

202 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

moment. It was no time for flash judgment nor quick
action, that was most certain.

While they were covering the distance of the return
journey I had Ali bring out my canvas chair, and es-
tabhshed myself and it beneath the shade of a tree.
Mooli's eyes were roUing. Two men struggled with
him. Evidently he was about ready to run amok.

Began by asking him innumerable questions requir-
ing a yes or no for answer; and insisted on getting
that answer. At first it was difficult; but after a time
I got his mind more or less focussed, which was what I
was after. " You were going to Nairobi? " "Do you
know the direction of Nairobi?" "Do you know that
Nairobi is two months' safari distant?" "Do you
know that on the road are many Masai who would
spear you?" "Do you know there is no food on the
road?" "Do you know that if you went to Nairobi
you would go to prison for two years?" (Sheer bluff,
of course.) "Do you know that even if you were to
hide in your tribe the askaris would find you? "

This interchange took time, and gave an opportunity
for everybody to calm down. At the end of it all the
bystanders were calm and listening with the deepest
attention. I could now venture on the didactic.

"You made kalele and ran away when you got
kiboko. When a safari boy gets kiboko and deserves it
he says nothing."

This is so true that a deep murmur of assent went up.

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 203

The community pride was touched. A general desire
to say something became evident.

"WeU, what is it, Fupi?"

Fupi: "This man is not a zanzibari:* he is a shenzi.'\
This is his first safari. He does not know the customs
of a safari."

By this I knew that one sHght danger — that of
mutiny — was past. The men, touched in their pro-
fessional pride, were ready to repudiate the culprit.

I (grimly) : "He will know more of them when I get
through with him."

Nods of approbation.

Of course my usual procedure, and the one that
would be expected of me, would be to inflict exemplary
punishment with the kiboko. I did not, however, think
the man would stand it in his present frame of mind.
However, discipline must be maintained.

"If this were a real safari man, I should give him
fifty maramoja.'^ (Nods and whispers, "Yes,'*
"That would be just," etc.) "But as he is not a
safari boy I will be easy with him. If he ever again
makes any more manena he gets twenty-five the first
time and fifty the next. But this time I will merely
fine him one month's wages. Bassi! Now, take those
pails and go get water! " Off trots my wild man, meek
as Moses, and he has been a good boy ever since.

* Professional porter,
t Savage.

204 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

Ali now rises and makes a short, formal speech. ''The
bwana understands safaris. The bwana has been on
many safaris. When men do their work well, bwana
is good; but when they do their work badly, then he is
kali Sana. "*

Well pleased with all this because (a) this man needed
stiffening badly, (b) it showed the safari men that I
know my business, and, above all (c), the Ungruimi
were present and heard, and the affair has helped my
prestige with them.

I now retired to my cot. The sultan and his im-
mediate suite crowded in after me.

Missambi is a bright, intelligent boy of twelve or
thirteen, with a rather fine-cut face, big soft eyes, and
engaging manners. He has been thoroughly educated
by the Germans to read and write Swahili, and has been
taken to Shirati and Ikoma for short residences. In
consequence he knows a good deal of white men's in-
stitutions, and even described to me a bicycle, calHng
it a "gharri ya quenda'^ — "a vehicle for going." Evi-
dently he has been trained by the Germans to rule
under German supervision. His ''right-hand man " and
general playmate is a boy of about his o\vn age, a
youth with a broad, square forehead quite out of the
usual negro type. His immediate influences are: first,
a young man of about twenty-five or so, an eager, cal-
culating, energetic, politic, rather truculent individual;

* Verj' fierce.

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 205

and, second, an elderly man of the old school, crafty,
scheming, autocratic, cherishing a veiled hostility to
the white domination, having no Swahili. Missambi,
poor boy, was thus divided in mind between his natu-
rally friendly disposition and desire to follow his orders
and the strong influence the elders of his own family
can always exert over a boy of that age. As yet he
possessed little real authority over his people. His
orders were diluted through the wishes of his two older
guardians or relations. That they had any effect at all
was due somewhat to traditional respect for the heredi-
tary chieftain, but principally to the very genuine awe
with which the Germans have succeeded in inspiring
their savage tribes.

The old man visited me once, and only once. We
exchanged formal speeches through an interpreter,
proffered each other small presents, he made his salaam
and departed. The younger man, however, was always
about. He had an eye for the main chance, and got
everything he could from money to medicine. That
he did not get more was not for lack of asking. He
was exceedingly officious, and on the surface eager to be
of service; but I am certain that underneath the surface
of things his influence was quite as strongly against
us.

We did our time-worn tricks amid great applause —
the opera hat, the disappearing coin, the sword cane,
the image in the reflex camera, etc. Also, by a happy

2o6 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

thought, I got out the scissors and cut out paper dolls
— the sort done from a folded paper, all hold of hands.
These were a great success. Each savage had to have
a row of them. It was certainly a ridiculous sight —
these armed grown men dangling little paper figures
up and down in an n'goma* After these preliminaries
we got down to business. I wanted eggs, information,
and fifteen men to carry loads. The eggs were promised
at once ; the information (false) was immediately forth-
coming; the men would have to be sent for, but would
surely be here to-morrow. I then instructed Ali to
give them coffee at the cook camp. Thus rid of the
lot, I enjoyed well-earned peace.

Memba Sasa and a savage had been out all afternoon
scouting for alleged Uganda cob. He came in very dis-
gusted, reporting nothing but impalla, and mighty few
of them. I suspect the Ungruimi names for cob and
impalla are the same; and hence the misunderstand-
ing. So there goes one fond hope !

In the dusk of evening a weird and ghastly proces-
sion came down past us, eight or ten girls painted white
from crown to toe and variously streaked in wavery
lines. I asked Missambi about them, and he proudly
told me those were his affianced brides, and that this
peculiar decoration was of the nature of our engage-
ment rings !

I am just settling to rest a bit when up come my

* Dance.

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 207

six savage bearers from Myeru's village and line up
outside. Call an interpreter.

"What do you want?"

"We want to go home."

This is the usual sporadic outbreak, and I give them
the usual reply:

"All right; go home. But then you get no wages at
aU."

As they have been with me some little time and
have done considerable work, this ought to settle it.
They hold a short shauri.

"All right," they decide; "we want no wages; we
want to go home."

This was a facer; for I need every man I can get
hold of. Nothing remains but to bluff. Of course I
know nothing whatever of poUtical conditions in this
(to me) new country; but I can make a shrewd guess.
I rise on my elbow and say sternly :

"If you go home now without finishing your cazi I
will teU the bwana m'kubwa at Shirati, and he will send
askaris and wiU take away your cattle."

The guess is a good one. They raise a wild shout, as
though in derision at themselves, and, quite cheer-
fully, retire.

This happens every once in a while, and I think
they merely want to be assured that they cannot go.

Then I treat a man for fever, another for too much
meat, a third for an infected small wound, and a fourth

2o8 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

for incipient ophthalmia. At last I have Ali bring
water; and then eat. All natives are banished by the
zealous Ali while this sacred rite goes on, both hands
outspread, shooing them off: "Go away! go away!
Cannot you see the bwana is going to take chakula?''^

Cuninghame and I live very simply and are healthy
in the tumho. Quaker oats, treacle, coffee, and corn-
cakes the invariable breakfast; meat, bread, and tea
for lunch; meat, one other dish (either lima beans, rice,
dehydro carrots, or corn), dried fruit, bread, and tea
for supper. Not much in variety, but great in quan-
tity.

I ate my meal, moved with difficulty to my little fire,
and sat smoking and thinking thoughts until a heavy
storm drove me in. The display of lightning was mag-
nificent, great, wide, jagged flashes that went not only
down and across, but even up in tridents!

Four and a half hours; 12 miles; elevation, 3,700;
morning 65; noon, 90; night, 74.

CHAPTER XVII

September 21. — I purported to-day sending back
four of my own men, six of Myeru's men, and ten
promised by Missambi to bring down the twenty loads
I had left at Myeru's. Missambi had faithfully
promised to have them here by six o'clock. Of course
they were not on hand, and finally I sent off my ten in
advance — it is a long round trip for one day. About
eight o'clock the sultan came in, accompanied by a
number of friends to whom he wanted to display the
wonders.

"Where are your men?" I demanded.

He explained in great detail that they were on their
way from another village. As it seemed necessary to
be poHtic, I accepted this — although I did not believe it
— and went through my gamut of tricks, ending, as
before, by cutting out paper dolls. With these they
were again immensely pleased.

Sent Memba Sasa to the river to look for hippo and
fords. WTiile he was gone I hobbled up to make a call
at the village.

This, as seems usual with the residences of these

Central African potentates, was less a village than a

collection of a few huts occupied by the leading spir-

209

2IO THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

its of the government and by the bodyguard. The
rulers appear generally to live apart from their sub-
jects. At times this is probably just as well. I have
gathered that Missambi is either the supreme ruler of
all the Ungruimi or controls a majority of the villages.
Certainly his sphere of influence seems much more ex-
tensive than that of either of the other kinglets to the
south. The younger of the prime ministers had me in
to look at a wife with a bad leg. It was a very bad leg,
the sore reaching down to the bone. I gave him a
small amount of antiseptic and directions, and in-
structed him to bring me at my camp a big water jar in
which I would mix a quantity of permanganate. He
seemed very grateful, and promised to bring the jar.
For some reason he never did so.

The village proper, which is over the hill, is very
large and scattered, and wealthy in cattle, sheep, goats,
and m'wembe.

Returned home, and tried to get as comfortable as
my aches would let me. Did some reading and writ-
ing, and enjoyed the landscape. Sent periodical mes-
sages to the sultan demanding men, and received always
the same answer— that they were coming from an-
other viUage. At twelve o 'clock four of them marched
in \mder charge of a head man, and I formally en-
tered them in the books. Missambi now sent word
that these were aU that would come in from outside,
but the others would be sent from his own village.

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 211

Memba Sasa returned reporting two practicable fords,
but no hippo.

At one o'clock, as no more men had come in, I re-
solved on a change of policy. Armed the gunbearers
and donkey men, and sent them up to the village with
a peremptor}^ statement that I wanted to see Missambi.
He came, with his prime ministers. To him I spoke
in substance as follows:

"You promised me ten men at daylight; it is now
afternoon and only four have come. Either you are
not acting right, or else you have no authority over
your people. When I get to Alusoma I shall tell this
to the bwana m'kubwa there. If he thinks you have
done wrong, he will send askaris and take from you
many cattle and two of your wives. If, on the other
hand, he thinks you have no authority, he will appoint
another sultan who can make the people obey."

I delivered this, at greater length, of course, in a very
stern and lofty tone. He listened, looking very' miser-
able, much like a small boy on the verge of tears. I
think, left to himself, he would have been quite amena-
ble. His chief advisers, however, looked as black as
thunder clouds, though they dared not say anything.

Having delivered the ultimatum — which was sheer
bluff and quite unauthorized — I would listen to no
reply, but dismissed them at once; and made a great
parade of my armed forces!

In ten minutes four more men came; I took down

212 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

their names and sent them off to Myeru's with two of
my own. Shortly after Memba Sasa came to me with
the startling news that a white man had arrived at the
sultan's. The only possible white man would be the
German official at Musoma or Ikoma, both many days'
travel distant, and I had never heard of their coming
this far in. This was decidedly awkward after my
recent bluff. Here I had been threatening in the name
of the German Government ; and behold ! the German
Government was on hand to repudiate me and resent
my unauthorized use of it ! I got out my glasses and
tried to get a sight of the man, but could only make
out his figure. I had Ali get out the one bottle of
whiskey and the box of German cigars.

At the end of half an hour a young fellow with a
wide hat and a green tie walked down the path. I
hobbled out to meet him. We eyed each other curiously.

"How are you?" said I at last.

At the English he brightened perceptibly and re-
turned my greetings. I suggested refreshments and
led the way. He told me he had lost his safari two
days before and asked if I had seen it. With him only
a bow-and-arrow savage carrying — -a bicycle! After
a lot of sparring it developed that my man was not a
German official at all but a fugitive trying to escape
from such officials over the British border. He had
killed illegally three elephants near Kilimanjaro — a
two months ' journey to the east — and had been dodg-

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 213

ing farther and farther toward the interior trying to find
a spot unguarded. He had lost his men, but hoped to
come up with them beyond the ford at Mara. He had
stopped at the sultan 's so long because he was afraid I
might be a German official.

He was very furtive and uneasy, a young Boer with
narrow, topaz-coloured eyes. Asked me if I was pros-
pecting.

''No; shooting."

"You can't have much to do," said he contempt-
uously.

"Nothing much, except helping fellows like you
along."

This cooked him. He departed in five minutes or so,
going hard, followed by his ugly shenzi with the bike
across his shoulders. He told me he would go to South
Africa, remain there a while, change his name, and
come back for the ivory.

"I buried it," he said, "and I don't care; I've made
my money!"

As three elephants could hardly afford a very large
fortune, and as his expenses would be heavy, this
sounded like bravado.

Heavy rain at six. Back and legs still bad, and
especially uncomfortable at night. There are many
hyenas here. They howl around the sheep bomas, and
each cry is instantly answered by a regular chorus of
bleating. Morning, 68; noon, 90; night, 75.

214 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

September 22. — Loafed all morning. Missambi has
recovered from his scolding, and has brought in eggs as
a peace offering. My back and legs somewhat better.
At noon, after lunch, while I was doctoring my various
patients, the relay came back, with the loads from
Myeru's; and almost immediately, to my great surprise,
Cuninghame 's safari topped the hill. I was indeed glad
to see him, for I had not expected him for ten days yet.

It will be remembered that my back hit me about
three o'clock in the afternoon: by ten next morning
Cuninghame, j^z^e days^ distant, was told all the details!
I had often heard tales of how rapidly and mysteri-
ously news travels in Africa; but I had never before
had an opportunity of experiencing the phenomenon.
Many explanations are offered, some of them pretty
fanciful, ranging from telepathic dreams to drum
signals. I have no explanation myself; but only a
tentative suggestion. Often I have noticed how the
native voice carries. Men working on hills on either
side of a wide, deep caiion will talk away to each other
all morning. In order even to attract attention I
would have to shout very vigorously. Whenever a
white man has a command to issue to a man at the
other end of camp he invariably tells one of his boys to
say it; otherwise he would have considerably to exert his
voice. The native speaks loudly and clearly, but with-
out yelling. I have heard it said that this is because
the African has a more open larynx than the white man.

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 215

Since this is so, I can see no reason why news cannot be
passed along from field to field, cover to cover, village
to village, simply as a matter of ordinary conversation.
The fact that the conversation is carried on at a range
of several hundred yards instead of a few feet has noth-
ing to do with the matter. The possibility of this
hypothesis is aided by the further fact that the Afri-
can has no fixed sleeping hours. Somebody is always
awake and talking, just as somebody is always sleeping.
If it strikes the native as a good idea to sit by a fire,
cook up a little something, and talk, he does so whether
the hour is 2 a. m. or 2 p. m. And it must be remembered
that in this country every little incident to do with so
strange a creature as a white man is a prime bit of
news.

In this way — or some other — Cuninghame knew I
was sick, and was told just my symptoms and what I
was doing for myself. His first thought was of the
deadly blackwater fever — that hits the back. So he
hastened to return.

His report was about the usual African thing. The
elephants dwelt in a huge papyrus swamp where they
were absolutely inaccessible. They came out once a
year. Then, provided you could bribe several villages
of the \\'irigi to take to the hills and keep away, you
got one shot. Then all the elephants went back into
the papyrus swamp! The country north of the IMara
is full of sleeping sickness, and therefore out of the

2i6 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

question. Two or three days' march west he struck a
powerful chief named WaUoba, who rides mules at 800
rupees per mule, and is generally a personage; and sold
our last four donkeys to him — when we shall arrive —
at 80 rupees. In his territory were buffalo; and Cun-
inghame had found out where.

We talked the matter over, then resolved to store the
bulk of our goods here with Missambi; to strike di-
rectly south in search of a river called the Ruwana or
Rubana where several people had told us many lions
were to be found; and then either to return here or to
Walioba's.

Accordingly we spent the afternoon making up loads,
interrupted by occasional heavy showers.

Morning, 65; noon, 95; night, 70.

CHAPTER XVIII

cuninghame's report

September 14. — Departed Table Mountain Camp
7:00 A. M. and marched sixteen miles (see map) to
Mitomeris. Passed prospector's camp en route and
had a half hour 's chat with him. He was working for
some German mining company and seemed not over
hopeful of his results. Had been there six months and
knew nothing whatever of his locahty, not even where
Shirati was or his owti position on the map. Bright boy,
this. Camped at big village named Kiamburi, bought
one load of posho, and found a man who has travelled
much all over German East Africa and British East
Africa. He reports elephant ahead in swamp, also cob,
but no buffs. The cook guide has given me posi-
tion of ferry all wrong, as there are two places named
Jamawi, and the one on the Mara River so named is
not the ferr>' place. Also have heard native rumours
of quarantine from ferry to Shirati which require look-
ing into. All natives go to Musoma for any business.
May get further news at next camp. Shot one kongoni
for meat {B. Neumanii)* Saw absolutely not a head
of game during march, and only three Neumanii here.

* This refers to the type 1 tentatively call Nakuru.

217

2i8 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

September 15. — Departed Kiamburi at 6:00 a. m.
and marched fourteen miles to camp near big swamp
(see map). Located position, but map seems all
wrong about the course of the Mara River. M 'ganga
found a friend who guided me here and gave me much
news re a simha* locality on the Ruwana River (see
map). Also got much news re ferry but have not
located it on map. Made a three hours' inspection tour
in afternoon. Covered a lot of country. Found no
elephant spoor except some a year old. Cob also re-
ported here, but saw none and am sure none ever existed.
Few topi, few waterbuck, one impalla. Mosquitoes
start business at twelve noon and are very thick ever}^-
where now (6:30 p. m.). No anopheles seen. Sun ex-
tremely powerful all day. March to another reported
elephant swamp to-morrow.

September 16. — Departed 6:00 a. m. and marched
twenty miles; made shauri en route at a village named
Walioba (or that is the sultan's name). From him I
got the following information: The elephants were
now somewhere in the middle of the Masirori Swamp
and meant to remain there until the river rose and
flooded them out. Usually this occurs by the end of
October or middle of November. They then come
shoreward and out among the thorn trees. None has
been shot or shot at for a long time. If you want to
try to get one you must get some harua\ from the

*Lion. t Written paper.

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 219

Germans (which I could not quite fathom) or else
Walioba will not give any assistance. If all seems in
order to him, then he gives certain instructions to the
surrounding shambas to retire or keep very quiet,
and possibly you may get a chance for a shot. If a
shot is fired that seems to be the end of all things, for
either you get your temho or they clear out and do not
return to the vicinity for weeks. It is absolutely im-
possible to hunt in the swamp, and from what I have
seen of it I quite agree. He reported buff locality five
or six hours from his village. As there are shambas in
close proximity these buffs are in all probability noc-
turnal in their habits. They dwell in thick bush, and
natives are reported to be able to get at them, for they
killed two for the Germans six months ago after the
the sportsmen had tried to shoot two for themselves.
This buff place may be worth inspection. After ob-
taining this information, marched on to the ferry and
arrived there at 3 :oo p. m. Sun very powerful and no
breeze. On reaching ferry I got hold of the askari in
charge after much manena;* and having made a good
march I hoped to get across to-day and camp on the
north bank. No luck for me. The dugout (and there
is only one) was not capable of holding more than
one man and a toto'\ and the latter had to bale out for
dear life during the passage. There is not another

* Chatter,
t Child.

220 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

dugout left on the river as every native canoe has been
seized and taken to Musoma or destroyed. This on
sleeping sickness grounds. There is nothing left me
but to march to Musoma which is reported seven hours*
distant. Such is Africa and plans made therein. Ap-
parently there are no cob in this locality. All the in-
formation re the "Suma" animal refers to impalla, I
am quite certain now over this. Sitatunga certainly
do inhabit the Masirori Swamp, as they have occasion-
ally been seen by natives when fishing from their dug-
outs, but to get one seems absolutely impossible in so
large and dense a swamp. Mosquitoes real bad again
here at 6 :oo p. m. Large scale map ends near this camp
and small map not much use to work by. Sun very
powerful again to-day.

September 17. — Left ferry camp at 6:00 a. m. and
marched to Musoma. Pedometer registered seven-
teen miles but considered distance to be fifteen as cal-
culated by pace and time occupied. This is a poor
little place but some day may boast more than a name.
Plenty of dukkas* here, but nothing in them except
nigger stuff.

I do not intend to call on the officer in charge, as
there seems no occasion to do so. I can see no signs of
a port being made but there is some gold-mining
machinery lying about the place, I forgot to mention
that the askari told me yesterday that there is no way

* Indian shops.

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 221

down the river from the western end of swamp, so you
must go around it as I did and camp as far as possible
from it. Water good in swamp. Quite a few donkeys
here at 100 Rs per head!

MUSOMA TO SHIRATI

By road, on ordinary marching, four days.

By dhow, ten to fifteen hours, according to wind.
Rates, 2 Rs each white man, J R each native,
30 cents* each load. Can always rely on obtaining a
dhow in two days at Musoma. Quarantine regu-
lations on and a doctor must pass all natives before the
dhow will take same on board. Have been hunting that
medicine man two hours, but cannot find him. Have
arranged for a dhow to take me across to-morrow as
soon as I can fix up matters with the doctor. No
porters procurable here, not even one. No posho pro-
curable here except a little Mwanza rice at 5 Rs (50
cents) per load (same as Nairobi price!). Donkeys
do well and thrive here. No fly and all cattle look
fat and well. Have seen cattle in shambas continually
since leaving Table Mountain Camp. Everything
here at famine prices and no one ever heard of treacle,
dried fruit, and such like. Shirati is reported to be no
better in this respect.

September 18. — Found the doctor at 7:00 a. m.
and he informs me that practically all the country

* ^ 10 cents American money.

222 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

north of the Mara River is rigorously closed to white
and black alike, and the only way in is via Shirati, by
steamer or dhow. Sic transit cupabi elafantorum.
(Here Cuninghame heard of my illness and returned.)

CHAPTER XIX

September 23. — We were ready to march at six,
but Missambi 's ten men — who had slept in the village —
did not show up. Repeated messages failed to unearth
them; so at seven we started on for ]\Iyeru's, leaving
M'ganga to bring on the rest — when he could find
them. Passing the "royal palace," we stopped and
made parting bluffs at Missambi and his advisers, who
were sullen.

There was some local dissension, and the truth of the
matter is that Missambi had no real authority, though
himseK well-disposed.

Had my chair carried, and sat down in it from time
to time. Much better; and the hills seemed to have
shrunk since the do\Mi trip. Got some seeds of the
red-flowering tree. jNIade the twelve miles in four
and a half hours, and camped again at our old camp
near the Sultan Myeru. He brought us in eggs and
milk, two loads of tu'wembe, and seemed glad to see us.
We promised him meat on the morrow. As I did not
feel up to it, Cuninghame went out in the afternoon
and shot two topi for our own use. M 'ganga got in at
six-thirty with ten men, but different ones than we had

listed before. They had learned the other men 's names,

223

2 24 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

however, so we succeeded in listing only three to re-
port to Musoma as deserters.*

Morning, 68; noon, 88; night, 69.

September 24. — Off at 6:15, accompanied by a
retinue of shenzis for meat. The head man blandly in-
formed us that the sultan had sent orders we were to
shoot him four beasts! We replied that we were not
under the sultan's orders, and that two would be
enough. Shortly ran into a topi which I killed at
about 150 yards; and then another. The bullet (150
gr.) at 180 yards entered right shoulder, dove straight
down, came out halfway down inside of left leg, turned
at right angles, went through right leg, and hit the
ground between me and the animal. This is the
most erratic bit of twisting I have known even the
Springfield to do. We continued on past my lion camp
and up between the donga and the range to the right.
About eleven I killed a zebra for camp meat at 240
yards, and a half hour later we camped near the last
waterhole on the hither side of a wide low pass between
two tablelands. These tablelands form the dividing

*It seems that my bluff of the day before was not so far off the truth.
The Germans take the greatest amount of trouble in following up complaints
on the part of white men of desertion or bad treatment by the natives within
their sphere of influence. This is as it should be, especially in a wild country,
and adds to the white man's comfort and efficiency, as well as the natives'
well-being and opportunities. The bugaboo of "forced labour," so called,
seriously handicaps British administration. The native will not work unless
he is forced to do so; but when once he is at the job he is perfectly contented.
As labour is the first step in his education beyond what he has always been,
it is as absurd to let him off his share as it would be to permit children to
stay home from school at will. That is "forced labour, " too, when you come
right down to it. Humankind is all doing forced labour. Of course the
corollary of proper treatment in every sense of the word is implied.

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 225

line between the Mara waters and those of the Ru-
wana.

Hard work to get shade, which the great power of
the sun makes very desirable at noon. Cuninghame
saw a roan and tried to stalk it, but was preceded by
an unsuspected savage who loosed an arrow at it about
as Cuninghame was in range. Quite a big lot of wilde-
beeste and topi here.

On the march, during a stop, our savages found some
water, and one of them brought a cooking pot full back
to his friends. Our own lazy men, instead of going
after their own, crowded around, dipping at it with
their cups. The savages did not dare object, but Cun-
inghame and I, vastly indignant, waded in and gave the
safari boys a lesson. I think the incident did much to
make us solid with the shenzis — that and lots of meat !

Six hours; 14^ miles; elevation, 4,000; morning, 62;
noon, 90; night, 72.

September 25. — We are so used to heat that now
when it is below 65 we hug a fire and complain of the
bitter weather. We started this morning up a wide,
flat valley, gradually rising to the dividing woods and
the clumps of trees atop. Literally thousands of head
of game, but very wild. It thundered away at bare
distant sight of us, leaving only a haze of fine dust.
The animals were mostly wildebeeste, with a great
many topi and zebra, some eland, impalla, Nakuru
hartebeeste, and one roan.

2 26 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

From the pass we were vouchsafed a view southwest
over wide plains extending off into hazy distance, and
some very dim blue mountains perhaps forty miles
away. We thought to make out the winding course of
the Ruwana. The day 's journey toward this plain was
through country very much like the outermost foothills
of our Sierra Nevadas — low rolling hills, scattered high
chaparral and buckthorn, rock outcrops, and little
flat valleys of dried yellow grass with a terrific reflected
heat.

About noon we caught sight of several small native
villages, apparently deserted; and as we saw quite a
few tsetse flies, we thought we knew the reason. The
tsetse seems to be gradually extending its range, and
crowding the cattle-raising savages inward.

Camped huddled in the thin shade of two thorn
trees near a lone waterhole — which we found after
some search — and endured the midday heat. At four,
although the thermometer was still at 90, the sun had
lost much of its strength, so we went out to look for
meat. The astute reader of this has discovered that
we require either one large, two medium, or three smaller
beasts per diem to keep fed up. This is important, as
we have little other food. We ourselves are now dow^n
to tea, sugar, rice, lima beans (nearly gone), flour, and
a little dried fruit. Shot a topi through the heart,
210 yards. He ran in a short circle for fifty yards,
then dove with a magnificent bound headlong into the

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 227

middle of a small bush. Of course he was dead before
he hit the ground. Shortly after got another topi
through the heart at 80 yards.

In camp we found some of the local savages. They
are like the Ungruimi in beauty of physique, but are
taller. They called themselves the Wasunyi. From
them we learned that the entire plain of the Ruwana is
filled with people and cattle, and that there is little or
no game. After a long talk, realizing fully that it
would not be to their interest to deceive us, since they
are always keen for meat, we decided that the journey
would not be worth while and that we should turn back.
One of the savages offered to go along and show us the
water, an offer we accepted.

Six hours ten minutes; 13 miles; hunt, 4 miles; ele-
vation 4,400; morning, 56; noon, 93; night, 78. Back
slowly getting better.

September 26. — Back along the hiUs we came over
yesterday, but at a lower level — about halfway up
their broad, easy slope. For a short distance I par-
alleled the safari, accompanied by a savage, to get
meat promised them. When I had killed a topi with
two shots at 136 yards, he left me, and I rejoined the
safari. Much game, but exceedingly wild. At the
end of about three hours our guide showed us a sort of
rock tank of water, and we encamped. The pool was in-
accessible to game, so the water was clear and cool — a
refreshing novelty. A rhino came out of the bush

2 28 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

about forty yards away, snorted indignantly, and trot-
ted ofif, his tail and head up. Found tsetse.

At three we went scouting over the hills and through
the valleys, which here are stonier and more rugged than
any we have seen for some time. All this country is
well elevated, so that occasionally we get glimpses afar
to lower levels. Much game, but still very wild. It is
so abundant that you cannot stalk one beast without
being seen by a hundred others, so shooting is very
difficult. By sheer luck I managed to find a lone zebra
lost from his friends, and calling for them in the most
indignant fashion. Managed to sneak him, and downed
him with two shots at no yards. A little farther I
shot an oribi for ourselves at sixty.

Then we came to another valley in the green pas-
tures of which grazed a big herd of wildebeeste. This
lot I managed to stalk because I was above them, and
got to within 250 yards, from which point I hit one in
the heart. At the sound of the shot a cheetah that had
been lying under a tree, probably waiting a chance for a
calf, jumped to his feet and made off. Missed the first
shot, but landed the second "running deer" fashion,
through the heart, 200 yards — sheer luck.

While the men attended to these Cuninghame and I
went to look for water and by chance stumbled on a
craftily concealed Wasunyi "shooting box." It was
no temporary affair, but had well-built bandas, racks
for drying meat, etc., and could be found only by

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 229

accident. They had been there recently, and were suc-
cessful, for we found scraps of kongoni, zebra, water-
buck, and eland. Later we often came across these
savages hunting, and while we never had a chance to
see them actually at it — since they always ran when
they saw us — we admired the lithe savage pictures
they made, stark naked, armed with long bows, slipping
from shadow to shadow. The usual method is to drive
the game. The bowmen station themselves in the
kno-wTi routes and passes by which the beasts are most
likely to go. No wonder the game is wild. It has
probably been harried by untold generations. The
few so killed amount to nothing; but the method
trains the rest to run at sight. The zebra here are
very noisy, keeping up a perpetual barking day and
night. I suppose they have nerves.

The word to come in this part of Africa is moochie. I
wonder if our slang word "to mooch about" came by
way of early travellers from here !

Two hours forty-five minutes; 7^ miles; hunt, 7 miles;
elevation, 4,450; morning, 66; noon, 92; night, 77.

September 27. — Resolved to move camp a few miles
to where I had killed the cheetah, as there seemed to be
more game there. On the way we ran into a herd of
fifteen roan, and I managed to down one at (about)
150 yards before they ran. Found a good shady
thicket to camp in with a rain-water puddle near.
Cuninghame and I went in different directions to scout.

230 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

We both had exactly the same experience: heaps of
game, but if a single head caught sight of us and ran,
every other creature went, too, without waiting to see
what it was about. Then others saw them moving, and
followed suit, until the whole country for miles was off.

By luck I saw a wildebeeste looking over the skyline
of a hill at me. I could only see his head and neck, and
had to shoot standing, but landed him, by luck, at 2 1 1
yards. Dropped in his tracks, but when I went up I
found him diseased! and so left him. On the way
back to camp came on a zebra aroimd the corner of a
bush, and laid him out at 104 yards before he had re-
covered from his surprise. Cuninghame got nothing.
At noon he was suddenly taken with an attack of fever
that sent him to bed. Spent the afternoon writing, read-
ing, taking care of Cuninghame, and being amazed at
the men who "played soldier," just like small boys,
with unflagging zest for a solid two hours, drilling with
sticks for guns. Weather very damp and sultry,

September 28. — Cuninghame laid up with his fever,
so I started off early and made a complete circuit of the
hill where we had seen the roan the day before. The
rocky hilltops are charmingly wooded in little thickets
and groves, with openings between. Saw plenty of
Nakuru hartebeeste and some duiker, beside the usual
topi, zebra, and wildebeeste. Also caught sight of
smoke from shenzi campfires about two miles away.
Killed a topi for meat at 146 yards.

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 231

Returned to camp and found Cuninghame sleeping,
so continued on for another beast for meat. Hit a
Nakuru hartebeeste in the shoulder, but the bullet dove
down, and I lost the animal in the heavy cover, though
we managed to trail it some distance. Shortly downed
another at 135 yards with three shoulder shots, all of
which went way through. This ended my experi-
ments with the 150 grain bullet. It is a killer, but its
action is too uncertain, as a certain proportion go right
through or dive freakishly. The 165 or 172 gr. much
better.

Returned to camp to find Cuninghame much im-
proved. M 'ganga tells me some Kavirondos had come
away down from their country to hunt, but hearing my
shots ran away. They do not want to meet a white
man, as they have come through the sleeping sickness
belt just to the north, and are afraid of being shut up.
Many flies here — fuss flies, buzz flies, and blowflies.

Nine miles; morning, 63; noon, 90; night, 79.

September 29. — Cuninghame announced himself as
able to travel. While the safari were preparing I vis-
ited our bait, as two leopards had been caUing there
for three hours. We heard them go away, snarling,
just before it was hght enough to shoot. Saw a re-
markably fat hyena, however. On the way back we
jumped two wildebeeste, and I managed to get one
running, three ex five shots, through the thick bush,
at somewhere about 1 50 yards.

232 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

Marched by a good native path four and a half hours
through passes in broken, hilly country, and emerged
on a wide grass plain surrounded by mountains, with
a remarkably rocky single peak in the middle of it.
Many herds of wildebeeste, zebra, and topi grazed in
the open, and from above we could see countless sav-
ages, singly and in numbers, trekking back and forth
across it.

In the path we came across some very curious "medi-
cine," to which all our boys gave a wide berth — first, an
old cooking pot, then some ashes, then crossed sticks,
a hoe, and a knife, strung out for ten feet or more.
Memba Sasa said it was intended to kill an enemy, but
Cuninghame kicked it all aside and saved some one 's
life, to everybody's open horror.

Near the rocky single peak I cut off to get meat,
while the safari went on to find water and make camp.
Got a topi with two shots at 250 and 200 yards; and an-
other at 234. As we are now nearing the lake and have
plenty of carriers, I tried for a desired wildebeeste head,
but here all seem to be cows and calves.*

Had some difficulty in locating camp, so went up to
a native village for information, and was met by the
finest savage ever. He was a very big man, with a
slanting feather in his topknot, armlets and necklace
with danglers, a little square of goatskin edged with

* In this and the three other big park-like plains in the vicinity this was
true. The bulls were elsewhere. Curiously enough there seemed to be no
lions hereabouts. One would think they would follow the young calves.

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 233

steel beads over one shoulder, spear and shield, and
anklets made to ring like bells at every step — a fine,
proud wild creature. He jingled away in front of me
and led me to camp under a big tree by the only
waterhole. I asked my savage for eggs, and sat down
to cool off. Noon sun very fierce in this country.

Our camp was on a gentle slope of the hill and about
200 feet above the plain that extended for miles. We
could sit in the shade and watch the game herds at
leisure. Was all prepared to get a picture of my
savage when he should return with the eggs, but he
came back rigged like a scarecrow in tattered old
khaki ! Cuninghame made the trip quite well, and shot
a topi near camp, but was quite done up.

Askaris are out hereabouts collecting hut tax for the
German Government. They count the huts in each
village, lay out a stick for each hut, do them up in a
bundle, and carry them out to the official at Shirati.
The latter then calls in the sultans, produces the bundles
of sticks, and says:

"Here are twenty-two sticks — sixty-six rupees 7nar-
amoja or I'll collect from your cattle." There is said
never to be any dispute as to the tally.

At four o'clock Cuninghame and I got our chairs out
in the shade, unlimbered our glasses, and amused our-
selves by scanning the plain below. Some topi and a
single wildebeeste were grazing about 500 yards be-
low. Suddenly they all scattered off at a great speed.

234 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

"Wonder what started them!" said Cuninghame.
Then we saw a black dog about the size of a pointer.
Paying no attention to the topi, he took after the wilde-
beeste. The latter loped easily, while the dog fairly
had to scratch gravel to hold his own. It looked like a
sure thing for the wildebeeste, but the dog was a
stayer. Farther and farther they went until they be-
came mere specks, and we had to take to our glasses.
About two miles away the wildebeeste dodged and
doubled, then ran through a herd. The dog never lost
sight of the one he was after, and paid no attention to
the rest. At last* the animal turned at bay, making
short lunges and charges, which the dog dodged, trying
to get in at the beast's hindquarters. Now for the
first time we noticed a savage running like smoke across
the arc of the circle the chase had taken. He was
stark naked, a fine figure, and carried nothing but a
bow and arrows. How he could run! We saw him
stop and discharge arrows, though it was too far away
to see them. The wildebeeste hesitated, and we saw the
little black speck of a dog leap for his throat. They
both went down in a heap ; and Cuninghame and I stood
up and cheered, though we were two miles away, and
could see nothing without the glasses. When we sat
down again it was over. The dog was sitting by the
carcase, and the savage was headed for a lone bush to
get materials with which to cover his prize for the

* The chase lasted forty-two minutes.

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 235

night. When the meat was ''bushed" he and the
dog started soberly for home. Now that was real
sport; it made us and our long-range rifles look pretty
cheap; and my only regret was that I could not get
acquainted with that bully pup!

Fine Arizona-like light over the plains at sunset.
Cuninghame and I solemnly drank the JMemsahib's
health in weak toddy; for to-day is an especial anni-
versary.

Four and a half hours; lof miles; morning, 69; noon,
91; night, 77; elevation, 4,200.

September 30. — Last night M'ganga, who under-
stands their language, overheard one of the shenzis say
to the rest:

"We are now near home, and we have had plenty of
meat and very little work. Let us run away, and let
our wages go."

Had up the lot, lectured them, and gave the ring-
leader ten lashes, which settled it. They were very
awestricken over our apparently magical knowledge
of their plans.

Marched high along the slope of a mountain, all
rocky outcrops, boulders, huge cubes, obelisks, all
sorts of strange and fanciful shapes. Across the
valley, which lay dim and blue below, were rows of
separate peaks, each a perfect cone, spaced like huge
shark's teeth; and milky, indeterminate distances.

We passed three villages perched among the rocks,

236 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

each with its waterhole below, from which Hnes of
girls, stark naked, were carrying water in gourds of all
sizes.* About ten o 'clock we deserted the slope of the
mountain and struck down and across a bushy flat
toward distant blue mountains in the west. At
twelve, as we still had encountered nothing but bush,
we set down the safari and scattered to find water.
Nothing can describe the intense heat of noon in this
country. Beats anything in British East Africa. Sun
is very powerful, and the earth radiates like a grate.
Thermometers do not begin to indicate it. After an
hour 's search found a pool of mud flavoured with dung
(to which we are quite accustomed) . Also saw ten roan.
About four o 'clock I started for the necessary meat,
though it was still hot enough to cook eggs. Found a
perfectly open plain where were hundreds of topi and a
few Tommy, but nothing else. Amused myself (al-
though the beasts were fairly approachable) by long-
range shooting at single beasts. First miss then hit at
320 yards, then two raking hits at closer range ac-
counted for the first. The second took two at 330,
Then I saw a Tommy that looked good and killed it at
211. Proved to be what is probably the record for
East Africa, sixteen and five eighth inches. A thirteen-
inch horn is good for British East Africa, and world's
record is somewhere about seventeen inches.

* Why these people do not build somewhere near the water, 1 do not know.
They almost never do. Perhaps they Hke to keep their women busy.

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 237

A beautiful lightning display in the evening. Cun-
inghame better, but pretty tired.

Safari, six hours twenty minutes; 14 J miles; hunted 8
miles; morning, 63; noon, 97; night, 78.

October i. — Set the safari on a line toward a water-
hole known to some of our shenzis, and started off on a
slight detour to see if we could not get a wildebeeste
head. Last chance, as the country now merges into
the thickly settled regions near the lake. Saw just one,
but him I got after a long and careful stalk, at 361
yards. Shortly after killed a Tommy, but could not
find him in the long grass.

We now pass into the country of the Wiregi, leaving
the Ungruimi. Journeyed across a plain grown with
scrub. To our left volcanic hills of red, to our right
the bright green wide expanse of a papyrus swamp
called the Masirori. We headed toward a bold rocky
peak lying alone. After three hours overtook the
safari resting by the waterhole. Two savages had
chased an impalla into the deep mud, and there killed
it and were now triumphantly cutting it up. Saw a lot
of game near here, including a number of sing-sing.

The rocky peak proved very interesting in the queer
forms and immense size of its boulders and spires, in
the queer trees, bushes, and cacti that sprang from
every crevice, and from the fact that hmidreds of huts
were built high up in the strangest cracks and crannies.
Often quite extensive stone terraces had been con-

238 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

structed to hold the buildings. Water was a mile and
a half distant, and must all be brought in gourds. The
granaries were perched rakishly atop boulders, and
goats skipped about. People climbed atop big round
rocks and stood, upright and picturesque, to see us pass.
We rounded the corner and came to the headquarters
of a very wealthy and powerful sultan named Walioba.
As usual with these African kings, he did not live with
any great number of his people, but occupied a settle-
ment apart, together with forty or fifty of his courtiers,
soldiers, and their families. A very large square house
was building, behind a strong stockade. We marched
straight by to the guest houses. These were nine in
number, eight of the ordinary size, and one fully twenty-
five feet in diameter — the biggest circular house we
have seen. Its walls were plastered to a height of
three feet from the ground, and the space left open
under the eaves for a view out and for breeze. A flag-
pole with cords stood before this. Inside were two
benches made of sawn planks. They were very crude
planks, but they were sawn, and that was a curiosity in
savage Africa. Not only was the inside swept and
clean, but aU the grounds were likewise swept and piles
of firewood stacked.

Immediately we arrived, strings of women came, bear-
ing each a great calabash of water which she emptied
into a jar outside each hut^ and then went away (ij
miles!) for more. The elders, very grave and ornate

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 239

savages, then waited on us to inquire what else we
would want and to tell us that Walioba had "gone
away to drink beer," but had been sent for. These
men were very intelligent looking, were dressed in
khaki with silver buttons, and wore new military caps !
All the rest of the population are the usual naked
savages. We mentioned our needs as milk, eggs, potio,
and repose. Very hot and oppressive day, and we felt
done.

About three o 'clock I strolled over to take a look at
the royal palace, and on my way back saw a white-clad
figure enter camp on a mule Now mules in this
country are worth almost anything, so I hurried for-
ward, but by the time I got there Walioba had dis-
mounted and entered our house. The mule was a very
good one, and carried a Mexican saddle and Navajo
blanket! Think of that, a blanket made by savages in
the Southwest United States used by a savage king
fairly in the interior of equatorial Africa.*

Walioba proved to be a square, powerfully built man,
of thirty-five or so, with a keen but typically negro
face. He wore on his head a clean navy blue yacht
cap with carriage-cloth visor. His clothes were white,
clean, and in good order, consisting of a riding coat and
breeches, leather leggings, and good boots. In fact, he
was well turned out. He proved most friendly. Gave

* We could not trace this outfit; but gathered vaguely that it must have
come from some American missionary the other side of the lake.

240 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

us men's food gratis, milk, eggs, etc. Before we had
finished we had sold him our remaining four donkeys
at 80 rupees each — when they should arrive. He
also made tentative bargains with Cuninghame for a
tent at 350 rupees, and a mule at 450, both to be sent
from Nairobi. So he is indeed a wealthy chief. Added
a load of peanuts to his presents, and offered us guides
for to-morrow. We gave him a Marble folding knife
as a starter. His real present, as is the custom, does
not come until we leave for good. Bargained for ten
loads of potio, which he promised to collect and dehver.
At supper time he returned in a bright-bordered piece
of linen, and a dress waistcoat, stockings, and pipe-
clayed white shoes, but no trousers ! He was much in-
terested in Baxter's alarm watch. A most intelligent
man who seems quick at the uptake and keen at catch-
ing a complicated shauri.

Rained. Mosquitoes extraordinarily bad. At dark
they appeared in literal swarms, so that we were
driven to our mosquito canopies and the men to suffo-
cating smudges. Many of our people are down with
fever, and we have a large clinic every night.

Four hours; 11 miles; we went six and a half hours;
14J miles; morning, 67; noon, 91; night, 73.

CHAPTER XX

October 2. — Expected the usual long wait for the
guides, but to our vast astonishment they were on
hand before dawn, squatted at little fires and ready for
action. Walioba is keen business. Sent back twenty
men to bring on Dolo, donkeys, and loads from Mis-
sambi's. One shenzi porter deserted in the night.
Walioba supplied us one of his personal entourage,
who took the deserter's load as far as the next village,
where we hired another at two cents per diem.

Marched seven hours through a broken country with

many rocky outcrops and peaks. Passed cotton fields

white with cotton and yellow and pink with blossom.

Over across the valley we heard a distant native

safari passing to the music of a flute. It was very

mellow and pleasing. Stopped at a native smithy.

The blacksmith was ver>' hirsute on arms and body,

most unusual. The bellows were two goatskins joined

at the necks and pressed alternately to give a steady

stream. He had pincers and a small hammer, and for

anvils he used hard rocks of different sizes. At the

time he was making a hoe, and fashioned the hot iron

very skilfully. All the villages are built right among

the rocks, the houses perched in the oddest places, with

241

242 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

goats and small boys to fill in, although there is plenty
of open country all about, and water is always distant.

Our guides knew no Swahili, so we followed them
blindly. They took us by all sorts of winding and
devious paths, native fashion, and finally set us down,
about noon, among some superheated rocks. After an
interval a girl appeared with a calabash of water and
about a bushel of peanuts, on both of which our men
fell eagerly. She motioned us to follow, and went on,
her wire "neck ruff" bobbing at every step.* Our
boys shouted loudly with delight over having a "M-
angozi monumuki/' a "lady guide." We followed her
for an hour through some very hot places, down and
out of canons and ravines in the skirts of the hills.
Then she stopped us in a nice little rock furnace and
disappeared.

We waited. To us came a finely built, bright-looking,
middle-aged man, with a deep bass voice, who spoke
Swahili. He informed us that he was a widower, lived
alone with his four children, and knew where there
were buffalo.

Did he know where there was water and shade for
camp?

Led us a mile into the bottom of a caiion and we
settled gratefully into a good old-fashioned high forest,
with looping vines as big as a man's leg, and thick

* These curious wire affairs are coiled like the mainspring of a watch and
stand out eight to twelve inches.

THESE OUTCROPS ARE TVl'I' ..1 '1 JUL LULMRV NLAR \IlTOKIA
NYANZA

THE WIREGI GUIDE FOR BUFFALO
SEE PAGE 242

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 243

shade. The water was milk-white with mud. The
tea, coffee, soup, etc., all looked alike, but it was cool
and did not taste of cowdung, which was a happy
surprise. The "lady guide" disappeared before we
had a chance to reward her; but next day an individual
announcing himself her husband put in a modest claim.

I forgot to say that three hours' back, from a height,
I got my first view of Victoria Nyanza — a deep blue
distant and narrow bay, with islands, bold headlands,
and a sea beyond.

Seven hours; 14! miles; morning, 70; noon, 89; night,
78; elevation, 4,200.

October 3. — The savage was on hand before day-
light to take us to the buffalo. He had a strong and
well-made bow and arrows, and nothing else. Very
keen, hard-working, good old boy, and we were strong
for him. He had buffalo there all right, but living as
they did in the midst of savages they were strictly
nocturnal and retired to the thickets before daylight.
Then in the thickets they would not stand and investi-
gate their disturbers as do ordinary buffs — they know
already by experience just what it is and have no
further curiosity — but get out at once on the slightest
disturbance. It was totally impossible to stalk them,
of course. The savage placed us at points of vantage
and tried driving them past us. Twice he succeeded,
but the thickets were so dense that aU we were treated
to were a few thrills as the beasts smashed and crashed

244 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

within twenty yards or so of us. At noon we gave it
up, agreeing that it was interesting; but, barring mi-
raculous luck, likely to prove unproductive for months.
But the old man had worked so hard, was so keen, and
really knew his job so well, that we gave him three
rupees and a knife. Beside, he was rather a pathetic
figure at the head of his two little girls and two little
boys trudging down after water, and no bibi"^ at all. A
load of peanuts — sixty pounds — came in, for which we
paid cash 3I cents. Three more men down with fever.

Morning, 68; noon, 88; night, 74.

October 4. — Many forest hyraxes calling all night,
and the most shrill and pleasing chorus of insects. We
returned to Walioba's by a route of our own, and saved
two and a half hours ' march, which indicates well the
usual roundabout paths of the natives.

Contrary to usual belief, most natives are very poor
hands at finding their way through unknown country.
All subsequent travel follows the first man's route.
Nothing is more aggravating than to follow the windings
and twistings of a native guide. The shortcuts are ob-
vious and apparently easy; yet it never occurs to any
one of them to try a better route. Nor does it bring
aught but confusion to suggest such a thing. If you
have a native guide you must possess your soul in
patience and be content. On the return journey, know-
ing the lay of the country, you can save your time and

* Woman.

sdWHHH

■S2W^;2^k^i^V

^pi

flftf^S^^^^^^^^K

■t

-^^plJ^^H

^^^^Kfl^

IUf.>>aH

walioba's "palace'

•^..- •• s-^ . V. r?(u

WALIOUA— PERE

AX EXAMPLE OF EAR STRETCHERS AND A GOOD ADVERTISEMENT FOR
THE KODAK COMPANY

WIREGI PORTERS FURNISHED BY WALIOBA. THE HEAD PADS ARE VERY
CLEVERLY TWISTED OF GRASS

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 245

distance. Nor is the average native worth anything in
finding his way after dark. But, to give him his due,
he can often get back to camp when the white man
has become hopelessly confused in the chase of some
animal.

Struck a stray topi on the way in, and downed it at
about 200.

The cotton fields are full of pickers. I never cease
marvelling at the way the women can stand for long
periods, bent at exact right angles at the hips, prepar-
ing some work near the ground. Their backs are per-
fectly rigid and straight; as are their knees; but they
never seem to tire.

Found Walioba in savage dress, and took a picture of
him. He was most reluctant, and only consented
when I promised to take him maredadi* later. In the
course of the afternoon Walioba pere, the ex-sultan,
called. He was a fine old boy, of the old African school,
fat, with a deep, hearty voice, and a truly regal car-
riage. No modem clothes for him, but he looked and
acted every inch a king. He called Cuninghame
"Papa" in the friendly manner of equal to equal. All
he needed was a leopard skin to sit on and a howling
dance before him to realize the ideal African king.

Mosquitoes very bad after dark.

Morning, 62; noon, 89; night, 75.

* Dressed up.

CHAPTER XXI

October 5. — Went out for a last hunt in German
East Africa, as to-morrow we shall start on a direct
march for the lake. It is African etiquette to shoot
meat for your hosts also, so we were followed by quite
a retinue, viz.: ten porters for our two beasts, and
fifteen savages for that to be given to Walioba I and 11.
When we reached the game cover, an hour distant, we
squatted all but three (to act as messengers) and went
on less encumbered.

Game was plenty, but wild, which made it more in-
teresting. By noon I had killed a sing-sing at 292 yards;
a topi at no; and a zebra at 281, and another with
two shots, first about 275, second at 180. This finished
the job, and also the shooting for this part of the trip.
The statistics are as follows: Animals shot at 176;
animals killed 152. To do this required 303 cartridges
with which 241 hits were made.

Very muggy sticky weather. Saw a cliff village be-
low a small precipice. On the top of the precipice sat
a baboon calmly contemplating the children below him;
they in turn were perched on lower cliffs looking down
on us.

Men and donkeys came in from Missambi 's at i :30.

246

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 247

All afternoon getting ready to move. Walioba in good
old African fashion has changed his mind about buy-
ing donkeys, so we have them still to sell. He has
ready for us as porters eight of his Wiregi, fine, tall,
muscular men, as all these people are. He has also
been prompt in bringing milk, water, firewood, eggs,
three sacks m'wembe, two loads of peanuts, guides, etc.
Therefore we gave him an alarm clock, a pair of socks,
some empty chop boxes with locks, and five rupees.
The alarm clock in especial he is most tickled with,
and makes it perform for any and all comers.

Heavy rain. A leopard leaped the defences of the
"palace" and stole a sheep in the evening. Every-
body out with fire, spears, and much noise, but the
leopard got away with it.

Our Ungruimis made much manena wanting to re-
turn from here. After a long shaiiri we found that
they feared being pressed into service by the Germans
at Musoma, should they show their faces there. We
solved the problem by counting out their wages and
wrapping up each individual's in a piece of Mericani.
These we promised they should have the instant they
had laid down their loads at Musoma; so they could, if
they so desired, seize their money and depart instanter.
With this they were satisfied.

Did 13J miles; morning, 70 degrees; noon, 90; night,
70. Dropped 18 degrees in ten minutes when it rained.

October 6. — Off for the lake with the biggest safari

248 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

yet, viz. : our forty men and four donkeys and twenty-
one savages. Many of our men are sick, however, and
all have light loads.

Struck the native track in two hours and paddled
down it at a good speed. This country is all of granite
with wide valleys of granitic soil, bold mountains made
of masses of huge boulders, smaller rocky kopjes, and
curious single spires and needles fifty to a hundred feet
high sticking up all by themselves. The growth is of
thin thorn and many openings — no forests such as I
had imagined next the lake. Villages ever^-where up
in the rocks, and the soil of the valleys cultivated in the
usual native fashion — with a sharp stick. No game,
but many game birds, such as guinea fowl, bustards,
etc. Water scarce and not very good.

We stopped, at three hours, at a waterhole for rest.
Some girls came for water. Their garments are of a new
type, consisting merely of a number of brass wire rings
encircling the hips loosely. Much traffic on the road,
men carrying reeds from the lake, natives on all sorts of
business. These are the true lake people, tall, exceed-
ingly well built, and as black as black. Camped at
five hours ten minutes, 13! miles, by the roadside.
Water green and bad. Sent men with pails and bags
over the hills to Mara Bay to bring us back the bare
necessity. No washing to-day ! Temperature low, sky
overcast, but very steamy and muggy, morning, 70;
noon, 80; night (?) ; elevation, 3,400.

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 249

October 7. — An overcast and sticky day to start with,
clearing later. Off at 5 135 along the edge of Mara Bay,
with hills to the left and high green papyrus cutting
our view to the right. Hundreds of dragonflies about,
with transparent wings across the ends of which were
broad black bands, so that as they hovered they gave
the impression of unsupported bodies accompanied on
either side by satelhtes. The native huts were here
built next the papyrus — where the mosquitoes must
have been very thick. They had herds of humped
cattle among which fluttered and perched numbers of
white egrets — a pretty sight. Stone spires in monolith
and square rocks like forts cropped up here and there,
isolated, from an otherwise alluvial soil. The path
was broad and well beaten; and indeed we met much
traffic — natives going to market carrying loads of sugar-
cane or m'wembe; coming from market with coils of brass
wire, little packets of sugar or salt, strings of beads,
cotton cloth or beautiful new red blankets; carrying
huge bundles of papyrus stalks to use as building
materials, or just moving about to see what they could
see. They are a very black people, these lake dwell-
ers, but beautifully muscled and most symmetrically
shaped.

Soon we began to catch glimpses of a bold and
broken coastline with promontories and islands, and in
two hours passed by the old government post at Ita-
banga, now abandoned. There still remains a sub-

250 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

stantial two-story whitewashed stone house, the wreck
of orchards, and sisal fields. The town itself, of many
huts, is still a very busy place, for here land the dhows
and hence set forth the trading caravans for the Ikoma
and Tabora country, below where we had been exploring.
Here Cuninghame dropped back to try to sell the four
last donkeys. We hated to part with them, for of the
sixty-one animals with which we left Vanderweyer's
these four were the sole survivors. However, we could
not take them with us. Got 240 rupees for the lot.

Here for the first time I saw houses made of adobe
bricks almost exactly like the old California article.

Arrived at the new post of Musoma about two hours
later. It is situated on a long very narrow neck of land
that reaches straight out pretty close to the mouth
of Mara Bay. This land is very low except that
at the inner end two kopjes and at the extreme tip a
rocky knob mark the terminations. It is absolutely bare
of trees or shade; we camped on coarse quartz sand and
scanty grass. The "works " at present consist of a small
stucco house and a customs shed near the end, and a
wharf about fifty feet long made of loose stones dumped
down. A government house and two forts (!) are in
contemplation. A great many very neat huts made of
the clean-looking papyrus stems, and a double row of
Indian shops, represent the town. In charge is a Ger-
man non-commissioned officer, styled by all (including
himself) "Bwana Askari," and a German architect.

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 251

Several hundred savages are labouring at the public
works, some free, and a great many strung together by
chains passing from one iron collar to another. I am
bound to say the chain gang seemed quite cheerful.
Everything was being done by hand, and with incred-
ible labour. Long files of men departed for the distant
rock lull and reappeared, each carrj^ing on his head a
single stone. This he dropped to its place, and re-
turned for another. Other files of men carried each a
little basket of earth or sand. Planks were being sawn
from the sohd log by hand, one man atop, one below,
dragging a rusty and dull old saw back and forth. Four
men held a pile upright, two more supported a short
ladder against it : a seventh, perched precariously on the
ladder, beat the end of the huge pile with an ordinary
sledge hammer. It looked to be impossible that this
should bring results— nor did it seem to as long as I
watched — but it must work, for I saw the pile in place
two days later! Four men were required to drag one
stone a mile. They laid it on a piece of wood, and
either hauled on it or laboriously rolled it back on its
rude carriage when it fell off.

Our first job, after making camp, was to prospect for
a dhow,* in which to sail north to Shirati — the land
journey was impossible on accoimt of sleeping sickness.
There were none in port, and no prospects of any for

* These craft are sailed by negroes, but owned by the Indian traders, who
ply a busy trade in peanuts and rice as against the usual trade goods.

252 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

eight days. We were rather dismayed at that, but
there seemed no alternative but to wait, for all the
country north is full of sleeping sickness. In the mean-
time we had a shauri with Bwana Askari, a capable
German of the lower class, with Kolb and Dill whiskers.
He spoke no English and we no German, so all our
negotiations went on in Swahili.

It seems that the askari who met us at Natron re-
ported that we had kiUed a giraffe, and as that is il-
legal in Germany without a "greater license," we were
to be arrested. The giraffe in question had been
killed on the British side, and the askari should have
known that, for previous to meeting him we had done
no hunting on the German side. We explained this,
and Bwana Askari agreed that the nigger had been
officious, but took from us a deposit of Rs 300. We get
this back later when the accusation is officially quashed.

Spent part of the afternoon writing to the Governor,
the Provincial Commissioner, and the Customs, setting
this matter right. At an Indian dukka bought a tin of
jam, a bottle of lime juice, and some chocolate. For
some time we have had only oatmeal, rice, tea, coffee,
and sugar, and this purchase was intended to repre-
sent luxury.

A torrential downpour lasting an hour drove us in
at three o'clock, and another lasted nearly all night.
About half our men are down with fever, and Cuning-
hame has a slight attack.

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 253

The view up the bay from our camp is wonderful,
with the long reach of the bay, and the different layers
of hills and mountains reaching back and back to milk}^
distance.

Four hours; lof miles; morning, 70; noon, 86; night,
68.

October 8. — A day of uncertain rushing about try-
ing to get information of when we are likely to get away.
A very small dhow blew in and went up the bay. We
sent messengers after her and caught her when she
landed at Itabanga. For fifty rupees her captain
agreed to make one trip to Shirati, but could not make
two. As the dhow looked inadequate for all our lot we
made the men fall in and picked out those who were to
stay until we could send for them, Hamisi, failing to
show up, was found dead drunk on tettibo* Later when
asked why he did not fall in with the rest, he repHed
that he had "sleeping sickness," an answer that saved
him kiboko. Fined him one half month's wages.

About three in the afternoon I saw the black smoke
of a steamer over the point, drifting down the wind.
Joyfully we hastened to a height — to find that the
"smoke" was a swarm of midges, a phenomenon for
which Victoria Nyanza is famous. There must have
been millions of them, for they were in appearance ex-
actly like the voluminous smoke of a steamer that has
just been fresh stoked. Once in the air they cannot

* Native beer.

254 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

come down until the wind dies, so their fate is most
uncertain.

The "town" proved not uninteresting. The women
of the government askaris parade up and down, Nandi
mostly. They as a class are the only women in Africa
who do not work, and they value themselves accord-
ingly. Their hair is done elaborately, their ornaments
are many, their patterned garment clean and new; but
especially are they interesting for their airs of feminine
coquetry. A very great — and very ridiculous — sultan
was in making purchases. In his native wilds he was
probably a fine-looking man. Now he wore a peaked
helmet much too big for him, a light gray army over-
coat that was the last word in misfits, puttees awkwardly
wound, and huge brogans. An actor on the comic
stage would be considered rather to have overdone it
if he had looked so. This potentate was accompanied
by his two favourite wives — in native undress — the
bearer of the royal camp-chair, and a few miscel-
laneous shenzis. He was a canny old soul and did not
intend being done, for he went carefully into every
Indian dukka before making his first purchase.

A tremendous rain again in the evening, after the
cessation of which we heard the sultan and suite re-
turning home — very drunk. They howled and screamed
and chattered at the top of their lungs; and nobody
paid the slightest attention to what anybody else said.

Morning, 65; noon, ^^', night, 78.

THE FOUR SURVIVORS OF THE DONKEY TRAIN. OF OUR OWN
VANDERWEYER'S, 59 animals died OF TSETSE

AT MUSOMA — THE ONLY SAWMILL IN THE COUNTRY

THE ENTRANCE TO MARA BAY, TAKEN FROM VICTORIA NYANZA

THE DHOW IN WHICH WE SAILED UP VICTORIA NYANZA

LOADING OUR DHOW AT MUSOMA FOR THE TRIP UP VICTORIA NYANZA

CHAPTER XXII

October 9. — Packed up and sat doum to wait for the
dhow. She arrived about eight, and proved to be
laden deep with peanuts and miscellaneous natives, all
of which had to be unloaded before we could get aboard.
She was the t>'pical thing, high aft and low forward,
so that she looked constantly on the point of making a
dive; with one mast amidships and one huge sail on a
yard. This was manipulated and swung about by the
most fearful and complicated system of native-made
ropes and wooden blocks. The crew consisted of four
ordinary natives, and a more intelligent black citizen,
who held the tiller. Fortunately the dhow is not a
skittish creature and does not require quick handling.
The crew put in its time sleeping or playing with a tin-
ful of beads. When the skipper gave an order the
proper man to execute it had to be searched for and
waked up. Then the order was discussed in all its bear-
ings. Luckily a dhow cannot be upset nor wrecked
unless it hits a rock, and then it has to be a very big
rock and the dhow going fast.

We got our loads aboard, and embarked the men one
by one. The skipper had a sort of plimsoll mark of his
own on which to keep his eye. We piled men on top

255

256 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

of each other, squeezed them hke sardines, at last got
them all triumphantly aboard! We were much re-
lieved at this — as were the men — for we did not want
to leave them. There was no more room; but we still
floated. Cuninghame and I occupied a flat, hard little
deck right in the stern together with the crew and a
jumble of ropes.

We cast off from the pier and poled ourselves out
until we floated free. Then, and not until then, we
raised the sail. Reason immediately apparent. The
dhow refused positively to pay off, but nosed her way
back into the wind every time she was coaxed out of it.
Yells, confusion, excitement, production of two long
poles to the end of which were fastened round pieces of
wood — oars, save the mark! Thrice we vainly teased
our way free, and thrice we came up into the wind.
Then we hung on a hair of indecision, hesitated, paid
off, and were away before the breeze. Fortunately
the wind held fresh and fair all day. If it had not,
heaven alone knows where we should have arrived or
when.

The shores of Victoria Nyanza are deeply indented.
In fact, the coastline is practically a series of long
peninsulas and deep bays between them. Groups of
islands of all sizes are numerous. Wherever the coast
is not beaten by the seas it is fringed with a band of
papyrus, sometimes thirty feet from root to blossom.
The coast proper is rather barren and brown looking,

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 257

with ranges of mountains, and the constant succession
of rocky outcrops through which we had been march-
ing. Nowhere are there forests; but the scenery is
most beautiful in places. The water is a deep green.
Crocodiles and hippos are common, and give a dis-
tinct feeling of incongruity to the open-sea impression.

Our little deck grew very hot at noon, but the breeze
held; and by 4:30 we picked up the buildings of Shirati.
Shortly after we landed. Nobody ever yet "made a
landing" in a dhow. The sail is dropped while yet
some distance out, and then the unwieldy affair is poked
and punched in. Generally it goes to leeward, and
they have to drop anchor and get ropes ashore and
otherwise muddle about. By the time we were landed
and had our loads ashore it was dark. We camped in
an open place, and plunged into our mail, which had
been sent dowTi here for us. Rained in the evening.
Lots of fever cases, among which was poor Cuning-
hame again.

Morning, 70; noon (?); night, 77.

October 10. — Shirati is a German Government post,
situated on a long narrow tongue of land running out
into the lake. This peninsula is 100 feet high, and bare
of larger vegetation. The Germans have planted two
avenues of trees, but they have not done well, and
have generally a very sickly appearance. Near the
water is a stuccoed and whitewashed customs house
with two smaller houses for the Goanese officials a

258 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

short distance away. The way then rises to a square
stone fort of some size near which stands the District
Commissioner's building, long, low, and white, with
surrounding veranda. The other side the fort are a
dozen Indian dukkas and, in an open space, a roofed
shed for the native market. The second avenue of
sickly trees runs from the fort down the length of the
peninsula. A few scattered native huts, and several
more compact villages, make up the rest of Shirati. A
fresh breeze generally sweeps across the peninsula,
which keeps it reasonably free of mosquitoes and fever.
The sleeping sickness is bad only a few miles away; and
Shirati is soon to be abandoned.

We called on the District Commissioner and found
him a very pleasant, short, blond, and pink little man,
who spoke a little English. We had the wearisome
giraffe shauri to go over again.

Then we went down to the landing and tackled the
Customs. That took the rest of the day, for never
before in the history of Shirati had sportsmen gone out
from there. The babu had no precedents, no book, no
nothing to go by; and such a situation is very tough on
the babu. We made a good many of our own prece-
dents on the spot, and got off fairly well.

Very hot and sticky, and a lot more of our men came
down with fever.

There is a species of eagle very numerous here and
well named Vocifer. He is the joUiest creature im-

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 259

aginable, for he is continually giving vent to perfect
screams of laughter and joy so Uke the wild hilarity of
the native women that at first I was thus deceived.
And when one sees the joke they all see the joke and
join in. This wild joyous cr>^ is uttered on the wing or
sitting. When the Vocifer happens to be in a tree, he
throws his head back just as a person would do when
laughing heartily. As the joke gets funnier his head
gets farther back until it fairly lies between his shoulders
with the open beak pointing straight up.

Morning, 71; noon, 90; night (?).

October 11. — Great difficulty to get firewood. We
buy little bunches of it from the native women. Natu-
rally there are no more evening campfires. In the early
morning and late evening great flocks of the sacred
ibis pass going to or coming from their feeding grounds.
We spent the day reading up in the Literary Digest, and
in writing letters.

Morning, 68; noon, 96; night, 75.

October 12. — To-day a boat was expected — though at
what hour was unknown. At seven o 'clock we packed
up, as per instructions, and went down to the customs
house. There we sat in the shade until 4 130. That is
usual in Africa. A native in a dugout canoe fished just
off the edge of the reeds for the same length of time, and
apparently without catching anything; so we had no
monopoly on the stock of patience.

At 4 130 the steamer came in and anchored. A small

26o THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

boat brought a line ashore, and by means of that a
lighter full of peanuts was hauled out by hand. We
went with the lighter. The Nyanza is a small steamer,
living quarters and engines all aft, freight decks amid-
ships, small forecastle, like our Great Lakes freighters
on a smaller scale. She is shallow and draws only
about six feet. Awful little cabin with saggy and
bumpy bunks. Live on the bridge, where meals are
served. At about sunset we had completed loading
the peanuts, and steamed an hour or so to Korangu,
where we dropped anchor for the night. There is no
night travel on Victoria Nyanza. Not much sleep.
Too many natives aboard, too bad beds. A small
group of some of the lake people were singing very
sweetly in harmony; the first time I have ever heard
Africans do anything but plain unison. A gorgeous
night, with the reflection of the land in moonlit water.

October 13. — Korangu is surrounded, or rather
backed, by high, dry-looking mountains, like those of
Spain or our own Southwest. Visible is only one tin
shed and a small house; though the captain told us a
Seventh Day Adventist mission lay over the hill ! We
soon steamed away.

A remarkably hot day. The shores here are of bold
high mountains; and many islands made for us a sort of
inside passage, so that we lost the effect of the open sea.
At one point we worked our way through a passage in
which the channel was only 200 feet wide, with a right-

GOVERNMENT POST (GERMAN) AT SHIRATI. THIS POST WAS ON THE POINT OF
ABANDONMENT BECAUSE OF SLEEPING SICKNESS

BOLOGNA SAUSAGE TRKK. FROM THE WOOD OF THIS TRKE IS BREWED
THE POISON THE NATIVES USE ON THEIR ARROWS

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 261

angled turn; and here, owing to a misplaced buoy, we
nearly hung up. This passage and one other are the
only entrances to the Kavirondo Gulf. The latter is
some sixty miles long, by ten or fifteen wide, and is
practically a lake by itself. The mountains on both
sides are very lofty, but set rather back, so there is a
littoral. At the end there is a vast stretch of flat
country — a continuation of the old lake bed — but at
last the mountains close even this in.

Our intention was to land at Kisumu* and to look for
Uganda cob at Kibigori, a place about twenty-five miles
inland on this flat. We docked at Kisumu about sun-
down, with a good deal of flurry ; and I easily saw why the
captains of these lake steamers crack up. The climate
and the nervous work are a combination to knock up
anybody. At this point we got two pieces of bad news:
The first was that Vandenveyer 's donkeys are all dead.
The other hit poor Memba Sasa. He got word that his
father and his wife were both dead of plague ; and that
the Masai had seized the opportunity to steal sixty of
his goats — a very severe financial loss for a man in his
position. We decided to send him up by train to-
morrow to see what he could do. I am extremely
sorry, for I am fond of him. Slept (?) on board, as we
had nowhere to go in the dark.

October 14. — Sent off Memba Sasa by early train.
He wept at parting, and I felt like doing so. I shall

* Kisumu is the lake terminal of the Uganda Railroad.

262 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

not see him again. Then we spent some three hot
hours on customs and on shipping out trophies and
donkey saddles by freight. Also in getting our men all
inoculated for plague, a job which did not in the least
please them. It hurts somewhat. Cuninghame, like
an old fox, headed off possible complaints by announc-
ing that the inoculation was a sort of test; that those
whom it made ill and unable to work would be thus
proved plague-infected and must go in quarantine for
fifteen days. As quarantine scares them to death we
had no complaints!

Then we went up to call on the Provincial Com-
missioner, who proved to be the brother of that Home
we formerly met at Meru. This is a very tall man, so
he is known as Long Home, and the other as Short
Home. He was extraordinarily cordial, and sent off a
wire to a man at Muhoroni asking about cob. Also
invited us to lunch. We captured our men and made
camp in an open space under a "bologna sausage tree."

Kisumu must be described in three parts: (i) At the
water 's edge are many huge corrugated iron structures
representing goods stores, machine shops, customs, and
shipyards. The ships are sent out in numbered pieces,
and are here put together like a jigsaw puzzle. Then
on the flat a little removed is a village of Indian dukkas
and native huts. Then up on a low volcanic ridge are
the houses and offices of the Europeans. These are
pretty scattered, have gardens, stone walls, shaded

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 263

streets or roads, and are generally quite attractive.
The view out over the Kavirondo GuH and the
mountains and valley is very fine; and were it not for
the climate the place would be very attractive.

The climate is bad, however. You see there many a
big husky man; but his eyes are restless, his manner
nervous, and his frequent laugh loud and forced almost
to a note of hysteria. Plague is always present among
the swarming natives; meningitis is creeping in; and
sleeping sickness is so near that it is a dread and a threat.
Doctor Moett, the medical officer, is immensely busy —
and immensely pleased and interested. He set a dozen
wire traps, caught a dozen plague rats, and left the lot
by his laboratory door, pending investigation. When he
went to look for them an hour or so later, they had gone.
Only the empty traps! Summoned his boys.

"Oh, yes, we know where the rats are; we ate them;
isn't that what the bwana caught them for?"

"And they were plague rats!" concluded the doctor
pathetically.

Home's house is in the middle of a lovely garden
which would drive a garden lover crazy with its tropi-
cal stuff, and is a wide, cool, rambling structure with
shady verandas. We had a good lunch, and Cuning-
hame and I were so pleased that after Home had gone
back to his office we remained loafing in his easy chairs.
So later he asked us to dine, an invitation we accepted
shamelessly.

264 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

Home is very much interested in opening his dis-
trict by means of good roads (in the native sense). He
tried in vain to get the chiefs interested; and finally hit
on the happy idea of a bicycle for each chief and an
askari to teach him to ride. Now it is not unusual to
see a naked savage hiking along in the depths of Africa
on a glittering wheel. And every time he comes a crop-
per he gets out a thousand men or so to fix the road!
There has been a good deal of interest for some time
over a reported new animal in the back country. There-
fore a certain official was more than delighted when two
of his askaris came in to report that they had been
chased by and had shot such an animal. Being an
official he sent forth official commands that any dead
animal found anywhere near that place belonged to
him; and he sent out parties in all directions to search.
After all these preparations had been made up comes a
sad-eyed Indian.

''Please, bwana,'^ says he, "I want 50 rupees be-
cause your askari kiUs my donkey."

As illustrating settler methods Home told us of the
man who was digging a well and ran into a rock twenty
feet down. Drilled it, put in dynamite, but was un-
able to touch it off for lack of enough fuse. The usual
asinine bystander had a bright idea. They arranged
the detonators, rolled a big rock to the edge of the hole,
stood at a distance and thrust it in with a pole. The
rock failed to explode the detonators, but most effect-

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 265

ually blocked the well! He also told of the man who
put a rain gauge on his flat roof. After the first rain
he sent his clerk up to read it. The clerk reported
thirty-one inches. Disbelief; proof; investigation! It
turned out that an askari was posted on the roof at
night, and that the rain gauge's purpose had been mis-
taken by that askari.

CHAPTER XXIII

October 15. — After a long wait and many excur-
sions of inquiry we got a reply to our telegram. As
cob were said to frequent Kibigori we packed up and
set forth at 10:5c. The march struck across the flat,
and was exceedingly hot. No particular features to
record except that the numerous groups of native
huts were invariably located in circles of large shady
trees, the result of the growth of stakes planted as
palisades. The surroundings were exactly like those
of the San Fernando Valley, so that the California
readers need no further description. To the others
I can only say — mountains on three sides, sea on
the other, nearly flat valley with occasional low rolling
ridges in the middle. Valley sixty miles by about
twenty-five.

At the end of three hours we came to the edge of a
barranca in the depths of which flowed a swift little
stream. A fine, upstanding Kavirondo damsel stood
knee-deep, busily engaged in washing out a flat basket-
ful of beans. She had a string of beads about her neck,
armlets, a leather string about her waist, and three
mosquitoes. However, that did not seem to bother

her. She chatted merrily to us, told us there was no

266

a o
o "^

ft! U

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 267

more water for sixteen miles, and passed up gourdfuls
for our men to drink.

In the next week I saw many of these Kavirondos,
men, women, and children. A majority of them were
stark naked. Those that were partially clothed wore
the garments as ornaments only. Since they know
no harm in nakedness, they of course exhibit not the
faintest trace of embarrassment or self-consciousness;
so that in a wonderfully brief space of time one comes to
accept the fact. One would naturally imagine that a
totall}- naked people would be far down in the human
scale, and would exhibit the lowest t}^e of sa\'agery.
This is not the case Save for the one fact of naked-
ness they are rather above the average. They make
ver>^ good houses, which they keep clean and the earth
around which the}' keep swept. Their personal habits
are cleanly. They raise a variety of crops, which they
store in well-made granaries. In natural intelligence
they seem to be above the average in the way of being
quick to catch a meaning, take a joke, etc. Physically
they are one of the finest races in East and Central Africa,
tall, well proportioned, upright. The men are wonder-
ful, with big frames, developed muscles, yet free from
clumsiness. The women, too, are very fine, especially
before the age of twenty-five or so; after which, as
always in the low, hot countries, the breasts are apt to
fall. Both sexes are fond of shaving their heads in
queer patterns, which seem to have no uniformit>' and

268 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

to signify nothing except the taste of the individual.
All other hair on their faces and bodies is most care-
fully removed. Brass wire alone seems desired. It is
worn moderately, only small collars, armlets, and leg-
lets. The unmarried women wear nothing at all. The
married women tie on a sort of tail behind made ex-
actly like an old-fashioned bell-cord tassel, but very
much larger. They occasionally carry also a small white
goatskin burned or branded in stripes like a zebra.
This probably has some especial significance, for when
I tried to buy one I failed at any price.

"If I sell this I will die," they told me.

They are a friendly people, and it was a real pleasure
occasionally to squat in one of their enclosed villages
and jaw with them. Everything was clean and swept,
nobody was greased and daubed (though many painted
their faces) , and there seemed a lot of spare hilarious good
nature. At the very first it was hard not to be a little
embarrassed at being surrounded by so many full-grown
ladies without a stitch, but they were all so blissfully
unconscious of anything out of the way that I ended by
becoming so myself ! Those who know these people well
teU me that they are the most chaste of all the tribes.

Influenced by the damsel's information about water,
we camped in an old cornfield at the edge of the bar-
ranca. There was no shade and no firewood; but we
threw our blankets over the tents, and cooked with
cornstalks.

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 269

Two and three fourth hours; 6 miles; morning (?);
noon, 99; night, 75. Very humid.

October 16. — We were off by the first of daylight in
order to avoid some of the heat. Passed many villages.
From one of them came a wailing of many people that
rose and fell in the wierdest manner. One of our Kavi-
rondo porters told us that it meant somebody had just
died. Saw a great many bustards and the beautiful
golden-crested Kavirondo crane. Would very much
have liked one of the latter, but did not dare shoot. The
country was absolutely flat; villages and natives were
everywhere, and no one could tell where a bullet would
stop. We passed many people, and never ceased ad-
miring their splendid physical proportions. One group
of men with spears were all over six feet with deep
chests and the developed muscles of the best Greek
sculpture.

After six and one half hours ' march (fifteen and one
half miles) we reached Kibigori; and very glad to do so,
for the sun is here very strong. We walked directly
through the station and camped under a solitary tree
on a height above the river. By five o'clock we had
found and engaged two shenzis who claimed to know
where cob are to be found. Rained hard late in the
afternoon.

Elevation, 3,960; morning, 60; noon, 96; night, 74.

October 17. — We started out with our two shenzis,
but before we had gone far we had collected a dozen,

270 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

all anxious for meat. Villages everywhere, and the
country not much broken. However, after tramping
for some distance through thickly populated open land-
scape, we came to a narrow strip of "wild" country
lying in the triangle where two streams meet. This
was a very small bit indeed, and was composed of
alternate small thickets and rolling high-grass knolls,
with a narrow strip of forest along the course of the
river. It was about a mile and a half long, by half a
mile at its greatest width. Immediately it became
evident that unless the cob was a particularly foolish
beast we would never get near any of them with the
procession we were dragging about. Therefore we
squatted the lot on a knoll and told them to stay put.
A hundred yards on we began to see cob in the very
tall grass. They were about the size and colour of im-
palla, and went bounding and popping about in elusive
and disconcerting fashion. We sneaked here and there
catching an occasional glimpse. The beasts were not
very wild, but it was almost impossible to get a plain
sight of them. Finally got a good ofThand chance at
a reasonable distance — and missed! No excuse, ex-
cept that owing to continued heat and hard work I
had a streak of bad holding. Immediately set out in
pursuit and fired four more shots without result. This
was very sad.

We went on, crossing the stream on the men's backs,
and working cautiously down through another strip of

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 271

cover along the side of the river. Saw no animals, and
only a few old tracks.

The Kavirondo now began to come down from their
\illages into the swamps and thickets to cut firewood
and thatch; and our guides, who seemed to know the
game thoroughly, told us we might as well quit, as now
the cob would all retire into the densest cover. There-
fore we again crossed the river pickaback and started
for camp. On the way we ran smack onto a fine
buck cob, in plain sight, broadside on, about 200
yards away. It was a good fair chance, but I missed
him, and also two other take-a-chance shots at long
range as he went. Had the same sort of nervous jerks
as my other bad streak. Hard luck to get this case of
"willies" just when we are after a rarity. Too much
work and sun. Overcast, with heavy showers all the
afternoon. The weather is very oppressive. Rain all
night.

Twelve and a half miles; morning, 65; noon, 94;
night, 68.

October 18. — Regretted still more yesterday's slump
in shooting when we hunted aU morning without seeing
a hoof. Covered the same ground as yesterday, and
now find that there is in all the country no other place
for cob! I think we have taken the entire cob census
— three or four bucks and a dozen does.

After we had looked the field all over thoroughly, we
made some visits among the villages, and had a lot of

272 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

fun. One place seemed to have struck an umbrella
craze. Everybody, who was anybody, owned one, and
it was certainly very funny to see stark-naked people
under opened sunshades. In each village one or more
talked Swahili, and we conversed at length. Things
were always swept clean, with no filth. I liked the
people. One very polite person informed me, in an-
swer to a question:

"I have two children alive, and one that has just
finished dying." This was a literal translation of what
he said.

Rested in the heat of the day, and out again in the
same country in the afternoon. Had the good luck to
see three cob, and by a most careful (probably needlessly
careful) stalk got in range. Hit two of them badly
before they got off; and I got one, and Cuninghame
finished the other in the high grass. Dozens of Kavi-
rondo came running from everywhere at the sound of
the shots. We wanted the meat for ourselves, but
they took the entrails down to the very last bit. Glad
we have the beasts, as the double walk every day in
this climate is killing work.

Eighteen and a half miles; morning, 58; noon, 96;
night, 69.

October 19. — Went out alone with Kongoni on the
chance of seeing another cob. Blundered into a bush-
buck and killed it. It proved to have a whacking big
head — sixteen and a half inches as opposed to about

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 273

twelve inches of my others. The Kavirondo gathered,
and I promised them the meat if they would stand for
photos in their village. They are very shy of the
camera. To this they agreed, but even as it was they
dove for blankets, skins, etc., before they would pose.
I do not think this indicated any sense of feeling naked,
but rather a vain desire to show off their wealth. In
the afternoon I again covered the little round but saw
nothing. In the meantime Cuninghame had struck
camp, and when I got in all was ready for the train.
At 8 :oo we started for Nairobi.

Seven and three quarter miles; morning, 59; noon, 97;
night (?).

CHAPTER XXIV

This practically completed the trip into the "new"
country- . The rest of the journal is here included
simply for what interest may inhere in it as a hunting
narrative. On our return to Nairobi we resolved to go
into the forests about Mount Kenia in search of elephant.
There are a great many elephant there, but they dwell
in such thick jungle and are so truculently inclined that
Cuninghame had uttered his intention of never going
after them again. However, he changed his mind in the
enthusiasm of camp-fire talk. We purposed paying off
a portion of our men, and sending a small safari on to
Fort Hall — four days' march. There we would join
them by the new Thika tramway and two days ' march.
(The Journal Resumes)

October 20. — Have only to record the extreme
pleasure we felt at our first gulp of the cooler air of the
highlands. For some months we have been in a high,
humid temperature, day and night; and we have al-
most forgotten what cool air feels like. At Nairobi ran
into James Barnes who, with Cherry Kearton, is out
here taking moving pictures of game. He says they
have films of thirty-three species, none of them fright-
ened in any way.

274

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 275

October 21. — Down to the store at 9:00 and found
Cuninghame paying off some of the men and so chat-
tering and wild with fever that he hardly knew what he
was doing. Several of us had to exert mild force to
get him awa}', as he was sufficiently out of his head to
feel that he ought to work. Twenty men had already
started for Fort Hall before this attack came on.
Wired them to sit down there until they heard from us;
and got Cuninghame to bed. Dined with the New-
lands. The other evening Wuznam, the game ranger,
was riding along near Nairobi on a motorcycle and was
for some distance pursued by a lion! I wonder what
sort of game the beast thought he was chasing! And
isn't it a "comic supplement" picture!

October 22-28 inclusive. — In Nairobi waiting for
Cuninghame to get well. We moved him up to New-
land 's house. Everybody was most kind to me, and I
did not take a dinner at the hotel. Occupied the day-
time in making maps, writing, etc. A good deal of rain
at night and in showers.

October 29. — Started at 10:30 for Fort Hall in a
twenty-horsepower Minerva touring car that had seen
better days. It was a terribly heavy piece of ordnance
for its power, but it had four speeds. The chap who
drove it was firmly convinced that it could not last
much longer anyhow and he might as well use it while
it held together. Also the Fort Hall road is no level
macadamized boulevard! We charged down hills and

276 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

across the flats with a grand clatter and bang, bouncing
in and out of holes with such a whack that we had hard
work to stick in; and crawled slowly up hills on our
lower gears. However it was a heap faster than safari;
and by a little after noon we had reached Blue Post —
ordinarily a two days' journey ! Ate lunch there; and
reached Fort Hall at 4:00. Our boys seemed glad to
see us, and had camp all fixed in shape. Fort Hall is
situated on one of the long tongues of land that radiate
out from Kenia, with a canon several hundred feet deep
on either side. Usual officials' quarters, askari tents,
and Indian dukkas. Many trees and green grass.
Met the A. D. C, Lawford by name, a young and en-
thusiastic chap who had killed his first lion and could
talk of little else. Mrs. Lawford gave us tea. Rained
in the night, so we were very glad we had finished the
motor-car end of the journey.

Night, 70.

October 30. — Dropped down from the tongue of land
to a vigorous mountain stream, followed it a short
distance, wriggled through a pass in the hills, and
rested at the celebrated government bridge across the
Tana. This is the Kikuyu country, and the shamhas
are everywhere. As it is now the beginning of the
small rains, everybody is farming. The soil is turned
up by means of a pointed stick. It would astonish one
who had never seen it to observe how well the ground
is prepared and over how great an extent. Both men

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 277

and women work in the fields at this the rush season,
though generally the woman does the labour. A banana
leaf skirt is the sign of husbandry, and is only donned
when farming is on. There is a good deal of system in
the way old bean stalks, etc., are gathered in rows and
finally disposed of by burning. In addition to the bean
fields and grain fields are many large banana groves.

At the bridge we found a native spear market, and a
native general market. The latter consists in bringing
what you have to sell or barter and displaying it under
a suitable tree. Here we procured a guide. The net-
work of hills from here to the slopes proper of Kenia is
so complicated, the cafions between them so deep, and
the cultivation so shifting that even Kongoni, who
had been up here several times, would not undertake to
find the way. We marched until about noon, the foot-
hills getting gradually higher; then camped in an old
bean field. Rained heavily in the afternoon ; but at 5 130
Kenia broke through the clouds, glittering like an opal-
escent jewel of a mountain far in the depths of an
African evening sky. Feeling seedy.

Four hours fifty minutes; 12 miles; morning, 64; noon,
94; night, 66.

October 31. — We now began to thread our way along
high rounded ridges between which were tremendous
canons and dashing streams of water. The huts clung
to the side hills, or were perched atop the divides. A
high growth of bracken or blackberry^ vines clothed all

278 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

the country with a green mantle ten feet high. The
paths ran like narrow lanes through this rank growth.
Although at one time forested there were now no trees,
with the exception of solitary specimens perched here and
there on commanding heights. Cuninghame says these
have been spared because they are considered sacred.
At many of the villages the natives were making
tembo*

A log with many shallow holes connected by channels
and a hard rounded stick as pestle was the whole appa-
ratus. A string of women brought up loads of the
sugar cane. Others hacked off the outer covering and
shredded the pulp. A third lot pounded out the juice.
After it should have fermented to a certain point it
would be drawn off in gourds. Then the village drunk!

Our guide, becoming a trifle uncertain, called in from
time to time the assistance of others. They dropped
whatever they were doing, and quite cheerfully walked
an hour or so over these ungodly hills, and then said
farewell. All this without reward of any kind. It
rained heavily from time to time, and we became well
soaked through. In addition the downpour made the
clay of the hills very slippery. As a consequence it
was not until about three o 'clock that we burst out of
this vine country to a little open space. Here abruptly
began the forest.

Near the edge of the forest stood silently a dozen

* Native beer.

THE COUNTRY OUTSIDE THE ELEPHANT FOREST

THE UPPER TANA RIVER NEAR FORT HALL

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 279

naked red-brown savages with spears. They were
fine, lithe creatures. The news of our coming had gone
ahead of us, and they were waiting for us. Cuning-
hame is well known among these wild people. Follow-
ing closely on their heels we plunged into the deep
woods, and after a half-hour turning, twisting, and
ducking about, apparently at random, we popped out
into a tiny grass meadow right in the middle of the big
trees. It was about 100 yards in diameter, like a
shallow saucer in shape. This, Cuninghame explained,
was his customary camp, known as "Tembo Circus."
Even he, many times as he has been here, is unable to
find it without the help of his Wanderobo friends; and
many other people have tried in vain to reach it.

We made camp, and managed to get a fire going and
to dry off. Everything was steaming with dampness.
Occasionally low heavy clouds swept across and dumped
their contents down on us. The tops of the great
trees by which we were surrounded often touched the
lower fringes of these clouds.

Let us now consider why I am here, anyway. Be-
fore I went to Africa the first time, I rather looked
down on elephant shooting. "Anybody ought to be
able to hit an elephant, " said I to myself. It seemed to
me a good deal like shooting at a barn. Beside which,
I had a soft spot in my heart for my old circus friend.

But I had not been very long in Africa before I be-
gan to modify my ideas. In the first place, the African

28o THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

elephant was not my old circus friend at all, but a beast
two and a half feet taller, very much longer, and pos-
sessed of a truculent disposition. Nobody has suc-
cessfully domesticated the African elephant, much less
taught him to work and be useful. Carthage used him
in war, but even for that purpose was able to employ
only the immature beasts of a northerly race now ex-
tinct. In the second place, the African elephant — un-
less one makes a special very long unhealthy journey
— is to be found only in thick forests where one can see
but a few yards in any direction. The hunter has to
approach very near before he can see to shoot. Further-
more, since the law prohibits the shooting of cows and
of bulls with tusks that weigh less than thirty pounds
each, he must maneuver to examine his beast, and
must arrange to back out again — -undiscovered — if the
elephant is not the right sort of an elephant. As there
may be forty others scattered about, and as any of the
forty, on getting his wind, will tell the others about
him, and as the lot will probably then try deliberately
to kill him, it will be seen that the game is not so sim-
ple as it first appears. Furthermore, an elephant can
travel faster than a man; he can break any tree the
ordinary man can climb; and he is exceedingly per-
sistent. And, finally, it is not at all like shooting at a
barn. There is just one spot, three inches wide by
seven inches long, where a shot is instantly fatal; and
only a few other small places where a shot even does

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

2S1

any ultimate good. One must know his anatomy; and
even then it is generally very difficult to make out
fatal spots through the dimness and the screen of a
forest. And, lastly, an elephant is a great traveller; so
that a fresh trail means little unless it is instantly and
rapidly followed. When I had learned these things I
began to see the reason for Cuninghame's emphatic
statement : that the man who got his bull elephant — in
this country — had earned him.

Cuninghame is the greatest elephant man in Africa.
Therefore when three years ago he told me that never
again would he go among the elephants of Kenia, I
believed him.

"They are getting too kali,'^ said he; "it isn't good
enough. They have got so that if they hear a shot or a
broken twig even, or smell the faintest indication of a
human being, they come for him at once."

Then I talked to a member of the Swedish Zoological
Expedition. He had gone up to Kenia with Cuning-
hame to get elephant. The hunt ended by Cuning-
hame's going down into the herd and killing the beast.
He also fired twelve shots from his heavy gun merely to
keep off the herd. He himself acknowledged that twice
he had nearly been caught.

"I wouldn't have gone among that screaming lot of
devils for anything onearth," the Swede told me frankly.
"I told Cuninghame if he was fool enough to do so, he
had my permission. I sat down on a rock."

282 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

Nevertheless, here we were! It is always that way
with hunters ' good resolutions.

After tea we called up the Wanderobo for a shauri.
The Wanderobo are little wild men, forest dwellers,
who have no houses, no crops, no cattle; whose sole
possessions are a few wire ornaments, their bows and
arrows, skin robes, and a wonderful instinctive knowledge
of the woods. These four knew Cuninghame of old
and were willing to trust him. Very few people ever
get to see them at all. They agreed that they should
go scouting in different directions to-morrow, on the
search for fresh tracks, while we awaited in camp for
the first report.

CHAPTER XXV

The forests of Kenia are of hardwood. They grow
on the lower slopes of the mountains, extending up to
the 8,000-9,000 mark, where they are succeeded by the
bamboos. Therefore the surface of the country they
cover is hilly, consisting of long spur-like ridges or
hogsbacks with steep sides separated by deep canons
and short lateral ravines. The forest growth itself is
of three kinds: Imagine, first, the planting of single
great spreading trees at spaced intervals; trees in shape
like elms, maples, or beeches, but three or four times
their size. Fill in the spaces between them with a very
thick growth of smaller trees — one hundred feet high
and a foot or so through. Then below that a leafy
undergrowth, so dense as to be literally impenetrable
to either sight or locomotion. This undergrowth is of
many varieties. It puts out big leaves, small leaves;
grows on hard stems, watery soft stems; it stands a foot
high or forty — generally both. Vines of all sizes tie it
together; vines ranging in size from little tough ones as
small as a whipcord through which you think you can
push easily (you cannot !) up to big cables. Underfoot
are ferns. Along the slanting trunks of trees grow
other ferns and damp mosses. Streamers of moss de-

^83

284 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

pend from limbs and sway in the currents of air.
Orchids cling. All small dead twigs are muffled tightly
in vivid moss. On the slopes of the canons and the
heads of ravines are little forests of tree ferns, feathery
and beautiful. These run to thirty feet in height.

Everything is dripping wet. Indeed the strongest
single impression that remains to me of that forest is
that it was a varnished forest; every leaf, every branch,
every smooth surface shines polished. Always in the
ear is a slow and solemn dripping.

When one, with difficulty, forces himself ten feet
from the track, he knows not where he can go next.
Were it not for elephant tracks he could not get about
at aU. Old tembo makes nothing of what to his little
enemy is an impenetrable jungle. When he wants to
go anywhere, he goes; and he pushes aside trees as we
push aside blades of grass. Nothing inspires more awe
and respect for these animals than, first, these paths
broken through the jungle; and, second, the sight of the
great beasts themselves, calmly, ruthlessly, without
hurry, without effort, bursting the barrier of the forest.

Another impression of the unique character of this
forest for two days eluded my analysis. I felt that
here was something strange and unusual, but I could
not seize it. It made its impress, and yet it eluded;
and in the end it haunted me, worried me, as the for-
getting of a name that one has "on the tip of the
tongue." Finally I got it. Here are no "dead and

ONE OF THE "dEROBO" ELEPHANT HUNTERS

SAVAGES IN THE ELEPHANT FOREST

n'JAHGI (reader's right) ANU ills HEAD ASSISTANT

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 2S5

dowTi" trees. These massive giants fall at such in-
tervals; and they are so immediately absorbed by the
forces of dampness and decay! With us a down tree
may lie twenty years or more before it disintegrates.
Here it is gone in two.

.In daytime these forests seem almost void of life.
There are few birds, few visible or audible animals, few
insects. Silence holds, save for the voices of the wind
or the rain. But with the fall of dusk strange creatures
awaken. Leopards sigh and the tree hyraxes and the
colobus raise their strange and eerie cries. There are
few wilder sounds in nature than the long mournful
crescendo shriek of the female hyrax. It is demoniac.
The moment the night is dark they begin, near the
very edge of the camp, in the blackness of the depths
beyond, far off in the distance, like lost souls groping
and crying for each other's guidence.

November i. — Early in the morning the Wanderobo
prepared to set forth. The pursuit of the elephant is
much more than a sporting incident in their lives; it is a
real and solemn end of existence. Before starting out
they drew a little to one side, squatted in a circle, and
made medicine. It was really impressive. An old man
performed the ritual, raising his hands, palm up, to
heaven; facing in turn to all points of the compass;
bending humbly, his hands crossed on his breast; call-
ing on the forest and the Powers in a loud voice. The
others, their heads low, muttered choral responses, and

286 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

at times beat the earth softly in unison with the palms
of their hands. It was genuine "high church" for
them, and when they had finished they arose and im-
mediately disappeared in the forest.

The morning was clear. At about eleven, however,
the clouds blackened with inconceivable rapidity, and
in ten minutes rain was falling heavily. At about the
same time in came two of the Wanderobo to tell us that
they had actually seen an elephant. Immediately we
called the gunbearers and plunged into the dripping
woods. We followed our two Wanderobo at a great
pace for two hours, crossing two deep caiions on the way.
It rained steadily all the time and we were soon wet and
soggy. Once N'jahgi, the elder, pointed to a hoUow in
a tree closed by a rude door of bark, and gave us to un-
derstand that it was one of his residences. On top of
the last ridge above the second stream they showed us
some red mud rubbed smooth and shiny, as though
with an immense trowel, and plastered high up on the
trunk of a big tree.

After staring at it a moment I realized that here an
elephant had rubbed his huge flanks, and was amazed
at the height of the mud above the ground. We
followed that elephant 's spoor until three o 'clock. He
wandered steadily up the slope of the hogsback to-
ward the mountain. Sometimes his great footprints
were as plain and about as large as a foot- tub; at others
they could be distinguished only with the greatest

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 287

difficulty, and the 'derobo had to look very carefully at
the junction of two elephant trails to see whether the
beast had gone on one or the other. Going up or down
hill he had made some grand slippery slides in the red
clay, and we had a high old time getting up at all. It
was like climbing an icy roof. At three o'clock we had
to turn back. It was that or spend the night in the
forest. The rain continued. Our little Wanderobo
shivered like dogs, and wrung out their little pieces of
cotton cloth. When we got to camp we gave them
each a blanket.

The men had succeeded in coaxing up good fires; and
had built an open-front shelter for the savages. We
got into dry clothes. At dusk the rain ceased; and
almost immediately the demons of the forest lifted up
their wild shriekings again. I feel I can hardly ex-
aggerate the wild and uncanny effect of these voices.

November 2. — We now prepared in earnest to follow
the trail of the elephant, and to stay by the spoor until
we came up with him. We took one light tent, blank-
ets, and some cold food.

Before we started the Wanderobo again made medi-
cine; for the pursuit of an elephant is a very solemn
thing. Each snipped a link from his ornamental steel
chain; one produced an old dried piece of elephant
meat; another built a tiny fire. The elephant meat
was thrown on the coals, and the links of chain laid atop
it. N'jahgi performed the ritual while the rest of us

288 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

squatted in a circle below him. As yesterday, he
raised his hands, palm up, to the skies; he faced in turn
all parts of the compass; he bent humbly, his hands
crossed on his breast, calling on the forest, the Powers,
and the gods of elephants in a loud monotone. The
others, once more, their heads low, muttered choral
responses, and at times beat the earth softly, in unison,
with the palms of their hands. Then suddenly they
rose and disappeared, leaving us by the little fire.
After a short interval they returned, bringing tufts of
some herb. These N'jahgi dipped in the white ashes,
and with them spattered each countenance, muttering
some sort of a charm. The herbs were distributed.
Each sat on his share, while N'jahgi intoned another
invocation. Obeying a gesture we arose and started
for the forest. But this was not all. At the beginning
of the elephant spoor the little men all knelt down in a
row, beat the earth softly with their palms, shook their
herb bundles in the air, bent forward and blew three
times on the trail. Then they planted the herbs be-
neath trees on either side of the trail. We started in
good earnest.

It rained steadily. For three hours we followed the
Wanderobo at a great pace, crossing two deep cafions
on the way. At dark we camped where we found our-
selves. The rain continued. Our little Wanderobo
shivered like dogs.

It took half an hour to make a fire. These tropical

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 289

forests are almost hopelessly without the facilities our
own woods offer for such a purpose. There is no
dry wood, no tinder, no green wood carrying pitch.
Every dead twig is sodden through ; the under sides of
down or slanting trees have become wet by capillary
attraction. A pinch of powdered bark is a treasure to
be gained only by long searching. At the end of the
full half hour our united efforts gained us a sort of dull
smoulder, without flame. Some one had to blow on it
continually to keep it from going out. Only late in
the evening did it spring into a flame that had value for
drying; and even then a relaxation of vigilance would
drop it back to a sullen smoking mockery. As we were
soaked through, and our tent was wet, and we had
only cold mutton, bread, and peanuts to eat, this was
not the most comfortable camp in the world. How-
ever, we smoked our pipes.

CHAPTER XXVI

November 3. — This morning the spoor led us up be-
yond the forested belt and into the bamboos. It was
like a fairyland — sometimes a i-ather steep and scrambly
fairyland, but full of glades and little levels. The
bamboo is of the giant type, thirty to fifty feet tall,
and from four to six inches in diameter. The stalk is
bright green. Its tendency is to grow evenly thick and
impenetrable, but that tendency has been modified by
the tramping of generations of elephants, so that in all
directions through it are winding paths, short vistas,
and tiny open glades.

Sometimes it is as dark as evening; and as mysteri-
ous. Sometimes the light strikes down brilliantly from
above. Underfoot the whole surface of the ground is
carpeted with tiny feather ferns only an inch or so
high, indescribably soft and beautiful. Occasionally in
the more open places these spring to the dimensions of
bracken. And occasionally, too, we came upon single
wide-spreading trees that had cleared themselves a
space amid the bamboo, like rest houses beneath which
to stop.

Everything is green — the bamboo stalks, the fine

soft ground covering, the damp moss that seems im-

290

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 291

mediately to cover the dead stalks, the shadows, the
very light itself striking through the feathery tops.
There is here no active animal or bird life; and there-
fore it is extraordinarily quiet. No sharp sound breaks
the stillness; only are heard the hushed rustling of the
slender bamboo leaves far above and the muffled drip-
ping of the rain. A mysterious, cool, green, quiet
place, like the bottom of the sea.

In the bamboos one can never see over ten yards,
and rarely that. They offer no barrier whatever to an
elephant. If one should come upon him at the wrong
end, so to speak, he would have to back out and go
around. These considerations made us rejoice when
our elephant's spoor led us down again and into the
forest.

All this, while interesting, was hard, hard work for
everybody. It now came on to rain harder than ever;
in fact the torrent roared down on us so copiously that
we could not face it and had to get beneath the slanting
trunks of trees until it had eased up a bit. Here we
made shift to eat a few potio cakes, peanuts, and choco-
late. After a bit we went on.

About one o'clock suddenly we heard him trumpet.
The sound was very loud, and like a rather shrill loco-
motive whistle. We went on cautiously. The trail
led us down the middle of a stream for some distance,
so we had to wade nearly up to our waists; but we were
already well soaked, so we did not much mind. The

292 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

beast was wandering along aimlessly. We followed
two hours without being able to catch up. Then ab-
ruptly we all saw him, about sixty yards away, down
through a chance thinning in the smaller trees. At
the very instant, without a sound, he seemed to evapo-
rate into thin air. Never would I have believed so
enormous a creature could have moved so quickly and
so silently through that dense cover. If it had not
been for his indubitable spoor, I should almost have
been willing to believe him a creature of the imagination.
But for the brief instant I had seen him plainly. My
most vivid impression was of his length, for I had not
realized how "long coupled" the African elephant is as
compared to the Indian elephant we see in circuses.
The next most vivid impression was of his bulk and the
golden yellow effect of his tusks against the dimness of
the forest.

We had made no noise, but an eddy had swept our
wind around to him.

We sent back one of the Wanderobo to bring up the
men; and again took the trail. At five o'clock, as he
was still travelling, we reluctantly came to a halt.
Another cold camp in the rain — a cheerless, wet, smoky
camp; and we took our water supply from the natural
reservoir of one of the elephant's footprints!

November 4. — This morning we followed on until
eleven o 'clock in generally southeast direction, wander-
ing in the heavy forests, in the lower fringe of bamboo,

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 293

and occasionally out to openings grown twenty feet
high with vines and bush undergrowth, but from which
we could see the sky. At last Cuninghame stopped
short with an exclamation of dismay.

"We're in for it now!" he whispered.

The side hill looked as though an avalanche had
swept down it. Our elephant had joined a herd!

Almost immediately afterward we heard a queer,
subdued, roaring sound, exactly like distant thun-
der. This was the stomach rumbling that attends
an elephant's digestion. I had heard of it, but I
had not before realized how loud it is nor how far it
carries.

Elephants were trumpeting on the hill opposite; the
occasional distant thunder sound rumbled across to us;
every few moments a rending crash startled us like
a distant pistol shot. We gazed anxiously at the moss
dependent from the higher trees, to ascertain the di-
rection of the wind. We left all but N'jahgi and
Kongoni, and moved cautiously in the general direction
of the row.

We tried to keep well to leeward of the whole lot;
but twice outlying elephants somewhere to our right
trumpeted or rumbled, and twice we backed out and
tried again, before we had given them our wind. We
had first of all to get outside of every beast before we
could begin to look for individuals. Thus we descended
our side hill, and prepared to cross to the other. At

294 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

the bottom I happened to be a little above the others
and so was in a position to see plainly an elephant
walking leisurely down into the same hollow from the
other side. He was only about fifty yards away, and
looked as big as the Flatiron building. I snapped my
fingers and so got hold of Cuninghame and Kongoni,
but N'jahgi was too far ahead, and wound his un-
conscious way steadily toward the great beast. A
head-on meeting seemed inevitable; but Kongoni, on
inspiration, chucked a piece of earth into the high
grass near N'jahgi. The savage caught the slight
sound of its falling, and looked back. We motioned
him to us, and the situation was saved. The elephant
pushed his way slowly into the thick forest.

Now directly ahead we heard the sound of trumpet-
ing, crashing, heavy snorting. We crept forward like
snakes, our eyes straining into the dimness. Cuning-
hame paused to whisper back to me :
"This is highly dangerous, you know!"
I was glad to get my own impressions corroborated
by an expert. The great beasts were all about us, yet
we could not see twenty yards. All we could do was to
listen and look and move forward by inches. Cuning-
hame had told me that when among elephants I should
always keep clearly in my mind my line of retreat;
must know exactly where I intended to dive in case of
trouble. I kept picking out places and discarding
them as they fell too far in the rear; though none of

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 295

them looked as though they would offer an insoluble
problem to a really unkind elephant.

Thus we crept for a quarter of a mile. Then we
came to a tiny opening in the forest ; that opening was
chock full of elephants. They stood lazily, having a
good time, swinging their trunks, flapping their ears,
blinking their little eyes. Occasionally one of them
would trumpet loudly. There were perhaps a dozen in
sight, beside a lot of young ones whose backs just
showed above the vegetation. To judge by the sounds,
there must have been twice as many more just inside
the fringe of the forest. We paused.

"What next?" I whispered.

"Go up and look at them," replied Cuninghame.

As we were at the moment within eighty yards of
them, this seemed an act of supererogation. However, I
followed my leader. Cuninghame turned to whisper
another warning:

"For God's sake move quietly. If one discovers us,-
the whole lot will come after us."

We crept to within forty yards and stopped. Cun-
inghame examined them in detail for "shootable
ivory." I examined them in detail for indications of
suspicious dispositions It seemed incredible that they
did not see us, for our heads and shoulders were in
plain sight. Of course we did not move. We stood
there a century or two while those great creatures
enjoyed themselves. Every time one trumpeted, or

296 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

moved, or waved its ears, I got ready to dive for the
"last safe place." That, it seemed to me, was about
eight miles back.

Then, very near — about fifteen yards — and slightly
to our left, the screen of leaves was pushed aside and
the bow of the Mauretania thrust itself through.

"Run!" breathed Cuninghame.

We doubled up and ran. From the edge of the woods
we looked back. The elephant had stopped and was
feeling about in the air with the tip of its trunk.

"That old girl is suspicious," whispered Cuning-
hame, "but she didn't see us."

She said something to the others, and they all waked
up. An animated discussion took place. N'jahgi
quietly climbed a tree. The elephant insisted on her
point. The others were skeptical, but finally seemed
to acquiesce. The whole lot swung deliberately and
disappeared in the forest.

"Thafs all right," said Cuninghame in relief.
"Thought they might come our way."

I was glad, too. For the moment I had quite lost
sight of the fact that I wanted to shoot an elephant.

" What next? " I inquired.

"Follow 'em," said Cuninghame, "and try to find a
bull."

So we followed 'em. Evidently they had not put
much faith in the alarmist, for they had gone only half a
mile. We could hear them in all directions. Unfortu-

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 297

nately they were now in the thickest of the thick forest;
and, having been aroused from their siesta, they had
scattered widely in order to feed. We sneaked here
and there.

Suddenly it began to rain.

Cuninghame made a gesture of despair. When it
rains, elephants cease all occupation and stand as
rigidly quiet as though stuffed. One depends a good
deal upon the sense of hearing. Now the trumpetings
ceased, the crashes of torn branches ceased. A dead
silence fell on the forest, except for the pattering and
swishing of the rain.

Then with terrifying abruptness pandemonium broke
loose — trumpetings, shrill angry screams, wild crash-
ings, headlong rushes to and fro. The forest seemed
overflowing with devils. A twist of the wind had dis-
covered our presence to the herd.

They did not know where we were: only that we
were somewhere. There ensued the most exciting
period I have ever experienced, but whether it was
ten minutes or two hours, I did not know. The ele-
phants screamed and yelled and rushed here and there
looking for us. We could see the tops of the smaller
trees and bushes violently agitated, often within a few
yards, as the beasts passed ; but so thick was the cover
that we did not again actually see them. Our ears
strained for every sound, we ducked and dodged and
sneaked. It was no longer a question of shooting an

298 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

elephant, but of remaining undiscovered — for our lives.
Cuninghame seemed to know more or less of the
probable course of the brutes. When he said run uphill,
I ran uphill; when he whispered run back, I did so.
After what seemed a very long time the row began to
recede.

"That's all right," said Cuninghame. "They've
gone off."

We followed them a short distance. A clear road-
way twenty feet wide had been razed clean where the
herd had come together and gone off in a body. I
looked at my watch and was surprised to find it half-
past three already. We sent N'jahgi back for the men,
and huddled under a couple of big trees.

"Bad luck," said Cuninghame.

I thought it was extraordinarily good luck.

"Want to try again?" asked Cuninghame.

"Of course," said I; "why do you ask that?"

"Well," said he, "some people simply cannot stand
it when the elephants begin to scream about them.
Courageous people, at that. I've had any number
flatly back out and make no bones about it. It's just
the way it happens to hit your nerves."

We camped on the spot, at 7 , 1 50 feet elevation. Two
of the giant forest hogs made off as we came up. We
were so jumpy that they scared us almost to death ! A
lot of Wanderobo came in with provisions. In the even-
ing it stopped raining, and we found some cedar wood

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 299

that would burn. This hard, slippery', twisting work is
beginning to tell on my broken leg. It is badly swollen
and has begun to turn black below the knee. Cuning-
hame and I talked it over and agreed to try one more
day, after which we would return to "Tembo Circus"
for a rest.

November 5. — The fresh Wanderobo brought us
news that an unsuspected portion of the herd had ap-
parently been feeding farther to the north. Therefore
we set off to look for them. Soon struck the spoor,
which led us directly up the mountain. It is astonish-
ing what steep slopes elephants will negotiate. Their
great weight gives them a footing by pushing the solid
earth aside. We zigzagged up a near-perpendicular on
a graded trail that the day before had not existed. The
surface of said graded trail had most evidently not
been metalled. An elephant's foot measures from fifty
inches in circumference; and in soft ground it often
sinks in ten inches to two feet. Each beast steps
accurately in the steps of the one before. The result
is a series of babies' bathtubs, generally half full of
muddy water, and always slippery. We followed this
lot up through the bamboos for two or three hours; then
they got our wind and evidently started off. We heard
them trumpet, but did not see them. At 8,100 feet we
turned back, sliding down the slopes, falling in and out
of the tracks, wading the streams, and keeping a wary
eye for elephant pits. These are everywhere, and are a

300 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

real danger unless you watch out. They are about six
or eight feet long, perhaps three feet wide, and eight or
ten feet deep. Sometimes they are planted with sharp
stakes, and occasionally — but not often — these stakes
are poisoned. A great many of them are disused and
open, so anybody can avoid them by watching out,
but those covered are invisible to all but the Wanderobo.
The only way is to follow the leader; and when the
savage makes a little side-step, to make a little side-
step, too. Shortcuts do not pay. The idea is to get
the elephant's fore legs in this narrow trench; not the
whole beast. It must be an incredible labour to dig
these pits with knives and sticks.

I have been much interested in one of the younger
Wanderobo, a youth of eighteen or so. He is so near
the animal that he is attractive. His forehead is
pinched, his nose wide, his mouth and chin project
actually beyond the nose. But with it all he has the
wistful, soft brown eyes of the monkey; hauntingly pa-
thetic and questing, as though of an intelligence trying to
break through. He is a most skilful tracker; and in
these wet forests no turned leaf or muddied twig es-
capes him. The Wanderobo are queer, primitive little
creatures, absolutely certain and competent in the
forest craft, but equally helpless at everything else.
This is a terrible forest in which to keep one 's bearings ;
for there are no landmarks, no "lay of the land," no
openings. Even the compass is useless, for a straight

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 301

line back to camp — could it be determined — would
merely plunge one into inextricable difficulties. Yet
these men will follow a twisting and doubling spoor for
three days, and then strike accurately out of the forest
to a distant camp. It must be an instinct. But when
the day 's tracking is done they squat down in their wet
blankets, perfectly helpless. The white man builds the
fire, he rigs the shelters, etc. When he is ready, he in-
dicates to the Wanderobo where they are to establish
themselves. Otherwise they would continue squatting
in the same spot until morning!

After we had lost this herd we started back for our
base camp. The three days had about exhausted our
cold food ; and we ourselves were pretty well tired out.
The travel had been hard, wet, and long; the camps
without comfort; and the occasional excitement intense.
My ankle had been so twisted and abused that it was
swollen and turning black so that a day's rest seemed
in every way advisable.

Cuninghame and I had no idea where we might be,
nor how long it would take us to get to camp. Down
through the forest we started and walked until one
o'clock, when we emerged from the woods into the
''vine country." Then we found we had been skirting
the base of Kenia toward the east; and were about half-
way to Embu. It behooved us to retrace our steps.
The three days' hunt, however, could be compressed,
for we had not now to double and twist; we were in a

3o^

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

lower country; and we had a native track on which to
travel. On the other hand, it rained steadily and
heavily; the native track was composed of sticky or
slippery clay, and it had a bad habit of crossing steep
canons at right angles without the slightest attempt at
easing the grades. By putting one foot in front of the
other, however, we made it; though some of us did not
get in until long after dark, and had to be sent for
with lanterns.

CHAPTER XXVII

November 6. — Loafed and rested all day. By luck
we had a bright sun all the morning and were able to
dry out our rather bedraggled belongings. A powerful
chief to the west of Kenia, Kurioki by name, sent me a
present of a sheep and Cuninghame a goat. Why the
invidious distinction I do not know. He also sent two
of his Wanderobo to hunt with us on his side of the
mountain. N'jahgi presented me with his own home-
made knife, ground to razor sharpness. This present
reaUy meant something, for such a weapon is very
valuable to such a man. Our Wanderobo were also
very busy preparing a more powerful elephant medi-
cine, bringing in stalks of sugar-cane from some distant
shamba and thrusting them upright in the ground
either side our tents. The other medicine had brought
us elephants all right : but evidently something lacked.
This was to be especially powerful.

November 7. — To-day we went outside the forest
and marched by native tracks, up and down a fearful
series of hills, until we came to Kurioki 's Land. Here
we picked up the men he had promised us, and re-
entered the forest. The sugar-cane medicine was
fmished. Each man took a piece of the stalk in his

303

304 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

right hand and knelt, facing the trail. N'jahgi cried
out a monologue, his hands raised. At the end of each
phrase the others ejaculated whah ! whah ! deeply as-
pirated, bowed forward, and blew on the ground. Then
the sugar-cane was carefully concealed to right and left
of the trail.

As we marched outside the forest the news of our
presence was cried from hill to hill. The carrying
power of the native voice is astonishing. They do not
shout, they talk, and yet every syllable is distinct
across wide spaces. The speaking voices of the women
are most pleasant, soft and dusky like velvet.

After two hours we came to a group of savages who
announced themselves as sent by Kurioki. Kurioki
himself they excused, saying that he had hurt his leg.
We made more medicine, and plunged again into the
forest. Kurioki's men led us directly to the trail of
yesterday's elephant. We proceeded to follow it.
After three hours the nature of the forest changed
somewhat. We began to come across wide openings,
grown with grass, like Sierra meadows. The forest and
these grass openings divided the slope between them,
the forest running out in tongues, wide peninsulas, and
islands.

"Great luck if we should see Mr. Tembo out here,"
I suggested.

" Only comes out at night," said Cuninghame.

The trail grew dim and almost impossible to follow,

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 305

owing to the fact that the short tough grass sprmgs
back so quickly. Soon we lost it entirely, and sat
down atop anthills while the Wanderobo scattered out
to look. A smart shower drenched us and passed on.
Kenia, behind us to the east, was lost in a mist that
swept the tops of the gloomy forest, but before us we
could see down over the wide country near Olbolosset
and Rumeruti, where we safaried three years ago. We
figured out we were just about sitting on the equator!

We stayed here some time. Then from around the
corner of a big forest patch the youngest Wanderobo
appeared. He was running, so we wxnt to meet him.

"He says they have seen the elephant," Kongoni
translated.

We hurried on after him, descending the long grassy
slope skirting the edge of the forest. At the end of a
mile we came on all the rest of the Wanderobo humped
do\vn behind a single thin bush, their blankets wrapped
around them and their necks outstretched like a lot of
very eager mud turtles. About half a mile away,
walking nonchalantly about in the short grass, was the
elephant, his tusks gleaming against the dark back-
ground of the forest.

Cuninghame, Kongoni, and I darted forward. The
elephant was walking steadily to the left; and we, under
cover of small clumps, were hurrying toward him as
fast as we could in the hope of reaching him before he
reentered the forest. In this we failed, for when we

3o6 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

were within 200 yards he swung sharp to the right,
pushed aside the screen of leaves, and disappeared.

We approached circumspectly. He might continue
on directly into the forest; or, again, he might turn
around and come out again. We glided silently along
the fringe, peering with all our mights. Suddenly
Kongoni motioned us forward. Through a little open-
ing in the leaves we saw the top of his back, twenty-
five yards away. As we looked, he swung slowly
and faded into the forest.

Now we at least knew definitely which way he was
going. As quickly as we could we made our way to
where we had last seen him. This was no easy job, for
the cover was almost impenetrable. In order to get on
noiselessly, we had to lift separately each branch and
twig, to push individually each clump of leaves or in-
terlacement of switches. We had to duck and squirm
and twist and push very gently. A single sharply
broken stick would serve to give him the alarm, in
which case he would either make off and we would not
see him again, or — more likely — he would look us up,
in which case we would see more of him than we wanted.

In spite of the thickness of the growth the elephant
himself went silently through it. That phenomenon —
the stillness of an elephant's leisurely progression — is
hard to get accustomed to. He will brush through
thickets so dense that the branches make an apparently
impenetrable screen and the closest listening will hardly

TYPICAL ELEPHANT C0\:ER

CAMP IN THE FOREST AFTER THE ELEPHANT KILL. MEAT DRYING

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"chopping olt"' the ivory

CARRYING OUT THE IVORY

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 307

be able to determine the fact that he is there at all.
His great weight and the size of his foot breaks in-
stantaneously anything beneath them and crushes the
sound; his vast bulk and length and the soft leathery
quality of his skin probably push aside gently and
muffle the harshness of the branches. However it is,
only twice did we hear the faintest indication that the
elephant was still moving; and we ourselves, as I have
said, were having the greatest trouble to work our way
along at all. The whiplike branches of the thicket
sprang back after the beast, leaving the screen as re-
sistant as ever. Also we could not see ten feet.

The trail led us straight ahead, then doubled back at
a sharp angle, so that at one time the elephant must
have been passing us a short distance to the right. We
crept on for perhaps a quarter of a mile, expecting every
moment we might run against his hind leg. Then
through a chance opening just ahead we saw the wav-
ing of his ears. So close was he that we were looking
up at him as one looks up at a skyscraper. I held for
his brain and pulled trigger. Down he came with a
tremendous crash. The distance was just twelve
paces.

After waiting to see that he was not going to move we
lifted our voices in a cheer that was immediately
answered by the Wanderobo, who had been following
a short distance behind. They came up, and, shortly
after, our men. We got out the little flask, and, stand-

3o8 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

ing either side the great beast, we took a drink "across
the bar. " Next we measured him. He stood ten feet
seven inches at the shoulder (just the height of Jumbo:
the Indian elephant stands about eight feet) ; seventeen
feet six inches "waist measure"; eighteen feet one inch
long counting the trunk. His forefoot was fifty-four
inches around; and his hind foot fifty-one inches. His
tusks weighed fifty-six pounds and fifty- five and three
fourth pounds respectively. While the men started
taxidermal work I made camp. It was now 4:00 p. m.
By pitch dark the headskin was off — no small job. We
cooked some rice. Some cedar wood gave us a good
fire. ThemoonfUtered through the trees. Thehyraxes
screeched; and some leopards and hyenas, attracted
by the smell of meat, snarled and uttered their cries.

Thermometer, morning, 64; night, 54.

November 8. — We sent two of the Wanderobo back
to camp with instructions to bring on all the men and
certain supplies. They returned with them by dark
— a tremendous round trip. All day we did taxidermy.
With the exception of a light shower after lunch the
day was fine. Here near the edge of the forest is much
more life than in the depths; and the singing of birds
was a delight. AH day we kept a piece of elephant
trunk simmering, and at evening we had elephant
trunk soup with rice. It is a very strong, nutritious
brew with a marked flavour of its own, and I rather
like it.

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 309

November 9. — A fine sunny day. About nine o 'clock
a very ancient Wanderobo came in. He looked to be
a hundred years old, his skin wrinkled, his joints big,
his flesh all wasted away to the bones, his frame bent,
his face monkey-like and wizened, his eyes dim and
peering. I have never seen so aged a man afoot and
going. The old chief of the Wasonzi looked as old ; but,
it will be remembered, he was only capable of sitting in
the sun. Nevertheless, this old boy came in quite
briskly, and without greeting or pause set to work in a
most businesslike way. He had on a hyrax-skin cap
and a skin cloak and carried a skin wallet and one
of the soft iron sword-knives. At once he attacked
that elephant, slowly and laboriously sawing off great
chunks of meat and dragging them to a pile beneath a
tree. He was entirely businesslike and paid no at-
tention to anybody. Cuninghame watched him a
while, and then in pity lent him a sharp knife. The
old man took it, handed Cuninghame his old sword,
and by signs commanded the latter to sharpen it!
Cuninghame meekly obeyed! Hour after hour the old
boy delved away at that gigantic carcase, picking out
the choice bits — from a shetizi point of view. It was
cruel, hard work — for anybody — and we fully expected
to see him give out from sheer exhaustion. But
about three or four o'clock in the afternoon other
shenzis began to show up. There was enough for
everybody, but the enterprising ancient had all the

3IO THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

best bits ! They all made camp right next the carcase.
Our men constructed racks on which they laid strips
of meat and beneath which they built fires. Several
of the Kavirondos stripped and sat humped over the
blaze while friends carefully greased them from top to
toe with elephant fat.

November lo. — Our job finished, we got up very
early and prepared to move. All the shenzis were
sleeping the sleep of the stuffed — all but the very aged
man. He was up bright and early, keen to capture
any stray tin cans. As soon as we were packed up, he
appropriated the best of our camp-sites and meat-
racks. He was certainly an enterprising old person,
paying attention to nothing or nobody that had not to
do with the business in hand. He would probably live
right there until his hoard of meat — which he would
dry — would be quite gone. Poor old chap! This was
undoubtedly his last raid.

We marched back out of the forest, and along the
spoor by which we had come in. Many more Wander-
obo were hastening in to the meat. I do not suppose
a single ounce of that great carcase would be wasted!
The morning was clear, and Mt. Kenia with its bold
crags and glittering snows was for once visible in its
entirety. It is a marvellous mountain, but we had not
long to enjoy it, for soon it began to gather, a wisp at
a time, the thick mantle with which it daily enshrouds
itself.

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 311

Enjoyed the walk through the forest very much; for
now, for the first time, we could look about us with free
minds, unhampered by the necessity of searching for
spoor, moving noiselessly, etc.

Near the outer edge we met a number of savages,
very gorgeous savages, sent by Kurioki. They were
leading two sheep, presents from his majesty. They
had only one petition, namely, that we should kill one of
them on the spot and return the entrails to the messen-
gers. With some of the internal organs they would
then make medicine to keep the elephants away from
the crops. To this, of course, we assented; and sat
down to await the completion of the ceremony. It
began to rain in sheets; but we were used to it by now,
and merely humped ourselves over to let the water run
off. Then came two shenzis carrying a canvas chair
and the message that Kurioki himself was coming to
see us. Long pause, while the rain rained. Enter
Kurioki — a tall savage beyond middle age, without
much ornament, wearing a red blanket, and very lame
in the right leg. He hobbled up, seated himself, smiled
amiably, and gave us the "double grip" of friendship.
Lacking chairs, we were seated on two porters' loads.
We thanked him for the sheep. He waved his hand
airily. We asked him how long he had been lame. He
thought a while, said five days; then corrected it to
three years. We expressed ourselves as pleased with
the way his men had worked. He again waved an airy

312 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

hand. We said that if he would send men with us to
Fort Hall we would there buy him a present in return:
and requested him to name it.

He thought a long while, then told us to send him
whatever we pleased. We urged him to choose. For
the first time he made a speech. Said he, in sub-
stance :

"I have been drinking much tembo in your honour.
I cannot see you plainly, because you go like this," and
he waved his hand slowly to and fro in front of his face.
"I cannot now think of anything that I want, so you
will have to send me whatever you please," and again
he smiled amiably.

We left him there, seated under the tree, the rain
streaming from his face.

The march back to camp from this point was a hard
one. Our men were heavily loaded, and the hills so
slippery that we could hardly stand. Indeed at one
place I slid forty feet as though on ice, without the
least ability to check myself. After a little over eight
hours, however, we arrived at the base camp, and
were able to dry off. At sundown we gave backshish
to our faithful shenzis. In the moonlight they danced
and sang for an hour, then filed past us and said good-
bye. A lot of Kikuyu savages were in, sent by Kurioki
to help us carry our goods out to railhead. We took
fifteen of them, men and women, and they served us
very well. One of them wanted Cuninghame to take

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 313

charge of two rupees for him, and gave Cuninghame
the two rupees and a potato. This potato, Cuning-
game explained, must be returned with the two rupees.
It was a sort of backhanded receipt, or reminder,
rather.

We marched out to railhead in four rather long days.
At the end of that we sent back a camp-chair, a good
blanket, and twenty rupees to Kurioki. We gave
Maragua, the efficient shenzi head man, the other camp-
chair and the opera hat. He then much resembled the
comic paper idea of the cannibal chief !

From November 15-19 I spent in the forests near
N'joro looking for bongo. I had eight men and
three Wanderobo hunters. Unfortunately five white
men hunting colobus pervaded the forest. No white
men had been in the district for three years. The
Wanderobo said that now the bongo would depart for
points unknown and would not be back for four months.
That they had departed proved to be the case, so I re-
turned. The shenzis gave me a hyrax robe because they
said they were sorry that we had had no chance. It is
a beautiful thing. On my way back to the station I
fired the last shot in Africa at a colobus in the top of a
tall tree, and got him very neatly through the neck.

THE END

APPENDICES

Appendices are meant for the seeker after special infor-
mation; not for the general reader. Therefore the author
makes no apology for the inclusion of the following rather

specialized material:

HOW TO GET IN

Preliminary: In the present development of the country
it is exceedingly inadvisable to make up parties of more
than two — or at most three — white men. The chief diffi-
culty is transport; and the transport becomes most un-
wieldy in the case of large parties. These two or three
white men must reduce their supplies and equipment to a
minimum. Every man saved means so much more time in
the country. It is unnecessary to get a "white hunter."
Such an individual knows no more of this particular
country than you do. As to managing natives and the
details of running a safari, it would be well for the inex-
perienced first to take a two or three weeks' hunt in British
East Africa under professional auspices in order to get the
hang of the thing.

Routes : From MarseiUies or Naples take ships of either
the German East African Line or the Union Castle Line
to Mombasa. Thence by Uganda Railroad to Kisumu on
Victoria Nyanza. Thence by steamer to either Musoma

314

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 315

or Mwanza. From either of these ports march inland by
either one of the following routes:

(a) To WaHoba's, one day; to Missambi's, two days,"
up the Mara River to its junction with the Bologonja,
three days; up the Bologonja to its head, four days. You
are now in the heart of the game country. From this point
you can suit yourself.

(b) To Ikoma, about sLx or seven days; to Serengetti,
five days. Spend as much time as you please thereabouts;
then to Olgoss; thence four days southeast to the Ssale.
Return on a circle either north or south.

On both routes (a) and (b) you get plenty of game near
WaHoba's. On route (a) it might pay you to take a side
trip south past Myeru's into the hills above the Ruwana
River — a week, say.

Ways and Means: The only feasible scheme by which a
man could stay long in the country would be this : In. the
first place, select a small permanent safari of about forty
men. These can, perhaps, best be recruited at Nairobi;
or possibly through Hansing & Company at Mwanza.
Forty men is a maximum because they will consume a load
of potio per day. Twenty of these should be sufficient for
the white men's loads; two or three gunbearers; two or
three personal camp boys. The rest of the men can carry
a day to day supply of potio and be ready in case of sickness
and to carry trophies. Each man is given five days' pro-
visions before leaving the lake. Thus in your own safari
you have provisions for nineteen days. These nineteen days
are increased by the fact that for four days (or more if you
stop en route to shoot) you will be in a settled country,

3i6 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

and so able to buy as you go along. At Mwanza or Musoma
engage savages to carry the rest of your potio supply. This
can be best done through the German ojflacial; and to enhst
his support you should have letters from somebody. These
savages you will send forward — in charge of two of your
own men — with instructions to carry the potio to a desig-
nated point; there to deposit it, and immediately to return.
Somewhere up the Bologonja on route (a), and somewhere
on the Serengetti on route (b). Then whenever you are in
permanent camp anywhere in the game country — as you
often will be — you can relay on extra supplies of potio from
this central depot. All this takes a bit of figuring, to be
sure; but it is not fatally complicated.

If you recruit at Nairobi, I should advise you to get your
men through Newland Tarlton & Company. Their small
recruiting fee is well worth while. If possible get them to
include one of the following men: M'ganga, Memba Sasa,
Kongoni, Maliyabwana, Sanguiki, Dolo, or Sulimani. They
have all been through this country, and are intelligent.

Customs: Are lo per cent, on entering a German port.
The duty on a great many articles is refunded when you
leave the country. You will have to bond your goods
through from Mombasa in order to avoid paying British
duty as well. You must enter and depart from German
territory via a customs house.

Licenses: Must be procured in advance through the
German consul at Mombasa. This must be arranged for
by correspondence, as there are many delays. Send to the
Foreign Office — or whatever they call it — at Berlin for
copies of the latest regulations.

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 317

Permits to bring native servants and porters into German
territory must be applied for in advance. Otherwise you
will not be able to take them out again.

Maps: Besides the one in this book, send for the Ikonia
section published in Berhn. Do not depend on it too im-
phcitly — especially for water.*

OUTFIT

Riding animals are impossible in this country owing to
the prevalence of the tsetse fly. Hammocks are equally im-
possible because of the necessity of reducing the number of
your men — a hammock, counting relays, takes sixteen men.
Therefore the whole journey must be done afoot. Since the
potio must at present be arranged for as outUned in Appen-
dix I, it follows that a large and unwieldy safari is practi-
cally impossible. As stated, forty men is the ideal number.
These can comfortably care for two white men who are
willing to get down to absolute (African) essentials. Each
must solve for himself the problem of what he shall take;
but in our own case, the loads worked out as follows:

Two tent loads, two bed loads (includes chairs), three
tin boxes, one cook box (contains both utensils and food),
one ammunition box, eight chop boxes (food, repair-
materials, alum, trade goods, etc.), one miscellaneous load,
four boys' loads; a total of twenty-two loads. The chop
boxes gradually diminished in number ; the others remained

*The war may change the status on one side or the other of the line, but
on reflection I have retained this as it was written. Conditions of subsis-
tence will not be changed; and new regulations are easy to find out about.

3i8 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

constant. The rest of the men were none too many to fill
in the gaps caused by sickness, to carry current supplies of
potio, to act as guard over caches, and to transport the few
trophies we could not do without.

We figured a long time on the tent loads, but could not,
for African purposes, reduce them below fifty pounds each.
This accounted for an A-tent, with fly, 7x9, made with
ground cloth sewed on, and built to pitch with cross poles
slipped inside a hem at either side. A certain weight of
material was necessary to withstand the sun and daily
handhng by natives.

The bed loads consisted of fight X cots, thin cork
mattresses, and two blankets. One cannot sleep on the
ground in Africa; and the cork mattress was fighter than
another pair of blankets to go underneath one. With the
bed went a skeleton frame that supported either a canvas
bath or a canvas wash basin. One cannot take cold baths
in the tropics without danger of a congestion; and the
daily hot bath is a necessity. The folding camp-chairs
were of the fightest make, but repaid their transportation
as they would have done nowhere else but in the tropics.

In the tin boxes, besides our personal effects, we carried
the medicine supply, the knife stones, extra parts for rifles,
five volumes each of the handy "Everyman's Library,"
writing materials, sewing kit, our Stonebridge folding candle
lanterns, and maps. My own personal outfit, outside what
I wore, was as follows :

Clothes: A soft camp hat, two bandanas, one pair khaki
trousers for camp, five pairs of woollen socks, one pair shoe-
pac boots, one pair of moccasins, one waterproof cape, two

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 319

suits of pajamas, two suits of underwear, one buckskin
shirt.

Personals: Extra glasses and lenses, extra pocket knife,
flask of brandy (the entire supply!), notebooks, pencils,
fountain pen, ink, toilet articles, 3A Graflex camera, Goetz
"Celar" lens, Cooke "Telar" lens, films, extra rubber heels,
steel tape, extra gun sights, pipes, and tobacco.

By way of miscellaneous might be listed:

River rope, travelling block for same, thirty pounds of
alum, sail needles and twine, one dozen trade blankets, ten
pounds of beads, six coils trade wire, one pound trade snuiif,
five pounds trade tobacco, three hundred rupees in silver,
three dozen trade knives, thermometer, three pedometers,
aneroid, prismatic compass, alarm watch, tool set, boot
caulks, bobbinet meat safe (necessary!), two evaporation
bags, six tins boot grease ("Dubbin"), laundry soap, four
pangas (native tools, swords), two axes, two hatchets, gun-
cleaning material.

The cook box contained three kettles, two fry pans,
a grid, a baker, a tea or coffee pot, a galvanized bucket
(necessary to heat water in for baths), a kettle, and what
food was "going."

For ammunition we had 400 rounds for the New Spring-
field, which we both shot; 100 for my .405 Winchester, and
50 for each of our heavy rifles.

This brings us to the food list, which was as follows:

150 lbs. flour 60 lbs. rice

4 lbs. baking powder lo lbs. tea

50 lbs. sugar 10 lbs. salt

2 vials crystallose 20 lbs. oatmeal

320 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

lo lbs. cofifee lo tins golden syrup

I tin pepper 20 lbs. lima beans

25 lbs. lard curry powder

4 large tins " dehydro " fruits 12 lbs. prunes

2 large tins "dehydro" vegetables

The most of our shooting was strictly for the purpose of
getting food, and ingratiating ourselves with the sultans.
However, we brought out a fair number of most excellent
trophies. For the man technically interested in measure-
ments, the following are quoted:

Length
of horns

Spread
of horns

Bohur reedbuck

12^

Impalla ....
Thompson's gazelle
Thompson's gazelle
Wildebeeste

i6f
15I

30^

Sing-sing . . .
Bushbuck

33h
15-1

Topi

16 to 18

Roan average rather small; lion are well maned; Roberts'
gazelle (where found) rather small; impalla very large; sing-
sing extra good; topi very large; wildebeeste large; eland
medium; Chanler's reedbuck good; bushbuck extra good;
Bohur reedbuck wonderful; Thompson's gazelle well above
the old British East Africa records.

By way of recapitulation, the new hunting country may
be considered to extend from the escarpment above Lake
Natron to within a day's march of Lake Victoria Nyanza;

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 321

and from the mountains dividing British East Africa from
German East Africa south to a point yet to be determined.
From the escarpment the country rises through a series of
low ranges and valleys to a height of land near Oliondo,
whence it gradually descends again to the shores of the
lake. Twenty miles after leaving Oliondo the plateau
breaks into hills, or rather low rugged mountains with many
practicable passes. Here are the heights of Olgoss, Lobo,
etc. These low mountains run north and south, sweeping
at the extremities to the westward to embrace in their
arms an immense rolling plain covered with thin thorn
forest. This plain is bounded, or rather marked, to the
west by the ranges of Ikorongo and Tschamhno: though a
wide opening sweeps unobstructed through to Speke Gulf.
These westerly mountains are rugged but traversable;
generally volcanic in origin. Near the lake the character
of the country changes to low hills of alluvial soil, whence
emerge extraordinary rock outcrops.

In the rains this country is all well watered. That the
rains are fairly heavy is proved by the size and erosion of
the watercourses. On the extreme east, and close under
the high mountains that divide the German from the
British Protectorates, there is abundance of flowing streams;
but as one progresses westward it is necessary, out of the
rains, to search for springs or water "tanks." The Dor-
odedi, flowing past the end of Oliondo; the Bologonja, to
the extreme north; and the great Mara were the only per-
manent and flowing streams in all this vast area. The
swarms of game undoubtedly migrate, following the water
and feed.

322 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

In other features of external topography: the rough rolling
country to east of OHondo is covered with spiky thorn
brush in which occasional lowland stretches and openings
permit small grass plots; between Ohondo and Olgoss is
mixed cover, open grass, however, predominating; between
Olgoss and Ikorongo is the rolling, alternate park and
thinly wooded country described as visited in August and
September; near the lake is a thin thorn tree alternating
with open or cultivated stretches. After leaving the high-
est boundary mountains there is Httle real forest or jungle.
An occasional patch near headwaters of some creek, around
some spring; or along the course of flowing water is about
aU.

The country is sparsely inhabited by the Wasonzi —
three villages to be exact — on the bench above Lake Na-
tron. Then follows a long stretch without population
until we reach the Ungruimi in the Ikorongo mountains.
From there to the lake is a numerous and prosperous peo-
ple of several tribes. South of the big plains dweU the
Wakoma — a scanty and miserable tribe, dwelling in a dry
and unproductive desert. North of the Mara sleeping sick-
ness is prevalent and very fatal.

ZOOLOGICAL

The following species of big game were actually deter-
mined by us. Undoubtedly several others could be added
to the list by one who could take time — as we could not—
to hunt more thoroughly, especially in out of the way
places and for very localized species. To the reader de-

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 2>^^

siring most complete descriptions, accounts of habits,
distribution, etc., I would recommend the " Life Histories
of African Animals," by Roosevelt and Heller. The notes
appended to the species in the following hst must be con-
sidered only as supplemental to the information to be
obtained from the above volume.

I. The Lion (Jelis leo). — The lion seems not to occur or
to be very unusual in the Wasonzi bench; although the
Wasonzi report him as very numerous on the plains or
high plateaus of Ssale just south. From Oliondo to Wal
ioba's country I should consider them about normally
abundant; in other words, they can be heard every night,
and occasionally one can be seen. The country is a diffi-
cult one in which to hunt them, owing to the continuity of
the cover; but from a permanent camp a man should be
fairly sure of his quarry. The male Uons I saw in this
country carried very fine manes. This seems to me a
little remarkable, both because of the heat and the thorny
nature of the bush. Theoretically, heavy manes should
occur in high, cold altitudes and open country. Thorns
have always been considered an important reason why the
mane of a wild lion is less thick and heavy than that of
menagerie specimens. Since the journal that makes the
body of this book has been put into type, I have received a
letter from Mr. Leshe Simpson, who went into the New
Country on my advice and information. He swung down
to the Serengetti, which he reports an open grass plain with
many ravines and small stony hills. An abundance of
game makes this an ideal habitat for lions; and in fact he
reports an abundance of them there. He also remarks on

324 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

the fine quality of the manes. Roosevelt and Heller in-
stance as a remarkable thing that once in the Lordo they
heard a lion roar after sunrise. In this New Country lions
very often roared up to ten o'clock in the morning. As a
general thing, of course, lions roar at night. But these
beasts refuse to be bound by rules. I once saw three of them
eating a decomposed waterbuck just at noon of a hot day!
It is curious that lions seem to vary little in numbers in
one part of the country or another. Of course I cannot
even guess at the probable lion population per square
mile. In an un visited country where no Uons are ever
touched, the average density seems to be no greater than
in comparatively civilized districts where a hundred or
so are killed per year. At first blush it would seem only
reasonable that in the former conditions they should fairly
overrun the whole place; but this is not so. Whether the
numbers are constantly recruited by immigration, or
whether, as at present seems to me more likely, the birth
rate varies according to conditions, it is of course impossible
to say.

2. Leopard {felis pardus). — Very generally distributed
in about the usual abundance. We heard them in every
part of the country.

3. Cheetah {achionyxjuhatus). — In the covered country
we saw none of these animals, though they may well occur.
Only west of Ikorongo did we begin to come across them
in or near the small open plains.

4. Spotted Hyena {cr acuta crocuta germinans). — Com-
mon everywhere. Heard practically every night.

5. Wild Dog {lycaon pictus lupinus). — Saw one near

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 325

Olgoss; and heard packs hunting east of that mountain.
Did not see signs of any to the westward.

[East African Bush Pig — potamochoerus koiropotamus
daemonis — probably occurs.]

6. Warthog {phacochoerus africanus aeliani) . — Not com-
mon; but everj-where to be found. Some unfavourable
conditions must prevent their increase.

7. Hippopotamus {hippotamus amphibius amphihius). —
We found the banks of the Mara River tramped with many
hard, smooth trails, showing that these animals are at some
times of the year very abundant in the upper reaches. At the
time of our visit, however, there were none. Cuninghame
saw two near Ikorongo; but the hippo population had evi-
dently descended the river either to the Masirori swamp or
to Victoria Nyanza. Abundant in the lake.

8. Masai Giraffe (giraffa camelopardalis tippelskircki). —
Fairly common everywhere; and in good-sized herds in
the thin scrub forest south of the Bologonja. Wary in the
uninhabited regions. Exceedingly tame in the Masai coun-
try, where the continued presence of native herders ac-
customs it to man.

9. Roan Antelope (egoceros equinus). — From Olgoss
westward to the west slopes of Ikorongo we found this
animal common. That is, common for roan. The sports-
man would have no difficulty in getting trophies. They
seem to prefer scant scrub cover. We saw none in the
open country. The horns run rather small.

[Sable — egoceros niger — reported by natives as occurring
directly to southward and about ten days' march. To be
investigated.]

326 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

10. Fringe-eared Oryx {oryx beisa callotis). — In the
Lake Natron region; none after climbing the escarpment to
the upper plateau.

11. Topi {damaliscus korrigum jimela). — Occurs spar-
ingly near Olgoss; in great abundance westward as far as
Walioba's; then is scarce to within sight of the lake. By
far the most numerous antelope in the New Country.
Frequents the thin cover extensively, where, even at close
range, its ordinarily advertising coloration makes it almost
invisible (see later discussion). In our experience the
tamest of all game, and possessed of the most curiosity.
These traits, added to its abundance, make it the mainstay
of the commissariat. The topi is the animal most readily
"held" by a fluttering bit of white cloth. We thought we
saw more twins of this species than of any other.

12. Wildebeeste or gnu {gorgon alhojubatus mearnsi). —
Very abundant everywhere. Vary greatly in colour. I
have a skin that is nearly jet black, and one that is clear
brown, both from the same locality. The horns of three spec-
imens now at hand do not curve downward below level of
orbit. In spread they run rather large. In this country,
contrary to Roosevelt's experience farther north, they
frequented thin scrub freely, and often ventured into what
might be called fairly thick cover. In fact, except at
evening grazing hours, they seemed more to shun the grass
openings. They are exceedingly swift, yet, as elsewhere
detailed, natives run them down.

13. Coke's Hartebeeste {bubalis cokei). — Both Cun-
inghame and myself are a little doubtful as to which of
the subspecies — nakurti or kongoni — this animal should be

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 327

referred. If to kongoni, then possibly the other, smaller
variety, will be nakuru, although its description and hab-
itat do not square with the books. If nakuru, then the
smaller variety must be undescribed. While in the country
itself we always considered the larger, red tame species as
the kongoni, and the smaller as Neumann; but according
to later classifications this seems impossible. For con-
venience I shall refer to this animal as Coke's.

It is common from 01 Sambu (above Lake Natron) to
the Mara River, but not nearly as abundant as the topi,
thus reversing the condition on the Loieta Plains. Gre-
garious, curious, tame — the typical "kongoni" of British
East Africa in habit, except that here it frequents brush
and shade freely, and may often be found in what might
almost be described as thickets. In that respect our ob-
servations and those of the Frenchman, Vaase, stand to-
gether, and practically alone.

Roosevelt's remarkably complete and interesting account
of the habits of these hartebeeste fails to mention their
apparent altruism in warning other animals of danger. Of
course the exact mental attitude remains to be proved,
but the fact is that on several occasions I have seen harte-
beeste that were not in danger themselves come deHberately
into danger in order to carry off herds of zebra, wilde-
beeste or other hartebeeste that were in the line of a stalk.
Both Cuninghame and myself observed this several times.
Generally it seemed to be one or two individuals that thus
took the job, and not a group.

14. Hartebeeste {biibalis cokei {?]). — Beside the

large red kongoni with the points of the horns slightly

328 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

diverging or parallel is a smaller species. This differs in
being two thirds the size of his larger relative; in being of
lighter buff colour; in lighter colour underneath, so that at a
distance it has the appearance of being on stilts; in appar-
ently a proportionately longer frontal bone from eyes to base
of horns; in the fact that the points of the horns turn sharply
toward each other; and especially in habit. They go in
small groups of from three to not more than a dozen in-
dividuals; are always extraordinarily shy; and do not seem
to care to mingle with other game. On two or three occa-
sions we saw them with the larger hartebeeste, when they
were readily distinguished at a distance. We shot one or
two we thought were hybrids. The species is nowhere
numerous, but always present in its habitat. It extends
farther west than does the larger form. We found it on
the hills above Speke Gulf.

15. East African Buffalo (syncerus coffer radcliffei). —
Found everjrwhere between Olgoss and the lake, but no-
where in numbers. Widely migratory. We found indi-
cations of many more than we came into touch with — old
tracks and signs. They probably follow the grass about.
No large herds. Perhaps have not yet as fully recovered
from the rinderpest as have the British Protectorate
buffalo.

16. Bushbuck {tragelaphus scriptus delamerei). — Com-
mon in suitable localities. Though it is true, as Roosevelt
and Heller say, that "bushbucks are soUtary creatures; a
buck and doe, or a doe and fawn, may be together, but
generally we found them singly," nevertheless I have seen
bucks together, feeding in the open, at the edge of thickets.

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 329

17. Sitatunga {limnotragus spekei). — In the Masirori
swamp.

18. Lesser Kudu (ammelaphus imberhis australis). —
In the region near Lake Natron.

19. Greater Kudu {strepsiceros strepsiceros bea). — (a)
Below the escarpment northwest of Lake Natron about
15 to 20 miles; (b) in the hills between the Narossara and
the boundary; (c) near the Bologonja River.

20. Bongo {boocercus euryceriis isaaci). — In the forests
south of the Narossara near Seudeu's boma.

21. Eland {taiirotragus oryx p alter sonianiis). — Common
as far west as the Mara River and Ikorongo. Saw none
west of that point; but may occur. No reason why not.

2 2 . Chanler 's Reedbuck {oreodorcasfulvorufula chanlerii) .
— Very conmion on suitable hiUs as far west as the Mara.
I have seen groups of four to a dozen buck, apparently
in company, at least they gave the appearance of a loose
sort of herd. However, they may have been gathered
merely because of some condition of feed.

23. Ward's Reedbuck {redunca redunca wardi). — Com-
mon from Oliondo west.

24. Sing-sing (kobus defassa raineyi [.?]). — According
to the books this animal should be referred to the above
subspecies, nevertheless the animals we shot differ from
the description in some particulars, notably in average
horn lengths. "The horns of large bucks are seldom
more than 25 inches in length." I should say that the
average of adults I saw and shot would run somewhere
about 28 inches. Common from Olgoss westward. The
common waterbuck has been reported "as far west as

330 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

Ikoma." We saw none. These beasts decoy readily by
fluttering white flags.

25. Uganda Cob (adenota kob thomasi) .—This animal
is reported in a small German handbook from the east
shores of the lake and the country adjoining. Perhaps on
this authority (?) Roosevelt and Heller include that country
in their distribution map. We looked into this matter
thoroughly, and are fairly certain cob are not to be found
there. The native name for both cob and impalla is
sumu, which may have caused the confusion. A small
herd is to be found in Kavirondo near Klibigori. Here,
probably due to the presence of vast numbers of natives,
the cob has abandoned his usual habits and seeks thick
cover.

26. Duiker {sylvicapra grimmia). — Not common; but
widely distributed. Whether subspecie hindei or nyansae
I do not know.

27. Oribi (ourebia montana coUoni). — Common every-
where. Roosevelt's and Heller's distribution map —
p. 563 — should be extended eastward to the heights above
Lake Natron.

28. Steinbuck (raphicerus campestris neumani). — Com-
mon in suitable cover everywhere. In seeking to hide they
often fold their ea.rs forward or back, creasing them in the
middle, like a spaniel.

29. Klipspringer (oreotragus oreotragus schillingsi) . —
Common in suitable locaUties. On the rolling plains,
where there are no hills within a good many miles, I found
these animals in deeply eroded creek beds filled with bould-
ers. The boulders apparently gave them the illusion of

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 331

rocky side hills; and the little animals leaped from one rock
to the other entirely satisfied.

30. Roberts' gazelle (gazella gtanti rohertsi). — Quite
common between Oliondo and Olgoss. Cuninghame re-
ports it around Ikoma. None at all in the immense game
herds south of the Bologonja.

31. Thomson gazelle {gazella thomsoni). — Nowhere
abundant, and apparently very local. Many sections well
adapted to "Tommies" are quite devoid of them. Never-
theless saw specimens as far west as Walioba's and as far
east as the plateau above N'digadigu. It would be in-
teresting to know why there are not more gazelles in this
country. Carry very large heads. I am doubtful of the
new subspecies nasalis. I have two heads from the region
of its habitat, neither of which possess the alleged dis-
tinguishing black patch across the nose.

32. Impalla {aepyceros melampus suara). — Common.
Carry very large heads.

33. Dik-dik {rhynchotragus kirki cavendishi). — We found
this animal very local in its distribution.

34. Rhinoceros {disceros bicornis hicornis). — Common
in the mountains between the two protectorates, where
their trails helped us greatly; but unusually scarce in the
new country. They have been much hunted there by
Wandcrobo, who take their horns.

35. Zebra {equus quagga granti). — Common everywhere;
but not so common as the topi or wildebeeste. Seem in this
country rather to prefer cover to the open plains. They
are there practically invisible (see discussion elsewhere).

36. Elephant iloxodonla africana capensis). — In the

332 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

Masirori Swamp, where they stick until driven out by floods.
We saw much sign of them around the edges. Inaccessi-
ble except at flood times.

To the above "game" animals may be added the follow-
ing large species:

37. Crocodile. — Mara River and Victoria Nyanza.

38. Ostrich.

39. Jackal.

40. Serval.

I shot again the new Springfield rifle, using the spitzer
pointed bullet of 165 gr. and 172 gr. weight. Some of these
had been exposed to tropical conditions for three years, but
I could see no deterioration. Their performance was uni-
form and very deadly. The same could not be said of the
150 gr. service bullet, forty rounds of which I used as a trial.
Their action was too erratic, as a certain proportion of them
showed a tendency to dive outrageously. In my opinion
the 172 gr. U. M. C. bullet is an ideal hunting cartridge; as
was also the Winchester 165 gr. The latter, unfortunately,
is no longer manufactured. An analysis of the work done
by this weapon results as follows :

Shots fired . , . . 260 Animals shot at . . 161

Hits 199 Animals missed . . 26

Misses 61 Animals killed . . . 135

Of the above 135 animals killed with this rifle, 98 went
down to one shot each. The longest range was 421 yards;
the average for antelope, 196 yards. These measurements
were all paced.

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 333

For a second gun I used, as before, the .405 Winchester.
It is light, handy, and delivers a very hard blow at close
ranges. Beyond 150 yards, however, it loses velocity too
fast to make it of the first use. It is a good brush gun, and
has always done me well with lions. Its record was:

Shots fired .... 33 Animals shot at . . 14

Hits 29 Animals killed ... 14

Misses 4

In the case of the four lions I was forced to take on at
once, I used alternately the Springfield and the Winchester.
One of these was a bolt action, the other a lever action arm.
According to those who argue most vigorously on either
side of the rather bitter controversy, this alternating of
weapons should have confused me, or at least caused me to
take thought. As a matter of fact, it did nothing of the
kind. I used either with equal facility and with equal un-
consciousness. My firm beHef is that neither action has
the slightest advantage over the other in practical work.

My third, reserve, weapon was the Holland and Holland
.465 cordite. This was useful only on the very heaviest
game. Except for buffalo, rhinoceros, and perhaps elephants,
I could very well get on without it.

These paragraphs are intended in a suggestive rather
than a controversial spirit. The author advances nothing
theoretical that he considers final. The facts, however,
are matters of careful observation.

We are all familiar with the rather bitter discussions into
which have plunged the proponents and opponents of the

334 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

concealing coloration theory. The Thayers elaborated
this theory to its last conclusions in a thick volume and nu-
merous pamphlets. Certain naturalists, Colonel Roosevelt
the most conspicuous among them, criticised the theory and
its application. The ensuing discussion reached its greatest
height between my two African trips. Therefore I went on
this last journey with all data freshly in mind. Both
Cuninghame and myself were throughout the whole time in
the field keenly alert to prove or disprove — in our own
minds — the contentions of both parties. It might further
be pointed out that at the start we were neither of us
partisan for either side of the discussion; that we are both,
in a sense, trained observers; and that we had here unrivalled
opportunities for studying tens of thousands of animals in
undisturbed country. In order to define my position
clearly at the outset, I will state that in general I hold
with Colonel Roosevelt, and unqualifiedly advise the reader
to peruse his chapter on this subject in " Life Histories of
African Animals." What follows is intended merely to
call attention to certain phases. I believe most of these
to be of optical rather than evolutionary value.

The only points which seem to me important in Mr.
Thayer 's contention are these :

1 . The theory of counter-shading. That is to say, most
animals are coloured lighter underneath than on top in order
to compensate for the shadow cast by the animal's body.
The net result is supposed to be a monochrome.

2. The theory of night blending. A great many beasts
are conspicuously white somewhere on the upper body line.
The tails of white-tailed deer or prong-horned antelope are

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 335

familiar examples. Mr. Thayer contends that this white
tends to blend with the night sky in such a way as to render
the animal invisible to an observer placed close to the
ground. This brings us to:

3. Mr. Thayer tries to show that in testing out these
theories we should take the point of view of the animal's
"natural enemies, " i. e.: we should crouch down to the eye-
level of the lion or other carnivore.

4. The theory of broken coloration. Mr. Thayer main-
tains that stripes, blotches, and patterns are intended to
break the mass, and that against normal backgrounds such
patterns are more invisible than a uniform mass.

5. The theory of imitative patterns. That is, that
stripes of a zebra simulate reeds; patterns on the ends of
ducks' breast feathers imitate wave ripples, the blue jay's
colour is like shadows on snow, etc., etc.

There are various corollaries to these five major theories,
but I feel no injustice is done the argument by their omission,
because they must necessarily stand or fall with the major
premises.

In order to clear the decks for all parties and both sides
of the discussion, it cannot be too strongly insisted that
no possible pattern or scheme of coloration is either con-
cealing or reveahng at all times and in all circumstances.
Combinations of light will conceal the most vivid and con-
spicuous object in the world. Or, conversely, an exemplary
— artificial or otherwise — of all the principles of protective
coloration can be so placed — and in normal environment —
so that it will show as plainly as a flag in the wind. I once
tied a brilliant red bandana handkerchief to a bush for the

336 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

purpose of guiding myself and packhorse back to a sheep I
had killed. It took me a quarter of an hour to find that
handkerchief, simply because a queer combination of hght
and shade had temporarily made it absolutely invisible.
And certainly if a red bandana handkerchief is concealingly
coloured, then all objects in nature are so coloured. There-
fore I have scant patience with the type of argument in
rebuttal — on either side — that says in effect: "You say the
whiff enpoof is — or is not — protectively coloured. Now the
other day I was out, and I saw — or did not see — a whiffen-
poof, etc." That sort of argument is barred. It means
nothing. We are dealing with tendencies, not hard and fast
invariabilities. If protective coloration always worked,
the beasts would be always invisible. If we always saw
every creature, we would come precious close to om-
niscience.

Let us now take up in detail the five items of theory, and
see how much or how little they are borne out by our own
observations.

I. Countershading. Considered as a tendency, as a
fact, among others, that tends to render an animal less con-
spicuous than if he were a monochrome, I believe this idea
has merit. A countershaded object is in most circum-
stances less conspicuous than an object in monochrome.
A countershaded animal, afoot and in normal circum-
stances, is less easily picked out by the eye than an animal
not so countershaded. In other words, countershading
tends not so much to conceal an animal when he is aware of
danger and attempting to hide* as to cause him to be over-
*A hiding animal generally squats, thus concealing his light under parts.

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 337

looked in favour of a more conspicuous creature. Every
hunter knows how instinctively he picks out for his shot the
most prominent member of a flock or herd. The lion, or
native hunter, seeking his victim in a prospect full of game
takes the line of least resistance. His eye falls on the beast
that is most conspicuous, and, other circumstances being
equal, he proceeds with his stalk. The animals, or the
species, that have not happened to catch the eye first —
even if skilled scouting might discover them — escape for the
time being. That they are overlooked may be due to a
variety of circumstances — their position, the cover they are
in, the direction of the light, their colouring, etc. Also
their luck! But undoubtedly countershading often helps,
and helps materially, in causing individual animals or
species to be overlooked in this first survey of a well-stocked
field.

Logically, given sufl&cient opportunity for observation,
one should find, of two species, one countershaded and the
other not, that the former should escape oftener than the
latter. This is sometimes, but not always, the case. In
some parts of our hunting field where topi* and hartebeestef
existed in fairly equal numbers we found many more lion
kills of the former than of the latter. Yet I think nobody
with field experience could for a moment maintain that
the hartebeeste is a first-rate example of concealing color-
ation, or that he is hard to see. But I noted this, and I
noted it many times over: in a herd of mixed game, feeding
in the characteristic thin cover such game frequents when

*Not countershaded.
t Countershaded.

338 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

not disturbed, my eye caught first the topi, second the harte-
beeste, and lastly the zebra. The reason for the com-
parative invisibiHty of the latter belongs under a different
head.

In a letter to me Colonel Roosevelt takes the position
that if such a tendency exists, ''even to the extent that
would represent the killing of say a hundred topi by lions'
for every ninety-nine hartebeeste. . . . If it exists in
the locahty you mention, the fact will be proved by the
speedy extermination of the topi in that locality." And he
calls to my attention the indisputable fact that both beasts
are well known, possess equal fecundity, equal wariness, etc.
I am not quite willing to admit this. The fecundity and
infant mortality of different animals in different localities
have not yet been studied. That breeding is affected by
conditions is indisputable. Before a drought season Cali-
fornia quail will raise one brood — or none; in seasons of
plenty they may raise three broods. If this is true, it may
well be that in a locality better adapted to topi than to
kongoni the former may breed more freely than the latter;
so freely as to more than compensate for lion killing. It
seemed to me that, in this new country, I saw many more
young topi than young kongoni, and more twins of the
former than of the latter; but this is only an impression.
Certainly if some such explanation is not adopted, it would
be very difficult to account for the fact that in different
localities species practically aHke in habits differ so widely
in their relative numbers. On the plains north of the Nar-
ossara River the kongoni outnumber the topi by about ten
to one; on the plains south of the Mara River the exact

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 339

reverse is the case. On both plains there are, however,
plenty of both species. I should say the lion population
is about equally divided. The disparity of numbers, in my
mind, is not due to lion killing, but to some as yet unex-
plained breeding dissimilarity due to some as yet un-
described advantage or disadvantage to one or the other
species.

Of course it may be superficially argued that if this is
true, it should also follow that beasts not countershaded
should be fewer in numbers than the others, because more
of them are killed. But this might, and probably does,
depend on other factors — how prolific are their breeding
habits, tendency to infant mortality from other causes, etc.,
etc.

In short, countershading seems to me to be a principle
that on broad general lines works out. It does not always
work out, and its possession would not for a moment conceal
any individual from me — let alone a native or a lion — if I
were looking for him. But it might cause me to pass him
by for a more conspicuous animal if I were just after meat
in general. That would be a chance; and of a great ag-
gregation of chances is made the fate or the evolution of
species, provided, of course, that the theory of evolution or
survival is accepted.

2. The theory of night blending: This, as an expla-
nation of white tails, and generally white upper parts, seems
to me a mistake. Mr. Thayer's optical contention is un-
doubtedly true, as it affects human eyes. A white object,
at a reasonable distance, is in many circumstances — but by
no means always — less visible at night than a dark object.

340 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

But only rarely is this true at a very short distance. Further-
more, the application of this optical principle to game would
imply that an animal's enemies always approach and spring
exactly from the rear. This is not true. As far as I can
determine, the lion generally springs from a point a little to
one side, in order to land on the withers of his victim. If
the white tail or rump tends to conceal at the flurried
moment of escape, what of the rest of the creature's outline,
which is dark? I place little importance on the expla-
nation that the flash of white as the beast leaps tends to
confuse the would-be captor. It would have to be a very
stupid or inexperienced preying animal indeed. When I
was young, the flash of white in the white-tailed deers'
rumps as they ran made for me almost irresistible marks to
shoot at. I could hardly help taking them for my target, and
in consequence shooting behind. But I got over it very
soon. If I had not done so, I would not give much for my
chances as a hunter. And if a lion, or leopard, or weasel, or
any other rapacious animal or bird is seriously or often or re-
peatedly confused by so simple and constant a mechanical
device as a show of white at the moment of escape, then
there is something the matter with him, and he deserves
to die of starvation, as he probably will.

Another possible element of doubt in this theory is that
we are not taking into account the fact that the eyes of a
nocturnal animal differ from the human eye in their ca-
pacity for light. Such a beast "sees at night." It is
possible that to him the general appearance of things is
much as it is to us at, say, early twilight. So the cases are
not quite on all fours. A quite sufficient explanation of

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 341

such markings might well be that they are warnings of
danger to others. Indeed they are most prominently dis-
played only when the beast is in rapid motion.

Concerning the top markings of the skunk: as far as my
experience goes the skunk is in no way desirous, either by
day or night, of escaping observation. He and the solemn
porcupine have other reliable means of defence.

3. The theory that in order adequately to test out these
hypotheses we should adopt the viewpoint of the preying
animal is an interesting one. Before we came to a conclu-
sion satisfactory to ourselves we gave more attention to tliis
than to all the other branches put together. Before I left
on this last trip Mr.Thayer very kindly sent me a copy of a
pamphlet wherein, by text and diagram, this was all very
carefully worked out. He showed that in the majority of
cases a man on all-fours or prone would see the animal
against the skyline, while a man erect would see it against
a soUd background. He maintained that the former was
the viewpoint of the beast's "natural enemies," and that
from that viewpoint the "concealing coloration" had fuller
effect.

Now, in the first place, I do not quite see the justice of ex-
cluding mankind from the catalogue of a beast's "natural
enemies." Man has probably lived always contempo-
raneously with the present species of game; he has always
caught them for food; his success has probably been as
great as that of his rivals the lions, leopards, etc., that are
generally considered as the only accepted "natural enemies."
That his hunting has modified the habits of some no man
can doubt; that his continued and persistent pursuit from

342 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

the dawn of his race until the present time is as capable of
modifying structure and colour * as the continued and per-
sistent pursuit by lions and other carnivores, is at least a
debatable possibility. Personally, I do not see, if a beast
is to be concealed at all, why it is or has been of more im-
portance to him to be concealed from the erect or the prone
destroyer.

But let that pass. Let us consider the case entirely, as
Mr. Thayer asks us, from the lion's point of view. Also,
for the sake of the argument, let us for the moment pass over
the point as to whether or not an animal against the skyline
is any better concealed than an animal against a solid back-
ground. From the lion 's point of view is an animal in the
majority of cases seen against the sky? On the open plains,
yes. In cover or in a country the least bit broken, de-
cidedly not. This is a matter of repeated experiments in the
field, on living game, and is a definite conclusion.

This is of course at a distance of from thirty yards out
to any limit; but if I understand Mr. Thayer's diagram
aright, he claims the action of this principle for all distances.
Of extremely close range, say within the three or four yards
of a lion's spring, I am unable to advance evidence from
the field. It is not my purpose to offer my private opinions
unless apparently supported by actual observation.

As to the point we waived a moment ago, i. e., whether or
not an animal is on the average more or less visible against
the sky than against the earthy my opinion is against Mr.
Thayer. I came to this opinion only after repeated obser-

* That the habits and environment of a large beast do modify his struc-
ture or colour is denied by men of very good judgment.

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 343

vation, for the theory is fascinating and intrigued my in-
terest. I have tried it out on all colours, all sizes of beasts,
in all lights from early twilight to night so dark the human
eye could not even make out the silhouette, and from every
point of view. It must be repeated, that to the cat we
must allow a greater illumination than to the man. The
conclusion could not possibly be dodged. No matter what
the colour or pattern of the animal, it shows up nine times in
ten more plainly against the sky than against the earth. In
this case I cannot even see the tendency toward helping the
animal escape observation.

Parenthetically, this seems a good place to protest against
the finality of the kind of argument that consists of plac-
ing stuffed animals, painted objects, or drawings before an
observer and asking him to note the effect one way or
another. Early in my own investigations I abandoned that
method of observation. It is useless to place an oryx head
in a treetop, as did Mr. Thayer, or a white towel in a
dark night, as he challenged Mr. Roosevelt to do, and call
upon the bystander to observe the invisibility of one or the
visibility of the other. And for this reason: I will guaran-
tee to place the same oryx head in the same treetop, without
trickery, so it will stand out like a crow on a snowbank;
and the same night and in the same field I will shift the
towel to the vanishing point. The oryx head and what-
ever that towel represented would in nature be quite as
likely to be in one place as another. The only test is the
actual field test. I have seen some thousands of oryx and
I do not suppose that of that number two dozen were in the
slightest degree concealed from me by the face markings

344 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

Mr. Thayer, paradoxically, was wrong though he was right.
His own oryx was concealed; but that was not a legitimate
argument simply because wild oryxes do not happen to do
what stuffed oryxes did. Photographs are equally ex parte.
They have rehef, no colour, and the relative tones are
often false. They are not evidence; for they do not re-
produce.

And here seems a good place for the insertion of another
parenthesis of protest against another mistaken line of
argument. This merely to clear the decks.

The proponents of "concealing coloration" may bring
against me an argument they have already used against
others. They may say: "Yes, you may have seen some
thousands of oryx; but what of those you did not see? They
remained concealed, and therefore illustrate our point!"
But by a very simple method I tested this. As I moved
forward, I was constantly on the lookout to determine how
many beasts in the direct line of march escaped my visual
attention. If an animal I had not previously seen jumped
and ran from in front of us, I naturally concluded it
had remained concealed. Then I tried to determine why
it had remained concealed. And let no one imagine that
African animals to any great extent "squat" while a safari
of forty noisy natives howls by! We saw eventually every-
thing in our path. I mention this merely to show that our
methods foresaw such obvious objections.

4. The theory of broken coloration. Mr. Thayer ad-
vances the theory that a broken coloration is often more
concealing than a uniform coloration. The theory is not
original with himself, but the extent of its development is.

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 345

There is so much of value in it that it is a pity his natural
enthusiasm for so pretty a h>^othesis should have carried
him beyond all reason. Thus he seriously maintains that
the wavy marks on the ends of a duck's breast and side
feathers are imitations of ripple marks on the water wherein
the duck swims; and that for that reason they tend to con-
ceal the duck from its "natural enemies." A moment's
reflection, without the necessity of actual experiment, shows
that such fine markings are invisible at a very short dis-
tance, and that within the distance of their visibility the
duck is very plainly in sight to anything with any eyes at
all.* He instances the scarlet tanager, and can, of course,
easily prove that it is often invisible in thick woods. He
attempts to tell us this is because of the black and red
markings of that brilliant bird, forgetting that when the
scarlet tanager is invisible any other bird whatsoever would
be equally invisible. Or that the thin white transverse
stripes of the eland tend to break up that animal's bulk,
whereas, of course, as every one who has ever seen an eland
knows, the stripes are quite invisible beyond forty yards.
And any one who has been within forty yards of an eland
and not seen it is either in completely concealing cover or
should depart for the nearest oculist. Mr. Thayer's
interest in working out possible apphcationsf of this fasci-
nating idea has led him into a mental point of view very
like that of an enthusiastic lawyer toward a technical case.
I'^ach quite honestly rather loses sight of the verities.

*A duck in the water is a mass, always! Yes; I have looked at them
from above!

t For a great number of instances, sec his book. Most of them beg the
question and imply such close proximity to the animal before the markings
can be seen at all that the mass of the beast could not possibly be overlooked.

346 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

So numerous are the instances where Mr. Thayer has
over-refined his argument after the manner of the examples
given above, that he has ended by goading his opponents to
the opposite extreme. They are, it seems to me, not nearly
enough incHned to admit whatever of value there is in the
theory.

Every hunter in a fairly open country knows that a
varied costume is better than a uniform costume. Thus
the sheep hunter who wears a gray cap, a khaki-coloured
shirt, and breeches of "pepper and salt'' stands a better
chance of remaining unnoticed than he who dresses entirely
in even the celebrated *'olive drab." A wildebeeste, in or
out of cover, is more visible than a zebra. The mottled
horned toad is less easily seen than the lizard. All this
quite irrespective of movement. Nobody will seriously
deny this. Furthermore, as a general thing, in thin cover
the patterned animal will remain unnoticed longer than the
animal in monochrome. But in thick cover, except under
exceptional circumstances, a good neutral monochrome or a
broken pattern seem to be on equal footing. On the open
plain no animal is concealed, unless there be high grass;
when, naturally, the environment must be considered as
cover.

Let us elaborate. In the new hunting field we have been
describing, the game had not been disturbed by man, either
savage or civihzed. This was a most unusual condition ; for
even where the white hunter has not penetrated usually the
black hunter has been active for untold generations. There-
fore here the game may fairly be considered to frequent
the type of country it likes best, its ideas unmodified by

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 34>

humankind. In this country at the time of our visit we
found the zebra inhabiting the thin bush. There were plenty
of open plains, and occasionally bands of zebra wandered out
on them, as do impalla; but by choice, and as a matter of
course, they held to the thin thorn scrub, and the Ught
growths of small thorn trees. Elsewhere the zebra is a
plains-dwelling animal ; and all arguments as to his gaudily
striped person have been based on that fact. But else-
where he has always been in contact with humankind. It
is at least a fair assumption, in view of our observations,
that he may have been driven out to the plains,* although
I am not yet convinced that such is the case. At any
rate, in the thin cover described he is the most invisible of
animals. The stripes of white and black so confuse him
with the cover that he is absolutely unseen at the most
absurd ranges. Time after time not only did Cuninghame
and myself fail to make them out even as close as forty and
fifty yards, but Kongoni confessed himself baffled. And of
the many keen-eyed savages with whom I have had to do,
Kongoni can see farthest and best. A switch of the tail, or
the actual movement of the head was time and again our
first warning. This same cover was open enough so that
we could see topi or wildebeeste up to 2co yards.

The other usual larger inhabitants of this tliin cover
were topi, wildebeeste, eland, hartebeeste, and impalla. The
smaller antelope I do not count, as they generally lurked
in grass or bush. Of these the wildebeestef is to all intents

* The native most often hunts by driving his game.

tThe wildebeeste is countershadcd. But mere countershading without
the help of a neutral colour is ineffective. Countershading does, how-
ever, help the neutral colour.

348 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

and purposes a black bulk, and he is easily the most con-
spicuous of the lot. I don't think I ever failed to see a
wildebeeste not entirely concealed by cover, unless I hap-
pened tobe careless. But wildebeeste belong on plains, prefer
plains, and are only lured into the bush occasionally by feed
or a wandering spirit. Eland were to me the next most
conspicuous, less from their coloration than from their size.
They have occasionally proved rather hard to see, when
they stood motionless in shadow; just as is any neutral-
coloured animal in the same circumstances, but their trans-
verse stripes never had anything to do with it. Topi, on
the whole, are the next easiest to make out, but in certain
Hghts they are as in\dsible as zebra. We have all of us
missed seeing them time and again, at close range, toward
evening. An analysis of the situation disclosed these facts
concerning a normally conspicuous beast: the topi is a dark
animal, without countershading, with nearly black legs to
the knee, with buff "stockings," and dark pearl gray patches
on the rump and shoulders. The variations in tone, with
the exception of the buff stockings and buff face markings,
are very slight. Yet they were sufficient, at the proper
time of day, to break the monochrome and blend the animal
into the darker lights and shadows of its background. The
topi, in this new country, hved on both the plains and in
cover, with a preference for the latter. In British East
Africa he is more distinctly a plains beast, where — like the
zebra — he is visible as far as the eye can see. Hartebeeste
and impaUa are countershaded beasts, and hardly come
into this discussion. In many circumstances their counter-
shading helps them to be overlooked in favour of more con-

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 349

spicuous beasts, but it never conceals them in circumstances
where any animal would not be concealed. The zebra and
topi, however, are very often actually "concealed" when
in reality standing in "plain sight."

I offer these as new and interesting facts, well estabhshed
by repeated observation. \\Tiether the zebra's stripes are
developed by the necessity of concealment in thin brush or
not I leave to deeper philosophers than myself.

In thick cover, however, any motionless animal is pretty
well concealed, whatever his scheme of colour, I have been
within a few yards of elephants, rhinoceros, and buffalo — all
large monochromatic beasts without a hint of countershading
— and had difficulty in making them out. I honestly do not
think they would have been more invisible had they been
spotted or striped. On the other hand, I have without
difficulty made out leopards, giraffes, and spotted hyenas
in the thickest sun-and-shade surroundings. It is my de-
liberate conclusion, that, in thick cover, the variety of light
and shade, of mass and detail, is normally so great that it
has room for any mass or any combination of dark and
light. In other words, almost any beast not advertisingly
blazened is none too easy to make out visually.

On open plains concealing coloration drops almost to
zero in its importance relative to other reasons for color-
ation. In certain slants of light and mirage from noon
heat a zebra or a herd of zebra, some of the gazelles, harte-
beestes, or topi will shimmer at extreme distances into white
alkali-looking streaks or queer, dancing patches; while
wildebeeste will hold their solid character. This difference
of effect is undoubtedly due to difference of coloration.

3SO THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

But never would any experienced man — or beast — mistake
the white shimmer for anything but zebra, or the queer
patches of colour for anything but game. And when he
had approached to within a half mile or so he could plainly
see the individual animals.

We have already discussed night appearances — which
may be day appearances to the Hon. And the lion hunts
by scent as well as by sight.

As a fact, by the way, which may be apphed as the
reader will: Mr. Thayer says the longitudinal body stripes
on such beasts as the Thompson's, Grant's and Roberts'
gazelle bring these animals under the working of this theory,
break up the monochrome, and tend to make them more
visible. This is not so. The Roberts' gazelle just east of
Olgoss are of mixed characteristics. In some the body
stripe has so faded as to be almost indistinguishable. In
every Hght the latter type were less visible than the former.

This leaves the situation rather anomalous. If a beast is
of a broken pattern he is less visible in certain circumstances
than a monochromatic beast; if an animal is coloured in
countershaded monochrome he is, in certain other circum-
stances, less visible than a striped or spotted or variegated
beast.

The apparent contradiction can be lessened, however, by
the reflection again, that no beast, of whatever colour, is al-
ways invisible; that "concealing coloration" seems, in the
case of larger game animals, not so much to conceal aU mem-
bers of a species absolutely, as to tend to render the individ-
uals likely to be overlooked in favour of the more conspicuous.
It is possible that both the variegated and the monochro-

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 351

ma tic are ''concealingly" coloured, in that sense of the term
— nature may use a double instead of a single barrel —
widely diverse optical laws may have the same affect — and
their differences in marking may have quite a different pur-
pose. Concealing coloration — again, I must repeat, in the
case of larger game animals — may prove to be a sort of by-
product of other purposes, a supplemental use thrown in by
an economical nature for good measure, an added principle
on the side of safety that may work at times and may fail
to work at others. Just as nature creates a thousand indi-
viduals in order that one may sur\dve, so she may invent a
dozen expedients of safety in order that one may work.
The occasions wherein coloration fails to work — which may
be the majority of cases — does not necessarily stultify the
scheme of decoration — as they would were concealment the
sole or principal reason for it. And when it does work, why
there is so much gained.

5. The theory of imitative coloration. This means
simply that the animal is so coloured as to imitate its
background. My remarks as to the preceding hypothesis
apply almost verbatim to this. Excellent examples are a
nighthawk on the ground, treefrogs against bark, wood-
cock on the nest, etc. So pretty is this theory that it, too,
lends itself to over-refinement. If a man seriously starts
to drawing analogies in the mental world, he speedily and
logically arrives at the absurdly fanciful; if a man sets out to
trace resemblances in the physical world, he arrives with
equal speed at the fantastic. Thus because a flock of
flamingoes a- wing at a distance of several miles looks to the
poetic eye like a pink cloud of morning — as it does —

352 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

your enthusiast thinks himself able to prove that this re-
semblance is intended to conceal those flamingoes from
observation ! Such reasoning quite loses sight of the hunt-
ing attitude of mind. It presupposes on the part of
the flamingoes' natural enemies an almost unbelievable
stupidity and indolence ; so that the sight of a pink cloud in
one portion of the heavens would mean instant departure
for somewhere else. An absolutely innocent and unso-
phisticated bird or beast of prey on the search for fla-
mingoes might conceivably be fooled by one or two pink
clouds. But that could not continue for long. Sooner or
later he would discover that pink clouds may mean fla-
mingoes, and unless I much mistake the hunter psychology?
he would thenceforth cruise in the direction of likely look-
ing pink clouds. That is, unless he had a flamingo flock of
his own already. For again, your true flamingo eater —
whatever that is — would not be setting forth each day re-
gardless and at random. He would have his permanent
residence not far from a private flamingo-preserve of his
own. The resemblance of flamingoes to clouds would not
interest him in the least : he would probably never get that
far away from them.

It is useless to multiply examples. The gaudy plumage
of the wood duck much resembles at times certain re-
flections of light and branch, or certain aspects of the same
against the sky. When caught just at that moment the
wood duck is only slightly visible. A coloured drawing of
the episode is most interesting. But it seems to me carry-
ing it a bit far to claim that the wood duck's plumage imi-
tates sky and branch. The wood duck is not a common

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 353

bird at present, but my boyhood saw many of them; and
for once the bird was obHterated by his background, I
should say he was revealed at least fifty times. In other
words the imitation, while real, is poetic. The bluejay
against blue snow shadows is another case in point. The
resemblance and the blending are there, but one has only
to reflect that, even in winter, for once the jay is to be looked
for against snow, a hundred times he is silhouetted in trees
against the sky. That leaves out of account the fact that
bluejays live right on through the summer. Why, in the
name of common sense, if a bluejay or a wood duck were to
be " concealingly coloured," should the rare fortuitous
background be chosen for imitation rather than the daily
enviroimient? The battleground for opinion is here enor-
mous. I have no intention of entering it, and cite the wood
duck and the bluejay merely as examples.

Carried into the world of the larger animals the poetic
resemblances, while not less numerous, become more fanci-
ful. One of the most plausible examples is the mottling of
the leopard to imitate sun spots in the forest. I am far
from sa>'ing that this effect does not help in concealment.
But from what httle I have seen of the leopard (a) he is
more likely to be found in dense shade than in spotted
shadow; (b) he hunts at night when there is remarkably
little sunhght; (c) he has no "natural enemies" from which
he could wish to conceal himself.* If this is true of so
strikingly poetic a resemblance as "spots" for light and
shadow, how much more true is it of more fanciful re-
semblances. The larger animals move about so constantly,

* Prehistoric man had little use for a leopard outside a trap!

354 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

they occupy such a diversity of country, and appear in
succession against such a variety of backgrounds that it is
extremely unlikely that the colour pattern of any one of
them can be considered as imitating any one environment.
Zebra stripes do resemble reeds; they do not in the least
resemble open sky, distant hills, high grass, thorn scrub,
or tree trunks. I have seen thousands upon thousands of
zebra against the latter backgrounds. / have never seen one,
either at drinking holes or elsewhere, among reeds.

As a matter of personal belief I do not think that imi-
tative patterns exist in the larger animals. I grant you
may trace very interesting analogies between some of these
patterns and something in nature. You can do that in
thunder clouds. The nearest approach to anything of the
sort is in the case of dull ripe-grass-coloured beasts. They
are of a neutral tint because most of nature is in a neutral
tone. To that extent they are conceaHngly coloured.

That covers the five points of concealing coloration
theory as we studied it in the field. Let us now venture
for a moment into the realm of pure speculation. There
every man's right of denial or doubt is the equal of every
other man's. If you do not like my ideas it is your privi-
lege to reject them; and I assure you I shall accept their
rejection good-naturedly. Only it seems to me only fair
that you should not use that privilege unless you can sub-
stitute in their place something you consider better.

Nature loves at once economy and variety. She loves
economy; and therefore creates an organ, a creature, or a
process to fulfill some major function in the life of the
world, and immediately sets to work her ingenuity to adapt

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 355

it also to as many minor and incidental functions as possible.
She loves variety: and therefore brings into being a dozen
conifers instead of one "standardized" pine; hundred
species where half a dozen would do; a thousand wild-
flowers instead of a score that would adequately enough fit
the changes of condition.

This being so, we can conceive that one of the important
reasons why birds, beasts, insects, and flowers are striped,
variegated, spotted, mottled, and otherwise decorated is
that thus they respond to Nature's demand for variety.
If coloration were intended solely, or even primarily, for
purposes of concealment, it would be only sensible on
Nature's part to fit her creatures with the very few com-
binations that are best adapted to the purpose in different
circumstances. To a large extent I, personally, am willing
to agree with Emerson that beauty may be its own excuse
for being. To those who insist on a purely utilitarian
reason for everything, I would call attention to the zebra.
For the sake of argument only, let us assume that his stripes
are for the purpose of concealing him — or attracting atten-
tion of his own kind, it does not matter which. If that
were the only reason, a regular and uniform pattern of
stripes would fulfill every requisite. Then why, as is the
case, does every zebra differ from every other zebra in the
pattern of his hide? More: why, even, is the pattern on
the right side of any individual zebra different from the
pattern on his left side? The permutations and combina-
tions are as limitless as thumb points. When the strict
utilitarians have given good reasons for this one astonishing
fact, then we are ready to go on. In the meantime it seems

556 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

to me probable that, as Nature likes zebras all different,
she may like variety in other ways.

We may then name as the reasons for varied colouring,
(i) Nature's love for variety; (2) concealing coloration;
(3) facilitating recognition between members of the same
species; (4) sex attraction; (5) revealing for the purpose of
warning. These are by no means named in the order of
their relative importance.

At first glance there seems to be a contradiction between
some of these functions. For example, number three, four,
and five are advertising, reveaUng; while number two is
quite the reverse. This has been recognized by both sides
of the controversy. ''How can a thing be both concealing
and advertising?" ask the opponents triumphantly. And
the proponents, instead of accepting the indubitable fact
and trying to find it reasonable, make the mistake of bol-
stering their argument by super-refinements.

As a matter of fact there is only an apparent contradic-
tion. Those who claim that a zebra, or a topi, or our
common deer or any other of the larger animals are when in
motion quite the most conspicuous objects in the land-
scape, are right. My notion is that they are intended to be
conspicuous. I have often amused myself when in an
abundance of scattered game, inhabitating a broken bush-
covered country, by reveahng myself suddenly to some
little group of animals. Off they would go, helter-skelter,
as fast as they could run. Those near at hand would follow
their example; those farther away would catch the flash of
moving bodies — the revealing stripes of the zebras, the
flicker of the gazelles, the shifting advertising lines of a

THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY 357

number of species — would raise their heads, stare for a
moment, and join the stampede. None but the first httle
group had seen me, but all had caught the warning of danger
from the flash of stripe and colour, and all were heeding it.
On one occasion, six minutes by the watch after the first
beasts had departed, game was still plodding by across our
front. They were plodding very slowly and mechani-
cally and in a bored fashion, because by now the warning
had been much diluted, but they were doing their duty.
Now of all these beasts nine tenths were more or less un-
noticeable as long as they stood still. Their coloration, or
the light or the cover, or all three tended to obhterate most
of them sufficiently to cause them to be overlooked by a
cursory glance. But the moment any of them moved,
they became instantly and plainly visible. In other words,
the same pattern that fulfilled one function one moment in
certain circumstances fulfilled another function the next
moment in changed circumstances. To go back to our
zebra, because he is easy to discuss, no creature was harder
to make out in thin cover as long as he held still; no animal
was easier to see the instant he moved. As long as he held
still he was presumably in no danger of which he was aware,
and his pattern helped him to remain unobserved; the in-
stant he became aware of danger and ran, that instant by
his very conspicuousness he served as an easily visible warn-
ing to all other beasts that something was wrong.

It is useless to discuss the point played by coloration in
recognition and sex attraction. The uniform of a par-
ticular species is as definite as the uniform of a regiment,
and perhaps fulfills much the same function. Of course

358 THE REDISCOVERED COUNTRY

the influence of plumage and pelage on sex attraction is well
known. The point to remember is that all these functions
— of variety, sex attraction, concealment, warning, recog-
nition— are definite functions; that one in no sense ex-
cludes another; that any one may at any time act the lead-
ing part and at another be relegated to the subordinate
part. Such being the case, it is ill-advised to lay so much
stress on any one function that all others are warped and
bent to fit it. Whether Nature so patterned her creatures
that they might be distinguished one from the other, and
then incidentally arranged that those patterns should help
conceal or reveal at need: or whether she intended conceal-
ment as the major requisite, and handily fitted in the other
functions; or whether, quite simply, she was working out the
mysterious world-need for beauty and infinite variety, it is
each man 's privilege to decide for himself. But I think it
should be remembered that most often she works by ten-
dency rather than by hard fact.

THE COUNTRY LIFE PRESS
GARDEN CITY. N.Y.

UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY

Los Angeles
This book is DUE on the last date stamped below.

^'0V 1 1 1952

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